olympus trip 35 repair manual

How to Fix and Refurbish an Olympus Trip 35

I recently bought a non-working camera that was older than me. Looking around the internet, I found some help on fixing a common issue (stuck aperture blades) and how to apply some nice new skins for a modern look. I set my heart on bringing my Trip back to life and hopefully, this guide will inspire and help others to do the same.

Having picked up a faulty Olympus Trip 35 for £5, it was time to attempt a fix and refurbish to restore the camera to working condition. Top priority has to be working mechanicals but I also prepared to clean and re-skin the camera too. If you wish to undertake the task yourself I would advise the following materials and tools:

• Small screwdrivers
• Stanley/craft knife
• Lighter fluid
• Microfiber cloth
• Cotton ear buds
• Brasso or metal polish
• Washing-up liquid
• Cocktail or lollipop sticks
• Ice-cube tray to hold screws safely
• New skin (http://aki-asahi.com/store/)
• New light seals (http://aki-asahi.com/store/)

Now, on to the tutorial.

Step 1. Firstly, you need to check the meter is working correctly. To be absolutely certain it is, you’ll need to remove the top plate of the camera and check the needle movement. Start by removing the screw in the lefthand side under the wrist strap lug. Two more screws can be found under the rewind crank. To get to these, simply open the back, wedge something like a lollipop stick in to keep it from spinning, and unscrew the crank from the top.

Step 2. With the top off, you should now have access to the meter, or more importantly the meter needle. With no light entering the camera (cover the front of the lens with your hand), the needle will be pushed up against the viewfinder. Now point the lens to some bright light and the needle should swing to the middle. This confirms the meter is working. In that case (as with this particular camera), the fault lies with the aperture blades.

Step 3. The top can now be reassembled but be sure to clean any muck from hard-to-reach areas as you do to make cleaning the camera later a little easier. To get to the aperture blades, start by removing the bottom plate of the camera by unscrewing the two small screws. Now turn your attention to the front inner ring (with the writing on) and locate the three small screws around the rim before you remove them to set the aperture to ‘A’ and the focal length to infinity (the mountain symbol). Now loosen the three screws but do not remove them completely. The ring can now be pulled off.

Step 4. To remove the front lens element, simply unscrew it. It’s important to mark it before you move it so it can be returned into the exact same position. If not, the camera’s focus will be off. I suggest a marker or a scratch from a knife on the rim at the 12 o’clock position. Remove the lens, give it a good clean with a microfiber cloth and set it aside.

Step 5. Now you need to remove the bulk of the lens from the body. To begin, lift the wires on the bottom of the camera over the tripod thread to loosen them. Now locate the three deeper screws inside the lens and remove all three. The lens will now pull off the body exposing the middle element. Remove this and clean it also.

Now we get to the important aperture blades. Remove the screws holding it in place and start to work it with your fingers. It should open and close easily enough. Now take the lighter fluid and thoroughly clean the blades and surrounding metal. Keep working them and you should notice that they now move more freely. Leave the blades to fully dry or use a hairdryer. It’s important not to lubricate the blades as they will eventually stick again. To aid lubrication you can rub some graphite onto the blades by simply using a craft knife or Stanley blade to shave the end of a soft pencil (I used a 3B). Blow away any excess.

Step 6. With the blades now moving with ease, clean the rear lens element and trace back through your steps to reassemble the lens. Remember to align the front element as you marked it at the start. Once the lens has been assembled move the focal length dial one way then the other to make sure that the front element is rotating at the same time.

If everything looks good, it’s time for a test. The easiest test is to leave the aperture on ‘A’, cover the lens, and try to depress the shutter. If everything is now working, the shutter will not fire and a red flag will be shown in the viewfinder. Removing your hand from the lens and trying again should allow the shutter to fire.

You can also see the apertures in action by selecting them manually and either pressing the shutter half way. At f/2.8, the hole will be nice and wide whereas f/22 will have a very narrow hole. These tests confirmed that the repair in this particular camera was successful!

With the mechanics now working, you can turn your attention to the looks. Start by pulling off the camera’s current skin which should peel off quite nicely. Now locate the old messy light seals by the hinge of the door and clean these up. With the old seals removed stick the new ones in place using a cocktail stick to get to the hard-to-reach areas.

Step 9. At this point, you can give the camera an all over clean with some mild washing-up liquid and water mix with a slightly damp cloth and allow it to dry. Now polish the camera with something like Brasso liquid, taking care to avoid the parts the new skin is going to be stuck to. Depending on the condition of the camera you could use ultra-fine grit sandpaper or polish to really go to work on the camera. This is something I may look to in the future for the silver colored parts.

The new skins are relatively easy to attach. They don’t fix permanently so you can correct any errors. Be sure to get the skin right under the lens for a good fit. Now get the cocktail stick into any hard to reach areas and wipe over the skin to make sure there are no bubbles and it’s firmly in place.

Et voila! You're done!

You could go further and paint over the black painted parts that have worn over time but if you're like me and you intend on using the camera and not just keep it as a display, it’s probably not worth it. More importantly, be sure to run a cheap film through the camera to test the focus wasn’t incorrectly set when putting the lens back together. If it removed the front inner ring again, give the front element a 1/4 turn maximum and try again. Alternatively, there are more detailed instructions on the internet to help reset the focus.

This is a tutorial submitted by Community Member veato

written by veato on 2011-08-20 #gear #tutorials #camera #tutorial #olympus #tipster #clean #skin #fix #olympus-trip #refurbish #veato #aperture-blades

trip35snapper , photonstorm , olaab , fotodisc , ltinuviel , awesomesther , desibel , lowrising , julioaraujo , miich , pinkpix , domo-guy , stouf , mizz_eva , mcrstar , maximalanders , paper_doll , hewzay , mr-korn , wuxiong , crayfish , adi_totp & k_melancholy .

13 Comments

Great article on probably my favourite camera. Looks good in green!

That is a very cool makeover.

Hey - I finally got a trip off ebay and despite them saying it was in full working order I have no red flag and the aperture blades are stuck!!! Looks like I will have to do a repair. Is this easy to do? Also is it worth doing or if there is no red flag should I assume that the light meter isn't working anyway?

It's worth doing the repair. The red flag on mine wasn't working properly until I fixed the blades. It's not too difficult as long as a) you have a tiny screwdriver for the lens assembly and b) you mark the position of the front element so when it goes back together it's still in focus. If you're not sure it could always help you out. I'm fixing another one this weekend funnily enough for someone else!

Ahh thanks! I recently bought myself a €2 Olympus Pen, that seems to have the same problem as your Trip. This article got me motivated to try and fix it!

Hi, I own an Olympus TRIP which was working perfectly. But unfortunately I do not know how due to tension arising from being in my bag, the lens barrel (as a whole) came off and I am terrified. I cannot fix the lens barrel into the body. Can I? Please say yes.

Nice tutorial. One thing caught me off guard: A tiny ball bearing fell out, when I removed the main part of the lens assembly. I managed to work out that it sits inside the assembly to make the aperture choices click into place. Apart from that these instructions enabled me to fix a stuck aperture in my Trip. Nice!

Great article which helps enormously to repair the camera. - In case of my Trip 35, the shutter blades did not move anymore. In the article are good hints given how to get read of the bulk of the lens; the most difficult thing for me was to lift the wires on the bottom of the camera over the tripod thread to loosen them. After I managed this, I tried to clean the blades with petrolether. Unfortunately it did not work very well. Because of this, I tried to push a thin piece of paper between the to blades and to move it in all directions to remove any dirt or fat which sticks between the blades. Bingo! Without any more petrolether - which could also contaminate the lens - the blades move as they should and the camera works properly again. I tried this 'trick' also on with my Olympus PEN EE-3 which is similarly constructed as the TRIP 35. The result was the same! Unfortunately I forgot to make any pictures of the paper between the blades - sorry. However, maybe this is of any help of other camera users!?

In addition to my previous comment I like to present two pictures showing the thin paper between the two shutter blades in order to clean them. In this case the camera is an Olympus Pen EE-3 but the shutter is similarly constructed as the TRIP 35 - as mentioned before! /home/dietmar/Bilder 2/P1070231.JPG /home/dietmar/Bilder 2/P1070233.JPG

Hi, really nice article! thanks! I got a 30 € camera from catawiki, they said it was working but it ha a problem with the film loading. I removed the upper part and checking the mechanism I found the screw in the "thumbwheel" broken... any suggestion about trying to find this piece? here you can find the screw (and many other information about repairing!) www.petervis.com/electronics%20guides/Olympus%20Trip%2035/C… thanks!

@martzin check here about the ball bearing! www.petervis.com/electronics%20guides/Olympus%20Trip%2035/C…

Thank you so much for your detailed tutorial. This is my first film camera purchase and I bought it off someone who told me it was in full working order so the price reflected that. It wasn’t cheap to buy and it will be costly to send away fro repair. I am going to have a go at fixing it myself, your careful instructions have given me the confidence to tackle it. I am worried about the ball bearing though. Thanks @tropez for adding the guide, it doesn’t show the ball bearing in place, so if it fell out I would have no idea where to place it. Does anyone have a photo of the ball bearing in place? And did anyone come across any other issues ?

My aperture blades are stuck and i have trouble removing the lens. I have a piece of glass in front of it so i can’t reach the screws. Can anyone help?

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Resources to repair an olympus trip 35.

I came across this old Olympus Trip 35 camera at a pawn shop in Central Oregon and couldn’t pass it up for the price. I’ve shot a handful of different Olympus film SLRs in the past, but I’ve never gotten my hands on any of their point-and-shoot or rangefinder models. Make no mistake, the Trip 35 is a true point-and-shoot, grab-and-go camera that can produce some fun and surprising results.

Of course, if you’re seeking out a repair blog, you probably already know all this or you’re looking to patch up your ailing Trip 35 and make some memories.

I didn’t know much about these cameras before grabbing this one off the shelf, so I just loaded it up with a roll of Fuji Superia 400 film and handed it over to my wife to shoot a test roll. It came back with some spot-on photos, but also some missed opportunities with off exposure and weird focus shifts. So I started digging…

One of the most obvious things was that the lens barrel was very loose and wobbly. It’s a common problem where 4 mounting screws that secure the lens to the camera body work themselves loose overtime. In fact, one even came all the way out and started rattling around in the camera when my wife was using it! I think this was leading to some focusing issues, especially on close-up subjects in low light, where a small shift could throw have a greater affect.

Take these two photos for example, both taken back-to-back in low light in our living room. One came out, the other is blurry even though we’re the same distance apart in both photos.

Ok, so neither photo is tack-sharp, but this little camera did well given the lighting conditions.

One other thing I noticed is that the exposure was off a bit in a few shots, mostly in extreme conditions of bright sun and low light. Digging around on the internets I learned that this may be a death sentence for the camera since it’s full-auto and depends on its meter to function. Scary shit, right?!

But I don’t have much invested in this camera, so I figured this was a great chance to test my knowledge of vintage camera repairs and see if I couldn’t get this old Trip 35 in top working condition once again. These cameras are pretty straight-forward to work on, if you take careful steps and do a few key things that’ll make your life a lot easier.

Here are a few of the helpful resources I’ve come across for disassembling and repairing the Olympus Trip 35, plus a few notes worth keeping in mind before you go tearing into this thing:

Wobbly Lens Repair:

Flickr user Math.leduc went through the trouble of solving this one for us , even posting pictures online to help walk you through. Having just done this repair, I can feel his pain and frustration, and I have to offer him my thanks for saving me a lot of headache with this tutorial. This is one of the simpler repairs on the Trip 35, but it’s a little unsettling when you pull the camera apart in 2 pieces. It’s also a great time to replace the inner light seal between the camera body and lens unit.

Disassembly to Fix Stuck Aperture Blades/Shutter Mechanism:

I have absolutely no idea why the guy that runs the ThermoJet Microlight Stove website has a page dedicated to Trip 35 repair, but I’m not going to complain. This is an excellent step-by-step walk through of how to disassemble the lens unit to access inner lens elements, aperture blade assembly, and even the shutter unit (if you so dare). L

***NOTE: Take special care to mark the position of your front lens element and take note of how far it turns to the right (as ThermoJet Guy recommends) before you get it out of whack. This element twists when you turn the zone focusing ring, and if it gets out of place it is a really, really big pain to get it right again. ***

Refocusing the Front Lens Element:

If you’ve come to far and didn’t head the *** warning in the above post, then check out 120 Studio’s guide on refocusing the Trip 35 front lens element using wax paper, a measuring stick, and an upside down newspaper. HEED THE MANY WARNINGS. MARK YOUR LENS BEFORE DISSASSEMBLY AND PROSPER!

Complete Tear-Down and Parts Guide:

This guy Peter Vis has put together one of the most comprehensive guides to the Olympus Trip 35 that I’ve seen thus far . His posts cover everything from basic operation to detailed notes on circuitry, lens barrel assembly, and how the camera functions with its various parts and magical wizardry.

If you’re troubleshooting a problem or looking for a good place to start on your repairs research, this is it.

Modifying Shutter Speed to Stick at 1/200th

This crazy kid K. Praslowicz found a way to jam a paperclip in the Trip 35 and peg shutter speed at 1/200th of a second , thus allowing him to override the camera’s automatic setting and shoot with manual aperture settings. It’s a pretty cool mod that also kind of defeats the purpose of using a point-in-shoot, but hey whatever! Where there’s a will there’s a way I guess.

Adding Light Seals and Green Lizard Skin:

The scribes over at Lomography put together a how-to post aimed at freeing up stuck aperture blades on the Trip 35, but honestly there are other better resources online for that procedure (linked above). They gloss over some important points in that procedure, but offer a good overview of replacing light seals and applying a green lizard skin leatherette covering to the camera. Take for what it’s worth I guess.

Dealing with Light Meter and “Red Flag” Issues:

Somebody hit the panic button. The light meter is basically the heart of the Trip 35. Without it, the camera is toast. If possible you should always do a quick test of the meter before buying a Trip 35. Simply point it at bright light and push the shutter button to see if the aperture remains small (f22 is its default position) and listen to see if the shutter is fast. Next, stick it in a low-light area and do the same, these time checking for wide aperture and slower shutter. It’s not perfect but you can at least see if it’s responding to light in the right manner, although it could still prove to be inaccurate.

I noticed a few exposure errors on the first test roll through my Trip 35, but nothing to warrant too much concern Yet, once I repaired the lens wobble and reassembled the camera, I started getting the dreaded “red flag” pop up in the camera’s viewfinder regardless of the light situation. Even in bright light the camera was indicating there wasn’t sufficient light to take a photo — NOT GOOD!

While the selenium light meter on these cameras have a reputation for being pretty reliable, my research online pretty much gave my camera a death sentence — the “red flag” issue could mean your camera’s meter is dying and you’ve got a nice paperweight on your hands. That’s what I was led to believe, at least.

Yes, some light meters die and they’ll all die eventually I guess. But fortunately that wasn’t the problem in my case. I opened the camera’s top plate to take a closer look at the light meter configuration and see how it was responding using ThermoJet Guy’s details on how it should be reacting .

Confusingly enough, once I opened the camera up again, the light meter seemed to be working as-normal and was responding to different lighting scenes as expected. WTF?!? The more I fiddled with it I noticed that the meter’s needle get stuck randomly, not really hung up but sticky. It looked like the spring or magnet may have been gummed up and was hindering the needle’s movement at times. If I hit the camera body it would often jar it loose and the meter would start bouncing around again, so it seemed that at least the meter was still working.

I wasn’t prepared to open up the light meter housing (that just seems like a recipe for disaster) but with my gummy theory in mind I decided to take a calculated risk and attempt to clean the light meter, specifically where the needle comes out under the housing. Using a spray can of electronics cleaner (which shouldn’t leave any residues), I lightly doused the light meter housing, let it dry, and repeated the process 5-6 times. Slowly the meter started freeing up and behaving as intended. Crisis averted.

Now, time to burn another roll.

If you have any helpful Trip 35 repair links, insights, or other tidbits feel free to comment below. Per usual, attempt any of your own repairs at your own risk, or send it to me and I’ll fiddle with it for you.

Clay Duda is a freelance journalist and photographer. People usually pay him to write things. Here he does it for free.

Olympus Trip 35

The Olympus Trip 35 is a fully-automatic 35mm compact camera , manufactured by Olympus from 1967 [1] to 1984, during which time over ten million units were sold, [1] though this oft-quoted figure is likely to have included later plastic-bodied Olympus cameras with Trip branding, as the original Trip 35 had serial numbers going up to around 5,400,000. [2] The auto-exposure mechanism is effectively solar-powered by a selenium cell surrounding the lens, and consequently the camera runs without batteries. Until June 1978, the shutter button was silver-coloured metal. After that date, all Trips had a black plastic button.

• 1 Auto-exposure mechanism
• 3 Viewfinder

Auto-exposure mechanism

With the aperture ring set to "A", the camera operates as a program automatic with a working EV range of 8.32-17.4 at ASA 100. [3] Half-pressing the shutter-release button locks the exposure with both the aperture and shutter speed (of which there are only two, 1/40 and 1/200s) fixed by a delicate but accurate mechanism. As explained by one repair page ,

The combination of aperture and shutter speed that the exposure mechanism chooses depends on the amount of light available. The precise amount of light that triggers a change of the shutter speed is not documented in the user manual, but it is believed to be around EV 13. When brightness of EV 13 or more is detected, the Trip 35 will increase the shutter speed to 1/200 sec in preference to using a smaller aperture, and use a narrower aperture as light levels increase from there, presumably to avoid the diffraction effects that affect all 35mm cameras below f/11. [4] Below EV 13, it will use the 1/40 sec speed and widen the aperture for lower light levels. The camera will refuse to fire if there is not enough light, with a red plastic flag appearing simultaneously in the viewfinder. This mechanism makes it impossible to make the error of shooting with the lens cap in place.

When the aperture is set manually (primarily for flash photography), the shutter speed is set to 1/40th of a second. However, the meter is still active even in this "manual" mode. Setting the aperture manually merely sets the widest permissible aperture, and the auto-exposure mechanism may still choose to set a smaller aperture than this if it sees fit. [4]

Other than this, the camera offers no controls for setting exposure manually, though one can easily set exposure compensation by changing the film ASA dial to a higher or lower value.

The Trip 35 has a 40mm f/2.8 Zuiko non-interchangeable lens, with four elements in three groups. Ken Rockwell suspects this to be a front-element focusing Tessar . [5] This lens has a reputation for being extremely sharp, even in the corners; in Rockwell's tests, Costco-scanned Fuji ISO 400 print film loaded into this camera out-performed a Canon 17-40 f/4 L lens in the corners. [5]

The lens provides simple zone-focusing with 4 cute distance symbols marked on the top-left of the lens. These correspond to the real distance markings on the underside of the lens: 1 meter, 1.5 meters, 3 meters, and infinity. Filter ring is 43.5mm.

The viewfinder is an albada-type, with parallax markings for closer focusing. There is a second, very small window under this, nicknamed the "Judas window", which shows the current aperture setting and distance symbol which are on the lens barrel.

A small red flag will appear in the viewfinder if the auto-exposure mechanism decides there is not enough light and refuses to fire.

This camera's aperture blades (there are two blades) tend to be become sticky over time. Before purchasing an old Olympus Trip 35, ask the seller if the aperture is properly opening and closing at all values (f/2.8-f/22). This can be done by manually selecting each aperture value and half-pressing the shutter button. Otherwise, the lens unit would have to be disassembled and cleaned.

• ↑ 1.0 1.1 Olympus' history of EE-equipped cameras (archived)
• ↑ Serial numbers collected by the Olympus Trip Flickr group
• ↑ Specifications in the user-manual.
• ↑ 4.0 4.1 See the Trip 35 program graph , and the explanation in this thread .
• ↑ 5.0 5.1 http://www.kenrockwell.com/olympus/trip-35.htm
• Manual available from UCL
• Olympus Trip 35 group on Flickr
• A modification that allows a 1/200 shutter speed with manual aperture control
• Illustrated instructions for repairing a Trip 35
• Trip 35 in the Olympus Global History (archived)
• This is a trip at Classic Cameras by RaúlM.
• Lionel's Olympus Trip 35 page in French at 35mm-compact.com
• Olympus Trip 35 on www.collection-appareils.fr by Sylvain Halgand (in French)
• Flickr image
• Image by rick soloway
• Japanese 35mm viewfinder
• Image by Michele M. F.
• Image by Hans Jan Dürr
• Image by vincentnip
• Image by Ênio Resende

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• Classic Manual Film Cameras

Olympus Trip 35 lens repair

By a_e_daly November 15, 2007 in Classic Manual Film Cameras

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Yes, I know they're really cheap and I'd be better off buying another than

trying to fix one, but this one's in nice condition apart from this issue and

I'd like to learn another repair skill. This Trip 35 has a focusing problem

whereby the front lens element (the one that ought to move in and out as you

turn the focusing ring) seems to come unscrewed as you focus from far to near,

so that it moves out when you focus in that direction but then stays still when

you refocus back the way. You can manually screw it back in again, then the

next focusing turn will work as before, and so on.

It seems as if the front element and the focusing ring have come loose from

each other, or out of alignment so they don't stay locked together. It was

cheap enough that I'm happy to have a go at sorting this out. I see 3 tiny

screws around the edge of the front lens element. What would happen if I undid

those? Any advice or experience to share?

Link to comment

Share on other sites.

Yay! It's fixed - I think. I'll post the details here in case anyone else finds them useful. Bear in mind this fix looks and feels right, but I haven't run any film through yet.

If you loosen the 3 tiny screws described above around the foremost lens element (the ring engraved Olympus, D. Zuiko etc.), you can remove this ring - it may take some manipulation but it basically twists loose and then lifts out. (You shouldn't need to take the screws out completely). You'll see this ring has a kind of spoke sticking straight down into the camera. Once you take the ring out, the front lens element is visible and can be gently unscrewed. If you do this and lift out the lens, then look down into the space vacated while moving the focusing ring, you can see the focusing ring internally has what looks like a small C-shaped black clip which is moved back & forth by the focusing. It's clear that the end of the 'spoke' on the outer steel ring is supposed to fit into this groove so that, when that and the lens are fastened back together, the focusing ring will move it and thus turn the lens.

You'll see the lens is set in a dark matte black outer fitting. This has a tiny groove running all around the outside. The ends of the 3 tiny screws on the outer ring, once tightened, fit into this groove to hold the lens in place.

Screw the lens back in, carefully, then turn the focusing ring all the way round so that it's set at the greatest distance (i.e. the point at which the lens is fully retracted). Lower the outer ring back into place, making sure the spoke does fit into the C-shaped socket (I think this was the cause of my problem). Once it's snugly in place, tighten the 3 screws to join ring and lens. Now, when you turn the focusing ring, the lens should turn back and forth as expected. Voila.

Apologies for the non-technical language, btw. I'm sure all these things have proper names rather than 'that steel ring with the lettering on' and so forth.

Overall I'm quite pleased, this is the first repair I've done that wasn't light seal replacement. Even if the focus is off, at least I'll know where to correct it.

michael_frangos

Have you checked whether the camera can now focus correctly? Screwing the front group all the way in does not guarantee correct focus. Fixing the focus is easy enough. Remove (again) the name ring and mark the rim of the front group with a pencil any place. Take a series of pictures turning the front group a couple of rows (those on the selenium meter) at a time. Develop and check for the sharpest picture of the set. Turn the front group so that your pencil mark is in line with that point and attach the name ring... happy shooting!

charles_stobbs3

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Olympus Trip 35 – Camera Review

Josh solomon.

• October 3, 2016

As enthralling as photography can be, long days, months, and years spent shooting can wear you out. In the worst case, it can lead to a photographic malaise that can dismantle even the most well-built minds from the inside out. It can render the best shooters incapable of even the simple task of pressing a shutter button. It’s shooter’s block, our equivalent to writer’s block, and it hit me hard over the summer.

I jumped out of bed one morning full of energy, ready to take on the world with my trusty Nikon F and Leica M2. But instead of plunging into a world filled with beauty, intrigue, and possibility, I found my surroundings cold, ugly, and indifferent. The images I tried to form seemed trite and overplayed, and I soon lost confidence in my ability to make a decent picture. Even the storied reputations of my F and M2 failed to inspire me. Every time I peered through their viewfinders I saw nothing but dust in the pentaprism and emptiness between the framelines.

Sufficiently depressed, I decided to stay home and put my cameras on the shelf. And it was while I was lying face down on a pillow listening to the opening lines of Chicago’s “Hard To Say I’m Sorry” that I realized I did, in fact, need a little time away. But I didn’t need a full-on vacation from the hobby itself – no, that would be too drastic. I just needed a change from the manual cameras that sat on my shelf. I needed an easier camera, and I had a feeling one camera in particular could fit the bill – the Olympus Trip 35.

The Olympus Trip 35 is a camera I’d heard a lot about but had never tried myself. Its reputation for ease of use and high quality seemed the perfect cure for my shooter’s block. And if the Trip 35 was the prescription, the Pasadena Camera Show was the pharmacy. There I found a beautiful Trip 35 for an absurdly low price, bought it, and quickly threw it in my bag.

One would think the Olympus Trip 35 would seem out of place next to legendary cameras like the aforementioned Nikon and Leica, but it actually fits right in. This camera, although not as capable as the other two, holds an equally lofty place in photographic history. Just as the F and the M defined the SLR and rangefinder genres respectively, the Trip 35 defined the point-and-shoot game. More impressive still, the Trip 35 actually outsold the Nikon F and the Leica M2 by millions. Take that, fanboys.

Olympus achieved these massive numbers by appealing to the casual shooter rather than pro photographers, specifically focusing on the new generation of moneyed vacationers. Racing from landmark to landmark and airport to airport, these sightseers simply lacked the time and interest needed to learn the boring particulars of photography required to operate a camera. Instead, they required a camera that was simple to use, but sophisticated enough to beautifully capture their memories.

Good design marries aesthetics to functionality, and the the camera gods couldn’t have picked a better company to bring the Trip 35 to life. Olympus’ design house, fresh off the ingenious half-frame Pen F, struck gold again with the Trip. The design is classic Olympus; clean-cut lines and an impossibly small form factor, the Trip wastes no time and gets straight to the point. It’s as well designed as any machine of its day, more impactful when we recall that the Trip came of age in an era where cameras were still fully mechanical, save for the occasional battery powered light meter. Automation seemed a distant (and expensive) fantasy, so when Olympus created a genuine auto-exposure camera out of primitive nuts and bolts, the world took notice. This was in no uncertain terms an engineering miracle.

The Trip 35 accomplishes this sorcery by determining the amount of light that enters a Selenium photo cell surrounding the lens, and choosing a correct aperture based on this reading. The camera then chooses a shutter speed of either a 1/200th or 1/40th of a second and we get a perfect exposure. When the camera’s incapable of making an acceptable exposure, a little red flag shows up in the viewfinder and the shutter locks out. The magic of this system is that it takes all exposure-related worry out of our minds. We don’t have to agonize about aperture, shutter speed, or even battery life, a godsend for vacationers and anxious photo geeks.

But before we experience it, it’s quite easy to question the Trip 35’s simplicity. After all, how accurate could a camera this old and primitive be? And could the lens be good enough for our 21st century eyes? As I drove home from the camera show, my new Trip in the passenger seat next to me, these questions rolled through my mind. I really needed this camera to be decent, if I was to pull out of my photographic death spiral.

Just then, I received a text message from my sister. Can you pick up some pork buns in chinatown? thx. With this, I had my mission; buy some pork buns, shoot the Trip, and see if this ancient camera could walk the walk.

The first thing I noticed was its build quality. Comprised of metal and plastic, the Trip 35 is solid, but never heavy; lightweight, but never flimsy. The only disappointing aspect of the camera’s feel is its film advance wheel. A dinky plastic affair reminiscent of disposable cameras, this lackluster cog is forgivable when we remember that the Trip was built to be a consumer-level camera.

Peering through the viewfinder showed bright frame-lines with tick marks both for up-close shots and for landscape shots. These are helpful in view of the Trip’s lack of automatic parallax correction. Having used fancy Leica , Nikon , and Contax rangefinders renowned for brightness and clarity, the Trip’s viewfinder beats most of them. Its relative simplicity is a nice change from the cluttered and overly complex viewfinders of other machines. The Trip 35 also features a small window in the bottom right of the VF (affectionately dubbed the “Judas Window” by Trip 35 disciples) which shows both the chosen aperture and exposure setting on the camera.

So far, so good. But how was I to determine focus? I quickly realized that the Trip’s a scale-focus camera, which is not ideal for accuracy. But before I started feeling like Olympus left me all alone and helpless, I realized that they were kind enough to provide some handy distance-measuring tools. Settings along the lens barrel show a picture of one person for portraits, two people for pictures of two people, three people for group pictures, and a mountain symbol for everything in the distance, including mountains. I stopped hyperventilating, and realized that, for a point-and-shoot camera, this is more than enough. And for all you nitpickers, Olympus also included precise distance measurements in both meters and feet on the underside of the lens. Phew.

Once shooting the Trip started to shine, and I was easily able to focus on exactly what matters most in photography – composition. From the first frame I found myself joyfully snapping away at whatever tickled my fancy, even though I didn’t know what aperture values and shutter speeds the Trip 35 was choosing. Frankly, I didn’t give a damn. All that mattered to me was finding different angles, new ways to play with light, and how to capture Chinatown’s unique charm. It felt like with each and every frame, the Trip was dissolving my shooter’s block more and more, and I wanted to just keep shooting.

So the little Olympus and I danced through Chinatown’s colorful landscape, happily snapping away. In no uncertain terms, it was the most fun I’d ever had with a camera. Even though the heat of the afternoon beat on my shoulders and the sweat sizzled on my brow, the Trip 35 and I ran through the city without a care in the world. The streets led us to the door of a steamy Chinese restaurant, then a pile of steaming pork buns, then back to the equally steamy interior of my car. I didn’t care how long the journey took or how much fluid I lost in that heatwave. It seemed like I sweated out my shooter’s block, and I eagerly raced home to deliver the buns, and develop the film.

But something was nagging me about the camera the entire way home; the focus issue. Had I gotten the focus correct for every shot? How was I to trust those markings? How could I possibly live without a focusing aid? Anxiety began to rear its head again and I had to stop myself from speeding over to a one-hour photo lab to assuage my fears. I gripped the steering wheel tight and told myself to trust the Trip. Besides, I still had a job to do. These pork buns weren’t going to deliver themselves.

After delivering and munching on said pork buns with my contented sibling, I decided to get the roll developed and scanned. My fears were partially founded. Some of the shots, especially photos of close subjects or darker scenes, came back fuzzy due to a combination of my poor distance estimation and the nature of the Trip’s exposure and focus systems. While the Trip automatically helps achieve sharp focus by selecting a smaller aperture for greater depth-of-field, this is only possible in bright light. As things get dark, the ability to shoot at a smaller aperture quickly disappears. In these situations it can be really difficult to nail correct focus. One minor consequence of this is that shooters with an affinity for portraiture and those sweet bokeh balls will probably be disappointed by this camera.

But expecting creamy bokeh and close range performance from the Trip 35 (or most point-and-shoots for that matter) is like expecting a ‘93 Honda Civic to outpace a Tesla Model S. It just won’t happen, and trying will lead to frustration. But just like that Honda, if you regard the Trip 35 as a reliable machine good for an occasional joyride, it will never disappoint. The Trip 35 is capable of a great many things , but we must be careful to recognize and respect its own limits.

When we get the focus right, the Trip’s fantastic 40mm F/2.8 Zuiko lens delivers in spades. The lens is a front-focusing Tessar type lens, which means that it’s very simple and very sharp, and it retains this sharpness edge to edge without chromatic aberration, spherical aberration, or any kind of distortion due to its simple optical formula and Olympus’s masterful execution. The lens’ quality even overcame the limitations of expired film, and ended up giving me some great results.

For whom is this camera best suited? First and foremost, the Trip 35 might just be the perfect camera for the casual photophile. Olympus built this camera to document the daily adventures of the everyman, and the Trip does this beautifully. And for experienced shooters, the Trip 35 can be a great way to break free of shooter’s block, or inject our shooting with something fun and carefree. It emphasizes the art of composition rather than the cold calculations of exposure, but even more importantly, it reminds us to relax, have a pork bun, and not take ourselves too seriously.

Want to try the Trip 35 for yourself?

Buy it on ebay, buy it on amazon, shop b&h photo’s vintage gear, follow casual photophile on facebook and instagram.

[ Some of the links in this article will direct users to our affiliates at B&H Photo , Amazon , and eBay . By purchasing anything using these links, Casual Photophile may receive a small commission at no additional charge to you. This helps Casual Photophile produce the content we produce. Many thanks for your support. ]

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• Camera Review
• film camera
• olympus Trip

Josh Solomon is a freelance writer and touring bassist living in Los Angeles. He has an affinity for all things analog. When not onstage, you can find him roaming around Southern California shooting film and humming a tune.

29 comments

Very nicely done.

Great review of the Trip! This is the camera that lured me away from Lomography and the whole low-fi aesthetic. While the metering system is somewhat primitive and the zone focusing can be imprecise, especially in low light, it’s obvious that all the money and work went into the lens. In the right circumstances it’s absolutely tack sharp. Once I started getting sharp images from my Trip, the Lomo LC-A+ and the Holga started looking a lot less appealing.

The Trip definitely has some big limitations but on its own terms it’s a great camera.

Here’s my Trip album on Flickr to get an idea.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/21156896@N07/sets/72157645739914959

Thanks for adding your Flickr album. It’s great for people to be able to see what these cameras can do in varied situations.

Thanks so much! Those images are fantastic; they really showcase what that lens can do. Funny you mention the LC-A+… ?

Thanks! The LC-A+ was the camera that got me back into using film after an extended dalliance with digital photography. I used it really heavily for about 2 years before becoming curious about other cameras. The fact that the Lomo is also a zone focuser made it very easy for me to switch to the Trip and the XA2.

Great write up Josh, and really nice album Neilson! I had to do a double take on some of those shots, especially the close up portraits, realizing that you had used a Trip.

I agree, what a great review and some fine shots on that flickr gallery. I’ve just bought my 50th Olympus Trip 35 and am steadily rebuilding them from head to toe. I’ve posted some reviews and other helpful reviews on my site https://trip35.co/

Great pictures from the Trip. You got to love these little cameras!

The Trip 35 was *made* for landscapes and group photos in good light outside. It’s really dang good for those things. For everything else, not so much! But like you, on a day when I’m just out and about shooting stuff, I find the Trip 35 to be big fun.

My last outing with my Trip 35: https://blog.jimgrey.net/2015/04/20/olympus-trip-35-revisited/

If I ever get on an airplane again I think I’ll be bringing this camera… We’ll see. Josh and your post have helped convince me. Thanks for sharing.

Great review of one of my favourite cameras and one of the best free cameras I’ve ever been given. The quality you can get from this little package has always astounded me, this is an example taken with just bog standard Poundland special film (Agfa Vista 200) https://the6millionpman.wordpress.com/2016/09/30/cardiff-bay-sunset-3/

And yet again I confess to being an Olympus fanboy.

Beautiful colors and range on that.

Great article Josh, and thanks for publishing it James. There wasn’t a link, but I started the Olympus Trip 35 users group on Facebook, here is the link. P.S. A few famous photogrpaphers in the group.

http://www.facebook.com/groups/OlympusTrip35

Hey my friend! Thanks for commenting. We did include a link there, it’s in the third to last paragraph where it says the Trip is “capable…” etc.

And for anyone down here in the comments, do check out the FB group. Amazing talent there shooting with all kinds of Trips.

The Trip Flickr group is worth checking out too. Lots of good stuff there.

https://flic.kr/g/5jsssh

Great write-up! I have three of these and, while I’m by no means a great photographer, I do love the pick-up-and-go nature of the Trip 35. For those who are interested, I spent an entire day refocusing the lens on one of mine;

https://teeritz.blogspot.com.au/2014/04/re-focusing-lens-on-olympus-trip.html

Almost drove me nuts!

That post is scary. You’re a brave man.

Bought a Trip after reading a recommendation by Ken Rockwell. At the time I thought I only ever needed one camera – an FE – and I had one. However, the Trip is great for other things. As you say, the pictures are so sharp. And its so easy to use.

I love my Trip 35. Fantastically sharp lens and incredibly easy to use! The zone focusing took a bit getting used to and I do still occasionally misfocus, but when that happens I embrace my inner William Klein. Also, my copy came with a lens cap and zipped up in a bag so the selenium is not at all worn out and the AE is spot-on. I actually trust shooting slide film in this camera more than any of my all-manual cameras!

Hi! Thank you so much. I am seriously considering to buy a Trip. I want to go traveling and bring a good camera. Do you think this one will do? And some people say it’s not really for taking photo’s in the dark/on parties. Are they right?

Thanks again 🙂

Hey Nikki! The Trip is the perfect camera for travel and casual outdoor shooting IMO, but it does suffer in low light without a flash. A little compact flash will help, and it does have a manual aperture override for accurate flash exposures.

If you’re going to be spending lots of time indoors I would suggest either picking up a cheap P&S with a built in flash, or upgrading entirely to a compact SLR/fixed-lens rangefinder with a fast (f/2 and under) lens for low-light shooting without a flash. Hope this helps!

Hello Nikki, I am the Admin of the Olympus Trips 35 Users Group, I recommend you join to get advice, and there are trustworthy sellers in the group.

See the website link below my comment

I’ve recently picked up aTrip 35 and have been very pleasantly surprised by the ease of use and picture quality. I even tried some low light close shots and had better results than I expected. Tip #1: use 400 speed film to increase versatility. You get more depth of field in any situation and therefore more focussing accuracy. You will also hold off the “red flag” for a stop or two. Tip #2: learn how to guesstimate the zone distances as accurately as possible. If you’re shooting close-up in lower light try to nail the actual distance e.g. set the lens on 1 meter and try to be 1 meter away. Use a tape measure at first so you can see what the distances look like. As the light falls or distances get closer then more accuracy is required from the photographer. Tip #3: remember that you can press the shutter button half way down to lock the exposure. Meter off a mid-tone then recompose and shoot. This will help with back lighting and other tricky light. Tip #4: try to shoot within the limits of the design and you will get good results. The Trip 35 was meant for family holidays and a whimsical approach to photography. If you require critical focussing or metering the Trip was never really designed for that. Enjoy!

Hi, Josh. Great writing. I enjoyed reading your review and laughed so much at the pork bun adventure! Thanks!

Thirty-seven years of shooting film and the Trip 35 was a camera I’d always ignored for being ‘too simple’. I spotted one in a local charity shop last week that was cased, boxed and in lovely condition and I got it for next to nothing. I ran half a roll of FT-12 ASA50 cinema film through and the results were far better than I expected. I started out on Olympus all those years ago (still use them) but I’m a bit ashamed of myself for ignoring this little gem. My 8 year old is just starting to take an interest in photography and this is going to be ideal for her.

Thanks for a great review and for pointing out a couple of little features I hadn’t spotted.

Quick pedantic note: In virtually everything I’ve seen online about the Trip 35, there’s one thing that nobody ever seems to say:

The Trip 35 is essentially the full-frame version of the earlier half-frame Pen EES and EES-2.

I had an EES-2 and it was a great shooter for an inexpensive camera. It worked exactly the same way as the Trip: the selenium meter around the lens chose one of two shutter speeds or raised a red flag if there wasn’t sufficient light; it had a four-icon zone focus lens; there was one manual speed for flash along with adjustable f-stops when not in Auto. Of course, the Trip had a different focal length lens to produce a full-frame image, but I suspect it’s of a very similar design to the EES-2’s. And note that the Trip 35’s top plate includes the EES-2’s hot shoe, along with the back cover/rewind knob from the Pen series (and frame counter from the Pen F series), and the viewfinder is essentially the same as the EES-2’s.

My point is: the Trip 35’s super-successful design wasn’t actually new, the camera was scaled up from the already successful Pen EES series.

Thank you… Now I’m on my way for fun an Mindfulness 🙂 A very brilliant text who give me interests and energy. Thank you 🙂

Just bought one, trying it out tomorrow. I would suggest to buy a tripod and a self-release cord, set it to A and just set for the distance. I used to carry a 110 film camera back in 1977 and was taught photography back in 1981 from a WW2 vet. Warhol used a Pentax 35afm because he could set a high iso without flash.

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Five cheap (but very good) film cameras you can buy today, new york city and the half-frame 35mm olympus pen d, the cinematic point and shoot – minolta p’s (freedom vista) review.

• Olympus Manuals
• Digital Camera
• Repair manual

Olympus 35 DC Repair Manual

• page of 80 Go / 80

Table of Contents

Troubleshooting.

• Symbols Meaning
• Exploded Views
• Outline of the Product
• BLC (Black Light Control) Button
• BLC Circuit (Exposure Correction)
• Synchro Contact
• BF (Bulb Flash) Contact
• Synchro Circuit (BF/EF Selector)
• Synchro Circuit Diagram
• FM (Flashmatic) Circuit
• FM Circuit Diagram
• Information Finder
• Inspection Standard Table
• Disassembly Procedure
• Demounting of the Upper Plate
• Demounting of Range Finder
• Demounting of Guide Base Plate/Gno Circuit Board/Lens Barrel
• Disassembly of Shutter
• Exposure Meter and Relateds Troubleshooting
• Flashmatic and Relateds Troubleshooting
• Range Finder and Relateds Troubleshooting
• Winding and Relateds Troubleshooting
• Shutter and Relateds Troubleshooting
• Lens and Relateds Troubleshooting
• Power Supply and Relateds Troubleshooting
• Others Troubleshooting
• Shutter Not Released in AUTO Mode
• EE Accuracy Plus or Minus
• EE Accuracy Check Points
• EE Accuracy Tending to Extreme Plus or Minus
• EE Accuracy Plus or Minus (Continued)
• No Change in the Exposure Quantity Even Upon the BLC Button Depressed
• Shutter Not Released in FM (Flashmatic) Mode
• No Change in FM Accuracy Even Upon GNO Varied in FM Mode
• Conductive in EF, but Not in BF
• No Conduction at the Shoe in both EF and BF
• Over- or Underexposure at Close Distance or Far Distance in both EF and BF
• Vertical Displacement
• Lateral Displacement at Infinity
• Inoperative Range Finder
• Displacement at Close Distance
• Winding Impossible (Hooked)
• Winding with Rattle, Unevenness and Squeak
• Sector Inoperative (Shutter and Relateds)
• Electronic Flash or Bulb Flashes Upon Winding
• Defective Focusing
• Battery Exhausted in Short Period
• Arrangement of the Lead Wires Within the Main Body and the F Main Body
• Each Leading Wire Combining Position and Direction
• Arrangement of the Lead Wires on the Upper Side of the F Main Body
• Handling of each Contact
• How to Release the Shutter Without the Battery
• Locational Relation between the Pointer Needle and the Needle Cam in Brightness Indication
• When the Helocoid Is Mistakenly Removed
• 961 Helicoid Dimensions
• How to Fully Open the Sector
• Relation between the Self-Timer and the Release
• Release Plate Operatig Direction
• Operation Range of the Self-Timer
• Precautions on Tentative Winding
• Position of the Needle Receiver after EE Adjustment
• LEE-12 Circuit Diagram
• Strap Ring Breakage
• Adjustment of Battery Checker
• Circuit Board Assembly CC1092 Diagram
• Adjustment of Battery Checker - Procedure
• Mounting of each Part
• LEE-12 Actual Wiring Diagram
• Use of IC in Place of Conventional Printed Board for LEE-12 Battery Checker
• Replacement of the Printed Board by the IC
• Parts Where Oil, Grease, Etc. Should be Used
• Molykote Type U Diagram
• Aron Alpha Diagram
• Photolub 023P Diagram
• White/Black Araldite Diagrams
• EP Grease Diagram
• Pliobond Diagram
• Loctive AV Diagram
• List of Changed Parts

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Quick Links

• 2 Symbols Meaning
• 3 Parts List
• 4 Exploded Views
• 5 Blc (Black Light Control) Button
• Download this manual
• Troubleshooting 28
• Range Finder and Relateds Troubleshooting 29
• Winding and Relateds Troubleshooting 30
• Others Troubleshooting 31

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