gay trip cuba

Queer Cuba: The Ultimate Guide For LGBT+ Travellers

Just picking a destination you’d like to visit and traveling there is the norm for most heterosexuals.

However, this is not a privilege that those in the LGBTQ community always have.

Discrimination is something faced daily, and it is no different when it comes to picking a holiday destination. Further research into a country and the values of that destination is usually required to ensure your safety. 

This is why I have put together the ultimate guide for those who would like to experience Queer Cuba.

Throughout this article, we will go through some candid advice on safely traveling around Cuba , which of Havannas’s gay bars and clubs are the best, as well as exploring Santa Clara’s liberal city and Mi Cayito which is Cuba’s Gay Beach. 

History Of Cuba’s Sexual Politics

While it’s true that in the latter years there has been something of a sexual rebellion happening in Cuba, it has not always been this way.

The early years of this battle, have been very difficult for those in the community. In fact members of the LGBTQ community have been treated horrendously for many years in Cuba, with homosexuality being described as ideological diversionism.

And at the beginning of this sexual revolution, many were forcibly moved to work camps. 

Homosexuality was still illegal in Cuba until 1979 and it wasn’t actually recognized as a sexual orientation until 1986.

But while liberalization has been slow and steady in its progress, progress has been made all the same. 

Jump forward just over a decade and the community begins to fight for free gender-reassignment surgery which was happening by 2008. In 2012 the country had its very first transgender politician. 

Fast-forward again to now, and Cuba is a much more welcoming and accepting country than it has ever been. There are yearly gay pride parades that can be seen throughout the country as well as a thriving gay nightlife. Members of the LGBTQ community now bravely wave their pride flags high – so if there’s a time for LQBTQ travelers to experience Cuba, it’s now. 

Some Honest Advice For Travelling To Cuba

Cuba was actually voted Safest Travel Destination for 2018 and is a predominantly non-violent and safe place to travel.

If you want a trip to a Caribbean country, it is also one of the most accepting of all sexualities.

You should be able to enjoy your trip overtly without feeling a need to be closed off about your relationship. 

That being said, PDAs (public displays of affection) between homosexuals are fairly uncommon as its society is still fairly conservative.

You should also consider that there seems to be more acceptance for queer males than there is for lesbians.

There is steadily increasing visibility for those who are transgender or ‘travestis’ as the Cubans will say.

Of course, as is, unfortunately, the case with every country, I cannot guarantee that you will not come into contact with some ignorance or prejudice throughout your trip.

While for the most part, locals will be very tolerant, there are always the few who are exceptions to the rule.

And while you may be accepted with fairly welcome arms in Havana if you travel to different provinces you may find they are not as liberal.

This means if you do travel outside of Havana you may need to carefully consider the social context of where you are in order to stay safe, regardless of how wrong this may be. 

Gar Bar’s And Clubs

Throughout the years, gay nightlife has really begun to flourish, so you’ll be happy to know that you won’t be stuck for party destinations! Thanks to the private enterprises being made legal on the island, there is now an abundance of vibrant party life to choose from.

If you’re looking to cram your itinerary full of gay bars, clubs, or cocktail bars, you’ve come to the right place. Here is a list of the venues that you won’t want to miss out on. 

Proyecto Divino

Every Saturday night you’ll find one of the most monumental parties in the whole of Havana.

Cafe Cantante, which you’ll find in the basement at Cuba’s National Theatre is a favorite for any member of the LGBTQ community. 

Here you’ll find party-goers dressed in drag, or dancing erotically, as well as performances from popular Cuban artists. Proyecto Divino is by far the most popular act that you’ll see while you’re there.

But make sure that you’ve caught up on all your sleep as these parties have a tendency to go all through the night and on into sunrise. 

Don’t worry though, there are cabs nearby so that you can safely make your way home no matter how hungover (or still inebriated) you may be. 

Information: Cafe Cantante, Calle Paseo y 39, Vedado

                      +53 878 4275

                      Saturday 11pm – 6am

This is a gay-friendly restaurant and club which is situated in a devastatingly beautiful mansion built back in 1880. This is a venue you simply cannot miss. It is also arguable the hottest club in Havanna at the moment. 

If you visit on a Monday, you will have the privilege of experiencing the ‘diverse parties’ that they host.

At these, you will enjoy performances from some of the most famous Drag Queens Cuba has to offer. 

But if you thought the party stopped there, you’d be wrong. It’s not just Mondays that you’ll want to visit this mansion, as almost every night there is some theme that you’ll love.

Often you’ll find that it’s mainly a mix of club classics, salsa, and reggaeton songs so you’re sure to have something you can dance along to all night long. 

Now, this club isn’t for the faint-hearted, as scenes inside this club get pretty raunchy.

If things heat up a little too much for your liking, you could always take a wander to the restaurant bar to guzzle down a delicious cocktail or take a walk outside to the beautifully charming porch where you can admire the starry Havana sky. 

There’s a magic to this place that is like no other – it’s a must to visit! 

Information: Calle B no.153 e/Calzada y Linea, Vedado

                       +53 7 836 3031

                       Monday – Sunday: 6pm – 3am

Cabaret Las Vegas

This club is state-owned but is often teaming with productions from iconically amazing Drag Queens known around Cuba such as Blanquita, Ashenal, and Imperio.

This club is actually often referred to as a gay landmark within Cuba, more specifically, in Havana. 

While this venue may seem small and nowhere near as grand as some of the previously mentioned venues, it will often have large queues of people desperate to get inside – so they’re certainly doing something right.  

If you’re hoping to find a rich variety of clientele, then this is the venue for you.

From locals to tourists, homosexuals to heterosexuals, you’ll find them all enjoying this party.

The professional drag shows and erotic dances are highly reviewed especially given the limited state funding and resources. 

Information: Calle Infanta No. 204, esquina 25, Vedado

                     +53 836 7939

                        Monday – Sunday: 4pm-8pm & 10pm-3am

Madrigal Bar

The madrigal bar is aesthetically one of my absolute favorite gay bars to choose from. It is situated on the second floor of an old colonial house that is found in the center of Vedado.

If you’re looking for the atmospheric artsy vibe, then this has your name written all over it. 

 It is owned by a Cuban filmmaker which explains the amazing set-like feel to it. It is a great place where both locals and tourists can come together to mingle.

Whether you want a tasty cocktail in the wonderfully decorated bar, or perhaps a lovely view from the terrace balcony, this gorgeous restaurant has it all. 

And if you’re lucky enough to drop in at the right moment, you’ll even have the soothing sounds of jazz to listen to as you sip away.

Information: 17 No. 302 e/ 2 y 4, Vedado

                      +53 7 831 2433

                      Tuesday – Sunday – 6pm-12am

                       Friday – Saturday – 6pm-4am 

Another favorite found in Vedado’s trendy neighborhood is the King Bar.

The whole premise of this bar is having a great time and breaking boundaries – so if these are things you like, it is a great place to plan to visit. 

This club has a great variety of choices for drinks too, so if you’d like to treat your tastebuds, this is the place to be.

Drinks are usually only around $3-5 CUC and if that isn’t cheap enough, there’s also a happy hour if you can get there between 5pm-8pm.

And if all of that still wasn’t enough, at this time you can also save up to 50% off any cocktails or beers.

I don’t know about you but that sounds like a deal I just wouldn’t be able to turn down. 

Don’t worry if you get peckish either, as this club offers some of the absolute tastiest dishes in El Vedado.

Whether you’re a fan of fish, meat, or are vegetarian there will be mouth-watering food suitable for you.

What better way is there to soak up all that alcohol after all? 

Information: Calle 23 e/ D y E, Vedado

                      +53 7 833 0556

                      Monday – Sunday: 7pm-3am

Fashion Bar La Habana

Last but not least, we have the Fashion Bar. Now, this is a ridiculously extra and outrageously camp extravaganza.

As soon as you walk in you’ll be faced with countless topless hunky waiters who greet you from the very door you enter from.

These beautiful boys will be around to attend to any need you have throughout the night and honesty it’s worth the visit just for the sexy staff alone! 

The show itself is an amazing blend of drag, comedy skits, erotic dancing, and amateur aerobics as well as some interpretive dance.

Through the interludes, you will also find that there is plenty of information given on how to practice safe sex, and which politically correct phrases to use to ensure a safe and protected environment for all party-goers.

Information: San Juan de Dios, esq. A Aguacate, Habana Vieja

                       +53 7 867 1676

                        Saturday: 9pm-4am

Mi Cayito’s Unofficial Gay Beach 

Hidden across the heavily Cuba coastline, you will find the  Mi Cayito beach.

While it may be slightly smaller than other beaches across the coast, it is no less stunning or serene.

This beach can be found close to the capital of Cuba, just between popular beaches such as Boca Ciega and Santa Maria del Mar. 

What is so special about this beach is that it is Cuba’s only openly gay beach. In fact, here sexual freedom is not only welcomed but it’s celebrated.

It is the perfect destination for those that do not want to hide who they are, in a destination that can be seen as heavily conservative. 

And although it may be smaller than some of the more famously known beaches, it still offers absolutely everything you’ll need to have the ultimate beach day, so don’t worry there is no compromising the enjoyment of your experience.

Sun loungers, umbrellas, local restaurants, and much more are all at your disposal.

You can even purchase yourself a cheeky cocktail from Las Palmitas. While you’re there you might as well also try the mouth-watering Cuban food that they offer too. 

From Parque Central, you’ll be looking at about an hour on the bus to travel here, but don’t worry, you’ll be pleased to know the buses are air-conditioned.

They’re also relatively cheap too, only costing around 5 CUC for a roundtrip ticket. But if the bus doesn’t seem like your style for an extra 10 CUC you could always opt to travel via taxi. 

Santa Clara: La Ciudad Liberal (The Liberal City)

Any member of the LGBTQ community that finds themselves in Cuba really needs to make sure they make time to visit Santa Clara.

It was once named after its historical ties to a late revolutionary figure Santa Clara, but it has since become the political core for LGBT activism and is also seen as Cuba’s main gay landmark. 

This city has morphed into a place of sensual freedom, where gender expectations are challenged without judgment.

And we actually have a Drag Show to thank. The ‘El Mejunje’ (‘The Mixture’) unveiled it’s very first drag show way back in 1989.

This caused ripples throughout the city that completely changed all preconceptions of sexuality and gender, not just throughout the city, but the whole of Cuba. If you are looking for a city full of relevant LGBT history, this place is brimming full of it. 

Santa Clara is a university city that is full of life and youth and the atmosphere here is honestly unmatched.

It is found right in the center of Cuba and so if you are traveling to destinations such as Cienfuegos, Trinidad, or Cayo Santa Maria, you need to leave yourself a couple of spare days to stop off and tour this gorgeous city. 

This is the cultural center and nightclub that has been established since the late 1980s. No trip to Santa Clara is complete without visiting here.

El Mujunje’s purpose is to collectively bring together people from any walk of life who are all celebrated and welcomed.

It’s really just a place for those who may feel marginalized to feel welcome, and accepted, and for them to have a really great time – what could be better? 

This is where you can find the ultimate tolerance and safety throughout the whole of Cuba .

It’s also a popular venue amongst locals too, there is always a buzzing crowd enjoying performances from drag to traditional Cuban music. 

El Mujunje was an institution for tolerance and acceptance, not just for homosexuality, but just to create a more open-minded community in general.

It was a safe space for anyone that needed it, whether that was queer people, HIV sufferers, drag queens, or rockers. It was more specifically geared towards anyone who was at the time marginalized in Cuba. 

Here is really an anything-goes policy, so it’s really a fantastic port of call for anyone who feels marginalized or often experiences prejudice to escape from the pressures of a more conservative society. 

Final Thoughts

While there are certainly still parts of Cuba that haven’t caught up with the more modern views of sexual orientation and gender identity, it has come on leaps and bounds from where the revolution began decades ago. 

If you are planning to visit Cuba, I would recommend staying in Havana as of all the provinces it is by far the most accepting, though there is still work to be done, as queer men seem to be accepted much more here than that of queer women.

While there are fewer prejudices in Havana, PDAs in the streets are still seen as slightly taboo. 

There are, however, now plenty of places throughout Havana where homosexuality is not only accepted but in fact celebrated.

If you are hoping to find a destination with plentiful gay nightlife then Cuba is sure not to disappoint.

Whether you’d prefer an all-nighter party style club or a more understated cocktail club with fancy decor and beautiful balconies, there is an option for all.

Most clubs all stay open till early hours too, with live music, and performance acts taking to the stage throughout the whole night.

However, if you’re not much for drinking and dancing until the early hours of the morning, there are still plenty of options for a great break away.

Mi Cayito’s openly gay beach is perfect for all beach bums that would like to lounge on a sunbed all day and catch a tan in the relentless Cuban sun.

And Santa Clara’s liberal city allows for the perfect day out for those who want to explore a city rich in history and diversity and acceptance. 

Whichever holiday you choose, hopefully, this guide will have helped you build the perfect itinerary so that you can have the time of your life from the second the plane takes off for Havana!

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LGBT Rights in Cuba: Everything You Should Know Before You Visit! 🇨🇺

Posted on Last updated: December 3, 2023

Categories LGBTQ+ Rights , Cuba

Cecilia Miller is a lesbian love warrior and educator fighting for queer justice and ensuring every shade of the rainbow shines bright & bold!

As Cuba takes significant strides toward advancing LGBT rights, this Caribbean nation emerges as a forerunner in promoting acceptance and inclusivity. Among the most progressive nations in Latin America, Cuba made history in 2022 when it held a national referendum, resulting in the legalization of same-sex marriage, paving the way for further advancements in the rights of both locals and tourists alike.

This exciting development showcases the nation’s dedication to fostering a more inclusive environment.

While it is clear that the situation for LGBT individuals in Cuba has made considerable progress, travelers and locals should remain cautious and vigilant, as changes in legislation and public sentiment can happen rapidly, and bad actors may still be present. To ensure one’s safety and enjoyment while exploring this vibrant country, it is crucial to stay up-to-date with the latest local news and information on LGBT rights.

For those seeking support and resources, numerous LGBT advocacy groups work tirelessly in Cuba to promote equality and provide assistance to the community. Connecting with these organizations can offer invaluable guidance, resources, and camaraderie for both locals and visitors navigating their experiences in Cuba.

As the landscape of LGBT rights in the country evolves, remember that staying informed and engaged is key for everyone to enjoy the rich culture and warm hospitality for which Cuba is known.

History Of LGBT Rights In Cuba

In pre-revolutionary Cuba, the LGBT community faced significant intolerance due to the emphasis on traditional heteronormativity. Legislation such as the Public Ostentation Law in the 1930s encouraged harassment towards those who didn’t hide their orientation, aligning Cuba’s treatment of the LGBT community with that of the rest of Latin America.

However, a shift in the Cuban government’s treatment of the LGBT community began in 1979 when homosexuality was decriminalized in the Cuban penal code. This marked the end of a dark period, and since then, progress has continued. In 2008, the government passed a law allowing state-funded gender reassignment surgery and hormone treatment for transgender individuals, and in 2013, anti-gay discrimination in the workplace was banned.

The situation for local LGBT individuals versus tourists varies. While locals have experienced historical persecution and are currently gaining rights, LGBT tourists might face different challenges. It is essential for tourists to be aware that the situation can change quickly, and information can become outdated. Always seek current advice before traveling, and remember, bad actors exist in every country, so remain vigilant.

To protect oneself, it’s crucial to err on the side of caution and connect with relevant LGBT advocacy groups, such as the Cuban National Center for Sex Education (CENESEX) . Staying informed and aware of your rights while visiting the country is an essential step to ensuring a safe and enjoyable experience.

Remember, situations may change rapidly, so make sure to stay updated and consult current resources to navigate the exciting journey of LGBT rights in Cuba.

The LGBT Legal Situation In Cuba

Cuba has made significant strides in recent years regarding LGBT rights. In 2022, the country voted to legalize same-sex marriage through a national referendum, making it one of the most progressive Latin American countries in terms of family law. This updated Family Code also includes provisions for same-sex adoption, non-commercial surrogacy, and protections against discrimination based on sexual orientation and gender identity.

For both locals and tourists, these legal changes signify a shift in societal attitudes. However, it is essential to remain cautious and vigilant, as bad actors can exist in any country. Situations may evolve rapidly, and information may quickly become outdated. Before traveling, always seek current, reliable advice about the local LGBT community and any potential risks.

If visiting Cuba, it’s critical to be aware of steps that could help protect you as a traveler. Stay informed about any local or regional LGBT events, political changes, or social trends that may affect your safety. Look for guidance from reputable sources like government travel advisories, international organizations, and trusted local contacts.

Cuba has several active LGBT advocacy groups, such as the National Center for Sex Education (CENESEX) and Proyecto Arcoiris , that play crucial roles in promoting acceptance, raising awareness, and providing support for the community. Keeping yourself informed about their activities and recommendations can help you stay knowledgeable and well-prepared for any potential changes in the legal landscape or political environment.

In summary, as an excited globetrotter ready to explore Cuba, it’s crucial to stay informed, cautious, and adaptable. Embrace the advances made in LGBT rights while maintaining vigilance to ensure a safe and enjoyable visit.

The LGBT Social Situation In Cuba

The social landscape has undergone various changes in Cuba, particularly with respect to the rights of the LGBT community. Following the 2022 Cuban Family Code referendum, the country witnessed legal recognition of marriage and unions between people of the same sex, same-sex adoption, and non-commercial surrogacy, becoming one of the most progressive Family Codes in Latin America.

This remarkable progress has enabled a more inclusive atmosphere not only for locals but also for tourists visiting the beautiful island nation.

However, while the situation has improved, it’s essential to recognize that some challenges still remain, and it’s crucial to remain vigilant. The Cuban government has faced criticism for repressing and punishing dissent and public criticism. To protect oneself from any unforeseen issues, it helps to be well-informed about current local laws and situations and always seek up-to-date advice before traveling.

Because situations can change rapidly, it’s essential to stay connected with local LGBT advocacy groups to access the latest information and gather support if needed. These groups also provide useful resources for travelers to ensure their safety and well-being in the country.

Undoubtedly, Cuba has come a long way in terms of LGBT rights, reflecting its commitment to fostering a more open and welcoming environment for all. Be sure to bask in the vibrant Cuban culture while also keeping your eyes and ears open to the ever-evolving social situation. So travel with excitement and enthusiasm, but always trust your instincts and remain cautious. Happy exploring!

Trans Rights In Cuba

Cuba has made significant progress in terms of LGBT rights and has recently legalized same-sex marriage, which reflects the changing attitudes towards the LGBT community. While this is a major milestone, trans rights still require attention and progress.

Trans individuals in Cuba have experienced the benefits of evolving attitudes and governmental efforts to support the LGBT community. In fact, since 2008, the Cuban government has provided free gender-affirmation surgeries to eligible individuals. This progress can be partially attributed to Mariela Castro- the daughter of President Raúl Castro and a strong advocate for LGBT rights.

However, it is essential to note that there might be differences in how the local population and tourists experience LGBT rights in Cuba. Tourists visiting the island may encounter fewer issues as they mostly stay within their designated tourist areas. On the other hand, local trans individuals might still face challenges in their day-to-day lives, such as employment and housing discrimination.

For travelers visiting Cuba, it is vital to remain vigilant and cautious, as situations can change rapidly, and information might become outdated. Always seek up-to-date advice before traveling to the country. Likewise, keep in mind that bad actors exist everywhere, so remain aware of your surroundings and take necessary precautions.

To help protect the rights of trans individuals in Cuba, consider connecting with and supporting local LGBT advocacy groups, which play a significant role in raising awareness and pushing for policy changes. A well-known organization in Cuba is the National Center for Sexual Education (CENESEX), which promotes LGBT rights and provides educational resources.

In conclusion, while there have been exciting advancements in LGBT rights, trans rights in Cuba still have room for improvement. Stay informed and cautious while traveling, and support local LGBT advocacy groups to help foster a more inclusive environment for everyone in the country.

The Future For The Queer Community In Cuba

LGBT rights in Cuba have come a long way since the days of oppression and discrimination. With the legalization of same-sex marriage and adoption in 2022, the country has taken significant steps towards inclusivity and progress. This newfound acceptance has sparked excitement among both local LGBT individuals and tourists alike.

However, it is important to remain cautious and vigilant when traveling to Cuba, as situations can change rapidly, and information can become outdated. Be sure to seek current advice on LGBT rights and safety before embarking on your journey.

For local people, the future of LGBT rights in Cuba is decidedly promising. With growing visibility and the backing of key legislation, the country is moving towards becoming an inclusive and supportive environment for LGBT individuals. Communities are gradually becoming more accepting, and Cuba has even been heralded as one of the most progressive nations in Latin America in terms of its Family Code.

Tourists visiting Cuba can enjoy this increasingly open and accepting environment. However, it is crucial to respect local customs and remain aware of potential risks from bad actors. While Cuba has made significant strides in terms of LGBT rights, it is important to remember that prejudices can still exist and ensuring your safety should always be a top priority.

In order to stay informed and protected, it’s recommended to connect with relevant LGBT advocacy groups in the country. These organizations will be able to provide up-to-date information and support should any issues arise during your time in Cuba.

In conclusion, when navigating the future of LGBT rights in Cuba, it is essential to remain excited about the positive changes that have been made while also staying vigilant and informed about current conditions.

Protect Yourself While Travelling In Gay Cuba

As a traveler to Cuba, it’s essential to understand and respect the local LGBT community and their rights. Being aware of these rights can help you protect yourself and ensure a positive, inclusive experience for all.

Legal recognition of same-sex marriage, adoption, and non-commercial surrogacy has made Cuba one of the most progressive countries in Latin America in terms of LGBT rights. However, it’s crucial to stay vigilant, remain cautious, and seek current advice before traveling, as situations can change quickly, and there may be bad actors in every country.

While LGBT rights have significantly improved in recent years, there may still be instances where local attitudes differ from those of tourists. To protect yourself, it’s essential to be sensitive to the cultural context and avoid drawing unnecessary attention to your sexuality or gender identity. Always err on the side of caution and respect the privacy of the local LGBT community.

LGBT rights in Cuba may vary between urban and rural areas, and public displays of affection could be met with different reactions depending on where you are. In general, it’s a good idea to observe the behavior of locals and follow their lead when it comes to expressing affection or discussing LGBT issues. Keep in mind that awareness and acceptance of LGBT rights can vary, even within the same city.

When navigating Cuba as an LGBT traveler, it’s essential to stay informed about the latest developments in the country and communicate with individuals from the local community. Seeking advice from relevant LGBT advocacy groups can help you stay updated on current information and resources in the country. These groups can be a valuable source of support and provide you with safety guidelines, cultural nuances, and tips for navigating potential challenges during your trip.

In conclusion, as exciting as it may be to explore the vibrant culture and history of Cuba as an LGBT traveler, it’s vital to stay informed, be cautious, and respect local laws and customs. By doing so, you can ensure a safe, enjoyable, and inclusive experience for yourself and the local LGBT community.

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Gay Cuba Travel Guide

This large and beautiful Caribbean island is well-known for its culture, white sand beaches, cigars, and rum. Its lively capital Havana, is a must-see for anyone who appreciates outdated yet marvelously preserved architecture.

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There’s a Gay Beach in Havana! Discovering LGBT Life in Cuba

“Which direction should we walk?”

My friend and I had arrived at Mi Cayito beach in Cuba, a stretch of shoreline 15 miles east of Havana, in search of gay Cuba travel experiences. It looked as though the beach extended quite a distance in both directions, so we were unsure where to find the gay section of beach that supposedly existed. The Internet hadn’t been much help in that regard.

Just then, a skinny guy with a tight tshirt and a sassy demeanor sauntered past with a female friend. We were evidently on the right track. “Follow that queen!”

RELATED READING: The American’s Complete Guide to Visiting Havana, Cuba

Our hope that the dude would lead us to the gay beach were realized when, after five minutes of walking west, we spotted the rainbow flag.

Visiting Mi Cayito, The Gay Cuba Beach

On this weekday afternoon, the gay beach had maybe 100 people at most, but it was still awesome to see signs of gay life in Cuba, where acceptance of gays is growing but still not nearly at the same level as in most western nations.

As of this writing, Cuba still has no official gay bars (just the occasional gay night at a club). So the gay beach was our best shot at finding the LGBT crowd in Havana . And we sure found it.

Couples held hands and soaked in the rays near the faded rainbow flag. Lesbian couples, often absent from male-dominated American gay beaches, were present in fairly large numbers.

A big group of friends chatted and played in the water. A female couple snuggled; a male couple made out for 15 minutes in the ocean.

The crowd ran the gamut from teenagers to 40-somethings, with attire ranging from speedos to board shorts.

The beach itself was beautiful, offering warm waters and a mild gradient that allowed visitors to walk close to 100 feet offshore and still touch the bottom.

It felt pretty much the same as any North American gay beach, and that was cool. And of course, the weather was perfect and the water was beautiful.

LGBT Cuba: Where to Find the Gays in Havana

When it comes to finding gay folks in Cuba, there are no easy tricks. While Cuba does have wifi and everyone has cell phones, few people use apps like Grindr because internet access is spotty and expensive.

I did login to Grindr twice. There were only two people within 100 miles, and both were visitors on a cruise ship. The closest Cuban was 141 miles away.

There aren’t even that many articles online about gay life in Cuba. As of 2024, there are few official gay bars in Havana, LGBT nightclubs, or Cuba gay resorts. You can find occasional gay life and drag shows, though.

Visit Cuba has a list of queer-friendly spots in Cuba, such as Cabaret Las Vegas , which has drag shows and has always been gay-friendly, even if it’s not a traditional gay bar.

I read in the New York Times that a place called Myxto has drag shows, but I didn’t figure out where this place was until my final few hours in town, when I spotted it on an early-morning walk. It’s too bad I missed out on a drag show in Cuba!

There used to be a Cuban gay bar called Humboldt 52 , but that place appears to have been closed for many years now.

Aside from Cabaret Las Vegas, if you’re looking for the LGBT+ population in Cuba, you’ll mostly have to use common sense and gaydar. Find the fashionable clothes, trendy haircuts, and dance clubs, and you’re on the right track.

These are stereotypes, of course, but they did hold true for many young Cuban gays, who were clearly open and weren’t trying to hide their orientations from anybody.

This was true even in smaller towns, where it was easy to spot the occasional out and proud guys.

There is one neighborhood in Havana that is fairly popular with the rainbow crowd. That would be Vedado, the modern and trendy ‘hood next to Centro Habana. Avenida 23 runs through the heart of the area and leads to the Malecon.

When it comes to nightlife in Havana, Vedado is one of the best spots. It has a jazz club that caters to tourists, and some dance clubs where the local college-age crowd seemed to hang out.

This section of town is a popular gay hangout. We saw a decent number of obviously gay guys around here, mostly under 25. Finding older Cuban gays in their 30s and 40s was a little bit tougher. The beach was the only place I saw them in significant numbers.

RELATED READING: Why Puerto Vallarta is Such a Great LGBT Destination

With no Grindr or Tinder activity, LGBT Cubans find each other the old-fashioned way – eye contact. If you tend to stare down attractive folks a little too long, you may find yourself being followed around by guys who interpret that as interest on your part. This happened to me on a couple of occasions and I felt bad because I hadn’t meant to send any unintentional signals to anyone.

If you visit more upscale and secluded destinations in Cuba such as Varadero, which is known for its all-inclusive resorts, you may likely encounter other gay travelers and tourists, moreso than locals. It all depends what kind of gay Cuba travel experience you want – locals or tourists?

Random fact I feel compelled to share because it seemed unusual: I’d estimate that more than half of men in Havana under age 30 shave their legs totally like women. This did not seem to be just a ‘gay men’ thing – lots of dudes holding their girlfriends’ hands were rocking calf stubble. This was especially true in Vedado.

I never did figure out why. Maybe it’s a fad, or perhaps it’s a cooling mechanism to deal with the constant humidity and sweating. In any event, be prepared for the smooth look.

How to Find Mi Cayito Gay Cuba Beach in Havana

La playa! Here’s a Google Map showing the location of Mi Cayito. It’s among Playas del Este, and not far from hotels like MarAzul, Club Bravo Arenal, and Hotel Atlantico.

There are public buses that run in that direction, but the Cuban bus system is notoriously unreliable. You don’t want to stand around waiting for a few hours to catch a bus.

The best bet is to hire a taxi. We found a driver (a friend of a friend) who dropped us off at the beach and picked us up there a few hours later. I believe the charge was roughly $30 US for the round-trip, which we split.

As noted earlier, the entire beach of Mi Cayito is not gay. The gay section is to the left when you arrive and you’re looking out at the ocean. Keep walking until the find the folks who are unmistakably LGBT.

Or, just hang out around the main entrance of the beach, play volleyball, and socialize with the families. It’s up to you!

LGBT rights in Cuba and additional gay Cuba travel resources

Cuba is making great strides when it comes to LGBT acceptance, but there’s still a ways to go. I wouldn’t recommend being overly affectionate in public in most parts of the country just yet. In some parts of Havana, open gay life is more acceptable.

I did see PDA at the gay beach and to a lesser degree on the Malecon. Obviously, gay marriage is not legal in Cuba, though Reuters reported that the country’s recent draft constitution could open the door for eventual same-sex matrimony.

In the past few years, a number of online articles seemed to give the impression that Cuba is some sort of utopia for gay men, but most of these were exaggerated.

Yes, Cuba is gay friendly to a greater degree than many of its Caribbean neighbors, but a lot of those countries (Jamaica, Trinidad) have notoriously homophobic cultures, so being more progressive than them isn’t necessarily a huge statement.

Havana does have a pride parade in May to coincide with the International Day Against Homophobia. Raul Castro’s daughter (and Fidel Castro’s niece) Mariela has been an outspoken advocate for LGBT rights. She works at the National Centre for Sex Education.

So it is entirely possible to meet and hang out with gay folks on the island if that’s something you are interested in.

As more local politicians warm to gay rights, tour companies expand their gay-themed tours in Havana , and more American gay tourists come to visit, I would expect LGBT life in Cuba to grow and become more public in the coming years.

Update: Cuba Legalizes Gay Marriage!

In September 2022, Cuba legalized gay marriage nationwide via referendum. Same sex marriage was approved by a massive margin, more than two to one.

That’s a big change in acceptance even from when I first visited Havana. Gay Cuba is now gayer than ever before! Cuban president Miguel Diaz-Canel tweeted, “Justice has been done.”

Interestingly, though, NPR notes that the 67% approval rating was far below the 90% or more that most government-backed referendums receive. So many more people than usual felt compelled to reject the ballot question.

Still, these new LGBT protections are great for locals and for gay tourists who want to spend their money in places that are friendly and receptive.

Have you had any gay Cuba travel experiences? Leave a comment and let us know!

Here are a few more resources to check out regarding the gay Cuba experience in Havana.

Washington Blade article about Mi Cayito and LGBT life in Cuba

New York Times: Havana Gay Life

ADDITIONAL CUBA TRAVEL TIPS

Cave Bars, Scenic Valleys, and Colorful Houses: 7 Reasons to Visit Viñales, Cuba

Is Cuba dangerous? Crime and Scam Concerns in Havana

Discovering the Remote Beaches of Cayo Jutias in Cuba

Photo Essay: Images From Cuba

About The Author

Scott Shetler

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Havana is the capital city of Cuba and there's no other city on earth quite like it. Keep an eye peeled for those old Cadillacs.

Time for a drink!

Here's our list of Havana's gay bars

About Havana

Havana's Gay Scene

LGBTQ Beaches

LGBTQ Rights

As the spirited capital and largest city, Havana is the epicenter of gay nightlife and culture in Cuba. The Vedado neighborhood is the main gathering point, with a high concentration of gay-friendly bars, clubs, and cabarets. Hotspots include Cabaret Las Vegas, a drag theater show, and popular bars like Infinito and Karachi. The Malecón waterfront promenade and La Rampa area near the Hotel Nacional are other social hubs.

Smaller cities like Santa Clara, Cienfuegos, and Santiago de Cuba have LGBTQ-friendly venues as well. The seaside town of Guanabo, east of Havana, hosts popular drag shows. But Havana offers the widest selection and most vibrant scene.

Featured Venues

Café Fortuna Joe

Cabaret Las Vegas

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A holiday guide to Cuba for the LGBTQ community including gay friendly hotels, bars & beaches.

A little history

Before the Revolution, Cuba was a traditional, conservative island controlled by large landowners, business groups and the church. Like most other Latin countries, machismo was very much the prevailing culture and, as such, outside of a handful of in-the-know venues in Havana, the LGBTQ community in Cuba was largely underground.

Any hopes that the Revolution, which reached its denouement at the end of 1958, would usher in a new period of acceptance or even tolerance was quickly dashed.

Members of the Cuban LGBTQ community were viewed as being ideologically unsound and subject to appalling treatment and numerous restrictions.

It wasn’t until 1979 that homosexuality was decriminalized and not until 1988 that it became legal. Even so, and despite numerous discussions within the pollical elite (the de facto head of the Cuban LGBTQ community, Mariela Castro, is the late Fidel Castro’s niece), same sex marriage is still not permitted.

Attitudes to the LGBTQ community

While Cuba hasn’t morphed into a gay Shangri La, and homophobia still exists (where doesn’t it?), attitudes to the LGBTQ community have certainly mellowed to the extent that annual Gay Pride marches take place across the island and gay friendly venues no longer need to hide behind closed doors.

Open displays of affection, such as hand holding, will still attract a degree of bemused attention and, is too often the case around the world, same sex female couples will attract more attention (not to mention incredulity) than their male counterparts.

LGBTQ travel to Cuba

Perhaps nothing shows how far Cuba has come in recent years (and perhaps points to the need to bring in as much tourism revenue as ppossible) than the advent of openly gay focused hotels, namely the Telegrafo Axel hotel in Havana (pictured below) and the Muthu Rainbow on the island of Cayo Guillermo.

Even away from these hotels, same sex couples wanting to share a bed generally won’t experience any overt pushback at hotels although some casa particular (B&B) owners, especially those in more out-of-the-way destinations, might be slightly more reticent.

As Beyond The Ordinary work closely with a select number of casa particulares, members of the LGBTQ community need not worry about staying at any of our featured casas.

As with the aforementioned gay friendly hotels, there are a number of casa particulares that are owned and / or managed by members of the LGBTQ community such as Casa Vitrales in Havana & Villa Paradiso in Baracoa (pictured below) or simply especially welcoming such as Casa Lucilo y Nirma in Vinales.

One further, almost universal truth, is that tourists are generally afforded more understanding than locals.

Gay nightlife

While there aren’t really any out-and-out (excuse the pun) gay venues in Cuba, there are a number of bars, clubs and restaurants that are popular with the LGBTQ community.

As with anywhere you may visit, it’s not easy making recommendations as venues open and close and fall in and out of fashion at the drop of a boa.

However, amongst the more established venues in Havana are Cabaret Las Vegas (close to the Hotel Nacional), Fashion Bar Havana (Calle San Juan de Dios in Old Havana), Bar Don Eduardo Alegre (Plaza Vieja in Old Havana), Café Bar Madrigal (Vedado – pictured below), Café Fortuna Joe (Miramar) & XY Bar (set just back from the Malecon).

Mi Cayito Beach

Approximately 30 minutes’ drive east of Havana are what are known as the Playas del Este (Eastern Beaches), a series of white sandy beaches that, for the most part, remain the preserve of day visitors from the city.

One of these beaches, Mi Cayito, has gradually become the de facto beach destination for both the local LGBTQ community and overseas visitors. Not surprisingly, it is at its busiest with locals at the weekend.

An hourly bus runs from the city centre although a taxi will cost the equivalent of around £10.

Santa Clara

While the city of Santa Clara , 3 hours’ drive east of Havana, is most commonly promoted for its historical links to the Cuban Revolution, and as being the final resting place of Che Guevara, it is also known locally as the Ciudad Liberal (Liberal City).

With its large university population, the heart of the LGBTQ / Hip / Cultured scene in Santa Clara is the famous El Mejunje, a cultural centre that put on the island’s first drag show back in the late 1980s and which has managed to remain both relevant and cutting edge in the 30 plus years since.

Many visitors to Cuba simply pass through Santa Clara but, due to its central location, it’s easy enough to include a night in the city.

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To discuss your individual plans, either call us on 01580 764796 during office hours or, if you prefer, fire off an email to [email protected]

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Travel Guide

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Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers in Cuba

Homosexuality is not illegal in Cuba, but in general, Cuba has a poor record on gay and lesbian rights, and while the situation has improved somewhat, there are still high levels of homophobia and broad societal rejection of gays and lesbians. For decades following the Revolution, gays and lesbians were closeted and persecuted. (Read Reinaldo Arenas' horrifying account in Before Night Falls. ) The harsh measures they faced included forced labor and prison. The blockbuster movie Fresa y Chocolate (Strawberry and Chocolate) certainly brought the issue to the forefront, yet little has changed in the prevailing views of this macho society. However, Fidel Castro has now taken responsibility for the way homosexuals were treated in the 1960s and 1970s. There is only one openly accepted gay and lesbian establishment in Cuba (in Santa Clara), and few of the established gay and lesbian tour operators run trips to the island. However, Out Adventures (www.out-adventures.com), based in Canada and working with Intrepid travel, offers a "Comfort Cuba" tour.

Santa Clara is perhaps the most openly gay city in Cuba and there is an annual gay and transvestite carnival in the middle of May. In Havana, a transvestite entertains weekly at Cafe TV. Raúl Castro's daughter, Mariela Castro, heads the National Center for Sex Education and champions homosexual, bisexual, and transgender rights. In May 2008, the state-television network transmitted Brokeback Mountain on TV, the first time a gay film had been broadcast in Cuba. Cuba also held an anti-homophobia day for the fourth time in May 2010, promoted by Mariela Castro. The legalization of same-sex marriage has also been talked about, but so far no progress has been made. In addition, sex change operations were legalized in 2008, and in 2010, Cuba's first transsexual appeared in a documentary on the island publicly detailing her transition for the first time.

While travelers are generally not hassled in Cuba and given some leeway in terms of social mores, same-sex signs of physical affection are rare and frowned upon across the country. Gay and lesbian couples and singles should take the prevailing social climate into account when traveling in Cuba.

The documentary film, Gay Cuba, by Sonja de Vries (Frameline Films; www.frameline.org), is an honest look at the treatment of gays and lesbians in modern Cuba.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) (tel. 954/630-1637; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses.

Note : This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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• Duration 7 Days
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Take the pulse of Cuba through its progressive LGBTQI Scene.

Tour Booking Form – Queer Cuba

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Havana’s progressive Queer culture

on the beach at Mi Cayito, Havana’s favourite Queer beach

cocktail making and Havana’s vibrant nightlife

Explore stunning Viñales Valley and Las Terrazas Biosphere Reserve

What's included?

Accommodation.

6 nights in casas particulares

All Breakfasts, 4 Lunches, 5 Dinners

English-Speaking Cuban tour guide, driver, Cubania office 24 hour contact

Essential Information

Food & drink, what is included.

• Transfer from airport upon arrival and departure
• Transfer of luggage throughout but not hotel porterage
• Accommodation in casas particulares on B&B basis
• Meals:   all breakfasts, 4 lunches and 5 dinners.   Lunches will be in restaurants or picnics depending on the day
• Entrances to Museo Nacional de las Bellas Artes, Las Terrazas Biosphere Reserve.   Zip-lining, Classic Car Tour and Las Vegas Drag Show.
• Staff:   Local English-speaking Cuban active guide throughout, specialist local guides for some activities, driver. 
• Transport: all transfers in private air-conditioned vehicle.

What is not included?

• Flights to and from Cuba
• Travel / medical Insurance (compulsory to provide proof of cover for entry into Cuba)
• Personal expenses (drinks, laundry, phone calls etc)
• Vaccinations
• Visas (Tourist Cards)
• Tips for guide, driver and local staff.   We recommend that each participant contributes a minimum of CUC 25 – CUC 30 to be shared between the local staff.

Is this tour right for me?

• English speaking group with 2 – 18 people of mixed nationalities. Minimum age 18 years.
• Open minded and curious to learn about Cuba’s gay community.
• Busy days with a variety of activities, travel and exposure to contemporary Cuban and LGBT culture.
• Light walking boots or trainers with good tread for walking in the Viñales valley
• Wear comfortable clothes and trainers.
• Safety harness and helmets are included.

Essential packing list

• Swimming things and beach towel
• Trainers for ziplining
• Small day pack
• High factor sun cream (50+), sunglasses and sun hat
• Hand sanitizer
• Insect repellent – tropical strength
• Long sleeved shirts and light trousers for the evenings
• A sense of humour and patience are useful in Cuba!

Optional items

Throughout the tour we stay in private accommodation (Casas particulares) in Havana and Viñales.

It’s fair to say that the standard of Cuban accommodation is not always comparable to that which you would expect in other countries owing to years of isolation, under-investment in the country’s infrastructure and effect of the US trade Embargo. Anyone travelling to the island should be prepared to rough it a bit at times! Décor tends to be a little dated, there might be the occasional power cut, and you may find that your water pressure isn’t all it could be. Fortunately, it’s warm enough most days that the lack of hot water is not a major problem!

However, most people love the opportunity this gives to stay in a relatively normal Cuban home and see how Cubans live. These homes are simple compared to ours, but the welcome is warm and rooms clean. All the casas also have air conditioning an en suite bathrooms. You’ll be spoilt at breakfast in the mornings.

Cuba doesn’t have a great reputation for varied international cuisine but in recent years lots of privately run restaurants (“paladars”) have opened (particularly in Havana) offering a wider choice and better quality food than the government run establishments. We will be eating in some of our favourite paladars in Havana and Viñales during this trip, finishing the week in the renowned ‘La Guarida’ paladar.

For those with special dietary requirements, be prepared for a very limited menu while you are in Cuba. There are very few vegetarians and vegans in Cuba so there are sometimes misperceptions as to what you can eat. Vegetarians often bring snacks and spreads to liven up their meals.

Cuba is the land of the Mojito, Daiquiri and Cuba Libre. You’ll find that plenty of rum-based drinks all over the country with prices ranging from 2-6 CUC for most cocktails. But beware, they don’t use measuring glasses, so they might be stronger than the ones you have tried at home!

All our guides at Cubania are Cuban nationals who are registered with and trained by Cuba’s Ministry of Tourism. They come from all kinds of different personal and professional backgrounds. They’ve been teachers, I.T. professionals, bakers, vets, army officers and even underwear salesmen! What they have in common is that they are all highly educated graduates who are passionate about guiding and proud of their beautiful country. They all speak excellent English and receive annual training in first aid.

ARRIVAL IN HAVANA

Welcome to Havana! You will be met at the airport and taken to your casa particular. This evening we’ll have a group dinner and get…

This morning we’ll have a walking tour of Old Havana. Cuba’s cosmopolitan capital was once one of the world’s most prosperous ports and the…

VIÑALES VIA LAS TERRAZAS

Today transfer to Viñales, stopping to visit Las Terrazas Community, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve tucked away in the Sierra del Rosario mountains. Created after…

Today we will explore Viñales – UNESCO World Heritage site since 1999 – status awarded for it’s outstanding landscape and traditional farming methods used…

Those who like early starts can take an optional sunrise walk to Los Acuaticos, a traditional community high up over the valley. We start…

Today we head to Mi Cayito, a favourite spot on Havana’s Playas del Este. At the weekend Habaneros flock to the beach to wind-down…

DEPARTURE DAY

Enjoy this morning at leisure to spend as you please. Then transfer to the airport for your onward flight. And so it’s Adios, or, as…

Day 1 : ARRIVAL IN HAVANA

Day 2 : HAVANA

Day 3 : VIÑALES VIA LAS TERRAZAS

Day 4 : VIÑALES

Day 5 : HAVANA

Day 6 : HAVANA

Day 7 : DEPARTURE DAY

Day 1: arrival in havana.

Welcome to Havana! You will be met at the airport and taken to your casa particular. This evening we’ll have a group dinner and get to know each other. If we’re up for it, we can take in some local nightlife afterwards.

Day 2: HAVANA

This morning we’ll have a walking tour of Old Havana. Cuba’s cosmopolitan capital was once one of the world’s most prosperous ports and the third most populous city in the Americas. As La Llave del Mundo Nuevo (Key to the New World), Havana saw conquistador riches from Mexico, Peru, and Colombia pass through her sheltered harbour, en route to Spain. The city shows evidence of long neglect but her intrinsic elegance and beauty shines through an amalgam of Spanish, African, colonial, communist, and capitalist influences. After our tour we’ll stop for lunch at a cool new café, before meeting local lesbian graphic designers, Clandestina. This afternoon we’ll visit the Museo de las Bellas Artes to see Cuba’s finest contemporary art, guided by a young Cuban art curator. Later on, we head to one of Havana’s newest restaurants where we’ll learn to make Cuban cocktails before enjoying a delicious tapas-style meal. Afterwards we might like to catch some live music and visit a few LGBT-friendly bars in Havana’s happening Vedado district.

Day 3: VIÑALES VIA LAS TERRAZAS

Today transfer to Viñales, stopping to visit Las Terrazas Community, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve tucked away in the Sierra del Rosario mountains. Created after the Revolution to replant the area which had suffered badly from deforestation, it’s now a self-sustaining community surrounded by forest and is once more a haven for migrating birds from the north. We visit the lakeside community, and some will want to take a ride on the zip-lining course which soars over the rooftops, through the forest and over the lake.

We have a typical Cuban country lunch in La Casa del Campesino and then continue our journey to Viñales. The valley is famous for its mogotes, or karsts – sheer mountains that seem to pop out of the ground creating a spectacular landscape, which also happens to be where the best tobacco in the world is lovingly grown. Enjoy the evening at leisure, your guide will be happy to suggest places to eat and try out some provincial nightlife.

Day 4: VIÑALES

Today we will explore Viñales – UNESCO World Heritage site since 1999 – status awarded for it’s outstanding landscape and traditional farming methods used for tobacco and other crops.

We’ll start with a walk to a local tobacco farm, where we’ll learn about tobacco cultivation and country life. We then clamber up the mountain and take a natural tunnel through the mogote to the valley on the other side. The views are spectacular, overlooking tobacco plantations and fields growing tropical fruits and vegetables. We finish our walk at a small restaurant run by a Cuban-Spanish chef who offers simple but mouth-watering dishes.

After lunch we head back towards town stopping at a zip-line for an adrenaline kick and awesome views over Viñales.

This evening we’ll enjoy an atmospheric sunset cocktail and dinner at Wilfredo’s Farm, an award-winning organic farm which has been serving home grown country food to its guests for the past few years. The restaurant is housed in a typical simple Cuban home with wonderful views over the valley.

Day 5: HAVANA

Those who like early starts can take an optional sunrise walk to Los Acuaticos, a traditional community high up over the valley. We start walking in the dark to reach Los Acuaticos by sunrise. After breakfast we will say goodbye to gorgeous Viñales and head back to Havana.

Back in Havana we’ll have time to freshen up and grab some lunch before visiting Cenesex, Cuba’s national centre for Sex Education, the home of LGBT rights in Cuba. Set up by Mariela Castro, Raul’s daughter and Fidel’s niece, Cenesex has supported the LGBT community and helped create an atmosphere of tolerance towards difference. Cenesex has helped Cuba become one of the most liberal nations in Latin America on Gender issues.

In the evening we’ll eat in a restaurant where we’ll be able to hang out in the kitchen and learn about traditional Cuban cuisine.

Later on, it’s time to hit Havana’s iconic drag show at Las Vegas in Centro Habana.

Day 6: HAVANA

Today we head to Mi Cayito, a favourite spot on Havana’s Playas del Este. At the weekend Habaneros flock to the beach to wind-down and have fun, and nowhere does fun quite like Mi Cayito! Traditionally this is where the gay community in Havana congregates to relax by the crystal-clear waters and the white sand beach. We’ll take a picnic and some rum and enjoy beach time a lo cubano.

In the afternoon, we return to Havana to get ready for our last evening together. We’ll be picked up by our rides and taken for a tour of the city in classic American cars.

We’ll wind up on a rooftop bar where we can sip delicious cocktails as we watch the sun set over the city. Our last dinner together will be in La Guarida, a fabulous restaurant and the set of Cuba’s most famous Queer film, Fresa y Chocolate. Later on, we can party long into the night at any of Havana’s open-minded joints.

Day 7: DEPARTURE DAY

Enjoy this morning at leisure to spend as you please. Then transfer to the airport for your onward flight. And so it’s Adios , or, as we prefer to think of it hasta luego , see you later! Have a safe onward journey and we very much hope to see you in Cuba again soon.

What to bring

1. sun protection.

high strength sunscreen, sunglasses, sun hat

2. Swimming things

and beach towel

3. Light Clothing

Light cotton and linen clothing suitable for tropical climates

4. Personal toiletries

and any essential medication (including insect repellent and anti-histamines).

Cubans dress casually but are always impeccably turned out.   Avoid bringing expensive or flashy jewellery.

Is this tour for me?

Travel style: cultural trip.

exploring vibrant Havana and the spectacular natural beauty of Western Cuba whilst taking the pulse of Cuba’s LGBT community.

Group style: Small

English speaking, 2 - 18 people, mixed nationalities. Minimum age 18 years.

Go private:

Create your own travel bubble by booking a private trip with friends or family. Private departures confirmed with two participants.

Busy days with a variety of activities and exposure to contemporary, queer Cuban culture.

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Uncovering Gay Havana, Cuba

After a 45-minute flight, we land on the cracked-concrete runway of José Martí International Airport, walk off the plane onto a seemingly deserted airstrip, and are greeted by a white bust of revolutionary José Martí.

I n old Havana there is a tree that’s said to be older than the city itself. It was here, though it was very young, when the Taíno people would worship, venerate, and respect her as Ancient Mother. It was here too, though a little older now, in 1519 when the Spanish first established a settlement. The land was claimed, right beside her growing roots, as San Cristóbal de la Habana. She provided shade for the first mass and bestowed a breeze for the first council meeting. And as she reached toward the heavens, so did a city. Becoming resilient and strong, prosperous and wealthy, devout and ideological—she soon had a home overlooking churches and plazas, statues and mansions that rivaled those of Europe. She felt the breeze of independence and briefly felt it taken away from her. As times changed, though, she witnessed the plight of the Cuban people under a dictatorship and felt the mumblings of revolution brush through her leaves. Then, in 1959, as winter drew to an end she was here still to feel the rumbling of a tank shake her roots to usher in spring and a new hope for her land. More than half a century later, the wind again sways her branches and one of her leaves falls in 2014, twirling like a Sky Dancer, landing flatly on my head.

I am about to visit Havana, Cuba for a whirlwind three-day trip, and I decide before boarding a charter flight from Miami to José Martí International Airport, to drop the veil on my parochial American upbringing, to observe and reflect on a country that has persevered through difficult times, and embrace (not criticize) its convictions. Of course, actually being in Havana, exploring, and meeting the people, I am forced to modify this original declaration. Havana lends itself to open-minded tourists who should be curious about the political system, who want to question the state of the city, and who will dig deeper into the country’s modern-day ethos while understanding its past. And once you find yourself sharing a mojito with a local, you may be surprised to see just how open and honest they are about their lives and their country. As my journey unfolds, I find the city to be a living testament of its history and ideals, and I meet a proud people who have the strength to overcome obstacles that the modern-day traveler may not realize still exist.

I am able to visit Cuba because of loosened travel restrictions on citizens of the USA thanks to a recent change in policy encouraged by President Barack Obama. Now, tour companies are allowed to operate in the island nation as long as they are licensed through the juggernaut education-based travel program called People to People . My trip is booked through Pride World Travel , a member of the IsramWorld portfolio of brands, which is beginning their LGBT-focused tours of Cuba in 2015. Because these are educational trips, Americans are still at the mercy of the Cuban government that works to organize specific itineraries for each group. If you don’t feel like going along with the plans, too bad. As long as the official government itinerary is in play, you’re required to be with your group. But as I learn during my trip, there is a leniency depending on your guide. Luckily, my itinerary is relaxed and filled with a steady stream of good food, fascinating people from the LGBT community (including my guide), and even time to relax at the gay beach.

I highly recommend visiting through a well-established tour company like Pride World Travel. The company handled every little detail of the trip. Having all the correct documents is especially nerve-wracking for Americans visiting Cuba. The night before we depart from Miami, a representative hands me a packet with everything I need. From a formal letter granting me access and a visa to the required Cuban-issued health insurance— everything is organized. Also, I receive the VIP treatment at the Miami airport when, instead of waiting in line for the charter flight, a representative greets us, takes our bags, and hands us all the required customs forms that we’ll need to enter Cuba.

A fter a 45-minute flight, we land on the cracked-concrete runway of José Martí International Airport, walk off the plane onto a seemingly deserted airstrip, and are greeted by a white bust of revolutionary José Martí. Once through the doors, we are escorted into a flickering neon-lit room filled with guards. I am so glad I have the paperwork in order. The buildup and anxiety are unnecessary. The pleasant (and handsome) agent takes my whole packet, stamps my passport (though I am told you can request a separate sheet to be stamped), and I walk through the door into the baggage claim area. Only one person in my group is taken aside for further questioning (this is routine), but he rejoins us a few minutes later.

Milena and Juani Santos

Our on-the-ground tour company, Havana Tours , which is government owned, whisks us through customs and takes us straight to a van. “Welcome to Havana,” shouts our guide, Oscar, who will be with us for the entire trip. He quickly begins pointing things out, but it’s hard to pay attention. I’m in CUBA , keeps repeating in my head. CUBA! The old 1950’s American-made cars rumble by us, but they aren’t exactly like the ones in pictures. Most are beat-up, rusted, and loud, but they are still so sexy and filled with men and women cruising with the windows down.

“Here’s a school,” he says pointing to a Creamsicle-orange building with kids in white uniforms playing tetherball in the clay ground surrounded by a lush baseball field. A propaganda billboard proclaiming “We Have Socialism” with a picture of revolution leaders serves as their backdrop. “All education up to a master’s is free in Cuba,” he proudly exclaims. We all collectively shake our heads thinking of our enormous student debts.

Then, we drive past the obelisk-like monument in Plaza de la Revolución and whiz around the iconic images of Che Guevera (“Until the Everlasting Victory, Always”) and the lesser-known revolution leader Camilo Cienfuegos (“You’re Doing Fine, Fidel”).

When we exit the turnabout plaza the street becomes a gorgeous, Spanish-inspired boulevard with a tree-lined pedestrian median. Here is where I get my first glimpse of the effects of Cuba’s political and economic climate. Each side of the avenue is lined with one stately mansion after another even-more-impressive mansion. Large gates open to reveal overgrown tropical flora and gorgeous Italianate-like buildings. Each, though, has been weathered by the climate forcing their colors to fade, but their beauty, and significance can easily still be admired. “The people who lived here,” our guide half-smirks, “Weren’t too happy about the Revolution.” And you can understand why. “Oh, what the gays in New York could do to this street,” one other guest quips.

As the avenue curves toward the sea, we see our massive hotel, Meliá Cohiba Hotel Havana .

El Templete

T hrough the tour company, we have VIP service and are brought to “The Level,” a special check-in area with a private concierge (you’ll be able to exchange your US dollars here for the local currency, the Cuban Convertible Peso or CUC). My accommodations are unexpectedly large; it’s a corner room with surrounding windows. I open the curtains, running around my room pulling them to reveal a stunning view of the sea. A large bed, two televisions (which get international channels), a Jacuzzi tub, and most amenities one would expect, including Wi-Fi (for a hefty price), from a modern hotel. We also take delight in the multiple restaurants, the outdoor pool on the second floor, the large gym/sauna, and the attention-to-every-detail customer service.

Celebrating our first night, we literally feast at a palador (privately owned restaurant) called La Moraleja . We walk down a lighted, trellised path to an indoor/outdoor dining area. The owner happily greets us and lets us see his extensive wine collection. Importing more than a couple bottles is illegal so this assortment has taken him and his father many years to collect. Havana Tourism representatives meet us and, in a grand show, we dine on chicken, lamb, lobster, traditional rice and beans, fried yucca, clams, shrimp, and fried cheese. It’s obvious, knowing a bit about the food rationing that the socialist system in Cuba uses, that our local company doesn’t normally dine this way (of course, we don’t either). I’m hesitant to talk about it, but a fellow traveler outright asks, in a non-disrespectful way: “You’re not used to eating like this are you?”

“No!” they all say laughing. Their candid response gives us our first glimpse at the openness of the Cuban people. Our hosts freely explain the ration books and what that gives them: rice, beans, and eggs. Taking a bite out of a lobster tail one says: “It’s why we are so lucky to have been placed in tourism.” It’s a sobering moment, and we consider asking for our food to go so we can share it with others. “No, no, no,” they insist, “You can leave it for the staff at the restaurant.”

The conversation never treads on awkward, which is refreshing. We compare apartment prices, talk about their travel restrictions, the new iPhone, if they ever figured out how Whitney Houston died, and if New York is just like the movies. The owner is happy we’re visiting too. To show his appreciation, he lights us Cuban cigars and brings us beautiful rum. Taking a pull on the cigar, I think to myself: I could get used to this .

After dinner, according to our official program, we’re to meet an activist group. So I am surprised when we arrive at a nightclub named after the award-winning Cuban-produced gay movie Strawberry and Chocolate called Café Fresa y Chocolate . Inside, there is a band waiting for us called Aceituna sin Hueso. This café by day is attached to the Cuban Film Institute and is a regular hangout for the arts community (a.k.a gay), but at night, particularly once a month, the band (not exactly an activist group) performs. “It’s a place where everyone feels safe,” the bombshell lead singer Miriela Moreno tells me. By looking around, you can see many more lesbian couples than gay men sitting at the tables drinking Crystal beer. For non-Spanish speakers, Moreno’s music is still easily understood through her palpable soul-crushing passion and the get-up-and-dance beats by her band. The group, who has traveled abroad to Spain to perform, uses their lyrics to send anti-homophobia and anti-prejudice messages, she tells me. I quickly develop a straight crush on her as I gulp down several Bucanero beers while watching them completely turn the small café into a Miami Beach–style club.

A driver picks me up in the morning in a 1950’s canary-yellow, convertible Buick Dynaflow—it’s that Havana moment I’ve read about. He honks his horn to the tune of “Turkey in the Straw” as we drive down the waterfront street called the Malecón. His horn pulsing to the rhythm of the sea attracts the attention of the early-morning fishermen who turn their attention away from their poles and give us a wave. The Cuban flag proudly waves in front of a grand monument to Cuban Independence hero Antonio Maceo Grajales who sits tall on his horse looking over the city. The car breezes past the José Martí Anti-Imperialist Platform, the site of tense anti-American protests, particularly during the Elián González affair. We pass the statue of González’s father holding a small Elián and pointing to the United States Interests Section’s glass-covered building. Even while pointing it out, our guide is never awkward about US and Cuban relations.

Havana Centro Outside Capitolio

I take in my first views of the famous buildings along the Malecón. Weathered by time, the buildings seem different depending on how the early-morning sun hits them. The sun’s struggling to pierce through the dark clouds overhead, and the lighting reveals splendid patterns, architectural accents, and varying states of decay and renovation. But most of all, I think, it reveals a color spectrum that my eyes are unaccustomed to seeing in New York. It reminds me of the colors from a PAAS Easter egg coloring kit, each egg always turned out to be a new and exciting shade. The row of buildings is peppered with new projects, including a new government-owned hotel, which gives me hope that this once-grand waterfront will be revitalized.

We then turn onto an unassuming street. In accordance with our itinerary, we’re to “Visit Paloma Project which promotes gender equality (part of the Cuban Institute of Cinematographic Art and Industry and meet with the Director Lizette Vila.” A woman, no taller than 5’2″, reaches her arms out for a hug as we reach the wrought-iron arched entrance, and a lumbering dog lifts his head at the upcoming excitement. She hugs each of us like a long-lost relative and leads us through the well-manicured front garden and into the building. Trinkets (witches, clocks, sage, figurines) and old photos (Castro, trans* activists, famous singers) dot the walls, and we carefully try not to disturb the large Santaria (local religion) shrine on the floor that’s filled with hopes, dreams, and prayers. We’re brought into a small room and offered tea and cookies, and we kindly accept (it is considered bad form not to enjoy specially prepared food).

One by one, new people enter and sit with us in a tiny windowless room. We form a circle and exchange those awkward first-meeting smiles. Lizette Vila enters the room and goes around introducing everyone. “This is Milena and Juani Santos,” she says pointing to an older gentleman and a young lady. “Juani is the first transgender person in Cuba, and Milena has recently transitioned and is the focus of an upcoming documentary,” she nonchalantly shares as our jaws nearly hit the floor.

She then continues and introduces Isabel Blanco, a famous ballerina who now teaches acceptance and empowerment through dance; Ingrid Leon, who produces documentaries about woman’s rights and has just completed the documentary about Milena; and Teresa de Jesús Fernández who works for the government’s gay-rights agency, Cenesex.

For a gay journalist, this room is a jackpot. I am ready to fire off question after question, but it never becomes a structured interview, it becomes a wonderful discussion that doesn’t lend itself to an uncomfortable middle-of-the-room recorder. We drop formalities, and we talk, connecting with each other, undistracted like pre-iPhone days. We learn of Juani’s struggles growing up as the only girl among boys and how he has found acceptance from his brothers after having pioneering surgery in Copenhagen. Milena tells us about being kicked out of her home and finding the government-supported resources and government-provided medical treatments to make her into the woman that she always knew she was. Ingrid discusses the difficulties of creating documentaries in Cuba and the thrill of watching her controversial pieces air on the state-run television channel and her hopes to show them at international festivals.

It is Lizette Vila, whose passion for her work, her openness, and her intelligence that captivates my attention most. Moving her hands with wild gesticulations, reminding me of my Italian grandmother, she discusses each person in the room’s successes and troubles. Her empathy and her understanding go far beyond the goal of the organization, which is to advance equality through the arts. While her ideas on feminism and the LGBT community seem quite progressive, even radical, she insists that they are in line with the beliefs of many other people in the country, including Mariela Castro, the director of Cinesex, and the daughter of President Raúl Castro.

She likens Cuba to a strong, fertile, and beautiful woman whose resilience in the face of revolution and embargoes continues to inspire her and the arts community. And while she is lucky to travel around the globe and meet with LGBT and feminist leaders, she continues to thank socialism. “It’s because of socialism and the Cuban government that we exist,” she tells us while placing her arm on my shoulder.

After long hugs and countless photos, our driver and Oscar have to nearly pull us away, despite the excitement of our next stop, the gay beach.

Our Editors

With an insatiable curiosity and an unquenchable thirst for adventure our Editors bring a unique perspective to every destination, weaving together vivid narratives that go beyond the surface to uncover the heart and soul of each place.

For a romantic getaway, point Cupid’s arrow toward Las Vegas

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JOIN us IN CUBA - 2025 DATES TBA

Encounter new lands and peoples in a way that values them, deepens your spirituality, broadens your worldview, and begins to heal the world.

Overview: Rainbow World Fund has been visiting Cuba since 2012. Our journey is educational, focusing on Cuba's history, politics, and spirituality. We will learn from the Cubans about the realities of their country. We'll visit projects that serve the Cuban people and meet with members of the LGBTQ+ community, church leadership, artists, and leaders in many fields. We will learn about Cuban history, from its colonial past to its revolutionary present, plus how the complex historical relationship between the U.S and Cuba remains ever-changing. During our visit you will gain insight into the struggles and hopes of the Cuban people. We will visit places such as medical clinics, programs that serve the elderly, art institutions, schools, and other historical and cultural sights. The many highlights include participating in the LGBTQ+ Pride celebrations in Havana.

Music is ubiquitous

Humanitarian Aid: Since 2012, RWF has funded humanitarian projects that help the people of Cuba. RWF’s projects include funding summer camps for children living with HIV, cancer, and other life-threatening illnesses. The camps teach valuable life skills aimed at fostering a healthy self-esteem, independence, and self-care. RWF has funded the distribution of emergency relief supplies and food aid to communities impacted by hurricanes. RWF also funds a variety of human rights efforts that help the LGBTQ+ community.

Travel With A Purpose

Learn about the cultural, historical, spiritual, and political realities of the developing world.

Explore human rights issues with a people whose traditions span centuries of development.

Experience ancient, colonial, and modern influences that have molded cultures of unique strength

Meet with members of the LGBTQ+ community, artists, and leaders in many fields

Learn about Cuban colonial, revolutionary history, and the complex U.S.-Cuba relationship

Visit medical clinics, art institutions

Meet with human rights activist Mariela Castro Espin and other leaders

Participate in LGBTQ Pride celebrations in Havana

Help deliver medical and educational supplies ... be forever changed.

The Rainbow World Fund Cuba Journey is an educational experience. We will learn from Cubans about the realities in their country by visiting projects that serve the Cuban people and by engaging in social and cultural education in the context of the LGBTQ+ community. The trip includes visits to diverse communities, meeting with leaders from a variety of fields, experiencing time on one of the top ten beaches in the world, great Cuban hospitality, and opportunities to practice your Spanish. The program strives to connect participants with the realities, struggles and hopes that Cubans experience each day. We also hope to bridge connections with Americans and Cubans to build understanding and partnerships. This is RWF's eighth trip to Cuba.

Cuban flag at the "Conga" - the LGBT Pride parade in Havana (2015)

Havana Cathedral

LGBTQ flag at the Conga - Havana’s Pride Parade (2014)

RWF volunteers visiting a school in Matanzas (2013)

RWF volunteers at CENESEX with Mariela Castro in Havana (2012)

Meeting with LGBT activists in Cardenas (2014)

Fidel Castro, Father of the Cuba Revolution

Classic American cars are seemingly everywhere

Visit non-touristed areas areas and communities.

RWF volunteers relaxing with pina coladas in Matanzas,

The dates for at next Cuba trip are TBA in 2025. Travel to Cuba is opening up but still remains restricted. We will be traveling as a humanitarian aid group and our itinerary reflects this. We are still creating the itinerary for the trip. We will spend the first 5 nights of the trip in Havana. We will be staying in beautiful Old Havana at Plaza Vieja. The location is ideal, and our guest house is comfortable, clean and air conditioned. While in Havana we will visit historic and cultural sites, medical clinics, museums, human rights, and humanitarian projects, and will participate in the Conga - the LGBTQ+ Pride celebration.

After we leave Havana, we will travel 2.5 hours to beautiful Varadero where we will spend 5 nights. We will use this location as a base to visit many humanitarian projects and sites of cultural interest. Varadero Beach, one of the top ten beaches in the world…white sand and clear blue water…. is pretty much a dream. This will be a time to relax and enjoy the slower pace. Weather permitting there will be an opportunity snorkel off a reef among school of tropical fish.

Political art representations such as this mural of the late President Hugo Chavez of Venezuela are found in many places.

Every trip is unique.

Here are a few of the many highlights from past trips: .

March in the LGBTQ+ Pride Parades in Havana and Matanzas

Meet with Mariela Castro and human rights activists

Meet with members of Parliament and leaders in many fields

Visit schools, medical clinics, and the Institute of Tropical Medicine

Spend time at the Martin Luther King Center

Experience an amazing LGBTQ+ extravaganza at the Karl Marx Theater

Learn about communism, socialism, and Cuba's unique capitalism

Meet with political dissidents - critics of state policy

Meet members of the Cuba 5 - formerly imprisoned in the US

Learn how the Christian, Jewish and Yoruba religions survived

Visit ecological areas and learn about the Cuban organic movement

Learn how Cuba has survived post USSR and under the US embargo

Visit non touristed communities in Cardenas and San Nicholas

Learn about socialized health care at a children's neurological center

Spending time with members of the Cuban LGBTQ+ community

Cruise Havana in a 1950s American Car

Explore historic Old Havana

Attend a concert by Bueno Vista Social Club

Visit the Bay of Pigs

Snorkel the reefs of Varadero

Visit the Revolutionary Museum in Havana

See the amazing modern art at the National Museum of Fine Arts

Stroll the Malecón, Havana's evocative 8km-long sea drive

Explore La Necrópolis de Cristóbal Colón Cemetery

Experience Fusterlandia - the home and neighborhood of artist Jose Fuster

See Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabaña colloquially aka "La Cabaña"

Have Cuba Libres with friends at the elegant former DuPont home

Attend ballet, modern dance, and other musical/artistic performances

Posing in front of artist Jose Fuster's "Granma" the yacht that launched Fidel and Raul Castro, Che Guevara, Camilo Cienfuegos and 79 fighters at the start of the Revolution (2015)

Trip Cost, Trip Handbook, and how to register:

The trip cost is $2,800 and includes a Cuba travel visa (required), all hotels and accommodations, in-country transportation by private van, all meals (except one), all tips/gratuities, translation and guide services, speaker’s fees, entrance fees to special events. It does not include round trip air transportation from the USA. Flights are available from several US airports to Havana. To learn more click here to read the 2023 trip handbook PDF (2025 verion TBA).

** If you are interested in joining us on this trip please click here to send us a message and to set up an interview.

Our front yard - where we stay in Varadero

RWF Founder Jeff Cotter in Havana

Viva La Revolucion - Long live the Revolution poster.

Music is everywhere in Cuba

Escapades With Gay: Travel Blog

A Novelist's Eye View

Enjoy a Weekend in Cuba

If you visit Cuba, you are not allowed to have fun. The United States lists 12 approved reasons to travel — excluding tourism, which rules out a sybaritic vacation at a beach resort but not much else. Most independent travelers select the people-to-people category because the reason most people travel is to connect with others. While more timorous travelers join groups promoting educational or religious activities — paying a premium for the guides and arrangements — the recent introduction of Airbnb and commercial flights have eliminated many barriers.

The largest island in the Caribbean and once forbidden fruit, Cuba is only an hour’s flight from Florida. Lured by cheap fares from Tampa to Havana, we planned a long weekend trip and convinced friends to join us. Traveling as a foursome was economical for sharing taxis and accommodations. Our early morning Thursday flight and our return Sunday evening gave us four full days and three nights to explore Havana.

Due to a scarcity of comfortable lodgings, hotels are expensive, but already Airbnb has more than 10,000 Cuban listings. We were delighted that our apartment turned out to be far more deluxe than we expected. Although the third-floor walkup in still-swanky Miramar — a neighborhood of ostentatious mansions confiscated by the state and now leased to embassies — had a drab exterior, our modern suite had three bedrooms, each with mini fridges stocked with water, beer and sodas; three spotless baths — one with bidet; a full kitchen; large dining room; several comfy seating areas; and a small balcony. Most surprising — and welcome — were new air-conditioning units in every room.

Our host, Jose, arranged for a taxi to pick us up at the airport, helped with exchanging currency and provided us with a Wi-Fi card. Internet access in Havana is new and rare, but it worked (most of the time) in the apartment. Jose and his family are pioneer entrepreneurs in still-communist Cuba. If you rent a hotel room most of your money goes to the government, but the average Airbnb host makes $250 per booking. When you realize that a physician earns only $50 a month and the average worker even less, the sharing economy is a huge boon for Cuba’s early entrepreneurs.

If I squinted, Havana’s pastel modernist houses reminded me of my visits to Miami as a child. While we expected to see a few antique cars, we didn’t realize there were thousands of these grand dames in sherbet colors available as taxis — the perfect way to get the vibe. We spent the first day touring in a ’52 canary-yellow Chevy convertible.

As we drove along the waterfront Malecon and through the narrow streets of old Havana, Cuba’s architecture telegraphed its history from the crumbling colonial mansions begging to be put out of their misery to the bleak Soviet-era apartment blocks to Art Deco symbolized by the iconic Bacardi building. Looming over the skyline is the Russian embassy with its colossal watchtower that reminds Cubans they still might be under surveillance.

While imagining Fidel Castro haranguing a cheering crowd as we stood in the Plaza de la Revolucion, our guide, Enrique, told us about surviving the “special period” — a euphemism for the era after the Soviet Union’s demise when they stopped supplying oil, food and other vital materials. Food was so scarce that his family chewed floor mops and other inedible items to quell hunger pangs. He is frustrated by his choices: either working as an engineer for $50 a month or squiring tourists for $30 an hour. He despairs of ever leaving the island, even for a vacation.

“Nobody will give me a visa,” he said, “because I have no family, no wife, no reason to ever return.”

Curious to see how artists cope with their repressive environment, we visited the Museo National de Bellas Artes (Cuban section). While we expected sanitized landscapes and portraits, the raw, honest and often disturbing portrayals of the harshness of Cuban life made us feel as if we were complicit in an anti-communist plot. One of the most searing is Abel Barroso’s “Teora del Transito del Arte Cubano” (Theory of Sending Cuban Art). The names of Cuban artists are painted on boomerangs mounted on a wall in the shape of the island nation. The installation is festooned with parachutes, letters, stamps and wrapped boxes that depict the hopelessness of getting artistic messages to the world at large.

Nobody goes to Cuba for the cuisine — yet. Until recently “Cuban food” was an oxymoron based on rice, beans and not much else. While there is more food now due to reforms in Cuba’s inefficient agricultural system, tourism — the island’s economic lifeline — has driven up the prices and diverted the best produce to visitors. On the return flight our seatmate told us he had spent a week on his grandmother’s farm just outside the capital and had not eaten meat for a week. Guests fare better. One result of Raul Castro’s reforms has been an upsurge in paladares, private restaurants. Tourists who pay with CUCs — the Cuban convertible peso — are able to order steak, shrimp and lobster, which are out of reach of citizens who use the CUP — the regular peso, worth far less.

We selected most of our cafes because they were within walking distance of our apartment. Our first lunch was at El Aljibe, a state-run restaurant. Despite a lengthy menu, the only acceptable order was the succulent pollo asado, a slow-roasted chicken with rice, beans, fried plantain and salad served outdoors under a thatched roof. The next day in central Havana we ended up at Chachacha, which uses old LP records as placemats. At one point the electricity went out, but everyone acted as if this were normal and went on eating.

The following evening, at La Carboncita, we enjoyed superb homemade pasta in a garden setting. Tamara, the owner, explained how she went from a job in the Ministry of Foreign Relations to running a popular private restaurant. La Cocina de Lilliam is justifiably so popular that we could only get reservations for lunch, when we sat outdoors amid eclectic antiques. A basket of scrumptious homemade breads heralded an unexpected array of fresh, creative and delicious dishes with a Creole flair. An appealing arrangement of cabbage, carrots and cucumbers made up for a lack of salad greens, which are scarce on the island.

The most uplifting moment of the weekend was a visit to Fusterlandia on Sunday before heading to the airport. Mosaicist Jose Fuster has created a wonderland in homage to artist Antoni Gaudi, featuring stars, hearts, hands, lizards, chickens and Picassoesque portraits. Not content just to cover every surface of his home with brilliant shards, the exuberant artist has extended his whimsical folk art murals to the surrounding neighborhood. His life-affirming joy was contagious.

Go to Cuba now to experience the time warp before the inevitable development. Tip well because your money is a lifeline. But remember, having fun is not a permissible activity — so don’t tell anyone that we enjoyed ourselves immensely!

WHEN YOU GO

While President Trump announced on June 6 that he is “immediately” canceling independent travel to Cuba, the reversal of President Obama’s deal relies on regulations that could take months — or years — to finalize. Go soon or lose this short-lived travel freedom.

JetBlue, Southwest and Alaska offer direct flights from New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Fort Lauderdale and Tampa. All include the mandatory health insurance while you are in Cuba. The airlines facilitate a visa for $50 per person, which you can pick up when you check in for your flight.

Airbnb (www.airbnb.com) offers the largest array of lodging at affordable prices and promotes people-to-people contact better than a hotel, as does the Cuban version: Casa Particular (www.casaparticular.com) .

Taxis are ubiquitous. Some warn that the Lada drivers charge more. Best to negotiate the fare before entering the cab. An hour for touring is usually $30, but shorter rides vary widely. Vintage Tour Cuba is a reliable agency that features classic convertibles with set prices by the hour or day, including airport runs. Their English-speaking driver-guides are highly knowledgeable, and riding around in a ’52 Chevy convertible was especially evocative of earlier times: [email protected].

Take cash — and more than you expected. U.S. credit cards are not accepted and few places other than hotels take Canadian or European ones, either. Havana video courtesy of Emmy-award winning filmmaker Philip Courter

Where it's a crime to be gay: A visual guide to where LGBTQ+ rights are repressed

Uganda enacted one of the harshest anti-gay laws in the world last week, a bill known as the Anti-Homosexuality Act of 2023 . It imposes a life sentence for engaging in "same-sex sexual acts," and the death penalty for gay sex in certain circumstances, such as while infected with an illness like HIV or for having sex with a person with disabilities or a minor. (LGBTQ+ advocates in the U.S. condemn the implication of LGBTQ+ people as groomers or pedophiles.)

It came days before the start of Pride Month, a global event in June that celebrates LGBTQ+ communities around the world. But while the Uganda law has drawn international condemnation and even sparked a fight among a couple of U.S. conservatives , it is not an outlier. The LBGTQ+ community remains heavily criminalized in many parts of the world.

Indeed, around the world, being LGBTQ+ can lead to whippings or other punishments that seem outdated. In Russia, being gay has been legal since 1983, but there are still fines for a lack of "traditional values."

Here's a global overview of where sexual and gender minority rights are threatened:

'Horrific': Biden, Cruz slam Anti-homosexuality Bill in Uganda that includes death penalty

LGBTQ+: Punished in 64 different countries

Of 193 countries in the United Nations, 64 still criminalize same-sex acts, according to a database run by the International Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Trans and Intersex Association (ILGA). "Same-sex acts'' is the phrase used by this and other human rights monitoring organizations.

By region, this criminalization breaks down as follows:

• In Africa, same-sex acts are illegal in 32 out of the continent's 52 countries. The countries where it is illegal: Algeria, Burundi, Cameroon, Chad, Comoros, Egypt, Eritrea, Eswatini, Ethiopia, Gambia, Ghana, Guinea, Kenya, Liberia, Libya, Malawi, Mauritania, Mauritius, Morocco, Namibia, Nigeria, Senegal, Sierra Leone, Somalia, South Sudan, Sudan, Tanzania, Togo, Tunisia, Uganda, Zambia, Zimbabwe.
• In Asia and the Middle East , same-sex acts are illegal in 20 countries: Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Brunei, Iran, Iraq, Kuwait, Lebanon, Malaysia, Maldives, Myanmar, Oman, Pakistan, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Sri Lanka, Syria, Turkmenistan, United Arab Emirates, Uzbekistan, Yemen.
• There are no places in Europe where same-sex acts are illegal.
• In the Americas, same-sex acts are prohibited in Dominica, Grenada, Guyana, Jamaica, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines.
• In Oceania, the region made up of Australia and other island nations in the South Pacific Ocean, same-sex acts are not allowed in Kiribati, Papua New Guinea, Samoa, Solomon Islands, Tonga andTuvalu.

From whippings to fines for a lack of 'traditional values'

Across the world, criminal sentences for same-sex acts, certain forms of sexual orientation and minority gender expression can range from fines or several months in prison to life in jail, from whipping to the death penalty. In some countries, laws are vague and open to interpretation. In others, it's the exact opposite. In Russia, for example, where same-sex acts have been legal since 1993, the government actively targets LGBTQ+ people and communities through discriminatory propaganda and fines for not having "traditional values."

Where there is the death penalty for same-sex acts:

• Brunei, Iran, Mauritania, Nigeria, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Uganda and Yemen.

Prison, fines, or whipping for minority forms of sexual or gender expression:

• Brunei, Kuwait, Malawi, Malaysia, Oman, Saudi Arabia, South Sudan, Tonga, Uganda and United Arab Emirates.

Countries that in recent years decriminalized same-sex relationships:

• Angola (2021), Botswana (2019), India (2018), Mozambique (2015), Singapore (2023).

Same-sex union: Where it's lawful

The Netherlands was the first country in the world to fully legalize same-sex marriage. It did so in 2001. The U.S. was the 17th country to legalize same-sex unions, which it did in 2015.

Same-sex marriage is now legal in 34 places around the world:

• Andorra, Argentina, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brazil, Canada, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Cuba, Denmark, Ecuador, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Luxembourg, Malta, Mexico, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, Slovenia, South Africa, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, U.K., U.S. and Uruguay.

Where same-sex marriage was legalized in the last year:

• Andorra, Cuba, Slovenia.

Where there are pledges to legalize same-sex marriage in 2023:

• Czech Republic, India, Japan, Philippines.

Countries in Africa where same-sex marriage is legal:

• South Africa.

Places in Asia where same-sex marriage is legal:

Travel: Where to go, where's a no-go

The Spartacus Blog’s Gay Travel Index advises LGBTQ+ vacationers on which countries they can expect to be most safe in, where their rights are most protected, and where to avoid. Among the criteria assessed: anti-discrimination legislation, marriage/civil partnerships, whether adoption is allowed, transgender rights, infrastructure, views on conversion therapy, religious influence, local hostility, and laws surrounding prosecution.

The U.S. came in at 35 out of 199 global destinations.

LGBTQ+-friendly travel destinations in 2023:

• Malta, Canada, Switzerland.

Where not to go as an LGBTQ+ vacationer, according to the index:

• Indonesia, Saudi Arabia, Iran, and Afghanistan.

The most LGBTQ+-friendly U.S. states in 2023:

• California, New York, Washington, Colorado.

The worst U.S. states to be an LGBTQ+ vacation, per the index:

• Oklahoma, Tennessee, West Virginia. Florida also fared poorly. In late May, the NAACP issued the following travel advisory as a result of Florida governor and U.S. presidential candidate Ron DeSantis's policies: "Florida is openly hostile toward African Americans, people of color and LGBTQ individuals."

U.S. Christian evangelicals spend big around the world

Human rights campaigners have long complained that U.S. Christian evangelical organizations have pushed policies, laws and public opinion that discriminate against sexual and gender minorities and reproductive rights for people across the world. A 2020 investigation by openDemocracy , for example, found that U.S.-based Family Watch International had, for a decade, been coaching high-ranking African politicians and religious and civic leaders to oppose sexuality education across the continent. Family Watch International also had a hand in shaping Uganda's 2023 Anti-Homosexuality Bill , according to openDemocracy.

Amount spent globally by U.S. groups on anti-abortion and anti-LGBTQ+ influence campaigns since 2008:

• At least $280 million.

Amount spent by U.S. groups on anti-abortion and anti-LGBTQ+ influence campaigns in Africa since 2008:

• At least $54 million.

Amount requested by the Biden administration in 2023 for foreign assistance programs that promote gender equity and equality worldwide for those who face discrimination :

• $2.6 billion.

Still, according to a recent analysis by the Brookings Institution , these programs chiefly focus on "enabling conditions" for women and young girls "to exercise voice and agency in their homes, workplaces, communities and public life." There is comparatively less understanding, according to the Brookings analysis, about how to deploy these funds for international programs that close rights gaps for sexual and gender minorities.

Reactions to Uganda's Anti-Homosexuality Bill

Ugandan LGBTQ+ rights activists filed a lawsuit in the country's Constitutional Court challenging the bill. The Biden administration said it was considering imposing sanctions and visa restrictions. The European Union urged Uganda to revoke the bill and protect the rights of all Ugandans and said the law would impact Uganda's ties with international partners. A coalition of major companies including Google and Unilever said the law would curb investment flows to Uganda and deter tourism. One Kenyan lawmaker applauded the bill's passage.

• "Creating new crimes like these are a well-known way to engineer a legal basis to throw those with divergent views behind bars. It will push many into self-censorship and silence critical voices as Uganda's governance and human rights crises continue to deteriorate." − Clare Byarugaba, Ugandan rights activist
• "Cry beloved Uganda, cry for this sad day."− Stella Nyanzi, Ugandan human rights advocate
• "The law foresees the application of the death penalty and long prison sentences for consensual acts between adults. This law raises the risk of worsening the violence and persecution already faced by lesbian, gay and bisexual people in Uganda." − Stephane Dujarric, spokesman for the United Nations Secretary-General
• "Uganda's progress on its HIV response is now in grave jeopardy. The Anti-Homosexuality Act 2023 will obstruct health education and the outreach that can help end AIDS as a public health threat. The stigma and discrimination associated with the passage of the Act has already led to reduced access to prevention as well as treatment services."− Joint statement from the Global Fund to Fight AIDS, Tuberculosis and Malaria, the Joint United Nations Programme on HIV/AIDS and the U.S. President’s Emergency Plan for AIDS Relief
• "The enactment of Uganda’s Anti-Homosexuality Act is a tragic violation of universal human rights. I join with people around the world − including many in Uganda − in calling for its immediate repeal." − U.S. President Joe Biden
• "The Uganda law is horrific and wrong. Any law criminalizing homosexuality or imposing the death penalty for “aggravated homosexuality” is grotesque & an abomination. ALL civilized nations should join together in condemning this human rights abuse."− U.S. Sen. Ted Cruz
• "With a lot of humility, I thank my colleague Members of Parliament for withstanding all the pressure, in the interest of our Country. By their action, we have lived our motto: For God and our Country."− Ugandan Parliament Speaker Anita Annet Among
• "Wow! What a leader we've in Africa! Congratulations Uganda! Kenya is following you in this endeavor to save humanity … Perversion is treated, not normalized!"− George Kaluma, Kenyan member of Parliament

Sources: ILGA database, Human Rights Watch, Human Dignity Trust , Human Rights Campaign , openDemocracy, U.S. Agency for International Development

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Tired and confused, first migrants reach California border after Biden’s asylum order

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Shortly after President Biden’s executive order to restrict asylum access took effect late Tuesday, 50 migrants completed a nine-hour trek through the mountains just north of Tecate, Mexico.

They lined up single file against the brush, in a dusty clearing steps from Highway 94, and waited for Border Patrol agents to pick them up. The migrants, a group including men, women and children from Cuba, Ecuador, China and Brazil, were exhausted, nearly out of food and water.

Many hadn’t heard of the order, which raises the legal standard for asylum claims and blocks access for those crossing the border illegally when average arrests are higher than 2,500 a day.

World & Nation

Biden signs order tightening border with Mexico when crossings surge

President Biden signs an executive order allowing him to close the border with Mexico outside official ports of entry when crossings are high, with few exceptions.

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Lucas Lu, 32, did know about it and worried he had arrived too late to seek asylum. The rule goes against American values, he said.

“It’s not fair,” he said, sitting with his legs crossed in the dirt. “We risked our lives to get here.”

The Chinese former hotel manager had a back brace wrapped around his T-shirt and leaned on a walking stick. He said he had sustained a spinal injury while traveling by boat in Panama. Getting to the southern border had taken him three months.

Lu said he was fleeing authoritarian repression in search of safety, dignity and the ability to speak freely without the threat of jail.

Just past 11 p.m. three sprinter vans and five other vehicles pulled up to the site.

“ Gracias a Dios ,” one woman exclaimed in the dark. “Thank God.”

Photos: A visual report from the border following President Biden’s rollout of asylum restrictions

Photos of first migrants reaching California border after Biden’s asylum order

June 6, 2024

The agents brought out trash bags and told the migrants to dump their food and water. One picked up Lu’s walking stick and hurled it into the brush.

“None of this, OK?” he said.

They patted migrants down and loaded them into the vans. An additional 45 migrants were coming down the hill, one agent said, plus groups of 40 and 90 in other areas.

Before and after the order took effect at 9 p.m. Pacific time, the night appeared relatively quiet overall, with many of the crossing sites east of San Diego deserted.

After migrant arrivals rose, making San Diego the top sector across the border, arrests dipped again in recent weeks.

But the daily average of arrests between official ports of entry remains above the 2,500 threshold.

San Diego is now the top border region for migrant arrivals

For first time in 25 years, San Diego is the top spot in the nation for migrant border crossings, surpassing Tucson.

April 25, 2024

During a call with reporters Wednesday, a senior Department of Homeland Security official said the day started with just over 9,000 people in custody who were arrested before the order took effect — on par with average figures over the last month. The agency didn’t see a significant increase in arrivals of migrants trying to beat the deadline.

Since then, migrants have been removed pursuant to the order, the official said, declining to provide figures. The agency is ramping up efforts to maximize the impact of the order in the coming weeks.

Migrants from Mexico can be quickly returned, and the Mexican government previously agreed to accept some migrants from Venezuela, Nicaragua, Haiti and Cuba. The official acknowledged it will remain challenging to remove migrants from other countries, such as China, that don’t regularly accept deportation flights.

In Tijuana, Jose Garcia Lara, director of the Movimiento Juventud 2000 shelter, worries the executive order could cause a crisis as migrants become bottlenecked in northern Mexico.

The shelter, which has capacity for 200 people, had seen about 60 people daily, Garcia Lara said. In recent days, that number had gone up to 100.

Garcia Lara said the shelter numbers tend to be low when more people choose to cross the border illegally. Shelter residents are those waiting for an appointment with border agents through the U.S. Customs and Border Protection phone app, which is glitchy and slow .

He remembers the arrivals of Haitians in 2016, the caravans of Central Americans after that, the way the pandemic-era border rule kept migrants out of the U.S. and crowded in Mexican shelters.

Recently, migrants have shown up not just from the Western Hemisphere but from all over the world — and they’ll keep coming, he said. “We’re used to it,” he said. “What we’ll do is receive them.”

Rosario de Leon, 38, from Mexico’s Chiapas state and her wife, Gracia Cortez, 27, from El Salvador have waited two months for an appointment. They said they had faced discrimination as a gay couple, including in Tijuana, and fled gang extortion.

Cortez said the new rule is fair. Hopefully, it means more appointments could open up through the app, she said.

“It’s not fair that someone enters irregularly while others are following the rules,” she said. “We all need to be patient.”

Across the border at a trolley station in San Ysidro, Mariela Diaz, 28, waited Tuesday afternoon for her husband to be released from federal custody.

Diaz, from Colombia, charged her phone and caught up on the news of the executive order.

“I’m an immigrant, but it’s also something that is getting out of control,” she said. “I understand the president’s decision.”

She was relieved she arrived before the order took effect. Still, she felt for those who would arrive too late.

More to Read

Opinion: Why Biden’s new border plan is a terrible idea

Why Biden’s order on the ‘out of control’ border may not fix Democrats’ political problem

Migrants from around the world have made this stretch of California the top place to enter the U.S. illegally

May 16, 2024

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Andrea Castillo covers immigration. Before joining the Los Angeles Times, she covered immigrant, ethnic and LGBTQ+ communities for the Fresno Bee. She got her start at the Oregonian in Portland. A native of Seattle, she’s been making her way down the West Coast since her graduation from Washington State University.

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