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Home / Pool Repairs / Equipment Repairs / 5-Step Hayward Pool Filter Repairs

5-Step Hayward Pool Filter Repairs

5-Step Hayward Pool Filter Repairs

Making your own pool filter repairs is the subject of today’s post. I’ve outlined the 12 most common repairs that you may need to do at some point to your Hayward filter or to any pool filter. Simple hand tools are all that’s required to maintain and repair a Hayward pool filter, along with a few Hayward filter parts.

Hayward Sand Filter Repairs

Sand filter sand replacement

Sand Replacement

Sand filter lateral replacement

Lateral Replacement

Changing the filter sand

Replace your filter sand every five-seven years or sooner if your filter is undersized or if it has cleaned up a few algae blooms. We have an entire “How To Change Pool Filter Sand” post about how to change pool filter sand, but here’s a five-step summary.

  • Drain the tank by removing the drain cap.
  • Remove the top-mounted valve or dome.
  • Scoop out sand or use a wet/dry vac to remove.
  • Pour in new #20 silica sand, labeled pool filter sand.
  • Replace valve or dome securely, start up filter on rinse.

Replacing the lateral

Replace your laterals every 10 years. When one cracks, replace the entire set of laterals. If sand begins to pour into your pool, the usual cause is one or more broken laterals, or a cracked standpipe. Here’s how to fix it in five steps.

  • Drain tank and remove sand, as described above.
  • Fold up the laterals vertically or unscrew threaded laterals from hub.
  • Snap in or screw in your new sand filter laterals.
  • Cap the standpipe and pour the sand back in, or use new sand.

Hayward Multiport Valve Repairs

Valve change

Valve Change

Spider gasket change

Spider Gasket Change

Cracked valve body

Cracked Valve Body

Valve change

If your multiport valve begins to leak or the handle loses tension, you could repair it with a new key assembly or a new spider gasket, or you could just replace the entire valve in just five steps.

  • Cut pipes with hacksaw, leaving enough pipe to reconnect.
  • Unclamp valve from tank, wiggle and pull up to remove.
  • Lube O-ring and push new valve on standpipe; clamp tightly.
  • Wrap threads four times with Teflon; screw hand tight, plus 1-1/4 turn.
  • Rejoin pipes with coupling or union; using PVC primer and glue.

Spider gasket change

Losing water out of the backwash line? Remove the top of the multiport valve and inspect the spiderweb style gasket. If it’s twisted, broken or worn, here’s how to replace it, five-step style.

  • Remove six screws around valve lid and pull out key assembly.
  • Use small flathead screwdriver to remove all of the old gasket.
  • Place small dabs of super glue or silicone in the grooves.
  • Press in new gasket, wipe off any excess silicone.
  • Reassemble by replacing key assembly in the proper orientation.

Cracked valve body

If there is a small crack around where the pipes screw into the valve ports or where the pressure gauge screws in, these were overtightened or had too many layers of Teflon tape (use three-four layers over clean threads).

  • Obtain Super Glue or a liquid two-part epoxy, like Plast-Aid ®.
  • Cut pipe on cracked port, or remove gauge and clean threads.
  • Thread pipe or gauge into hole to expand crack to its widest.
  • Fill expanded crack full of Super Glue or liquid epoxy.
  • Quickly remove pipe or gauge; allow glue or epoxy to set up.

Hayward Cartride Filter Repairs

Leaking pipe connections

Leaking Pipe Connections

Loose filter clamp

Loose Filter Clamp

Cracked filter tank

Cracked Filter Tank

Leaking pipe connections

If your filter is leaking where the pipes come in and out, inspect for cracks around where the pipes screw in. Fill with epoxy as described above. If leaking around the pipes, replace them in five steps.

  • Cut leaking PVC pipe(s), leaving 2 inches of clear pipe to reconnect.
  • Unthread the pipe(s) from the filter in/out port.
  • Wrap new male threaded adapter with four layers of Teflon tape.
  • Screw new MTA fittings into filter body, hand tight, plus 1-1/4 turns.
  •  Rejoin with pipe, a coupling or union, and PVC primer and glue.

Loose filter clamp

For your safety’s sake, when you start up the filter, if the belly band holding the tank halves together or holding the multiport valve is leaking, shut off the pump immediately and take these five steps.

  • Remove clamp band and top filter half completely.
  • Remove belly band O-ring and wipe clean with paper towel.
  • Replace tank O-ring and apply a thin layer of pool lube.
  • Replace lid and tighten up clamp band as tight as it will go.
  • If it still leaks, loosen clamp band, reposition it, and retighten.

Cracked filter tank

If your filter tank has a pinhole leak or a full-blown crack, the only repair to make it to replace the filter tank. For sand filters or older stainless steel tanks, it’s not cheaper to buy an entire new filter , but depending on the age, filter tanks or tank halves can cost 50-80 percent of the cost of a new filter.

Hayward D.E. Filter Repairs

D.E. filter grid replacement

Grid Replacement

D.E. manifold replacement

Manifold Replacement

D.E. finger replacement

Finger Replacement

D.E. filter grid replacement

Every 10 years or so, D.E. filter grid fabric starts to break down and develop holes or rips. When one goes, the others will soon follow. We wrote a post with great pictures on how to change out D.E. filter grids , but here’s the five-step executive summary.

  • Remove wing nuts on top of manifold to disassemble completely.
  • Place the manifold upside-down on two bricks facing upward.
  • Start with the partial grid and push all of the grids into the manifold.
  • Place the bottom spreader on top and work it between the grids.
  • Replace the thru-bolts and tighten wing nuts, pulling assembly tight.

D.E. manifold replacement

Another cause of D.E. powder spilling into the pool is a cracked top manifold, or missing air screen or sock. Follow the instructions above for changing D.E. grids to replace the manifold.

D.E. finger replacement

If you have a Perflex D.E. Filter, you don’t have filter grids, you have Flex Tubes , aka fingers. Like filter grids, these deteriorate over time. You can replace just a few if needed, or buy the entire filter nest assembly.

  • Remove the nuts and bolts around the top and bump handle pins.
  • Remove filter lid, then lift out the entire nest assembly.
  • Slide off the tube sheet top and pull up the damaged flex tubes.
  • Push the new fingers in place snugly; replace tube sheet top.
  • With nest assembly in place, secure the filter top and bump handle.

Filter systems are under pressure and can explode or rupture if clamp bands are not properly installed, or if valves after the filter are closed or pipes plugged while the pump is running. Open the air bleeder and all return lines before restarting the pump!

Other Filter Problems

More questions about Hayward filter repairs

1. My filter needs cleaning or backwashing too often

When the filter is brand new, one might expect a filter cycle to last 30 days or longer between cleanings. As time goes by, the filter media (DE powder, filter sand, or the filter cartridge) breaks down and or clogs up, and may indicate that it’s time to change the filter media. If you find yourself having to backwash your filter every week, you probably need to replace the filter media, assuming that your filter is properly sized.

Generally speaking, filter sand will last 5-7 years before the sharp edges become rounded, resulting in less effective filtration. D.E. filter grids can last longer, seven-nine years before the fabric breaks down and develops holes. And your pool filter cartridges will only last two-four years, depending on the work it has been asked to do. Eventually, all filter media will need a replacement, and a good indicator of when to change it is the length of your filter cycle.

2. My filter is not keeping my pool water clean and clear

This is a bit of a trick question, as it may not be the filter that is to blame. Are you running the pump long enough during the day? Is the sanitizer level correct? Are the pump and skimmer baskets clean? Is the water chemically balanced? And the biggest question of all: Is the filter properly sized? If the answer to all these questions is yes, refer to pool filter problem #1 above. The filter media may need to be changed.

Also make note of any other modifications made to the system recently. Were valves, chlorinators, heaters, or other items added to the filter system? Has a larger (or  smaller) pool pump been installed? Has the plumbing been connected to the filter correctly? It’s not backward, is it?

3. Pool filter pressure is too high (or too low)

Pool filter pressure gauges are an inexact instrument, let’s establish that right now. They are also known to fail every 5-10 years. It should return to zero when the pump shuts off. Sometimes the needle is stuck on a bent dial face, they can clog up, or they just fall apart internally.

If your filter pressure is lower than normal, this indicates that there is an obstruction or blockage before the filter. Check for a clogged pump basket or pump impeller. If your filter pressure gauge is higher than normal, this indicates a blockage at or beyond the pool filter. Check for a clogged filter, partially closed return valve or obstruction inside of a pool heater or a return line.

Make your own filter repairs with our factory fresh, original Hayward pool filter parts , shipped fast from our nine parts distribution centers around the country. Besides Hayward parts, we carry filter parts for 20 other brands, old and new!

swim pro voyager lock ring removal

Related Posts

Swimming pool o-rings, pool pump problems – repair or replace, pool troubleshooting – use your senses, 210 thoughts on “ 5-step hayward pool filter repairs ”.

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Hi Davy I have a Hayward star clear plus. My pool keeps losing water (recently dropped 3 inches in 36 hours). I have check by touch for leaking from the intake and outflow pipes from the filter tank. The water appears to be coming directly from UNDER the filter housing (not the drain plug). The concrete UNDER the filter housing is always wet and like I said my water levels drop very quickly especially if the pump runs for more than 6 hours a day. Any guesses?

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Hi Janet, at that rate of water loss, it is most likely not the filter. Your filter may be leaking a little, or it may be condensation. But 3 inches in 36 hours would be a small stream of water flowing, almost gushing, not just wet. There could be a crack in the filter housing, however, pull out the cartridge to look, but I suspect there is another leak, perhaps more than one. If the pool loses more water when the pump is running, and almost nothing if the pump is off and lines plugged, then it most surely is in the plumbing or filter system.

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have a swim pro cartridge filter and the gauge on top is full of condensation. can it be taken apart and resealed? it seems to be working just can’t hardly read it.

Hi Carl, I suppose it could, although I have never attempted to, we just normally replace them if unreadable. Or maybe if you drill a small hole near the top of the dial face cover, perhaps (?) the condensation will not form, but escape

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Is there anyway to seal A leak on the actual outside top part of a Hayward pool filter? It developed cracks near the top and water now just pours out like a fountain….

Bo, not in my experience, no, and I’ve tried. It’s not possible to seal, with exception to pinhole leaks that can be drilled out and a bolt with large rubber gaskets and washers on both sides, but even then it may not work. You could do something with JB Weld, but it will only slow the leak, and eventually fail, and it could rupture in the middle of the night and drain half the pool, or even worse, injure a person standing nearby. Best repair is to replace the tank, although buying the entire filter is often cheaper.

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Would like to know if this is a simple fix or not. When I turn on my Hayward Sand Filter,it starts leaking from the top. It has done this in the past,but the water seepage stopped. It now flows out continually. Is it just a sealing issue?

Hi Joe, if you are talking about leakage around the valve handle, there are two small o-rings on the stem of the diverter (aka rotor), where the stem passes thru the lid/cover. If you are talking about a leak around the cover, there is a large o-ring, and if you are talking about leaking at the flange where the valve connects to the tank, that is another large o-ring. So, most likely you have an o-ring issue. The large o-rings are not complicated, but the small stem o-rings are harder to get to, but not impossible, you just have to knock out the pin holding on the handle, and this is done by pushing down on the handle, while using a small Phillips head and hammer to knock out the pin (you may need a hand/helper). Then you remove the 6 screws and pry up the lid from the valve body, to expose the o-rings. Or you can just buy the entire lid/cover/handle/rotor assembly, known as the Key assembly.

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I have a 2 year old Hayward cartridge filter that all worked great. This year when I try to remove the top to get to the cartridge it’s almost impossible to remove. It doesn’t have anything to do with air or water pressure but the threads seem to be binding. Is there a lubricant or something to put on the threads to solve this problem It happened to my old filter also.

Yes, you can put pool lube on the threads, Magic Lube or something, that will help. To remove it, try a dull chisel and hammer, or make a large strap wrench, or get some help from some strong person with big hands.

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Hi, I have a Hayward sand filter and have cracked two drain caps in a matter of weeks. What might be happening here?

Not sure about that one. Is the pressure very high? Is the multiport valve being turned while the pump is running? (should not be) Are the return side valves being closed suddenly to allow pressure to build up? Not a common problem, at all… stumped.

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I have a Hayward variflo xl valve on my sand filter. I just replaced valve 2 years ago. When I opened my pool this year I noticed on filter it was putting water into my waste hose. Now I try to backwash and it does not backwash at all. I replaced everything internal to sand filter 2 years ago. Any ideas why it will not backwash?

Hi Bobby, but it runs fine on the Filter setting? Normal pressure, or same as last year? That would be very unusual, either the sand is clogged or gunked up, or the multiport valve has some issues with the spider gasket or the rotor/diverter. Loosen all of the screws on top of the cover, and you can pry up the lid, and pull up the handle, to have a look inside the valve. For the sand, try a Sand Filter Cleaner, or pull of the valve and irrigate the sand with a garden hose, pusshing it deep into the sand and letting the tank overflow.

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We just opened our pool (Hayward sand filter) and the skimmer basket has suction for a few moments then the pressure drops to 0 and the jet pushes a small amount of water but very little. The about a min later the suction starts and stops again. We backwashes, made sure to restart to pump fully filled but it keeps doing the same thing. Any suggestions?

Hi Melissa, the water level is high enough? Dumb question, but gotta ask. Is the pump lid on, very tight? Is the pipe that comes into the pump, are the threads wrapped in Teflon tape? Any leaks when the pump is off? Look for an area, in front of the pump, where air could be entering the pump.

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Dear Davy, We have a SWIMPRO sand filter. It has a drain pipe that is usually covered with a screw on cap. This year, we had to buy a new cap because it was cracked. When we tried to put it on, we found the drain pipe end is stripped and the cap won’t stay on. We were told to apply epoxy to keep it on and when it is time to drain it at the end of the season to just use a tube to aspirate the water out.Is this good advice?

If you cannot get all of the water out of the tank, it will freeze and could crack the laterals. I’m not sure what ‘aspirate’ is lol, is that like a siphon? Or is that to blow it out with air, during winterization? That may work effectively, or get 98% of the water out, which should be enough. Some Teflon tape on the threads, with a small amount of silicone on the cap threads may be enough to seal, yet still be removable.

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We have a leaking hayward s200 filter. Its leaking somewhere low and out of site. Does the o-ring where the drain tube screws in ever leak, or is it more likely the housing is cracked. It gets extremely cold here in winter

Hi John, taking a look at the schematic here… oh my gosh, what a design! Yes, the o-ring would be a prime suspect, on the end of the drain tube. O-ring O-27 is used. It could also be a crack in the elbow, but start with the $3 o-ring.

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My filter always runs water out of the waste line, every cycle?

That usually means that the spider gasket has gone bad. If you remove all of the screws/nuts around the lid, you can pry up the valve lid and inspect the wagon wheel shaped gasket.

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I opened my pool today, I have the DE filter and I am noticing that every hour or so, or every hour and a half the pressure is above 20 and I need to pump it. I only connected everything only today and I cleaned it before putting it away last year. I do remember now that last year I remember towards the end I was having the same issue. Would could be the problem and what do you recommend I do Thank you

Abe, the filter fingers in your Perflex DE filter are clogged with scale and oils. Remove the nest assembly and soak in a 5-gal bucket with DE Filter Cleaner chemical added. In lieu of DE Filter Cleaner, soak first in a 10% acid solution, rinse well and then soak in a TSP solution, rinse well, and recharge the filter with the required amount of DE powder, remembering that 1 lb of DE powder is not 16 oz of dry measure, but 32 oz dry measure.

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We have a Haywood Vari-flo x1 valve. Always have 15-18 psi on filter. Backwash and rinse work great. Blew vacuum line, filled with water and when I switch to Waste Out I lose all pressure and cannot vacuum. Pressure drops to 2-4 psi without even hooking up vacuum hose

Waste will not show much pressure, because the water is not passing thru the filter. Be sure the vacuum hose is completely primed or full of water, and be sure that the pump lid is on very tight. If still an issue, check for an air leak on the pipe coming into the pump.

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I can’t unscrew the clear cover to my filter to clean out the basket. I have Jacks 327 multilube to put on it but I can’t unscrew it and don’t want to break it. Any ideas or tricks??

Randy, most threaded pump lids have some raised ends, or a loop handle, or some shape that you can insert a rod, long screwdriver or a thin board, to use for leverage.

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If you use gravel and sand do you put the gravel in the bottom and the sand on top of the gravel? Also do the slotted openings in the laterals face up or down or doesn’t it matter?

Hi Dan, gravel would be added to just barely cover the laterals. Then Filter Sand. I like to face laterals down, but not sure if it matters much.

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I just cleaned the pool filter in my in ground pool. I do not have a sand filter just a TriStar Hayward fpump. I opened up the pump, took out the filters and cleaned them, put them back. Now do I have to put water in the pump tank? I will mention that I am a recent widow, I called a pool guy to come help which he never showed so I am doing this by myself. Can you help please

Hi Peggy, sounds like you have a cartridge filter. After cleaning the cartridges, replacing them, and securely clamping the tank back together, you don’t normally have to fill the pump basket full of water, it should still be half-full, which is enough to start the system again. It’s a good idea to open the air relief on top of any filter first, before starting the pump, and letting the air push out until it starts to spray water, then closing the air relief valve or knob. If the pump does not catch prime and start pumping water within 60 seconds, shut off the pump and lug over a bucket of pool water, or drag over the garden hose, and fill the pump with water, then replace the pump lid (very tightly), and start the pump again. Be sure the water level in the pool is mid-tile also.

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The DE filter grids in my old Purex Triton FNSP 60 filter (now Pentaire I think) don’t seem to last more than three or four years. The internal plastic skeletons in the grids seem to break and eventually tear the grid fabric as well. Could this be caused by adding too much DE? I tend to be lax on backwashing the filter, but I do diassemble and wash all the grids twice a year.

Also, I keep my Kreepy Krauley pool vacuum attached at all times. With newly cleaned grids and six pounds of new DE, my filter pressure gage reads nearly zero with the vacuum attached and just under 10 psi with the vaccuum detached. Are these readings normal?

The crushed grids, that is unusual, is the pool pump too large for the filter? It can also be from not backwashing, if the pressure gets high for extended periods. 10 psi is normal for most filter systems. When the Kreepy is connected, the psi going to zero is due to the vacuum pressure, which could also damage the grids, or collapse them in the way you describe. Maybe the Kreepy should not be running all the time, but just a few days per week. Bumping the filter is a good alternative to a full backwash. A bump is just a short, 15-second backwash, stopped right as you see DE powder starting to exit the filter. Do it twice, going back to filter position in between. It resets the DE cake, resulting in longer filter cycles. I knew a guy who almost never backwashed, he just bumped his filter weekly, and backwashed once or twice per season, with a complete disassemble and cleaning at season’s end.

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Greetings, I have a Hayward C4030 cartridge Filter. While cleaning the filters the other day I has the manifold off and just sprayed water into the vertical pipe to rinse anything out in there – and noticed that there was water bubbling up internally where the elbow connects to the exterior wall. If you look at the manual ( https://hayward-pool-assets.com/assets/documents/pools/pdf/manuals/SwimClear-Cxx30-revB.pdf ) on page 10 of 12 part 17, right where it connects at the wall to part 23 – but internally…. I know that it is allowing unfiltered water to bypass the filters and i need to stop that… what would the best way to fix that part be? replace the parts 17 and 23 or should I take epoxy and weld that elbow to the internal wall of the housing? Suggestions would be appreciated.

Hi Evan, part 23 threads into part 17, so I think I would try to back part 23 almost all the way out of 17, but not completely, then squeeze some silicone gasket maker, like Blue RTV over the threads, then wrap it 3x clockwise with Teflon tape, and then tighten it back up again (don’t overtighten, just snug).

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I’m opening my pool up this year after not using it for a year and circulation of the water works great but whenever I try to filter it, I dump sand into my pool. Any guesses as to why? I emptied the sand and none of the laterals appeared to be broken but after putting everything back together it is still throwing sand into the pool.

Hi BLair, is it sand coming thru, or silt / dust? Sand will roll around on the ground when you hit it with a brush, but silty dirt will ‘poof’ up. Could be that the sand is old, or the sand is not ‘pool filter sand’, or there is too much sand in the filter, or the pump is too large and powerful for such a small filter (not true if you purchased as a pump/filter set or package). I assume the multiport valve is top mounted. Does the vertical standpipe extend all the way up into the valve when reassembled? Is there an o-ring missing from inside the valve, one that seals up the standpipe? Most filters have a small o-ring for that purpose, just inside where the standpipe fits. Did you notice sand inside of the standpipe and hub and laterals when you took it apart. And finally, is the pump pipe attached to the mpv port labeled PUMP and the return hose attached to the port labeled RETURN? Hope that helps~!

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I have a sand filter with a threaded Vari-flo valve (NOT clamped).

It is sealed with clear silicone.

What is the best way and tool (strap wrench?) to unthread the valve from the filter tank?

Hi Donald, if you leave enough pipe connected, and perhaps screw a pipe into the PUMP or RETURN ports and also the WASTE port, you can use the pipe sections (6-12″ long) as leverage bars, to remove the valve. That’s how I’ve always done it, but a strap wrench could also be a good idea, if you have one big enough.

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Hi Davy! Thx for the blog. I’ve got a couple of questions…First, the lid on my Hayward DE4820 exploded. A buddy of mine had a DE7220 lid that I put on temporarily. What’s the downside to using this larger lid with a smaller set of grid elements?

Next, there’s definitely some air getting into the system. What’s the best way to identify where it’s happening and if it’s in the PVC joints, is there something I can use to seal them without cutting them out and replacing? Thx again!!

Hi Steve, during backwash, I’d be afraid that the grid assembly would lift off of the standpipe, and dump DE powder into the pool. If you can modify the lid, to install a 2×4 block (or something) in the top center of the lid, secured with liquid nails (or epoxy), that may prevent that from happening…? Air in the system is definitely coming from BEFORE the impeller. The most common place is around the pump lid, or from the threaded fitting coming into the pump. There are other causes, and lots of ways to troubleshoot air in the pool filter system …

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Have Haywood StarClear Plus filter for inground pool. The filter head (dome cover) will not evenly seat onto filter body. Gasket has been replaced. Tried to seat without cartridge filter and even removed tie rod that goes into the filter body. Still won’t seat evenly. The mating surfaces have also been cleaned. Any suggestions? Thank you!

How about we place the filter lid onto a very flat surface, like a kitchen floor or garage floor and try to determine if the lid is warped. Use a straight edge or level across the base of the filter tank, to determine the same thing. It would be rare, but lets be certain that one or both is not warped somehow. Another thought is the cold weather, or cold water may be contributing to a little warping, or difficulty with seating. Maybe bring the lid inside the house for a few hours? Of course, the filter cartridge has to be fully seated, and the tie rod fully screwed in place, for the lid to sit-down fully and mate with the lower half. Good Luck, Randy!

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When replacing the lower internal elbow in a Hayward S200 filter and the lateral assembly what type glue is used to secure the elbow to the lateral assembly?

Hi Michael, technically ABS glue is called for in this case, although PVC glue (medium body or heavy body) would also work well. Just be sure it’s fresh glue, and priming the pieces first with PVC primer/cleaner is also recommended to soften and heat up the two pieces, for a hotter glue joint, where they meld/fuse together more solidly.

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What is the best way to seat the diaphragm gasket after cleaning the EC65 filter. Mine always pinches or bunches up and it never seats just right.

Hi Edward, it helps when the gasket is clean and well lubed . The lip of the gasket should be ‘tucked-in’ properly around the plate, before placing the lid/cover. Tighten the cover bolts with a star pattern. If the gasket seems loose or is still bunching up, it may be distended, or stretched out, and needs replacement. Although generic o-rings are normally fine, with this part, I do not recommend generic replacements, use only Hayward ECX1003.

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Hello. My Hayward S200 sand filter is leaking, it’s surely the gasket between the two halves of the body. My question is how much water am I losing from this. (The Hayward 1hp Super pump also appears to be leaking). Am I losing significant water from the filter? Could I be?

Hi Bob, great question. A steady drip from the pump or filter will not be noticeable in the pool water level. A steady drip of one drop per second could be about 4-6 gallons per day, a gallon being roughly 15000 drops. Something that is spraying or running however, can be considerably more. Most pools have a slow drip or ooze here and there, not uncommon. Over many years however, it could cause the soils beneath the filter slab to erode in some cases, and in other cases, a small leak can erupt into a larger, sudden leak, but not usually.

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Help! I have a Haywood sand filter, installed for one year causing endless issues. Sand was being returned back into the pool. My pool installers finally changed out the cracked lateral assembly and added new sand. (I have had a pool for 30 years, with no issues , but what do I know?)Sand is still being ejected back into the pool. I have set the port to waste, and backwash with no help. I ended up with algae and have killed, brushed and vacuum the walls and bottom of the pool, numerous times . my water is cloudy, chemicals are balanced per water testing and with my pool filter running non stop for 4 days there is no difference in the water quality. I think I have a defective pump. Any thoughts?

Hi Cheri, possibly the filter is plumbed backwards. Look closely on the valve where the pipes connect to the filter, one port is labeled PUMP and the other is labeled RETURN, or FROM pump and TO returns in the pool wall. If not that, it could be that the sand used was not #20 silica sand, labeled pool filter sand, on the bag. IT could be too much sand was added. The pump could be too large for the Filter Design Flow Rate (should be printed on the filter label).

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I had a clip and plate break today on Hayward de filter with fingers. Symptom was that when I went to bump filter there was no resistance. I purchase kit to replace clips washers and small o ring gaskets. Found out bottom plate was also broken. Replaced plates. When we attempted to reassemble plate assembly to lid and bump handle it is not lining up correctly. Also when reassembled to tank and pump turned on handle does not rise and there was no room for movement to bump fingers. Any idea what we might have done wrong? Googled o ring assembly etc. have done this before to replace a couple fingers as well as small stem o ring/ gaskets but never so many issues.

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Just bought a house with a pool. My first one. Hayward DE filter been running great until recently. Went on vacation and came back with water at skimmer level. Filter had been set to run 3 hours a day. When put water back in pool and fired up filter, it’s leaking from all around the top crown part of the filter near the handle. Not sure what to do

Hi Mike, Musta blown a gasket, under the lid on the bump shaft, there are small o-rings, that prevent water from bubbling up around the shaft, where the bump handle attaches. (Assuming this is a Hayward Perflex DE filter). Probably just need 2 of ZAPC0096, o-ring O-30, or you can get the Kit ECX1014A >>> https://www.intheswim.com/c/filter-parts – unless, you see small cracks on the plastic where the shaft goes thru the lid…. then you need a new lid.

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My old filter and pump have been moved from my basement to outside, I noticed that one of the bolts around the filter was put in upside down and it’s leaking, is this bolt position a mistake . Can I change it just turning off power.

Hi Carol, it may not be that the bolt is causing the problem, but that it and other bolts may be loose, or the gasket inside is dirty perhaps. Yes, turn off the power, and check tightness on all bolts. A Star tightening pattern is best for equal tightness all around.

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We have a Hayward sand filter. It started to leak small amounts of sand into the pool. We checked everything inside. Nothing is broken.our pressure gauge is not working could that affect it? Also the little glass thing that we look at when backwashing to see if it’s clear is leaking just a little when we backwash it rinse. When we rinse it makes like a little sand tornado in that glass thing. Any ideas what’s wrong?

Hi Brenda, it is normal for very small amounts (tablespoons) of sand to be ejected during backwashing, or be visible in the sight glass. The sight glass usually has a small gasket, like a hose washer, but it’s not a problem that it leaks during backwash. Using Rinse after backwash will usually prevent residual sand from going into the pool. But if you are building up small piles of sand under the return then there could be a problem, and it would have to be either from a cracked lateral or hub, or standpipe. Pressure gauge would not be the issue…, but laterals, hub or standpipe. Also, some dirt/dust looks like sand in the pool, when it’s just colored like sand, but if hit with a brush it will go ‘poof’, whereas sand will just roll around.

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Dave…great website. Question…I have an old Airquatic 24in filter that is mated with a Hayward Vari-Flo SP714 valve. Problem was two of the PVC laterals broke and it was pulling sand in, but I got them and the old broke off pieces out. I can reuse the old laterals…

These are old style laterals which are glued in. What glue can be used to reattach them? The laterals are PVC, the “collector” (where they are glued in) is plastic.

Thanks in advance.

Hi, probably ABS glue would be best, or PVC glue – either one, as long as it is Fresh, and not old.

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I have a hayward micro star lear 225 filter and i purchared a new elbow and it came with a small o ring and I dont know where it should go. I took off the old parts and dont see an o rong on the elbow. I put in together 10 times now and it is leaking where the top of the elbow connects to the top of the filter.

Hi Mr Comisi, Do the threads that go into the top of the filter have a thread sealant, like Teflon tape? Or is the leak within the ball joint union? I also am not sure about that o-ring, normally I would think it would go inside of the union to seal the end of the elbow, but I cannot find a good picture to see if there is a groove on the tip of the elbow (the short end).

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Hayward EC65. I am experiencing low pressure (5psi.) I removed the filter top and washed and cleaned the filter fingers and also replaced the 3 -rings on the bump handle shaft (since I had it apart); after reassembly I still have Low pressure. What am I missing? what else to check? I saw comments elsewhere about the diverter covering the impeller on my SuperPump being warped thereby not making efficient full from the pool(??). (I’ve not pulled the pump to look).

Hi Vince, high pressure is usually related to filter problems, but low pressure is typically a pump problem, like a clogged impeller, or an air leak. There is a diffuser or impeller shroud, which usually has a gasket or o-ring, they must both be in place properly for good flow – but if you have not had it apart recently, then unlikely to fail. Another more rare possibility is that your suction pipes could be clogged or crimping under vacuum. Check the impeller for seeds or pebbles, that’s my guess!

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I have a Hayward Xtreme C1500 cartridge filter. It has become incredibly difficult to open (or close) the filter for cartridge cleaning. The black band balks at turning. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Can the threads be lubed? If so, with what?

Hi, yes I would scrub the threads on the tank and the band clean with soap and a good scrub brush, dry, and then lube with regular Pool Lube like Magic Lube or Jacks 327 (Teflon or Silicone based, but never petroleum based). Also, you o-ring, pn CCX1000G may be distended or swollen, and possibly also grimy, or nicked or pinched. Clean well and lube well, or replace the o-ring if trouble continues.

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I have the same problem but right now I can not even get the top to budge. The black band moves then stops as if is locks both clockwise and counter clockwise. I have the same filter

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I have water coming out of my waste when in the filter mode. I have replaced the Multiport valve (that has a spider gasket already on it) and replaced the broken handle. Now it seem as though nothing lines up. When In filter mode, the water going into the pool is dirty, and also still coming out of the waste. When I put it in backwash, it doesn’t back wash. Pressure builds up into the filter tank? I know the cover is on right, as it only goes on one way. We lined up pointing to filter- with the opening on the Multiport valve. We have also replaced the O ring on the skimmer basket on the pump. I have no idea what else to do. The local pool stores don’t seem to know when I try explaining this to them. Would the spring cause all of this??

Hi ALicia, it sounds like the plumbing is backwards. Look on the side of the valve, and next to the in/out ports you should see the words imprinted PUMP and RETURN. Connect the pipe from the pump into port labeled PUMP and the pipe going to the pool into the RETURN port.

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Hi, I have a Hayward sand filter that has a small crack right around the mouth of the tank. My husband tried to put a sealant on it, inside and out, and it held for a short period of time and now it’s gushing water out again. I only plan to keep this pool for another year and don’t want to invest in a brand new filter. Any suggestions on a temporary fix to get me through the summer? Thanks

Hi Cathy, no unfortunately there is no good fix, i have tried before myself and failed. A pinhole can sometimes be drilled out and gasketed and sealed with a thru-bolt, but a crack running around the crown is a different story. There is no way to seal it that I know of – and it could be dangerous to use it in a repaired condition.

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I have a Heyward filter, been working great until start up this year. turned it on after changing sand and filter works properly for about an hour then stops filtering, motor is running just no pressure on suction or discharge sides of filter. any suggestions would be appreciated thank you

Hi David, was the sand labeled “Pool Filter Sand” in bags? If not .45-.55 mm, #20 silica sand, this would give you problems. Did you put in the correct amount, not too little, not too much? Have you backwashed the filter yet – how does that do? Is the multiport valve installed properly onto the standpipe? Are the pipes connected into the valve at the correct ports, PUMP and RETURN?

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Hello sir, I have another question about my ec65 DE Hayward filter. I have a leak from the Gauge Port Adapter, definitely not the gauge itself. My question is , with the o-ring, which is in good shape, do I need to apply teflon to the threads going into the filter? Thank You!

Hi Jack, yes the gauge port adapter, if the o-ring is in good shape ECX1287, and is lubed and it still leaks, I would use Teflon tape on the adapter threads, yes. You can also use Silicone or RTV sealant, but Teflon tape should suffice…

Hello sir, thank you for providing this service! My ec-65 Hayward filter is 25 years old. I replaced several fingers in it a few years ago, otherwise it has worked great. The pool was not opened for 2 years (working overseas). When I opened my pool a few days ago, after taking off the top of the filter, cleaning and reassembling, I’ve noticed when I go to bump the handle I get no resistance from pushing the handle down and the handle is already down. I know in the past once the pressure built up in the filter the handle was up. Any idea what would cause this issue. I also noticed in some of the above questions you mentioned a DE cleaner! Where would one obtain this product? Thank you

Hi Jack, for the bump handle, I would suspect that either a an E-Clip or O-Ring on the bump shaft has become dislodged. This would require a complete tear down to fix, but may be necessary. Open up the tank and pull out the ‘filter nest assy’, hose it off clean. Remove the handle and then remove the cover or lid. Then you can separate the top and bottom plates, and inspect the sets of o-rings and e-clips. You may as well replace them, they are available in a kit ECX1014A . For the filter cleaner, you would use DE filter Cleaner , which is made to dissolve both scale deposits and oil deposits on the flex tubes (fingers). Fill a large bucket with water and cleaner, and soak the nest assy overnight, then hose clean. A very good treatment for Perflex filters.

Thanks for the advice! You were correct, the top e-clip was broken. I replaced all the parts with the kit you suggested! I will try the cleaner you recommended! Thanks again!

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The valve that carries the backwash from filter leaks and I can’t stop it. Any suggestions? Thanks

Hi Bob, sometimes it is just a twig or sand stuck between the gasket and diverter, and pushing down on the handle with the pump off will usually wash it clean. if not, then the spider gasket is usually twisted, torn or worn, and needs replacement. You can stop the water leak temporarily by plugging the waste outlet with a 1.5″ threaded plug, but only until you get it fixed, don’t do that permanently. To repair, open up the valve by removing all the screws on the top and separating the top (key assy, or lid and handle), from the valve body. There you can inspect the gasket, or replace it. Scrape it out, replace with flat side down, glued in place with dabs of silicone or superglue.

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Hi, We have the Hayward Perflex DE with the fingers. It’s very old. So it works when you first start it but after like 5-10 minutes it stops filtering and Have to shut it off, let the air out of the little black knob then pump the top again and turn it back on until the air is out of the little black knob, shut that anti works again for a little bit. Any Ideas on this?

Hi, your filter fingers are clogged up with grease and oil, or there is not enough DE powder in the tank, or both. When you bump the handle, the DE and dirt mixes up again, and flow is restored for a short time, but clogs up again soon. Remove the entire filter nest assembly from the tank by removing all the screws around the top (don’t lose any!). Spray off the fingers with a hose, then soak in a DE filter cleaner and water, in a 5-gal bucket to remove oil and scale. Hose clean and reinstall, with the correct amount of DE powder for your filter size and model.

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I am having an issue with the rod through the center of the filter not tightening. The rod will tighten at the top against the lid but will not tighten to the bottom of the filter. It is a Hayward filter, probably an older one. It has worked fine for the four years I have owned the home. It seems like the threads on the bottom of the filter where the metal rod attaches are stripped. Any ideas?

HI Jay, if it is a DE filter, you can pull the entire assembly out and replace the nut, but I suspect that you have a StarClear filter model. The bottom of the tie-rod threads directly into the base of the filter. In this case, if the base of the filter has stripped, you would need a new filter. You could try some epoxy like JB Weld, to permanently ‘glue’ the tie-rod in place, which may or may not be successful.

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JB Weld is not strong enough. The stripped threads in the base of a Hayward Starclear pool filter can be fixed with a Helicoil, part 5521-9. About $35 on eBay. The kit comes with a tap, a stainless insert with new threads and a tool to install it. You are supposed to use a 19/32 drill, but I didn’t need one; the hole was big enough I could just use the tap. I used a 1/2″ 12 point socket and a long extension to turn the tap, since its so far down in the filter base. It’s a 10 minute repair. The threads on the rod are 9/16, UNC 12 threads per inch.

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I changed my sand and after doing so, the pool filled up with sand, after taking the filter apart, the top multi valve was not attached to the standpipe. could that have been the reason the sand went into the pool? I checked the laterals and they are fine. I have to replace the sand, but want to make sure I cover all things before I put sand back into it. Was that my problem or should I look for something else.

Yes, that would be the issue, there is a small o-ring inside the valve opening, add a bit of lube, and make sure the hub assembly is sitting at the right height, check that the bottom part of the umbrella assembly did not break off or something, making the assembly shorter, so that it doesn’t reach into the valve. When placing the valve, a little twist and push down, and you should feel the valve seat onto the top of the standpipe…

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We have had our Hayward filter for 22 years. This year we had to replace the insides. The problem is the bottom of the unit is leaking. It sides on a cement base at when turned on it leaks. What can we do to fix it?

Hi Diane, if the tank itself is leaking, from a crack or hole in the tank, you will need to replace the filter, as such repairs are rarely permanent or safe. If the leak is from the filter drain assembly, that can usually be fixed with a new plug and o-ring, or some Teflon tape on the threads. The leak can also be from the clamp band around the middle or from the air bleeder assy on top of the filter – and dripping down off the bottom. Filter tank bulkheads can also leak, where the water goes in and out of the tank, there are gaskets or o-rings on all of these, drain, clamp, bleeder, bulkhead – so depending on what part of the filter is leaking, you can buy the correct o-ring and install with Teflon (pool) lube, as the usual fix for a leaking filter.

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I replaced the gasket on my EC-65 Hayward filter because the other was leaking, it is still leaking with the new gasket.

Hi Dennis, I assume you are talking about the lid o-ring? You probably made sure the o-ring was not pinched, and all the nuts are super tight, and there is no grit or de powder in the groove, and you spread some lube on the o-ring before reassembly? if so, and it still leaks, is the pressure normal on the filter? Is the gauge working properly? Is flow normal, or slower than normal? These things could indicate an obstruction, which raises pressure, slows flow and can cause leaking where normally none occurs. It could be blockage in the line, or partially closed valve, or filter fingers that are clogged with oils or mineral scale, or both.

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I have had my Hayward system for about 3.5 years .. no real issues at all .. maintained it to the smallest detail … then I come home and there are 2 or 3 small pen holes along the seam of the filter tank ??? I put a piece of flex tape on it just to slow it down till I can get to the pool people but then I noticed small trickle of water coming from under the top part of the system ( the black ring that tightens the controls to the filter system .. ie. switch to turn to back wash and what not) there is never more then 12 – 15 psi to this so how did this happen ??? I do not wanna go spend 500 dollars + all new sand + labor to have the pool people come do all this …. what could have happened and how can I fix it ???

Hi Nick, some sort of strain or fatigue, either suddenly or gradual, can cause a Sand filter tank to pinhole leak or crack. Sometimes a water hammer effect, like suddenly closing a return side valve, or turning the multiport valve while the filter is running, or starting up with plugs in the pool wall. There is no way to repair it successfully, and I’ve tried, too. You can replace it yourself for about $250, depending on the model. Buying the entire filter + valve is usually cheaper than buying just the tank alone, and you’ll get it faster too.

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What can cause the top of the ec65 filter to crack. This is the second time mine has done this in a 2 month period

Hi Andrew, it takes a lot of force to crack a filter – and my guess is a ‘water hammer’ effect, from closing off a valve after the filter, while the pump is running, or suddenly blocking the wall return jets in the pool (all of them). Or a large tree branch, lol. Or… a pump that is too large for the filter, much larger than the design flow rate, which for EC65 is 54 GPM maximum.

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my Haywood s-200 sand filter doesn’t seem to be filtering. I’ve changed to sand but got no improvement. it just seems to be recirculating water. there is a small leak at the bottom of the filter which only happens when filter is running.

Hi John, if there is -0- pressure on the gauge, and the gauge is not broken, the multiport valve could allow water to bypass the filter. If this is happening, you should easily see damage to the spider gasket, rotor and spring, if you open up the MPV and inspect inside. When changing the sand, the bags did say “Pool Filter Sand”? Any other sand would cause problems. Another possible cause is a new pump that is larger than the old pump, forcing the water right thru the sand without filtering. The small leak is likely not related to a filter problem. Finally, if the filter valve has been plumbed incorrectly, reversing the PUMP and RETURN ports, this would cause poor filtration. Or if the valve is set on the Recirculate position, and not filter, then it really will be recirculating! Good Luck!

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Hi i have a perflex EC40C90 purchased in 2016, i had hayward for years that had numerous screws, this on does not and i cant get it to stop leakinf d from around the band.husband has no idea what 100 in-lbs means when tightening, this filter is terrible. what do you suggest

Hi, 100 in-lbs means the torque that should be applied to the clamp band, using a torque wrench, which no one has – but 100 lbs is … quite tight! To seal up a clamp band, be sure that the lid o-ring fits snugly around the tank or tank lid, and that it is not dry-rotted, nicked or cut, or otherwise deteriorated. Also make sure to lube the o-ring with a pool lube (Teflon based), and when tightening the clamp, tap it a few times around the edge with a hammer, and then tighten some more. If it still leaks, reposition the clamp band and try again. If it still leaks, replace the o-ring. If the clamp band won’t tighten fully, check the bolt and nut for stripped screws.

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I’m having the same issue. I just replaced the diaphragm gasket. When the filter starts up it’s fine. When the pressure starts to increase it starts leaking at first small drips then it looks like a hose went off. Is the clamp assembly ends supposed to be touching when you tighten it ? I can’t get it any tighter..

Hi Lisa, is the filter pressure also very high? What can happen with Hayward Perflex filters when exposed to oily substances, is the fingers (flex-tubes) can become clogged with oil and/or mineral scale. Soaking the ‘Nest Assy’ in a 5-gal bucket filled with DE Filter Cleaner, and then hosing clean seems to fix the issue. Be sure also to use the correct amount of DE powder when restarting.

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have a Hayward regenx grid element de filter system (rg70075xeh). getting de in pool this year. fyi replaced pump a few years ago, replaced grid element last season.

Hi Chris, it could be that the regenex DE cartridge is not pushed fully down onto the Diverter, in the bottom of the tank, or it could be a cracked diverter. Perhaps the piston o-rings could cause leakage. Of course it could be the cartridge, inspect closely for damage, and if so, I would wonder if the new pump is too large, for the filter design flow rate?

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I have a Hayward Pro Series above ground sand filter. When I go to backwash and/or rinse the only water coming out is what would drain. The backwash and/or rinse cycle are not working. However, it is working properly on the filter cycle.

How about the “Waste” setting or ‘Drain to Waste’? If that is not working either… is there a valve on the backwash line that needs to be opened? Is something clogging the waste port, inside the multiport valve? Open up the valve to inspect it from the inside, just remove all 6 screws and pry up the lid.

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I have a 16×32 inground pool. I have an older ec65 hayward perflex de filter. I have little to none flow.Its barely pulling any water through the system.I can’t clean the pool. What’s wrong?

Hi Ken, could be a clogged pump impeller, or a clogged filter. Perflex filters can become clogged with oils and/or calcium, or polymer goo from using cheap clarifiers. If it’s not the pump impeller or a clog in a skimmer line – I would disassemble the filter, hose off the flex tubes, and then soak the assembly in a 5 gallon bucket of warm water, with 1 lb of TSP added, as a non-foaming degreaser. Then rinse off well. If mineral scale is seen or suspected, follow-up with a soak in 5-gals of warm water with 1 lb of pH decreaser added. Rinse again very thoroughly, and reinstall into the tank. EC65 uses 6 lbs of DE powder, and if using dry kitchen measures, it’s actually 32 oz for each pound, as DE is half as light (fluffy) as other dry measures.

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My hayward filter has 3 hairline cracks on the outer casing. Can I epoxy this, or do i have to replace the entire filter? The cracks are hairline. Thanks so much!

Hi Jeff – I have tried before, to patch filter tank cracks, and always failed. And the worst is when it fails and then drains half the pool! If they are not leaking now, just hairline cracks, you could try a fiberglass repair kit, which includes mesh fiberglass and epoxy resin. Won’t be pretty, but might add some strength and prevent a complete failure – or maybe not… If it does fail, buy the whole filter new, buying just the tank alone usually costs more

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Hi …….I need help please. Have an above ground pool for over 20 years; and have never had this issue before. I have a one year old Hayward Perlex Filter Model EC40C92. After floccing pool; and then backwashing and refilling filter – – The precoat pressure reading is at 17 ( seems way too high ) and after running pump/filter for 15 – 20 minutes; pressure goes up to 22 and barely any flow into pool. After reading Davy Merino blog for a similar problem ; I ” did the deed ” and disassembled filter and cleaned all the flex tubes and entire inside of filter; as well as pump skimmer basket. Refilled with 4lbs of DE per owners manual ; still have the exact same problem with high pre coat pressure and getting only 15-20 minutes flow. What am I doing wrong ?

Hi Bruce, when you say 4 lbs of DE… did you also see my comments about DE? 1 lb of DE is actually 32 oz of dry measure (not 16 oz. as you would think. If you are adding 4 x 32 oz, OK… but wouldn’t hurt to try a little more DE powder. also wonder if the pool pump is too large for the filter? The Perflex 40 model has a design flow rate of 40 GPM, which is not much, even a 3/4 hp Powerflo pump can produce more flow than that… If the DE is OK and the pump is OK, I might suggest adding a pool enzyme chemical, to consume any oily substances in the pool. good luck!

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The top of my relief valve cover came off. Will this affect my filter running?

Rick, as long as it’s not leaking you should be OK. However, be cautious of it blowing out completely, and turning into a geyser, if that could be possible in this specific instance…

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Hi Davy, I think something is clogged in the multiport valve – the dial isn’t turning. The sand filter is newish. I was able to turn it this morning. After vacuuming the pool (lots of stuff), the problem arose. What to do? Thanks.

Hi Peter, are you pushing down fully on the handle, and it still won’t move? In such case, remove all 6 screws around the lid and remove the ‘key assembly’ by lifting the handle (you may need to pry slightly with a flat head screwdriver to separate the lid from the body). Once inside, inspect the spider gasket which may be twisted and torn, or you may find a foreign object blocking the rotor from turning, or the rear plug may have been replaced by something long that protrudes into the valve body.

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I have an older model Hayward S200 Sand Filter and I have a leak at the bulkhead pipe connection at the sand filter body that connects to the Vari-flow multiport Valve. I think it is a broken O-ring inside the bulkhead pipe connection. How easy is it to replace the O-ring and replace the bulkhead pipe connection incase it is cracked? Do I need any special equipment? Thank you, Charlie Riddell

Hi Charlie, Not an ‘easy’ job, but no special tools needed. You will need to empty the sand, and possibly replace it, or reuse if fairly new. the bulkhead screws into the pipe connection, as you can see in a schematic diagram. Use thread sealant on the bulkhead threads, and be sure to keep all sand out of the way, just a few grains of sand could cause a leak. Probably just the o-ring is needed, but as you say there possibly could be a crack in the bulkhead, or the pipe on the inside of the tank. You can do it! 🙂

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Backwash line leaks when I filter, what’s wrong?

Hi Kieth, if you have a multiport valve, the problem is either a loose, twisted or damaged spider gasket inside the valve, or a bad spring under the valve handle. Remove all the screws around the valve lid, and lift the key assembly out by the handle. Inspect the spider gasket (wagon wheel shape), and especially look for damage adjacent to the waste port. A new spider gasket is likely the solution. These are unique to the valve that you have, look for the valve number and you can find the gasket in our valve parts dept, or hit me back here for help with that, with pics and info from the valve.

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I’ve opened my pool successfully for 23 years. This year water was pretty black. Setup filter, started to run. My issue is filter will lose all pressure after about 1/2 hour of running. I do get pressure back after bumping, but then dissipates. I’ve back-flushed 3 times, changing the DE, also the back-flushed water does not look that dirty. Still lose pressure after an 1/2 hour. I do get full pressure for about 15-30 minutes after bumping or back-flushing. Thank you!

Hi Dave, sounds like a Hayward Perflex filter? Likely that the flex tubes (fingers) are clogged with oily deposits. Time to do the deed, and open up all those little screws, pull out the “Nest Assembly”, hose it off very well, and soak in a 5-gal bucket with TSP to remove oils without suds, followed by a soak in a mild 10:1 acid solution to remove any scale – or you can just use our DE Filter Cleaner . Rinse off well and bolt it all back together, then a full fresh charge of DE powder, perhaps an extra scoop or two to start, EC65 uses 6 – 1 lb coffee can size scoops and EC75 uses 7 lbs.

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I’m not sure what the problem is but it may be a few bad flex tubes. When they are bad, I know DE powder can leak through them. My question is, are the holes noticeable in the tubes if the fabric has holes? I looked at all of the tubes and maybe found a few questionable ones but they didn’t look bad…maybe a pinhole….I have the Hayward EC75A filter about 4 years old. It could have been loose nuts around the perimeter of the tube assembly…I don’t know. I’m trying to start up the pool and it looks like stuff is going back into the pool but it might be air. I am checking that next. Pool is so dirty I’m having trouble distinguishing between the two.

Hi Roger, the holes would be noticeable in size, a pinhole is not really a concern. When DE powder leaks into the Pool from a Hayward Perflex filter and it’s not the flex tubes, it is usually missing bump shaft o-rings or loose tube sheet bolts

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We have a Hayward Perflex EC 65 filter. We noticed that the earth is coming back into the pool through the return lines. There is no crack in the grid holding the flex tubes which was a problem once before. What else could cause this problem?

Hi Sherrie, good question. When DE powder leaks into the Pool from a Hayward Perflex filter: 1. Holes in the flex tube fabric 2. missing or damaged bump shaft o-rings 3. mis-aligned or damaged diaphragm gasket 4. loose tube sheet bolts 5. cracked tube sheet (grid or plate)

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I installed a new Hayward SP1408 return on my above ground pool. It is leaking on the pool side. I have tightened the screws as tight as it can go without feeling it will break. Everything is working fine and no leaks. At this point what should I do!

Hi Travis, did you get a gasket on top of the liner and one underneath the liner on the pool side, and a separate gasket on the out-side of the pool? 3 gaskets total. You can make a gasket in a pinch with a cereal box or some sheet rubber, but it’s best to use the real thing if you can.

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I have a Hayward cartridge filter. The cover has become harder & harder to connect tightly & not leak. Would this indicate the cover (or bottom) portion needs replacing? It leaks & I have to continue pulling off & reapplying until it no longer leaks.

Hi Kathy, a leaking filter lid usually means either a loose clamp or a bad (or dirty) lid o-ring. Remove the o-ring and clean it well with a rag, then apply a good bead of Teflon pool lube, again with a rag. For inground filters, tighten the clamp band until all springs are touching on the clasp assembly. Tapping the clamp band around the edge once or twice while tightening helps to get it tighter. Also inspect for burrs or damage to the sealing faces on the lid or tank, small things like this, even specks of sand, can prevent the o-ring from sealing. Dry-rotted o-rings or distended (enlarged) o-rings will also give leaking problems, requiring o-ring replacement. But likely not the filter tank, not usually.

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I have a Haywood c1750. The toe rod keeps coming loose at the base causing pressure to go up. And the rod gets stuck to the lid. I tried using loc-tite but it didn’t work. Any suggestions?

hi Christine, I understand the problem. Separate the rod again from the lid, and the tank, and inspect the threads, for any damage. There may be damage to the female threads in the tank base itself, but that’s hard to inspect. Dry out the tank fully, use a towel to dry the female threads in the tank. Feel them with your fingers if possible, inspecting for damage. Then use lock-tite again, or go with a heavy silicone sealant like RTV, plus some Teflon tape, and Lock-Tite (why not?), and tighten it down fully, using small pliers for the last 1/2 turn. Then Lubricate the top threads and the shaft, and the o-ring, with a pool lube, and reapply every 6 months. That should hold it – if not, I suspect damage to the bottom threads in the tank body, which means, a new filter probably…

Thank you, any specific type of RTV? I’m looking on Amazon and there are several kinds.

I usually use the Blue RTV #6B by Permatex. Red RTV is for high temp, which is not needed.

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I have a Hayward EC 75 de filter . The pressure gauge and adapter have been leaking.may be 2 to 3 drops on low speed to a slow stream when the ecopump is on high I don’t see any water coming from the adapter to tank connection but water is dripping from the gauge to the adapter.I have installed and reinstalled 3 times with the same result.I tried Teflon tape ,magic lube and a combination of both.still leaking.What am I doing wrong?

Hi Rick, good question. The EC-65 and EC-75 Perflex filters use a backmount pressure gauge, which fits into the larger round ‘inspection port adapter’. there is an o-ring that is used to tighten the port adapter piece to the filter lid, O-128, or SPX1500W. Maybe that’s your leak? Either that or the inspection port adapter inside threads (where you screw in the gauge) has tiny cracks around the 1/4″ female threads. Replacing the adapter, ECX12866 should be the fix for that. The port adapter can be removed from the lid by hand, or with large pliers, it is threaded into the lid.

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I have a small pin hole leak near the top of my tank. It is just left of the seam. Will putting a small screw in it stop the leak until I can replace it? Or would an epoxy resin patch be better. Model number S244t

Hi Roger, I’ve never had a filter patch last very long, most of mine failed immediately. As you mention, a screw with a large rubber gasket, and threads sharp and large enough to bite into the tank, sealed with an epoxy resin at the time of screwing it in, might be the best bet. It could be dangerous however, if that screw were to dislodge, like a bullet – so please be careful! I suppose you could also run a thin, short bolt thru the tank, with a nut and washer on the inside (stainless steel), and rubber gaskets on both sides, plus some epoxy, would be less dangerous than a screw. Good luck, you should be able to slow the water flow enough to run the filter for a few weeks hopefully, while you get a new tank on order, although usually the entire filter is less costly than buying the tank alone. If all else fails, you can switch the multiport to Recirculate, to at least circulate the water, even though it’s not being filtered…

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Hi Davy, I have a SM 2000 series filter, Model 2060. The filter has a dripping leak from the lid closure. I replaced the o-ring and used silicone lube on the tank groove and the lid as well as the o-ring. The leak has not gone away. I inspected the metal surfaces of the tank and lid. The o-ring groove in the tank body is nice and smooth. The lid paint has started chipping away in some areas, and one area of the lid surface that goes against the groove has some corrosion pitting. Three questions. First, is it typical for paint chipping and corrosion pitting on the surface that goes against the o-ring? Second, is the paint chipping or pitting the likely cause of the leak? Any suggestions? Thank you.

Hi Greg, I’m not sure if the pitting and corrosion is normal, and I suppose that it could be the cause of the leak, if the pitting were very deep. But if quite small and shallow, probably not. If rusty/crusty, use some sandpaper or sanding block, or even a small smooth rock to sand it down smooth. In your case, the o-ring should fit very tight around the tank, other filters fit a bit more loosely (but not ‘loose’). if a generic o-ring was used that could be a problem, although generics are usually on spec. When tightening the clamp band, it is helpful to tap the band in 2-3 areas around the band, to help seat it fully, and filter clamps do need to be tightened very tightly, until they squeak and creak, and for clamps with a spring, all spring coils should be touching. Also helpful at times is moving the clamp to a new location, so that the bolt/nut is in a different location than before. Some filter lids also have to be aligned with an arrow on the bottom tank half, for proper sealing.

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When I start up my pool pump (by timer of course) I get leakage at the center of my Hayward C4000 filter housing, at the clamp. Actually, quite a bit of water comes out! If the air release valve is open, this doesn’t happen. I’ve replaced the O-ring (last year) and it seems as though it’s a smaller diameter than the one I had (I’ve had this pool since 2002). Also, I’ve replaced the air release valve, the pressure gauge, and the small O-ring gasket inside that valve. It seems at start up there is too much pressure to hold that major O-ring from leaking. Once up and running for a few minutes it stops leaking and seems to work fine. Does this seem like a gasket issue or a air release valve issue? I’m at a loss and can’t afford to lose this much water at start up every day! Thank you, Gregg

Hi Gregg, sounds like a gasket issue, the large tank o-ring, or ‘belly band’ o-ring. On the Super Star Clear filter tanks (C4000), the Hayward part number is DEX2400K, however this part has been discontinued by Hayward. O-429 is the generic replacement. O-430 is nearly the same, but slightly smaller, perhaps you have the wrong o-ring. Lube on the o-ring is also important, and every year or so it’s good to clean the o-ring with a rag, to remove any grime, and clean the tank groove of any dirt (or DE powder for DE filters), then apply a fresh coat of lube all-over, by using a rag or paper towel, to apply a coating of Teflon or Silicone based o-ring lubricant, to help improve seal and protect the rubber. Also, the clamp band spring should compress fully, so that all spring sides are touching. Tap the clamp band around the outer edge with a hammer or heavy tool, when it first tightens up, then crank it down tight with a socket wrench or closed end wrench until it squeaks and creaks.

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Hello Davy, I have an older Hayward EC75 Perflex DE Filter. It works great but recently the bump handle is very hard to operate. I have to remove the handle and hit the pin with a rubber hammer to force it down. Then, after after spraying it with WD40, I reattach the handle and pull the pin up. It works good then to bump but in a week, I have to do this procedure all over again. Pressure is fine and no leaks anywhere. Any idea what is causing this?

Hi Dave, sorry for the delayed response, was at the national pool show – anyway, under the lid, attached to the shaft, above and below the two plates, are small o-rings (O-30), that likely are dry and choked with DE powder. It’s a repair that can take an hour or so, to pull out the nest, (hose it off well and set it in a tall bucket), then remove clips to pull off the top plate. Replace the o-rings and lube heavily with Silicone based lube like Magic Lube II (red label), and reassemble. WD-40 can actually eat away at the o-rings, so not recommended. You can find the $1.19 O-30 o-rings on the perflex parts page , and look at the schematic image to see how it’s assembled with the o-ring, clip and washer above and below the plates…

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Hi Dave, I have a Pentair 48ft DE fiter and after taking apart and cleaning grids, it leaks around the band. Replaced the O-ring and lubed it but it still leaks. The bolt on the band is tightened all the way which never happened before. I checked the main top and bottom parts of the filter and there are no cracks or damage. Why does the band not tighten up enough now to stop leaks?

Hi Rich, some DE filters, like Pentair FNS Plus, have a back-up ring, pn 195339, which is also called an o-ring retainer, a round metal back-plate that the o-ring sits against. It may be pushed down into the tank, or may have fallen off the top tank half, when removed. If that does not apply in your case, I would suggest replacing the o-ring.

Yeah I never saw a back plate on the O-Ring. Just the beige fiberglass shell. Not sure why the band is tightening all the way but not sealing

Rich, that could be a dangerous situation, if the lid were to blow off. Inspect the clamp band and threaded bolt and nut, and the tank sealing surfaces closely for damage. Take a look at our schematic diagrams in our parts department to see if you are missing any parts. O-rings can become smaller over time, but not usually so much as to cause your particular symptoms.

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Since I have started with a new pool maintenance company. My filter pressures have been over 30 pounds consistently. My filter is not properly primed weekly. My automatic vacuum has not worked in the past month since I have issues with the filter. I noticed recently that the lid on the filter wasn’t closed tight enough and water was dripping from where the clamp is. My trap basket was broken but the pool guy didn’t notify me. I have to inspect the filter myself and fix problems myself. Recently just after the pool guy left last Monday I noticed the vacuum wasn’t working, the pump was not primed and big air bubble were going back into the pool. I has the owner of the company come out. He noticed that all of my DE cartridges were broken including the big plastic parts. They were just replaced less than 2 years ago and my pool did not get a lot of use this summer. Could the cartridge damage be due to negligence by the company of not maintaining the filter. In addition I check the chemicals all the time and the pH has been over 9 and alkaline high for the past 2 months.

Hi Michele, yes it could be due to negligence. If you can document these issues for the owner, perhaps he would see his way clear to installing a new set of grids for you, which wouldn’t cost him more than $100, plus labor. Grids should last ten years, and collapsed grids is always a result of not backwashing often enough, not using enough DE, or deadheading the system, all items that they were supposed to prevent, presumably. Either way, I would find a new pool company, sounds like trouble…

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I cannot get the filter basket cover on my pump to move. It is loaded with pine needles blown into pool during TS Irma. Turned off pump released pressure at drain hose cock. It has probably not been removed for a year. Cannot budge it using supplied handle even smacking it with the heel of my hand.

Try also opening the air relief on the pool filter tank, and depending on what type of lid you have on the pump, you can often use other tools, some can use a 2×4, or a long rod, positioned between the upright tabs, others can use a long 2×4 with a hole cut out of the middle, or other rod or board to get leverage. Or call over a strong neighbor to help. They can really get stuck on there sometimes!

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Our Hayward sand filter was installed in May 2016 and now has a small leak in main body of the filter. Pool company says it might have to drill a hole where leak is and put in a screw. I doubt this will help for long. Is this a common concern with these new filters? Our old one lasted for years! $’s!

Hi, definitely not a common problem. A screw, sealant and gasket repair can sometimes be successful if the hole is small enough. However, it could be fail dangerously, and Hayward would recommend replacing the tank, which are not usually repairable permanently.

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i have hayward sand filter 200lb. when i vacuum i get dirty water back in the return stream almost immediately. what do i do to correct this. filter is 9 yrs. old never had a problem until now.

Thanks in advance. Mark.

Hi Mark, Probably need to change the filter sand. The issue you are having is common with sand filters, but if it was never a problem before, I would just change the sand. a product called Slime Bag is useful for just this problem, it attaches to the wall return fitting, to trap fine dirt, like a second filter.

i had already done that, and no difference. bad lateral maybe??

OK< if the problem is occurring After a sand change, and silt did not pass thru before the sand change, I would ask if you are sure you had used the correct amount of sand, and did it say Pool Filter Sand on the bag? If yes and yes, perhaps the old sand was better, or more properly sized and graded. It shouldn't be a cracked lateral, unless you are seeing sand in the pool, in addition to dust/silt. If your sand has developed 'mud-balls' (greasy deposits) or calcified in sections, that could also cause pass-thru problems. If possible, open up the tank and dig your hands into the top 4", should feel like smooth sand, not clumpy, goopy, rocky...

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Hi, My sand filter drum has two cracks in it and is spewing water. So glad I was home and heard it before too much water drained out. Can I repair those cracks with fiberglass resin? Also, we’ve had a lot of rain but filters seem clean. Whatelse could cause such pressure? Thank you.

Hi Ginny, most likely it cannot be repaired. You may slow the leak with resin, but not fix it completely, and then one day, boom, the whole tank splits and drains half the pool, or injures someone nearby. Sorry to say, filter should be replaced.

Thank you. Ugh. Any idea what could have caused pressure to go so high? We’ve had lots of rain but very little debris.

Could be bad filter sand, sometimes it can become clogged with calcium or oils. Could also be a valve on the return side (after the filter) that was closed for a second, accidentally, or the multiport valve turned while the pump was running. Or perhaps swimmers happened to block the returns (at the wall), all of them at the same time? maybe not…

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Our current Hayward filter S180T has a crack in the side and I was hoping to make it through this season before replacing. Of course there is nothing that will repair it so I’m getting ready to order a new one. We just installed a new Hayward pump this year and we went from a 1.5 HP to a 2 HP, same model as the 1.5. Is that ok to use with the S180T or do you think that could have caused the crack by getting the 2HP? The S180T is 10 years old. I want to make sure I order the right filter if I need to have something different. Our pool is a kidney shaped in ground fiberglass pool.

Hi Karen, Good question, because the S180T has a design flow rate of only 35 gpm. The 2 hp pump is likely pushing more water than that, probably over 50 gpm – you can estimate the pump flow rate, by looking at the pump “Flow Curves” on the pump spec pages, for your particular make/model and hp. For a 2 hp Hayward pump, I would suggest the S220T (22″ tank, 250 lbs sand) or the S244T (24″ tank, 300 lbs). You’ll pay more for the larger filters, but will enjoy long filter cycles, long sand life and improved water clarity.

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The water is not staying in the filter bucket. It is pouring through the lid. I am not seeing anything different about the lid, but I do realize it is MUCH easier to take on and off.

Hi Drew, make sure the lid oring is in place, on some lids they fall off, it may be laying in the dirt. Secondly, some pool oring lube could help. When water does not fill the pump pot, it is either an air leak (pump drawing air in) or it is a clogged impeller, or very clogged filter, or closed return side valves. The most common air leak is around the pump lid, must be tight – and around the threaded fitting that screws into the pump, from shrunken threads which become loose.

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Hi My Hayward extreme filter wont close fully. I have put lubricant on the threads but it seems like the o ring is possibly sticking out a small amount. It wont tighten fully and the water leaks out. IS there anything I can try or do i need to buy a new o ring? Thanks

Hi Sarah, up under the lid, check the large plastic nuts that secure the air bleeder and gauge, they may be loose, taking up space. if the o-ring appears loose, not just sticking out, but if it does not fit tight, that would cause a problem, replace with Hayward part number CCX1000G – also just cleaning and lubing the o-ring may be the trick.

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Hi. I am trying to replace a Hayward sp0714c key assembly. Do I need to drain any water? I use regular flexible hoses for my connections. Or can I simply remove screws replace key assembly and reassemble?

Hi Danny, yes just remove the screws and pull out the old key, pop-in the new key and resecure the screws. Real easy. No need to drain water, but if your pool is aboveground, and the system sits below water level, you’ll have to close the isolation valves, or plug the skimmer and return lines, to keep your socks dry…

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I have a Hayward pool filter with the top that screws down by turning the handle on top clock-wise. I have had trouble screwing it down tight lately, and now can’t do it all. Any advice?

Hi Terry, first thing I’d check is the o-ring under the lid, and the smaller o-ring on top of the lid, to be sure they are seating properly, so the lid will sit down to it’s full depth. Lube may be needed to help the lid seat correctly, or o-ring(s) may need replacement. Secondly, make sure that the other end of the steel rod, is tightened fully into the base of the filter, so that it is not sticking up too far through the lid, which would make tightening difficult. Thirdly, could be an issue with the treads on the rod or on the handle or lid lock.

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I have a Hayward cartridge filter, it is only one year old and I feel like it is not working to capacity. We got the pool last July and this year it is not cleaning the pool and we put new cartridges in but there is floating debris.

Hi Terry, the floating debris makes me think your skimmer is not working to capacity, perhaps the skimmer weir is missing, or an old skimmer pipe has collapsed, or other valves like the main drain need to be closed, to deliver more suction to the skimmer? As for the filter, if the water looks good usually, with few bouts of cloudy water or algae, blue and clear, then the filter could be said to be operating effectively (given a proper amount of daily run time). Some pools just don’t skim the surface as much as they need to, the supply does not meet the demand. In such cases, for such pools, if the skimming cannot be further optimized, then you supplement with a nice Leaf Rake, dragging the surface once per day, or as needed. Good exercise for you, too!

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Dave the case on top of thee filter that my pressure gauge screws into is cracked. What is that called and how do I replace it.

Hi Karen, normally filter lids have a air relief assembly, aka air bleeder which is a combination air release and pressure gauge adapter. They are unique to each filter, or each brand, and they attach in different ways, some have a locknut inside the tank, or some just screw into a threaded tank. some are very small, others quite large. Go to our filter parts department, and find your filter make/model, and look at the schematic, and you can find the part number, and see prices, and buy what you need — https://www.intheswim.com/c/filter-parts?pcode=208&scode=SOCIBLOG

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Hi, we have a 24 foot above ground pool. We had the liner replaced and purchased a new filter. The filter is Hayward Pro Series S210T93S 21-Inch Top-Mount Above Ground Pool Sand Filter System with 1.5-HP Matrix Pum. We now have and at the bottom of our pool. What would you recommend? Thank you in advance for your assistance!

Hi, a small amount of sand coming into the pool after a sand change, or a new filter is not unusual, especially right after start-up or backwashing. If it is continuous however, one of the laterals may be cracked or was not tightened into the hub, or possibly a cracked standpipe both would require emptying the tank to inspect… good luck!

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Pressure gage was leaking and not moving past zero replaced it today now there is water that has filled the gage and is spraying out of the face of it.

Hi Christina, might not be the correct type of (water) pressure gauge?

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I have a Hayward Pro Series 20 gallon 3.14 surface (filter on the left in pictures above). Never had an issue but its leaking alot this year when we opened and starting running the pump. The leak is coming from the bottom under the black stand. Checked all plumbing, cap is good on the drain, tiny drip from pressure gauge but that’s normal for us. Can we repair this ourselves or do we need to get a new filter?

Hi Tracey, if the tank has a crack in it, then you’d need a new filter. However, it’s very hard to check under the filter, unless you empty the sand and turn it over gently. If it is not running down the side of the filter tank, nor dribbling out of the drain plug, it must be an issue with the tank… (new filter).

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I have sand or dirt collecting on bottom of pool; I can stir it up and the pool runs constantly. where is this dirt/sand coming from.

Hi Ruby, it could be blowing in on the wind, or carried in on the feet of swimmers. If your filter is getting old, it could be filter sand (if you have a sand filter), or it could be DE powder (if…), or it could be that your filter is not trapping the dirt it once did, and needs a filter media replacement.

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I am replacing the spider gasket on the directional head. Should the smooth side of the gasket go up or down

Ah the age old question! Flat side goes down, rounded side goes up. Use some caulk or glue (just a bit) in the grooves to hold the new gasket in place.

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I have a hole in my rubber pool filter near the crease. water shoots out. When I had a metal one I just used J&B. Bought some flexible sealant product to apply. Have you seen this type of issue before?

Hi Steve, can you provide more info? I’m not sure what a rubber pool filter is…

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Hi Dave, I removed my drain plug in the fall when closing/winterizing. When I tried to replace it this spring, it would not tighten and is leaking pretty bad. It is a Hayward filter. Do I need to take the sand out and tighten it from the inside? Is there a nut on the inside? thanks, Bill

Hi Bill, if you removed the entire drain assembly, and not just the drain cap (or plug), it can be a little process to seal it back up, (while standing on yer head). Most Hayward sand filters do not have an internal separate assembly, except for S200 S240 models. Most tanks have a molded male threaded nipple with a drain cap, and o-ring or gasket. The gasket is very important, if it has gone missing. You can visit our filter parts pages , and enter your Hayward make/model to see a schematic image of the filter, which would show any locknuts or drain assembly parts.

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We have spent almost 2 weeks trying to figure out this pool filter problem. We did everything with new sand and all backwash, rinse and so on and sand is still shooting into the pool. I’m ready to blow a hole in the side of the pool. We took everything apart and see No broken laterals but the stem pipe has a small crack in it would that make for sand to go into the pool? And if so How do we change it can we use just a pvc pipe? We get to the end and something else happens. The pool is 15×30 so its decent size but I have to get the pool open and cant get the pump going. The pump is a Hayward S1667. The laterals had sand in them and were dirty. (We are pool newbies. The pool came with the house) Any help you give would be great!!! Please for the sake of 2 little girls asking everyday….Do you think we will be able to swim tomorrow? Thank You, Determined Mom & Dad

Hi, a crack in the standpipe could leak sand into the pool yes. I’m not sure of the diameter on the standpipe, but I have repaired some in the past with regular PVC pipe, and a coupling – or you could replace the standpipe and lateral assembly SX164DA – ugh too expensive, I think you can make a repair with pvc glue and a coupling or something…

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I vacuumed on backwash now I get short Cycles

Hi, debris gets stuck inside of sand laterals or de grids, when you vacuum on backwash, so short cycling is not surprising. I would try using a Filter Cleaner chemical, and then backwashing for a long time, maybe 15 minutes. If that doesn’t work, you may need to do a tear down to clean out or replace the grids or laterals.

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Haywood filter runs with high pressure – even with the pump off gauge is reading 22.

When in backwash mode – water discharge is not running as strong as previous.

Replaced the sand and still same issue.

Any ideas what could be causing this and what I should do to correct.

Hi Jim, broken pressure gauge – if it still reads 22 when pump is off. Flick the lens with your fingernail, and look closely, the dial face may be bent, and touching the needle.

1. you did use “pool filter sand”, and not something else, right? 2. Not enough sand added, most tanks are filled 2/3 full, but check manuf data for correct fill, in lbs. 3. Heavy oils, or heavy minerals, clogging the sand bed. inspect sand with your hands, but if new sand, and water has been clear… 4. clogged laterals, the slotted pipes in the bottom of the tank, minerals, oil or debris could be clogging the tiny slits 5. clogged return line, pipe, valve, or too small of an eyeball on return fittings, but that would not explain low backwash pressure… 6. Problems with the multiport valve, internal flow issues

Any restriction after the pump impeller will raise the filter pressure. If you have heaters, chlorinators, salt cells, sensors, valves or check valves after the filter, these all could be clogged or potentially be causing the ‘back-pressure’. Be sure all wall returns are open and all return valves open.

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Sounds crazy but none of my valve functions are doing what they say they should. The filter is actually going to waste and recirculate is backwash and waste is filtering. What the heck is going on!?

Hi Margie, 3 things come to mind – 1. If the valve was recently removed or replaced, are the plumbing pipes correct? The pipe from the pump should run to the port labeled PUMP, and the return pipe, going to a heater or back to the pool, should be connected into the RETURN port. Or, #2, was the ‘key assembly’ (handle, lid, rotor) removed from the valve body, and then replaced in an incorrect position? Or 3., was the valve spring and under cover parts replaced, and the lid not installed over the rotor in the same orientation as before? If none of these things, then open up the valve by removing all of the cover screws and lifting up on the handle, and inspect the spider gasket, and rotor (aka footpad or diverter) for damage.

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Hi Mr. Merino, The head on my regent 450 will not screw on to the locked position with out using a block of wood and hammer. Any idea’s?

Hi there, I’m not familiar with the Regent – but if that’s a filter, sometimes filter lids, especially those with very thick o-rings, need some persuasion to fit. Keeping the o-ring lubed will help, and if it seems distended (stretched), if it doesn’t fit tightly, you can shave off a 1/4″ or so, by cutting cleanly with a razor knife and super-gluing the ends together. Or just replace the o-ring, if needed.

I replaced the o-ring (lubed new one with Jacks) last night. All is well. Thank You

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Our new pool filter leaks around the head only when on filter any suggestions

Hi Jolene, that may indicate that the return pipes, after the filter, are restricted or too small for the water flow, perhaps? Check that all wall return plugs are out of the wall, and there are no closed valves on the return side, after the filter. Also check that the filter valve was plumbed correctly, with the pipe from the pump connecting into the PUMP port, and the return pipe connected into the RETURN port. and of course check tightness of all bolts or clamps. Not sure what type of filter you have…

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purchased and replaced a new multiport valve. Valve works good on all settings except backwash and rinse. When on those settings it’s like there is no suction- no water comes out the waste line. Although, when placed on the waste setting, water goes through the waste line fine.

Hi Chris, not plumbed backwards is it? The pipe ports labeled PUMP and RETURN, are connected to the Pump and the Return line, no? No extra valve on the waste line that you have to open? Did you disassemble the valve at all (remove the lid or key assy) before installation, and maybe reattached it in a different orientation? If not those things, I’m stumped! I’ll keep thinking…

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threads on the filter drain are worn,cap dosent seal tight,water drips ,tried plumbers tape didnt help much.any way to rethread them

Yes, usually Teflon tape is the trick. Make sure the cap is not cracked. If the threads are molded into the tank, well that’s a problem, unless you have a very large and complete tap & die set. If the drain assembly is removable from the tank, you can replace that part. On some filter drains, you may be able to fit a small expansion plug, like a #2 or #4 winterizing plug, to seal it up – but, it could blow out when the filter gets dirty. You could also plug up the hole with a heavy bead of silicone perhaps, although that may also fail, and end up draining the pool…

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I bought this sand filter from in the swim. The seam cracked exactly 1 year and 1week after purchase. I ran pool on bypas for part of last season. I hate to buy another Hayward filter if this is their lifespan. Original filter lasted 14 years and only replaced it because parts for head were no longer available. Would like to repair cracked seam.

Hi Clifford, there is no way to successfully or safely repair a cracked filter tank, unfortunately. The problem you have experienced is rare, and is usually caused by a dead-head on the return side (accidentally closed valve), or a pump that is too powerful for the filter size. I couldn’t say that it is a reflection on Hayward quality, their reputation for sand filters is quite good. But filters can fail occasionally. Pentair also makes a fine top-mount filter, with the Tagelus series sand filters, or the Sand Dollar, but I wouldn’t say they are better, or worse – both fine filters.

[…] with bulkhead unions, for sand and DE filters. Multiports are full featured, but may require Multiport Valve repairs from time to time. We have a full selection of multiport valve parts, and filter valve rebuild […]

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How to Remove a Hayward Pool Filter Lid

Things you'll need.

Screwdriver

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Hayward pool products are very popular with consumers for their ease of use and maintenance. Hayward offers three basic types of pool filters, DE (diatomaceous earth), sand and cartridge. All three Hayward filters have similar lids attached to the filter tank where the water is filtered and stored. As the filter becomes dirty, it's important to know how to remove the lid to ensure you can clean it properly.

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Unplug the pool pump's electrical cord from the electrical outlet. This will prevent any potential for electric shock while working on the filter.

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Turn the valve on the bottom of the pool skimmer to "closed" to stop the water flow into the pump and filter.

Relieve the pressure within the filter tank by opening the drain plug, located on the bottom right side of the Hayward filter.

Determine the type of Hayward filter you are working with. For a cartridge filter, simply depress the latches on the top of the filter tank. For DE and sand filters, use a wrench to loosen and remove the bolts securing the lid in place. All Hayward filters are equipped with a locking ring. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the locking ring. The locking ring will pop off once loosened.

Slide the locking ring off the filter. Slowly lift the filter lid off of the filter body. The inside of the filter tank will now be revealed.

  • Hayward Pool Products: Pool Filter Information
  • Hayward Pool Products: Pool Filter Owner's Manual

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I have a standard swim pro voyager cartridge filter system for a above ground pool, I do not know if its a 1750 or a 2000.

3 times in the last month the lock ring has split, all the pipes and hoses from filter to pool running through the heater and the chemical feeder are clean and clear, yet somehow the big plastic lock ring splits. What would be causing the pressure to blow this piece to bits?

We’d be glad to assist you. What is the pressure reading on the filter gauge when the pump is running? Is the cartridge clean? Are all the valves open and is water returning to the pool like normal?

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  • FLOATING CHLORINATORS/BROMINATORS
  • BLUE WHITE CHEMICAL FEED PUMPS
  • COMPOOL CONTROL SYSTEMS
  • JACUZZI MASTERMIND
  • INTERMATIC TIMERS
  • INTERMATIC TIME CLOCK PARTS
  • JANDY AQUALINK POWER CENTERS
  • JANDY AQUALINK PDA
  • JANDY AQUALINK POWER CENTER
  • JANDY AQUALINK TOUCH
  • JANDY AQUALINK WIRELESS ONE TOUCH
  • JANDY AQUALINK AQUAPALM
  • PARAGON & PRECISION CONTROLS
  • PENTAIR SUNTOUCH CONTROL
  • PENTAIR EASYTOUCH
  • PENTAIR INTELLITOUCH
  • POLARIS EOS CONTROLLER
  • JANDY CONTROLS
  • LEN GORDON CONTROL SYSTEM
  • DECK FLANGES
  • DECK ANCHOR WEDGES
  • DECK ANCHOR ESCUTCHEONS
  • DECK JETS - JANDY
  • DECK JETS - PENTAIR
  • DECK JETS - CUSTOM MOLDED PRODUCTS
  • DIVING BOARDS & STANDS
  • JANDY SHEER DESCENT
  • FILL SPOUTS
  • LADDER WEDGES
  • NOSQUEETO INSECT MISTING SYSTEM
  • SOLAR REELS - CANTAR
  • SOLAR REELS - G. L. I. PRODUCTS
  • SOLAR REELS - HORIZON
  • SOLAR REELS - ODYSSEY M400
  • SOLAR REELS - ODYSSEY M600S2
  • SOLAR REELS - ODYSSEY M700S2
  • SOLAR REELS - ODYSSEY 818 / 824 / 828
  • SOLAR REELS - ODYSSEY EMX
  • SOLAR REELS - LESLIES
  • SOLAR REELS - OLYMPIC
  • SOLAR REELS - FEHERGUARD
  • UNDERWATER MAGIC
  • FENCING - ABOVE GROUND
  • FENCING - IN GROUND
  • ALARMS - POOLGUARD
  • SOLAR HEATERS - G.A.M.E. SOLAR PRO
  • ROPE ANCHORS
  • SOLAR HEATERS - SMART POOL
  • BLUE WHITE FLOWMETERS
  • CRISTAL-FLO UNION PACKAGE
  • BARB ADAPTERS
  • CPVC NIPPLES
  • DRAIN VALVES
  • FITTING PIPE AND FITTING EXTENDERS
  • HOSE ADAPTERS
  • HOSE CLAMPS
  • NO HUB COUPLINGS
  • PIPE PLUGS - THREADED
  • REDUCER BUSHINGS
  • SPA DRAIN & ON/OFF VALVES FOR GARDEN HOSE
  • STREET ELLS - 45° & 90°
  • FLUSH UNION
  • FULL-FLO SELF-ALIGNING UNIONS
  • PUMP AND CHLORINATOR UNIONS
  • C & R SPECIALTIES
  • STANDARD HEATER UNION COMPONENTS - 1½"
  • STANDARD HEATER UNION COMPONENTS - 1½"
  • STANDARD HEATER UNION COMPONENTS - 2"
  • SELF ALIGNING UNION
  • STANDARD TYPE UNIONS
  • UNION PARTS
  • LETRO INLINE THERMOMETER BY PENTAIR
  • EXTEND-ALL FITTING
  • KWIK REPAIR
  • PASCO RAM BIT
  • 1 ½" UNION COMPONENTS
  • 1 ½" UNION COMPONENTS
  • 1 ½" UNION COMPONENTS
  • 1" UNION COMPONENTS
  • 2" UNION COMPONENTS
  • 2½" UNION COMPONENTS
  • 2½" UNION COMPONENTS
  • 2½" UNION COMPONENTS
  • OZONE TUBING
  • PLUMBING TUBING
  • PVC FLEX PIPE
  • 1 ½" BUTTRESS & THREADS
  • 1 ½" BUTTRESS & THREADS
  • 1" BUTTRESS & THREADS
  • 2 ½" BUTTRESS & THREADS
  • 2" BUTTRESS & THREADS
  • SPECIAL THREAD ADAPTORS
  • USEFUL UNION TOOLS
  • UNIVERSAL UNIONS
  • WINTERIZING PLUGS
  • CUSTOM MOLDED PRODUCTS
  • DYNA-GLAS & DYNA-MAX SERIES UNIONS
  • CHLORINE GENERATORS
  • LOCKING PLATE
  • POOL CLEANER
  • SAND FILTER
  • WATER TREATMENT
  • SAFETY VACUUM RELEASE SYSTEMS
  • TRIODYNE SAFETY SYSTEMS
  • DECK DRAINS
  • MAIN DRAINS - A & A MANUFACTURING
  • MAIN DRAINS - AFRAS
  • MAIN DRAINS - AQUASTAR
  • MAIN DRAINS - CUSTOM MOLDED PRODUCTS
  • MAIN DRAINS - HAYWARD
  • MAIN DRAINS - OLYMPIC
  • MAIN DRAIN TOOLS - POOL TOOLS
  • MAIN DRAINS - PARAMOUNT RETROFIT
  • MAIN DRAINS - PENTAIR STARGUARD
  • POLARIS/ZODIAC UNIBRIDGE
  • MAIN DRAINS - WATERWAY
  • DRAINSAFE MAIN DRAIN RETROFIT COVERS
  • INLET SAFETY VAC LOCKS
  • INLET FITTINGS - CMP
  • INLET FITTINGS - ECO-BLUE
  • INLET FITTINGS - HAYWARD
  • INLET FITTINGS - INFUSION
  • INLET FITTINGS - STA-RITE
  • INLET FITTINGS - KAFKO
  • K-D POOLS COMPONENTS
  • G.A.M.E. ACCESSORIES
  • HAYWARD LEAF CANISTER
  • HAYWARD SKIMMER VACUUM PLATE
  • LEAF VACS -Various Makes
  • RAINBOW LEAF TRAP - Model 180
  • RAINBOW LEAF TRAP 179/ 179C
  • RAINBOW LEAF TRAP 186
  • PENTAIR/RAINBOW VAC MATE
  • POLARIS WATER STARS
  • GAME SPA & POOL VACUUM
  • POLARIS SPA WAND MODEL 5-100-00
  • RAINBOW SPA VAC - MODEL 204
  • RAINBOW SWIVEL WHEEL FLEX VAC
  • RAINBOW HYDRO - SKIM
  • THERMOMETERS
  • VAC POLE PARTS
  • MISC. VAC PARTS
  • HAYWARD VACS
  • RAINBOW VACS
  • FLEX VAC HEADS
  • PRO VAC - RAINBOW
  • SUPER PRO VAC - MODEL 241
  • VACUUM HOSE REPAIR KIT
  • MUSKIN POOL COMPONENTS
  • O-RINGS AND GASKETS
  • HAYWARD DIVERTER VALVES
  • JANDY CHECK & DIVERTER VALVES
  • JANDY DIVERTER VALVES
  • PENTAIR DIVERTER VALVES
  • AMERICAN PRODUCTS 2 & 3 WAY VALVES
  • JANDY SPA VALVES
  • PENTAIR CHECK VALVES
  • CUSTOM MOLDED PRODUCTS VALVES
  • FLO CONTROL CHECK VALVES
  • HAYWARD BALL VALVES
  • HYDRO AIR/BALBOA SPA VALVES
  • MAGIC PLASTICS VALVES
  • PENTAIR VALVE ACTUATORS
  • PENTAIR/ORTEGA VALVES
  • WATERWAY SPA VALVES
  • MAGIC PLASTICS PLUMBING
  • PLUMBING MISC PARTS
  • PRESSURE GAUGE
  • SPECIALTY ITEMS
  • SOLAR COVERS
  • Balboa Misc Parts
  • CIRCUIT BOARD KIT
  • CIRCUIT BOARDS
  • ACC CIRCUIT BOARDS
  • CAL SPA CIRCUIT BOARDS
  • CALDERA CIRCUIT BOARDS
  • COLEMAN/MAAX CIRCUIT BOARDS
  • CONSUMER ENGINEERING CIRCUIT BOARDS
  • CTI CIRCUIT BOARDS
  • MARQUIS SPA CIRCUIT BOARDS
  • MASTER SPA CIRCUIT BOARDS
  • PENTAIR COMMERCIAL CONTROL
  • OPTIONAL ADD-ONS
  • COVER LIFT EXTENDER
  • COVER LIFT PART
  • BATH CONTROL
  • CIRCUIT BOARD
  • DOCKING STATION
  • EXTENSION BOARD
  • FLOW SWITCH KIT
  • HARNESS ADAPTER
  • HEATER ASSEMBLY
  • KEYING CABLE
  • LED LIGHTING
  • LIGHT HARNESS
  • MODULE INTERNET
  • MOUNTING BRACKET
  • PANEL HOUSING
  • PRESSURE SWITCH
  • PRESSURE SWITCH HARNESS
  • SANITIZING SYSTEM
  • SEQUENCER CONTROL
  • SEQUENCER SYSTEM
  • SLIDE VALVE
  • SPA CONTROL
  • TRANSFORMER
  • DRYWELL ASSEMBLY
  • FLOW SWITCH CABLE
  • OUTDOOR CONTROL SYSTEM
  • SENSOR MOUNT
  • AIR CONTROL
  • BLOWER ASSIST TEE
  • IGNITION CONTROL
  • JET BODY NUT
  • JET DIFFUSER
  • JET INTERNAL
  • MULTIPORT VALVE
  • WALL FITTING
  • WIRE HARNESS
  • FILTER CARTRIDGE
  • AIR BLOWER CORDS
  • AIR CHECK VALVE 1/4" PSI SPRING
  • AIR SUPPLY ULTRA 9000
  • ANZEN/POLARIS METAL BLOWER
  • DELUXE PLASTIC BLOWER
  • GECKO - BATH - AIR.WAV BLOWERS
  • GECKO - SPA - AIR.WAV BLOWERS
  • POLARIS QT BLOWER
  • SIDE MOUNT BLOWER
  • THERM PRODUCTS
  • WATERWAY "SANTANA" BLOWER
  • WATERWAY "STEALTH" BLOWER
  • ZODIAC AIR BLOWERS
  • AIR SUPPLY MAX AIR
  • HYDRO QUIP AIR BLOWERS
  • REPLACEMENT BLOWER MOTORS
  • LEN GORDON AIR BUTTONS
  • MARTEC AIR BUTTON
  • HERGA AIR ACTUATORS
  • CUSTOM MOLDED PRODUCTS AIR CONTROLS
  • HYDRO AIR CONTROLS
  • WATERWAY AIR CONTROLS
  • WATERWAY AIR INJECTORS
  • HYDRO AIR GUNITE MICRO'SSAGE
  • WATERWAY POLY GUNITE JET
  • WATERWAY POLY STORM GUNITE SPA JET
  • 5 POINT SCALLOP
  • 5" INTERNAL
  • 5" MATRIX SPA JET SERIES
  • 500 SERIES - 5" FACE
  • 500 SERIES TYPHOON JETS - SCALLOPED, 5" FACE
  • 7" JUMBO JET
  • 7"INTERNAL
  • 8" & 6" AQUA FALL
  • ADJUSTABLE CLUSTER JET BODIES
  • ADJUSTABLE CLUSTER JET INTERNALS
  • ADJUSTABLE MINI JET BODIES
  • ADJUSTABLE MINI JET INTERNALS
  • AMERICAN PRODUCTS AQUA FAN
  • AMERICAN PRODUCTS DIVERTER JET
  • AMERICAN PRODUCTS LUXURY MICRO JETS
  • BALBOA/PENTAIR EURO CYCLONE JET
  • CHROME POLYSTORM INTERNALS
  • CLUSTER STORM JETS
  • HAYWARD JET AIR III
  • HYDRO AIR 10-5100
  • HYDRO AIR ADJUSTABLE VSR JET
  • HYDRO AIR BATH JETS
  • HYDRO AIR BUTTERFLY JET
  • HYDRO AIR CAGED FREEDOM SERIES
  • HYDRO AIR HYDRO' SSAGE
  • HYDRO AIR MAGNA SERIES FOR SPAS
  • HYDRO AIR MARK II 10-5860
  • HYDRO AIR MICRO'SSAGE 16-5200
  • HYDRO AIR THERA' SSAGE
  • HYDRO AIR VERTA'SSAGE
  • JACUZZI CLASSIC SERIES
  • JACUZZI HT & WHT SERIES
  • JACUZZI SWIM JET PSJ / CSJ SERIES
  • JUMBO JET BODIES
  • JUMBO JET INTERNALS
  • JUMBO STORM JET
  • MASTER MASSAGE JET
  • MEGA STORM JET
  • MINI STORM JET BODIES
  • OZONE / CLUSTER JET BODIES
  • OZONE / CLUSTER JET INTERNALS
  • OZONE / CLUSTER JET OPTIONS & PARTS
  • POLYJET BODIES
  • POLYJET INTERNALS
  • POLYJET OPTIONS & PARTS
  • POLYSTORM BODIES
  • POWER STORM BODIES
  • POWER STORM OPTIONS & GASKETS
  • PRO JET BATH JETS
  • SMOOTH FACE
  • SMOOTH POLYSTORM INTERNALS
  • STANDARD MINI SERIES BATH JETS
  • ULTRA BLASTER
  • VERSA BATH JET
  • WATERWAY TURBO JET
  • WATERWAY RIVER JET
  • 400 SERIES-4"FACE
  • BALBOA/PENTAIR CYCLONE MICRO JET
  • 400 SERIES TYPHOON JETS - SCALLOPED, 4" FACE
  • BALBOA/PENTAIR LARGE CYCLONE JET
  • 300 SERIES TYPHOON JETS - SCALLOPED, 3" FACE
  • BALBOA/PENTAIR MICRO CYCLONE II JET
  • 300 SERIES - 3" FACE - WAVE SERIES
  • BALBOA/PENTAIR LUXURY CYCLONE JET
  • 3.5" MATRIX SPA JET SERIES
  • BALBOA/PENTAIR SUPER CYCLONE JET
  • 200 SERIES TYPHOON JETS - SCALLOPED, 2" FACE
  • STRIP SKIMMERS - WATERWAY
  • STRIP SKIMMERS - WATERWAY DELUXE
  • SUCTION FITTINGS - WATERWAY
  • SUCTION FITTINGS FOR SKIMMER EQUALIZER
  • COMPLETE SPA JETS
  • JET INTERNALS
  • LEN GORDON MM SERIES
  • LEN GORDON TF SERIES
  • HYDROQUIP SOLID STATE OUTDOOR SYSTEMS
  • HEAT TRANSFER CONTROL
  • ELECTRONIC SPA SYSTEMS
  • ELECTRONIC SPA PACKS
  • ELECTRONIC SPA CONTROLS
  • ELECTRONIC OUTDOOR SPA PACKS
  • ELECTRONIC OUTDOOR CONTROL SYSTEMS
  • ELECTRONIC LO-FLO SPA CONTROLS
  • ELECTRONIC CONTROL SYSTEMS
  • AIR BUTTON SPA PACKS
  • AS-MULTI COMBO-95
  • 120 VOLT CONTROL WITH GFCI CORD
  • 120 VOLT/ 240 VOLT CONVERTIBLE
  • CS800-A2 120 VOLT CONTROL
  • CS800-B2 & C2, 240 VOLT CONTROLS
  • BASIC ON/OFF CONTROLS
  • LEN GORDON FOUR FUNCTION CONTROLS
  • AIR SWITCHES, MAINTAINED CONTACT
  • AIR SWITCHES, MOMENTARY CONTACT
  • CONTACTORS, FUSES, LIGHTS
  • HYDROQUIP UNIVERSAL AMP CORDS
  • GECKO CORDS
  • FLOW SWITCHES
  • HIGH LIMIT SWITCHES
  • GROUND FAULT CIRCUIT
  • HYDROQUIP CORDS
  • PRESSURE SWITCHES - LEN GORDON
  • PRESSURE SWITCHES - TRIDELTA
  • PRESSURE SWITCH - DTEC
  • RELAY - LATCHING
  • ROCKER & TOGGLE SWITCHES
  • STEPPER SWITCHES
  • THERMOSTATS
  • THERMOWELLS
  • TIME CLOCKS
  • VACUUM SWITCH - PRES:AIR:TROL
  • COVER ROLLER
  • EXTENSION CABLE
  • SPASIDE CONTROL
  • GECKO SPASIDE CONTROL PANELS
  • SPASIDE CONTROL ACCESSORIES
  • ADAPTER PLATE
  • EQUIPMENT SYSTEM
  • KEYPAD GASKET
  • COMPOOL/PENTAIR TOPSIDES
  • JANDY TOPSIDES
  • GECKO M-CLASS SPASIDE CONTROLS
  • GECKO S-CLASS SPASIDE CONTROL PANELS
  • HYDROQUIP AIR BUTTON SPASIDE PANELS
  • LEN GORDON SPASIDE CONTROLS
  • RAMCO TOPSIDE CONTROLS
  • SPA BUILDERS SPASIDE CONTROLS
  • RETRO FITTING LEN GORDON & OTHER CONTROLS
  • LIGHT COVER
  • ADAPTER CORD
  • AIR CONTROL JACKET
  • AIR INJECTOR
  • AMP CONNECTOR
  • CABINET DOOR LOCK
  • CHECK VALVE
  • CIRCUIT BREAKER
  • CIRCUIT CHIP
  • CONNECTOR PIN
  • DIVERTER VALVE
  • DRAIN COVER
  • EMBLEM KNOB
  • FLOW SWITCH
  • FOOT BRACKET
  • HEATER CONNECTION BOX
  • HEATER ELEMENT
  • HEATER FOAM WRAP
  • JET ASSEMBLY
  • JET ORIFICE
  • LIFT HINGE KIT
  • LIGHT CONTROL
  • MAGNETIC SEALED
  • PRESSURE SWITCH CABLE
  • REPAIR SLEEVE
  • RETAINING RING
  • ROTOR GATE ASSEMBLY
  • RUBBER COLLAR
  • SENSOR PLUG
  • SKIMMER BODY
  • STRIKE PLATE
  • SUCTION CUP PAD
  • SUCTION GRATE
  • T-VALVE BODY
  • TOGGLE SWITCH
  • UV QUARTZ TUBE
  • VALVE HANDLE
  • VALVE STEM SPACER
  • VALVE SYSTEM ASSEMBLY
  • WATERFALL BODY
  • ADJUSTABLE MINI JET BODY
  • AIR COMPONENTS
  • ALIGNING RING
  • BLUETOOTH KIT ASSY
  • BODY ASSEMBLY
  • DIVERTER PLATE
  • DIVERTER VALVE HANDLE
  • DRAIN ASSEMBLY
  • DRAIN FITTING
  • DRAIN VALVE
  • EQUIPMENT BASE
  • ESCUTHCHEON
  • EYEBALL FITTING
  • EYEBALL INLET INSERT
  • FILTER ASSEMBLY
  • FILTER BASKET ASSEMBLY
  • FILTER BODY
  • FILTER MOUNTING PLATE
  • FILTER NICHE
  • FILTER WEIR
  • FLOOR DRAIN
  • FLOW-THRU HEATER
  • GROMMET GASKET
  • JET CAGED BACK
  • JET DIVERTER
  • JET EXTENSION NOZZLE KIT
  • JET FRONT CAGE
  • JET INTERNAL WEAR RING
  • JET MANIFOLD ASSEMBLY
  • JET NOZZLE TREE
  • JET REDUCER NOZZLE
  • JET VENTURI TEE
  • LIGHT ASSEMBLY
  • LIGHT LENS KIT
  • LO-PROFILE BODY
  • LO-PROFILE CAP
  • ON/OFF VALVE
  • OZONE INJECTOR
  • PUMP MOUNT BASE
  • RESTRICTION TUBE
  • RETAINER RING
  • RETURN FITTING
  • RUBBER GROMMET
  • SELF ALIGNING RING
  • SKIM FILTER
  • SKIMMER PLATE
  • SPA VENT ASSEMBLY
  • STEM ASSEMBLY
  • STRIP SKIMMER
  • SUCTION ASSEMBLY
  • SUCTION COVER
  • SUCTION FITTING
  • SUCTION GASKET
  • SUCTION GROMMET
  • SUCTION WALL FITTING
  • TOP-FLO CAP
  • TOPSIDE CONTROL
  • UNION ADAPTER
  • VALVE COVER
  • VALVE FLAPPER
  • VALVE GASKET
  • VALVE PLUNGER
  • VALVE SLEEVE
  • WALL FITTING ASSEMBLY
  • WALL FITTING DRAIN
  • WALL FITTING RETAINER PLATE
  • WEIR DOOR HINGE
  • WEIR HOUSING
  • ADVANTAGE MANUFACTURING
  • AMERICAN PRODUCTS
  • ASTRAL SENA
  • BAKER HYDRO
  • CLAYTON - LAMBERT
  • HERCULES/JACUZZI/ SPLASH PAK
  • KAFKO/EQUATOR
  • KING TECHNOLOGY
  • PENTAIR/PAC
  • PENTAIR/PUREX
  • PENTAIR/RAINBOW
  • PENTAIR/STA-RITE/SWIMQUIP
  • SEASON MASTER/AQUA SPORTS
  • SWIMQUIP/STA-RITE
  • ULTRA SCREEN
  • WET INSTITUTE
  • CURRENT CM3 MODELS
  • OLDER & CURRENT MODELS
  • OLDER MODELS CM301 & CM601
  • PLASTIC CONTROL BOX
  • COMPUPOOL SALT CELLS
  • COMPLETE CHLORINATORS
  • FLOATING CHLORINATORS
  • POWERCLEAN MINI - AG POOLS
  • ECLIPSE 1, 2, & 4
  • PARTS - BIG DIPPER, ECLIPSE, TOTAL ECLIPSE
  • TOTAL ECLIPSE 2 & 4
  • DEL OZONE OZONATOR BULBS
  • BIG DIPPER CORONA DISCHARGE
  • MCD - 50 HIGH OUT PUT
  • SPA ECLIPSE, DUAL VOLTAGE
  • DEL OZONE/SALT SYSTEM
  • EA-3H SERIES
  • EA-4H SERIES
  • E-Z CLOR FEEDER
  • ECOMATIC SALT CELLS
  • GECKO IN.CLEAR BROMINE SYSTEM
  • HAYWARD 100 SERIES FEEDERS
  • HAYWARD 200 SERIES FEEDERS
  • HAYWARD CHEMICAL FEEDERS
  • COMPLETE INLINE CHLORINATORS
  • OFFLINE ABOVE GROUND VERSIONS
  • OFFLINE VERSIONS
  • HAYWARD SALT AND SWIM
  • HAYWARD SWIMPURE/NATURE 2 CARTS
  • E-COMMAND/E-COMMAND 4
  • PRO LOGIC/AQUA PLUS
  • SENSE & DISPENSE
  • HYDROTECH, GUARDEX, BIOLAB BROMINATOR
  • JANDY AQUAPURE Ei
  • KING INSTANT FROG MINERAL PURIFIER
  • KING NEW WATER FEEDER 400/600 & FROG
  • KING NEW WATER/ PERFORMAX FEEDER & FROG
  • KING PERFORM-MAX FEEDERS
  • KING TECHNOLOGY BROMINE FEEDER
  • KING TECHNOLOGY/POOL FROG & PERFORM-MAX
  • LEISURE TIME
  • MA CHLORINATOR
  • INJECTOR REBUILD KITS
  • OLYMPIC CHLORINATOR
  • CHECK VALVES
  • OZONE TUBING, CLAMPS, & ADAPTERS
  • POOL OZONATOR
  • SPA OZONATOR
  • PARAMOUNT OZONATOR
  • PENTAIR INTELLICHLOR
  • PENTAIR RAINBOW BROMINE FEEDER
  • PENTAIR RAINBOW FEEDERS
  • PENTAIR RAINBOW IN-LINE FEEDERS
  • PERMA-CAST TECHNODE
  • POLARIS - AUTOCLEAR
  • POLARIS OZONATORS - IN GROUND POOL
  • POLARIS/WATERMATIC G-1000 FEEDER
  • POLARIS/WATERMATIC G-1000/G-7500 FEEDER
  • POLARIS/WATERMATIC G-7500 FEEDER
  • PROZONE CSS12 0Z0NE/SALT SYSTEM
  • PROZONE CSS5 0Z0NE/SALT SYSTEM
  • PROZONE MICROPURE OZONE DIFFUSER
  • PROZONE OZONATORS - POOL
  • PROZONE OZONATORS - SPA
  • PROZONE V-3 INJECTORS
  • RAINBOW FEEDER ACCESSORIES
  • RAINBOW FLOATING FEEDERS
  • ROLA-CHEM ORP/PH COMPONENTS
  • ROLA-CHEM PERISTALTIC PUMP
  • STENNER CHECK VALVE PARTS
  • STENNER FEED RATE CONTROL PARTS
  • STENNER QUICK PRO PUMP HEADS
  • STENNER TUBE HOUSING PARTS
  • ULTRA PURE AIR FLOW & TEST KITS
  • ULTRA PURE POOL OZONATORS
  • ULTRA PURE SPA OZONATORS
  • UNICLOR CHLORINE GENERATOR
  • WATERCO WATERKING CHLORINATOR
  • WATERWAY CLEARWATER CHLORINATORS
  • INLINE VERSIONS CURRENT STYLE
  • MODEL CAG004-W
  • OFF LINE VERSIONS
  • ZINC SACRIFICIAL ANODES
  • ZODIAC CLEARWATER C-SERIES
  • ZODIAC DUOCLEAR
  • ZODIAC LM3 SERIES
  • ZODIAC NATURE 2 CARTRIDGES
  • ZODIAC NATURE 2 EXPRESS
  • ZODIAC NATURE 2 FUSION INGROUND
  • ZODIAC NATURE 2 FUSION SOFT VESSEL
  • ZODIAC NATURE 2 PRO G SANITIZER
  • ZODIAC NATURE 2 SANITIZERS
  • ZODIAC NATURE II
  • AQUA KING COMMANDER CONTROL BOX
  • AQUA VAC BAGS
  • MISCELLANEOUS
  • AQUA KING LP
  • AQUA KING LP SWIVEL ASSEMBLY
  • A & A MANUFACTURING
  • AQUA KING COMMANDER SWIVEL ASSEMBLY
  • Dolphin Nautilus CC Pro Robot Cleaner
  • AQUA PRINCE
  • AQUATRON AQUAMAX MAGNUM
  • AQUA QUEEN / VINYL QUEEN
  • AQUA VAC 1500
  • A & A MANUFACTURING CLEANING HEADS
  • AQUA QUEEN / VINYL QUEEN / AQUA VAC 1500
  • HAYWARD/AQUAVAC TIGERSHARK
  • ARNESON POOL SWEEP I
  • ARNESON POOL SWEEP I & II
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC - ALPHA 2
  • BARACUDA MARS
  • BARACUDA - WAHOO
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC - BETA
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC 1500
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC ACCESSORIES
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC ALPHA 3 & ALPHA 3 PLUS
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC DIAPHRAGMS
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC G-4
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC G-2
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC G3
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC MANTA IN GROUND
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC MARS HP
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC MX8
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC PACER
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC RANGER
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC S3 ROBOTIC CLEANER
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC T5 DUO
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC WAHOO
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC X7 QUATTRO
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC Zippy
  • BARACUDA/ZODIAC ZOOM
  • CARETAKER IN-FLOOR CLEANERS
  • CARETAKER ULTRAFLEX 2 BY POLARIS
  • CARETAKER ULTRAFLEX VALVE BY POLARIS
  • CARETAKER VINYL CARE BY POLARIS
  • CARETAKER WATER VALVE BY POLARIS
  • DIRT DEVIL - D-1000
  • DIRT DEVIL - D-2000
  • DIRT DEVIL - HYDRO VAC
  • HAYWARD AQUABUG
  • HAYWARD AQUADROID
  • HAYWARD AQUADROID ELITE
  • HAYWARD DIVER DAVE/WANDA THE WHALE
  • HAYWARD KINGRAY
  • HAYWARD NAVIGATOR
  • HAYWARD PHANTOM/PHANTOM TURBO
  • HAYWARD POOL VAC
  • HAYWARD POOL VAC & NAVIGATOR
  • HAYWARD POOL VAC ULTRA
  • HAYWARD POOL VAC XL
  • HAYWARD SHARK VAC
  • HAYWARD SHARK VAC XL
  • HAYWARD SUNRAY
  • HAYWARD VIPER & VII0 TURBO
  • JACUZZI TRACKER
  • JANDY RAY VAC - Gunite Head
  • JANDY RAY VAC - Hose Assembly
  • JANDY RAY VAC - Vinyl/Fiberglass Head
  • JANDY RAY VAC ACCESSORIES
  • KREEPY E-Z VAC
  • KREEPY E-Z VAC & KREEPY KADET ACCESSORIES
  • KREEPY KRAULY - '93 and Prior
  • KREEPY KRAULY - '94 to ˜99
  • KREEPY KRAULY - '94 TO CURRENT
  • KREEPY KRAULY 2000 TO CURRENT
  • KREEPY KRAULY LEGEND
  • KREEPY KRAULY THRUSTER
  • LESLIES MERLIN CLEANER
  • BOTTOM LID ASSY
  • CADDIES FOR DOLPHIN CLEANERS
  • DOLPHIN ADVANTAGE
  • DOLPHIN COMMANDER
  • DOLPHIN DX4
  • DOLPHIN EXPLORER
  • DOLPHIN HEAVY DUTY
  • DOLPHIN INTERACTIVE
  • MAYTRONICS - COMMERCIAL
  • DOLPHIN ORION
  • DOLPHIN DX3
  • MAYTRONICS DOLPHIN 2002
  • MAYTRONICS DOLPHIN DIAGNOSTIC 3001
  • POWER CABLE
  • POWER SUPPLY
  • REMOTE CONTROL
  • PARAMOUNT RETROJET UNIVERSAL/IN-FLOOR
  • PCC2000 & PV3 POP UP HEAD INTERNALS
  • VANTAGE & CYCLEAN POP UP HEAD INTERNALS
  • PARAMOUNT WATER VALVES
  • LETRO BOOSTER PUMP - OLDER STYLE
  • PENTAIR JET VAC
  • PENTAIR KREEPY KRAULY LEGEND II
  • PENTAIR KRUISER
  • PENTAIR LEGEND - Head
  • PENTAIR LEGEND - Hose Assembly
  • PENTAIR LEGEND II
  • PENTAIR LEGEND PLATINUM
  • PENTAIR PROWLER 710
  • PENTAIR PROWLER 720 & 730
  • PENTAIR SANDSHARK
  • PENTAIR/STA-RITE
  • PENTAIR/STA-RITE CALYPSO
  • STA-RITE LIL SHARK
  • POLARIS - Back Up Valves
  • POLARIS 140/145
  • POLARIS 160/165/SUPER TURTLE
  • POLARIS 180/280 - KITS
  • POLARIS 180 - Hose Assy
  • POLARIS 280 & 280 TANK TRAX - HEAD
  • POLARIS 280 & 280 TANK TRAX BLACKMAX
  • POLARIS 280 & 380 BLACKMAX
  • POLARIS 280 - Hose Assy
  • POLARIS 360 - BLACKMAX Hose Assembly
  • POLARIS 360 - Head
  • POLARIS 360 - Hose Assembly
  • POLARIS 360 BLACKMAX -Head
  • POLARIS 360/380 - KITS
  • POLARIS 360/380 BLACKMAX- KITS
  • POLARIS 380 - Head
  • POLARIS 380 - Hose Assembly
  • POLARIS 380 BLACKMAX
  • POLARIS 3900 SPORT
  • POLARIS 480 PRO
  • POLARIS 60/65/TURBO TURTLE
  • POLARIS 9100 SPORT ROBOTIC CLEANER
  • POLARIS 9300 SPORT ROBOTIC CLEANER
  • POLARIS 9300XI SPORT ROBOTIC CLEANER
  • POLARIS 9400 SPORT ROBOTIC CLEANER
  • POLARIS ATV (PREVIOUSLY 340)
  • POLARIS ATV BLACKMAX
  • POLARIS BOOSTER PUMP
  • POLARIS CONNECTION KITS & FITTINGS
  • POLARIS DUST & VAC WATER VALVE
  • POLARIS ENVIRONPOOL WATER VALVE
  • POLARIS HALCYON BOOSTER PUMP
  • POLARIS LCS
  • POOLVERGNUEGEN PRESSURE CLEANER
  • POOLVERNUEGEN SUCTION CLEANERS
  • SMARTPOOL NITRO WALL CLIMBER
  • SMARTPOOL NITRO WALL SCRUBBER
  • SMARTPOOL WALL TO WALL CLEANER
  • STA-RITE POOL SHARK
  • WATER TECH AQUA BROOM
  • WATER TECH CATFISH
  • WATER TECH POOL BLASTER
  • WATER TECH POOL BUSTER
  • ANTHONY APOLLO DE FILTER
  • ANTHONY FLOWMASTER 4000 & 5000
  • RICHARDSON / SEABLUE TOP MOUNT SAND
  • BAKER HYDRO HRC CARTRIDGE
  • BAKER HYDRO HRV SAND FILTERS
  • BAKER HYDRO II TOP MOUNT FILTERS
  • BAKER HYDRO CARTRIDGE SKIM FILTER
  • ASTRAL 2500 TERRA & CEL FILTER
  • ASTRAL ASTER SAND FILTERS
  • ASTRAL CANTABRIC
  • ASTRAL CLARITY DE FILTERS
  • ASTRAL MILLENIUM SAND FILTER SYSTEM
  • ASTRAL MILLENIUM TOP MOUNT FILTER
  • CUSTOM MOLDED PRODUCTS CARTRIDGE
  • CUSTOM MOLDED PRODUCTS DE
  • FILTER TO PUMP HOSES
  • AMERICAN PRODUCTS "TITAN"
  • ANTHONY "APOLLO RECTANGULAR FILTER GRIDS
  • D.E. FILTER GRID PACKS
  • HAYWARD "MICRO CLEAR"
  • HYDROTECH "PUREX 2000 SERIES"
  • PAC-FAB "NAUTILUS"
  • PREMIER "ATLAS II" NOTCHED GRIDS
  • PREMIER "ATLAS" STANDARD GRIDS
  • STA-RITE VERTICAL DE FILTER
  • FILTER CARTRIDGES
  • SEPARATION TANK BAGS
  • GAME COMPLETE SAND FILTER SYSTEM
  • GAME SANDPRO FILTER SYSTEMS
  • GAME SOFTSIDE POOL ADAPTERS
  • HARMSCO MODEL VB - BAG BKP
  • HARMSCO MODELS: BF96, 144
  • HARMSCO HURRICANE
  • HARMSCO MODELS
  • HARMSCO MODELS: BF 55SC, 105SC, 155SC
  • HARMSCO MODELS: BF42, 84, 126
  • HARMSCO MODLES: BF168, 252, 336
  • HAYWARD PERFLEX D.E. FILTERS
  • HAYWARD GM-140,142,142-6 SAND FILTERS
  • HAYWARD REGEN-X FILTERS
  • HAYWARD MICRO-CLEAR D.E.
  • HAYWARD PERFLEX FILTER
  • HAYWARD PRO SERIES - SIDE MOUNT
  • HAYWARD PRO SERIES PLUS - SIDE MOUNT
  • HAYWARD PRO TOP MOUNT 27 & 31
  • HAYWARD PRO TOP MOUNT 14"
  • HAYWARD PRO-GRID PERM A GLASS DE
  • HAYWARD S-160T FILTER
  • HAYWARD S-200/ S-240 SAND
  • Hayward SAND MASTER
  • HAYWARD STAR CLEAR
  • HAYWARD SUPER STAR CLEAR - STAINLESS
  • HAYWARD SUPER STAR CLEAR - MOLDED
  • Hayward Swim Pro
  • HAYWARD SWIMCLEAR CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • HAYWARD PRO GRID DE SEPARATION TANK
  • JACUZZI AVALANCHE D.E. FILTER
  • JANDY SF-S SERIES SAND FILTER
  • JACUZZI EARTHWORKS DE FILTER
  • JACUZZI SPA / A.G. CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • JACUZZI LANDSLIDE DE FILTER
  • JACUZZI LASER COMPLETE TOP-MOUNT
  • JACUZZI LASER SAND FILTER
  • JACUZZI LASER SAND FILTER SYSTEM
  • JACUZZI COMPLETE CFR-25 FILTER
  • JACUZZI SAND TRAP FILTER - 24"
  • JACUZZI SAND TRAP FILTER - 27" & 33"
  • JACUZZI SHERLOCK CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • JACUZZI TRI-C.L.O.P.S. CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • JANDY CT SERIES CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • JANDY CL CARTRIDGE FILTERS
  • JANDY CV CARTRIDGE FILTERS
  • JANDY CS SERIES CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • JANDY JS SERIES SAND FILTER
  • JANDY LARGE DE FILTER
  • JANDY SIDE MOUNT SAND FILTER
  • JANDY TOP MOUNT SAND FILTERS
  • K-D POOLS CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • K-D POOLS CARTRIDGE FILTER SYSTEM
  • K-D POOLS SAND FILTER SYSTEM
  • MUSKIN SAND FILTER
  • MUSKIN SAND FILTER SYSTEM
  • PAC FAB NAUTILUS INS D.E.
  • PENTAIR QUANTUM STAINLESS
  • Pentair Clean & Clear Plus Filter Parts
  • PENTAIR/PAC FAB HI-FLOW, 2"
  • PENTAIR PLASTIC SLIDE VALVES
  • PENTAIR CHALLENGER
  • PENTAIR MODULAR DE FILTER
  • PENTAIR HRPB SAND
  • PENTAIR 2000 SERIES STAINLESS DE
  • PENTAIR 4000 SERIES MOLDED D.E.
  • PENTAIR CFW STAINLESS CARTRIDGE
  • PENTAIR CLEAN & CLEAR PLUS CARTRIDGE
  • PENTAIR CLEAN & CLEAR/PREDATOR SYSTEM
  • PENTAIR COMMANDER II
  • PENTAIR CRISTAL-FLO II SAND FILTER
  • PENTAIR CRISTAL-FLO SAND
  • PENTAIR DEP & DEP-01B D.E.
  • PENTAIR DEPB D.E. FILTER
  • PENTAIR DES ELEMENT ASSY
  • PENTAIR/PUREX CF ABS CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • PENTAIR DE SEPARATION TANK
  • PENTAIR ECLIPSE & METEOR TM
  • PENTAIR ECLIPSE SM
  • PENTAIR FNS PLUS DE FILTER
  • PENTAIR HRP - 01B SERIES
  • PENTAIR HRP SAND
  • PENTAIR MITRA STAINLESS CARTRIDGE
  • PENTAIR MYTILUS CARTRIDGE
  • PENTAIR MYTILUS FMY CARTRIDGE
  • PENTAIR NAUTILUS FNS D.E.
  • PENTAIR NAUTILUS PLUS STAINLESS DE
  • PENTAIR NAUTILUS STAINLESS D.E.
  • PENTAIR PF STAINLESS SAND
  • PENTAIR CLEAN & CLEAR RP CARTRIDGE
  • PENTAIR POSI-FLO II CARTRIDGE
  • PENTAIR POSI-FLO STAINLESS CARTRIDGE
  • PENTAIR POSI-CLEAR FILTERS
  • PENTAIR SEPARATION TANKS
  • PENTAIR PREDATOR FILTER
  • PENTAIR RAINBOW CARTRIDGE FILTERS
  • PENTAIR SAND DOLLAR
  • PENTAIR SANDPIPER FILTER
  • PENTAIR SEA HORSE FIBERGLASS CART
  • PENTAIR SEA HORSE STAINLESS CARTRIDGE
  • RICHARDSON / SEABLUE DYNAPURE CART
  • PENTAIR STAR D.E.
  • PENTAIR SYSTEM 2 MOD MEDIA & MOD D.E.
  • PENTAIR SEPARATION TANK
  • PENTAIR SYSTEM 3 CARTRIDGE
  • PENTAIR SYSTEM 3 D.E.
  • PENTAIR SYSTEM 3 SAND
  • PENTAIR TAGELUS FIBERGLASS SAND FILTER
  • PENTAIR TITAN CM DE FILTER
  • PENTAIR TITAN S.S. D.E. FILTER
  • PENTAIR TRITON C-3 COMMERCIAL SAND
  • PENTAIR TRITON COMMERCIAL SAND
  • PENTAIR TRITON II FIBERGLASS SAND FILTER
  • PENTAIR WARRIOR DE FILTER
  • PREMIER ATLAS D.E. FILTER
  • PREMIER HERCULES 300 CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • PUREX 800 SERIES STAINLESS DE FILTER
  • PUREX TAHITIAN VALVE
  • PUREX SEPARATION TANKS
  • PUREX TAHITIAN SAND
  • RAINBOW DYNAMIC SERIES II & III CART
  • RAINBOW MODULE FILTERS
  • RAINBOW DSF FILTER
  • RAINBOW DYNAMIC SERIES I CARTRIDGE
  • RAINBOW SERIES IV
  • SPECK ACF CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • SPECK AC CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • SPECK MODEL ACF CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • SPECK MODEL ACF FILTER SYSTEM
  • SONFARREL SPA CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • SPLASH PAK AG CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • SPLASH PAK - CE CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • SPLASH PAK - 16, 18.5, & 24 SAND FILTERS
  • SPLASH PAK/FLO PRO EF CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • SPLASH PAK - DE FILTER
  • STA-RITE SEPARATION TANK (STAINLESS)
  • W COOPER RANGER HIGH CAPACITY FILTER
  • MULTI TORK TOOLS
  • WATERCO HYDROSTORM PUMP
  • WATERCO FULFLO DE FILTER
  • WATERCO FULFLO TRI CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • WATERCO MICRON SIDE MOUNT FILTER
  • WATERCO TRIMLINE
  • WATERCO OPAL CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • WATERCO OPAL XL CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • WATERCO THERMOPLASTIC TOP MOUNT
  • WATERCO MICRON TOP MOUNT
  • WATERWAY CAREFREE TOP-MOUNT FILTER
  • WATERWAY TELEWEIR CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • WATERWAY PUMP STRAINER TRAP
  • WATERWAY CLEARWATER CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • WATERWAY CLEARWATER DE FILTER
  • WATERWAY CLEAWATER II CART FILTER
  • WATERWAY CLEARWATER II DE FILTER
  • WATERWAY CLEARWATER SAND FILTER
  • WATERWAY CLEARWATER TOP-MOUNT
  • WATERWAY CRYSTAL WATER CART FILTER
  • WATERWAY CRYSTAL WATER DE FILTER
  • WATERWAY DYNA FLO T/M SKIM FILTER
  • WATERWAY DYNA-FLO XL SKIM FILTER
  • WATERWAY PROCLEAN CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • WATERWAY ULTRA SKIM FILTER
  • 50 SQUARE FOOT
  • WATERWAY SMARTCLEAN SAND FILTER
  • WATERWAY SPA CARTRIDGE FILTERS
  • WATERWAY 1 1/2" & 2" IN-LINE FILTER
  • WATERWAY TWM-30 CARTRIDGE FILTER SYSTEM
  • WATERWAY TWM SAND FILTER
  • WATERWAY TWM CARTRIDGE FILTER
  • WATERWAY ULTRACLEAN PRO SAND FILTER
  • AMERICAN PRODUCTS 5 & 8 POSITION TOP MOUNT
  • ANTHONY PUSH-PULL VALVE
  • AMERICAN PRODUCTS SIDE MOUNT 2"
  • ASTRAL 2" UNIVERSAL MULTIPORT VALVE
  • ASTRAL TOP MOUNT VALVE
  • ASTRAL 2" SIDE MOUNT VALVE
  • BAKER HYDRO 2" SIDE MOUNT VALVE
  • BAKER HYDRO SLIDE VALVE
  • COOPER 1 1/2" TOP MOUNT VALVE
  • CARVIN MULTIPORT VALVE
  • HAYWARD COMPLETE FILTER VALVES
  • HAYWARD MULTIPORT - 1 1/2" 1976-Current
  • HAYWARD MULTIPORT 4-WAY GM
  • HAYWARD MULTIPORT 6-WAY GM
  • HAYWARD MULTIPORT SP-740DE 2"
  • HAYWARD SLIDE VALVE 2"
  • HAYWARD MULTIPORT VALVE - 2"
  • HAYWARD MULTIPORT VARIFLO XL 1 1/2"
  • HAYWARD MULTIPORT VALVE-1 1/2" (1969-75)
  • HAYWARD TOP MOUNT VALVE
  • JACUZZI 2" CAST IRON VALVE
  • JACUZZI DVK-4 DIAL VALVES
  • JACUZZI REPLACEMENT VALVE
  • JANDY VALVES
  • JANDY SIDE MOUNT VALVE - DE
  • JANDY SIDE MOUNT VALVE
  • MUSKIN VALVES
  • PENTAIR FULFLOXF BACKWASH VALVE
  • PENTAIR FULL FLOW VALVE
  • PENTAIR/PAC FAB 2" PVC SLIDE VALVE
  • PENTAIR/PAC FAB TOP MOUNT VALVE 1 1/2"
  • PENTAIR/PRAHER VALVES - 1 1/2"
  • PENTAIR/PRAHER VALVES - 2"
  • PRAHER, 3" SIDE MOUNT VALVE
  • PUREX 2000 SERIES BACKWASH VALVE
  • PRAHER/PENTAIR COMPLETE VALVES
  • STA-RITE SWIMQUIP BRONZE SLIDE VALVE
  • STA-RITE PLASTIC SLIDE VALVE
  • STA-RITE MULTIPORT TOP MOUNT 2"
  • STA-RITE SIDEMOUNT VALVES
  • STA-RITE/SWIMQUIP MULTIPORT - 1 1/2"
  • SPLASH PAK MULTI PORT VALVE
  • WATERCO TOPMOUNT VALVE
  • WATERCO 2" TOP MOUNT VALVE
  • Valterra Plastics Valves
  • WATERWAY SLIDE VALVE
  • WATERWAY SIDEMOUNT MULTIPORT, 2"
  • WATERWAY TOP MOUNT VALVE
  • CUSTOM MOLDED PRODUCTS VALVE
  • PARAPORT MULTIPORT VALVE
  • SPECK 1 1/2" TOP MOUNT VALVE
  • REPAIR MAX OVERHAUL KITS
  • ELECTRIC HEAT EXCHANGERS
  • BAPTISMAL EQUIPMENT SYSTEMS
  • BALBOA REVOLUTION HEATER
  • COATES & COMFORTZONE SPA HEATERS
  • COMFORTZONE/HAYWARD MODELS PSE, 12-54
  • COATES SPA HEATERS
  • CPVC PIPE NIPPLES
  • COMPLETE BAPTISTRY HEATERS
  • UNIVERSAL FLOW THRU HEATERS
  • COMFORTZONE/HAYWARD CZ MODELS 150-400
  • COMFORTZONE/HAYWARD CPS-CPSE 520-1820
  • COMFORTZONE/HAYWARD PSG II MODELS
  • COMPLETE SPA HEATERS
  • GECKO IN.THERM REMOTE HEATER - RED
  • ELEMENT ADAPTERS
  • ELECTRIC HEATER ELEMENTS
  • ELECTRIC HEATERS - VERTICAL LOW FLOW
  • ELECTRIC HEATERS FLOW THRU
  • ELECTRIC HEATER VERTICAL LOW-FLOW
  • CRL HEATER UNITS
  • HEATER MANIFOLDS - STAINLESS STEEL
  • GAS HEATERS
  • HAYWARD H-SERIES LOW NOX
  • HAYWARD HEATMASTER HM2 150-400
  • HAYWARD H-SERIES ELECTRONIC ED2
  • HAYWARD ABOVE GROUND HEATER
  • HAYWARD H-SERIES & H-SERIES ED1
  • HAYWARD HEATPRO HEAT PUMP
  • HAYWARD UNIVERSAL H-SERIES LOW NOX
  • HEATER MANIFOLDS
  • JANDY AE-TI HEAT PUMP
  • JANDY EE-TI HEAT PUMP
  • JANDY EPC & EPS SERIES 1
  • JANDY EPG & EPM - SERIES 1
  • JANDY ESC - SERIES 2
  • JANDY ESG - SERIES 2
  • JANDY HEAT EXCHANGERS
  • JANDY Hi-E2
  • JANDY HOT SHOT
  • JANDY LEGACY MODEL LRZE HEATER
  • JANDY LEGACY MODEL LRZM HEATER
  • JANDY XL-3 OIL FIRED HEATER
  • JANDY LITE 2 LJ MODEL
  • JANDY LITE/LITE 2
  • JANDY LX/LT
  • PENTAIR MASTERTEMP HEATER
  • PENTAIR MINI MAX 75, 100 & 100SC
  • PENTAIR MINI MAX PLUS
  • PAC FAB MINIMAX HEAT EXCHANGER
  • PENTAIR MINIMAX CONTROL PARTS
  • PENTAIR MINIMAX CH HEATER
  • PENTAIR MINIMAX NT HEATER
  • PENTAIR/PUREX TROPIC ISLE HEATER
  • PORTABLE BAPTISMAL SYSTEMS
  • PURE HEAT BATH HEATERS
  • PUREX ISLANDER / TROPIC AIR / MANATEE
  • RAYPAK ATMOSPHERIC & LO-NOX
  • RAYPAK SPA HEATERS
  • RAYPAK HEAT PUMP
  • RAYPAK HEATERS ATMOSPHERIC MODELS
  • RAYPAK HEATERS LO-NOX MODELS
  • RAYPAK RP2100 - CURRENT SINCE NOV 98
  • RAYPAK RP2100- 93 THRU 98
  • RAYPAK VERSA
  • STA RITE MAX-E-THERM
  • TERMINAL BLOCK
  • TELEDYNE LAARS ELECTRA II HEATERS
  • AQUA PRODUCTS
  • GECKO ALLIANCE
  • JANDY/ZODIAC
  • KREEPY KRAULY
  • LITTLE GIANT
  • PACFAB/PENTAIR
  • VICO/BALBOA
  • ZODIAC/JANDY
  • ABOVE GROUND POOL LIGHTS
  • ANTHONY POOL LIGHT
  • LED LIGHT BULBS
  • LIGHT BULBS
  • CALVERT FOUNTAIN LIGHT
  • FIBERSTARS FIBER OPTICS
  • FIBERSTARS JAZZ & FX POOL LIGHTS
  • FIBERSTARS JAZZ & FX SPA LIGHTS
  • FIBERSTARS PAL-2000
  • G.A.M.E. FLOATING LIGHTS
  • HAYWARD ASTROLITE
  • HAYWARD ASTROLITE II
  • HAYWARD DURALITE
  • HAYWARD ELITE ABOVE GROUND LIGHT
  • HAYWARD COLORLOGIC 4 & 2.5
  • HAYWARD FACERINGS
  • HAYWARD ORIGINAL BULB FIXTURE
  • HAYWARD PLASTIC NICHES
  • HAYWARD SEALED BEAM
  • HAYWARD STAINLESS VINYL NICHE
  • HAYWARD STARLITE
  • HAYWARD VINYL NICHE
  • HYDREL/STA-RITE SUNLITE NICHE
  • JACUZZI/CARVIN FULL MOON LED
  • JACUZZI/CARVIN FULL MOON LIGHT NICHE
  • JACUZZI/CARVIN FULL MOON STANDARD
  • JANDY - SPA LIGHT
  • JANDY LIGHT NICHES
  • JANDY/POLARIS LIGHTS
  • J & J ELECTRONICS GUARDIAN GASKETS
  • LIGHT NICHE REPAIR
  • LIGHT REPAIR
  • LIGHT TRANSFORMER
  • PAC FAB HATTERAS POOL LIGHT
  • PAC FAB HATTERAS POOL NICHE
  • PENTAIR - AM PROD SPECTRUM AMERLITE
  • PENTAIR STAINLESS STEEL NICHES
  • PENTAIR GUNITE PLASTIC NICHES
  • PENTAIR - AM PROD SPECTRUM AQUALIGHT
  • PENTAIR - AMERICAN PROD AMERLITE
  • PENTAIR - AMERICAN PRODUCTS AQUALIGHT
  • PENTAIR - AMERICAN PRODUCTS SPA BRITE
  • PENTAIR - HYDREL SUNLITE LTC
  • PENTAIR HI-LITE LIGHT
  • PENTAIR AQUALUMIN III
  • PENTAIR FIBERWORKS LENS ASSEMBLY
  • PENTAIR FIBERWORKS PG2000
  • PENTAIR FIBERWORKS PHOTON GENERATOR
  • PENTAIR INTELLIBRITE 5G POOL
  • PENTAIR INTELLIBRITE 5G SPA
  • PENTAIR INTELLIBRITE LIGHT
  • PENTAIR LIGHTING
  • PENTAIR NICHES
  • PENTAIR STA-RITE - SWIMQUIP LIGHTS
  • PENTAIR/AM PROD AG POOL LIGHTS
  • PENTAIR/AM PROD AMERQUARTZ
  • PENTAIR/AMERICAN PROD AQUALUMIN
  • PENTAIR/AMERICAN PROD SMALL LIGHTS
  • PENTAIR/HYDREL/STA-RITE SUNLITE
  • PENTAIR/STA-RITE LIGHTS
  • PENTAIR/STA-RITE SUNBRITE LTC LIGHT
  • PENTAIR/STA-RITE SUNGLOW LIGHTS
  • PENTAIR/STA-RITE SUNSTAR
  • PUREX CHD/POOL STAR LIGHT
  • SMARTPOOL - NITELIGHTER
  • SMARTPOOL AURORA AG HALOGEN LIGHT
  • GECKO FIBER OPTIC CONTROL MODULES
  • STA-RITE/ SWIMQUIP POOL LIGHT
  • STA-RITE/SWIMQUIP POOL LIGHT NICHE
  • Coleman/Maax
  • Cover Valet
  • Dimension One
  • Leisure Bay
  • Pool Systems
  • ADVANTAGE ABOVE GROUND PUMP
  • ADVANTAGE IN GROUND PUMP
  • ADVANTAGE POOL SPA PUMP
  • ALADDIN PRO BOX GASKETS & SHAFT SEALS
  • ANTHONY CENTRIFUGAL POOL PUMPS
  • A. O. SMITH COMMERCIAL MOTORS
  • A.O. SMITH GUARDIAN MOTOR
  • AQUA-FLO A SERIES PUMP
  • AQUA-FLO FLO-MASTER FMCP & FMHP
  • AQUA-FLO A SERIES PUMP
  • AQUA-FLO CIRC MASTER CMHP
  • AQUA-FLO CIRC-MASTER
  • AQUA-FLO DOMINATOR - MEDIUM HEAD
  • AQUA-FLO FLO-MASTER SPA PUMPS
  • AQUA-FLO FLO-MASTER XP & XP2 SERIES
  • AQUA-FLO FLO-MASTER XP2E
  • AQUA-FLO FLO-MASTER XP3
  • AQUA-FLO WHIRLMASTER JETTED BATH PUMP
  • ASTRAL 1600 SERIES ASTRAMAX
  • CAL FOUNTAIN PUMPS
  • ASTRAL 1800 SERIES SENA
  • CALVERT FOUNTAIN PUMPS
  • ASTRAL SPRINT 2000 US-1
  • BALBOA/G & G OLYMPIAN
  • BALBOA/HYDRO AIR GEMINI
  • BALBOA/STA-RITE DJ SERIES
  • BALBOA/VICO ULTIMA & ULTIMA PLUS
  • BALBOA/VICO DUALLY
  • BALBOA/VICO ULTIMAX SPA PUMP
  • BALBOA/VICO ULTRA FLOW PUMP
  • BALBOA/VICO WOW & POWER WOW
  • CENTURY MOTORS
  • DANNER COVER PUMP
  • FLO PRO K SERIES PUMP
  • FLOTEC AG PUMP
  • G.A.M.E. SAND PRO PUMP
  • GENERIC PUMP BASKETS
  • HEAVY DUTY REPLACEMENT BASKETS
  • HAYWARD TURBO-FLO
  • HAYWARD TRI STAR
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HAYWARD | SAFETY CLIPS FOR LOCK RING | CCX1000H

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swim pro voyager lock ring removal

  Product Description

parts for HAYWARD MODEL #CC1000 & CC1500 & SWIM PRO VOYAGER 1750 & 2000

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This product has a 1 year warranty from the manufacturer

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HAYWARD | LOCK RING ASSEMBLY W/2 SAFETY CLIPS | CCX1000D

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Inyopools.com

  • Filter Parts
  • Hayward XStream Cartridge

Hayward XStream Lock Ring with Safety Clips - CCX1000D

?     Asked on 6/25/2014 by Guest

Does the same lock assembly with clips fit both xstream and swim pro voyager filter?  Reply

A   Answered on 6/25/2014 by InyoPools Product Specialist Patrick P.

Yes the 4663-31 is used both on the Xstream and the Swimpro Voyager  Reply

?     Asked on 5/10/2015 by Inyo Visitor

Is it hard to replace?  Reply

A   Answered on 5/10/2015 by InyoPools Product Specialist Patrick P.

This part is a fairly simple part to replace.  Reply

?     Asked on 5/12/2015 by Inyo Visitor

so how do I find how to replace it cannot get old one removed  Reply

A   Answered on 5/13/2015 by InyoPools Product Specialist Patrick P.

The instructions for removal of the Hayward Stream Lock Ring would be as follows. 1. Shut off the pump. 2. Close valves* (*optional: suction & return valves). 3. Open air relief valve. 4. Open drain plug (located at the base of the filter body). 5. Depress safety latches (located on the underside of the locking ring handles) and unscrew locking ring in a counter-clockwise direction.  Reply

?     Asked on 6/12/2015 by Tracy

Is there different swimpro voyager filters? Or just one model type that this will fit?  Reply

A   Answered on 6/12/2015 by InyoPools Product Specialist Lennox H.

Tracy, The Hayward X-Stream and Swim Pro Voyager uses the same parts, including the  Lock Ring Ass'y W/ Safety Clips .  Reply

?     Asked on 6/22/2016 by gene riddick

can I get one day shipping  Reply

A   Answered on 6/22/2016 by InyoPools Product Specialist Lennox H.

Hi Gene, This part is not currently in-stock for immediate shipping.  Reply

?     Asked on 4/27/2017 by joe salvatore

will it fit clear water cw2-107051  Reply

A   Answered on 4/28/2017 by InyoPools Product Specialist Lennox H.

Hi, Joe. This Lock Ring will not fit that model filter, you will need the Filter Nut With Lock Tabs - 550-2060 .  Reply

?     Asked on 5/11/2017 by Donna

Will this part fit a CC1000Z4, Hayward  Reply

A   Answered on 5/11/2017 by InyoPools Product Specialist Patrick P.

Hi Donna, Yes this lock ring assembly is a replacement for the Hayward CC1000Z4  Reply

?     Asked on 5/23/2017 by Bob

My lock ring for a SW 1000Z4 cracked and water is leaking. I took the top off but can't get ring off to replace it. Should I just get a whole new top and ring replacement  Reply

A   Answered on 5/31/2017 by InyoPools Product Specialist Stacey M.

Hello Bob, I would replace the whole unit.  Reply

?     Asked on 6/9/2017 by David Wathen

I have a Hayward Voyager SwimPro Model SW15044MFTTL ID is 2112060200 Will this Lock Ring Assembly fit this?  Reply

A   Answered on 6/10/2017 by InyoPools Product Specialist Lennox H.

Hi, David. This Lock Ring will fit the Hayward Voyager SwimPro filter.  Reply

?     Asked on 6/20/2017 by Barb

I just got this replacement part but can't get it to seat right. Is there a trick to getting it on?  Reply

A   Answered on 10/6/2017 by InyoPools Product Specialist Megan C.

If the Lock Ring Ass'y W/ Safety Clips - CCX1000D is not properly seating on the filter tank, I recommend replacing the Body O-ring - CCX1000G  and applying the Magic Lube O-ring Lubricant 1 Oz. Teflon - 630 to the O-Ring.  Reply

Commented on 5/28/2020 by Product Owner

I can't get the ring to screw all the way down for the locking tabs to engage.  Reply

?     Asked on 6/20/2017 by Francis M Mariano

are the lock rings the same on both xstream modles?  Reply

A   Answered on 6/21/2017 by InyoPools Product Specialist Patrick P.

Yes all versions of the X-Stream and Voyager filters use this same lock ring.  Reply

?     Asked on 6/22/2017 by Karen

lock ring and handle broke how do I know this will fit Voyager swimpro replacement element ccx1500RE ccx1750RE ccx2000re?  Reply

A   Answered on 6/22/2017 by InyoPools Product Specialist Hector F.

Yes, this will work for your Voyager Swimpro cartridge filter.  Reply

?     Asked on 6/6/2018 by Deshawn wise

Will it fit the xtream cc10080s?  Reply

A   Answered on 6/6/2018 by InyoPools Product Specialist Lennox H.

Hi, Deshawn. Yes, this Lock Ring Assy -  CCX1000D  will fit the Xtream CC10080S model.   Reply

?     Asked on 6/8/2018 by Inyo Visitor

Does this fit the Hayward XStream 150 Sq. Ft. CC1500  Reply

A   Answered on 6/8/2018 by InyoPools Product Specialist Lennox H.

Hi. Yes, this Lock Ring Ass'y W/ Safety Clips - CCX1000D  will fit the Hayward XStream CC1500 filter.   Reply

?     Asked on 8/14/2018 by Inyo Visitor

Will this fit model number sw110mpaks  Reply

A   Answered on 8/17/2018 by InyoPools Product Specialist Lennox H.

Hi. I was not able to cross reference that model to this Lock Ring. Please provide pictures of your filter for confirmation.   Reply

?     Asked on 6/16/2019 by Inyo Visitor

How do you install 2 new safety clips on the lid locking ring assembly on a Swim Pro Voyager? Does the locking ring come off the lid???  Reply

A   Answered on 6/17/2019 by Industry Professional

Yes, the lock is removable  Reply

Commented on 9/8/2019 by Product Owner

How does one remove the ring?  Reply

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Filter Lid with Lock Ring, 150 SQFT

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Hayward Filter Lid with Lock Ring, 150 SQFT

Hayward ccx1500c.

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150 SQFT X-Stream Filter Lid w/ Lock Ring BASIC SPECS: COLOR: LIGHT GRAY BODY, BLACK LOCK RING DIAMETER: 16-3/8" (MAXIMUM DIAMETER AT FLANGE WHERE LOCK RING FITS) DIAMETER: 16" (DIAMETER AT THE BOTTOM OF THE LID) HEIGHT: 15-3/4" (TO THE TOP OF THE LID) HEIGHT: 17" (TO THE TOP OF THE AIR RELIEF VALVE)

swim pro voyager lock ring removal

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Total Sprinkler

Manganese release linked to carbonate dissolution during the start-up phase of a subsurface iron removal well in Khabarovsk, Russia

Affiliations.

  • 1 Dresden University of Applied Sciences, Friedrich-List-Platz 1, 01069 Dresden, Germany. Electronic address: [email protected].
  • 2 Dresden University of Applied Sciences, Friedrich-List-Platz 1, 01069 Dresden, Germany.
  • 3 Arcadis Germany GmbH, EUREF-Campus 10, 10829 Berlin, Germany.
  • 4 Institute of Water and Ecological Problems, FEB RAS, 680000 Khabarovsk, Russia.
  • PMID: 30273731
  • DOI: 10.1016/j.scitotenv.2018.09.319

Subsurface iron removal (SIR) is a proven pre-treatment technology for removing dissolved iron and manganese from groundwater. The start-up phase of a SIR well and the proper development of the reaction zone around the well are crucial for its subsequent performance. This study evaluates the start-up phase of a SIR production well in Khabarovsk, Russia during the first 194 SIR cycles. A strong release of manganese was observed, which led to concentrations twice as high as the background value of the pristine groundwater. Regular monitoring of the production well and its three adjacent observation wells showed that iron removal began immediately after start-up and that the reaction zone was completely formed within 25 SIR cycles. Closed-bottle batch tests and a flow-through leaching test revealed that the grain size of the aquifer material and groundwater pH are the primary controls on manganese release. During infiltration phases the dissolution of manganese-bearing carbonate minerals was caused by direct oxidation by O 2 , whereas the low groundwater pH of 6 seemed to be responsible for the manganese release during extraction.

Keywords: Carbonate dissolution; Manganese release; Russia; Start-up phase; Subsurface iron removal.

Copyright © 2018 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

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swim pro voyager lock ring removal

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  1. Swimpro Voyager Parts Diagram

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  2. Swim Pro Voyager Sw1000z4 Manual

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  3. Swimpro Voyager 150 Manual

    swim pro voyager lock ring removal

  4. Swim Pro Voyager Sw1000z4 Manual

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COMMENTS

  1. PDF ISSW200-Rev.B

    SwimPro® Voyager™ Filtration Series _____ Start-Up & Operation New Installation/Seasonal Start-Up 1. Close drain valve at the base of filter. 2. Secure and lock Easy-Lok™ ring. 3. Open air relief valve (Turn lever to left). 4. Open valves (Optional suction & return valves).

  2. Do was taking apart my swim pro voyager ISSWZ200M and now I…

    Do was taking apart my swim pro voyager ISSWZ200M and now I can not screw the top part with the lock ring assembly - Answered by a verified Pool and Spa Expert ... If you remove it now and it wasn't aligned correctly you will likely see some damage or at least denting on the ends of the filter. There should be an o ring that sits in a channel ...

  3. 5-Step Hayward Pool Filter Repairs

    Hi Kathy, a leaking filter lid usually means either a loose clamp or a bad (or dirty) lid o-ring. Remove the o-ring and clean it well with a rag, then apply a good bead of Teflon pool lube, again with a rag. For inground filters, tighten the clamp band until all springs are touching on the clasp assembly.

  4. I have a Hayward Voyager Swimpro above ground pool filter. I…

    I am unable to get the O'Ring to lock. I have wrestled with I for hours and I have sprayed silicone lube on the threads and I have both the pressure relief valve and the drain cap open to prevent any air locking in it. ... Do was taking apart my swim pro voyager ISSWZ200M and now I can not screw the top part with the lock ring assembly and ...

  5. How to Remove a Hayward Pool Filter Lid

    Determine the type of Hayward filter you are working with. For a cartridge filter, simply depress the latches on the top of the filter tank. For DE and sand filters, use a wrench to loosen and remove the bolts securing the lid in place. All Hayward filters are equipped with a locking ring. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the locking ring.

  6. Lock Ring

    I have a standard swim pro voyager cartridge filter system for a above ground pool, I do not know if its a 1750 or a 2000. 3 times in the last month the lock ring has split, all the pipes and hoses from filter to pool running through the heater and the chemical feeder are clean and clear, yet somehow the big plastic lock ring splits.

  7. Hayward CCX1000D Lock Ring Assembly with 2 Safety Clips Replacement for

    This item Hayward CCX1000D Lock Ring Assembly with 2 Safety Clips Replacement for Select Hayward Xstream Filters , Black Hayward SPX0327 1-Ounce Jacks Multilube (Limited Edition) GMX600NM Noryl Flange Valve Clamp 8 to 8.5 inch,Compatible with Hayward S144T Pro Series Above Ground In Ground Pool Sand Filter,For models S144T S164T S166T S180T ...

  8. Hayward XStream Lock Ring with Safety Clips

    GENERAL DESCRIPTION: HAYWARD XSTREAM FILTER, SWIM PRO VOYAGER FILTER THIS IS THE BODY LOCK RING ASSEMBLY. THIS IS A STANDARD ROUND LOCK RING WITH A HANDHOLD ON EACH SIDE THE LOCK RING CURVES ON THE OUTSIDE WITH THE MAXIMUM DIAMETER AT THE BOTTOM ... The instructions for removal of the Hayward Stream Lock Ring would be as follows. 1. Shut off ...

  9. HAYWARD

    HAYWARD | LOCK RING ASSEMBLY W/2 SAFETY CLIPS | CCX1000D . parts for HAYWARD MODEL #CC1000 & CC1500 & SWIM PRO VOYAGER 1750 & 2000 Warranty Information. This product has a 1 year warranty from the manufacturer Find Similar Products by Category. ... Why there is Sand in Your Pool and How to Remove it?

  10. Hayward SwimPro Voyager Upper Filter Housing Lock Ring is Binding and

    I on having complication getting the above subject item to belt and seal properly on this lower tap housing without leaking. As I roll the lock ring it will not rotate all the way dextral to the security locks before binding. I replaced who cipher ring or lubed well but still binds. I cant screw it...

  11. Hayward Lock Ring Assembly with Safety Clips

    Item No. 614657 | Manufacturer SKU: CCX1000D. $319.99. Buy in monthly payments with Affirm on orders over $50. Learn more. LOCK RING ASS'Y W/ SAFETY CLIPS More Details. Change Zip.

  12. Parts For Hayward Xstream Filters

    Hayward XStream CC1000, CC1500, Swim Pro Voyager 1750, 2000 Cartridge Pool Filter Parts. Part Selector: Hayward XStream CC1000, CC1500, Swim Pro Voyager 1750, 2000 Cartridge Pool Filter Parts ... Details: LOCK RING ASS'Y W/ SAFETY CLIPS Availability: In Stock $319.99 Add To Cart #null Hayward - Body O-Ring. SKU: 66225 Details ...

  13. Help with Hayward swim pro voyager

    Re: Help with Hayward swim pro voyager. The orange part is an air bleed, to allow trapped air out of the filter. When water shoots out your done. Air sucking in however could be a not air tight connection on your plumbing from the pool to the top of the pump outlet.

  14. SwimPro Voyager

    SwimPro Voyager. from Hayward Pool Products. Great Price: $5.99. Sale Price: $3.99. Buy in monthly payments with Affirm on orders over $50. Learn more. Parts. 1) SKU# 4502- Pressure Gauge $5.99 2) SKU# 9681 - Air Relief $14.99 3)SKU# 9683 Retainer Clip $10.99 4) SKU# 9693 - Adaptor Nut $4.99 (Set of 2) 5)SKU# 9689 - Drain Plug $3.99 7)SKU ...

  15. Hayward XStream Lock Ring with Safety Clips

    Shut off the pump. 2. Close valves* (*optional: suction & return valves). 3. Open air relief valve. 4. Open drain plug (located at the base of the filter body). 5. Depress safety latches (located on the underside of the locking ring handles) and unscrew locking ring in a counter-clockwise direction.

  16. Hayward XStream CC1000, CC1500, Swim Pro Voyager 1750 ...

    Hayward XStream CC1000, CC1500, Swim Pro Voyager 1750, 2000 Cartridge Pool Filter Parts. Set contains: Hayward - 1-1/2" Drain Plug with O-Ring for SwimClear C2030, C3030, C4030, C5030, C7030 ... Hayward - 1-1/2" Drain Plug with O-Ring for SwimClear C2030, C3030, C4030, C5030, C7030 Item No. 624099 | Manufacturer SKU: SP1022CBLK. Item No. ...

  17. Hayward XStream CC1000, CC1500, CC2000 Cartridge Filter Parts

    Balancers Water Clarifiers Stain Removal Phosphate Removers Borates Baquacil® Equipment ... Lock Ring Assembly, with 2 Safety Clips. $224.70. 4 Safety Clips For Lock Ring. $10.90. 5 Safety Clips For Lock Ring. $10.90. 5 Adapter Nut (2 Pack) $8.90. 7 Adapter Nut (2 Pack) $8.90. 7 Filter, Lower Body.

  18. Swim Pro Filter Lid

    Hayward Swim Pro Voyager Filter Lid Lock Ring, CC1500 and CC1750 In-Stock. Free Shipping over $75 | 30-Day Returns. Track Order Account ... Cleaning Tools Pool Nets Swimming Pool Brushes Leaf & Debris Removal Vacuum Equipment Commercial Equipment ... 150 SQFT X-Stream Filter Lid w/ Lock Ring BASIC SPECS: COLOR: LIGHT GRAY BODY, BLACK LOCK RING ...

  19. Lock Ring Assembly with Safety Clips

    Hayward - Lock Ring Assembly with Safety Clips. Item No. 614657 | Manufacturer SKU: CCX1000D. $319.99. Buy in monthly payments with Affirm on orders over $50. Learn more.

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    A strong release of manganese was observed, which led to concentrations twice as high as the background value of the pristine groundwater. Regular monitoring of the production well and its three adjacent observation wells showed that iron removal began immediately after start-up and that the reaction zone was completely formed within 25 SIR cycles.

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