tour of mont blanc complete two way trekking guide

Trekking the Tour of Mont Blanc: Complete two-way hiking guidebook and map booklet PDF

This guidebook contains in-depth route description and mapping for both the classic 11 day anti-clockwise circuit and an alternative 10 day clockwise TMB circuit. This well-signed but demanding 170km route, starting from Les Houches or Champex, is suitable for fit walkers. The guidebook comes with a map booklet containing official 1:25,000 IGN mapping for the TMB route, and urban maps for the major centres of Chamonix, Courmayeur, Les Contamines, Les Houches and Champex. Complete with a French-English glossary, comprehensive notes about accommodation, facilities and transport, this guide provides all the information needed for planning and completing your trek. The Tour of Mont Blanc is one of the world's classic treks. Visiting France, Italy and Switzerland, the TMB passes through some of Europe's most spectacular mountain scenery, with views of the peaks and glaciers of the magnificent Mont Blanc massif....

Chapter List (65 chapters):

• Chapter 1: Tour of mont blanc: Complete two-way trekking guide
• Chapter 2: Cover
• Chapter 3: Title Page
• Chapter 4: Bibliographic Information
• Chapter 5: Note on Mapping
• Chapter 6: Dedication
• Chapter 7: Updates to this Guide
• Chapter 8: Contents
• Chapter 9: Mountain safety
• Chapter 10: Overview map
• Chapter 11: Overview profile
• Chapter 12: Map key
• Chapter 13: Route summary table – anti-clockwise
• Chapter 14: Route summary table – clockwise
• Chapter 15: INTRODUCTION
• Chapter 16: The Tour of Mont Blanc
• Chapter 17: The route
• Chapter 18: Clockwise or anti-clockwise?
• Chapter 19: Suggested itineraries
• Chapter 20: How to get there
• Chapter 21: When to go
• Chapter 22: Accommodation
• Chapter 23: Languages
• Chapter 24: Maps and waymarks
• Chapter 25: Preparation and equipment
• Chapter 26: Safety in the mountains
• Chapter 27: Using this guide
• Chapter 28: THE TOUR OF MONT BLANC – ANTI-CLOCKWISE
• Chapter 29: Stage 1 Les Houches – Bionnassay – Les Contamines
• Chapter 30: Stage 1A Les Houches – Refuge de Miage – Les Contamines
• Chapter 31: Stage 2 Les Contamines – Croix du Bonhomme – Les Chapieux
• Chapter 32: Stage 3 Les Chapieux – Col de la Seigne – Rifugio Elisabetta
• Chapter 33: Stage 4 Rifugio Elisabetta – Courmayeur
• Chapter 34: Stage 5 Courmayeur – Rifugio Bonatti
• Chapter 35: Stage 6 Rifugio Bonatti – Grand Col Ferret – La Fouly
• Chapter 36: Stage 7 La Fouly – Champex
• Chapter 37: Stage 8 Champex – Alp Bovine – Trient
• Chapter 38: Stage 8A Champex – Fenêtre d’Arpette – Trient
• Chapter 39: Stage 9 Trient – Col de Balme – Tré-le-Champ
• Chapter 40: Stage 10 Tré-le-Champ – Refuge La Flégère
• Chapter 41: Stage 11 Refuge La Flégère – Le Brévent – Les Houches
• Chapter 42: Places and items of interest on the TMB
• Chapter 43: The story of Mont Blanc
• Chapter 44: THE TOUR OF MONT BLANC – CLOCKWISE
• Chapter 45: Stage 1 Champex – Ferret
• Chapter 46: Stage 2 Ferret – Grand Col Ferret – Rifugio Bonatti
• Chapter 47: Stage 3 Rifugio Bonatti – Courmayeur
• Chapter 48: Stage 4 Courmayeur – Rifugio Elisabetta
• Chapter 49: Stage 5 Rifugio Elisabetta – Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme
• Chapter 50: Stage 6 Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme – Les Contamines
• Chapter 51: Stage 7 Les Contamines – Bionnassay – Les Houches
• Chapter 52: Stage 7A Les Contamines – Refuge de Miage – Les Houches
• Chapter 53: Stage 8 Les Houches – Le Brévent – La Flégère
• Chapter 54: Stage 9 La Flégère – Col de Balme – Trient
• Chapter 55: Stage 10 Trient – Alp Bovine – Champex
• Chapter 56: Stage 10A Trient – Fenêtre d’Arpette – Champex
• Chapter 57: Appendix A Route facilities table (anti-clockwise)
• Chapter 58: Appendix B Accommodation
• Chapter 59: Appendix C Campsites on the TMB
• Chapter 60: Appendix D Useful contacts
• Chapter 61: Appendix E Further reading
• Chapter 62: Appendix F French–English glossary
• Chapter 63: 1:25000 route map booklet
• Chapter 64: Listing of Cicerone Guides
• Chapter 65: About Cicerone

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Tour of Mont Blanc: Complete two-way trekking guide Paperback – 29 April 2019

There is a newer edition of this item:.

The essential guidebook to the 105-mile Tour of Mont Blanc trek in the Alps. One of the best of the world's classic walks, which circumnavigates the Mont Blanc massif in about eleven days through France, Switzerland and Italy. The walk has all the excitement of the high mountains yet none of the worry of altitude sickness. It crosses numerous cols with stunning views of spectacular snow and rock peaks and accommodation along the route is plentiful. The 'official' Tour du Mont Blanc follows an established route around the main block of mountains containing not only Mont Blanc but its principal allied summits such as Aiguille Verte, Aiguille du Chardonnet, Aiguille du Goûter, Dent du Géant, Grandes Jorasses, Aiguille d'Argentière, Mont Dolent and numerous others. The author describes the tour both in the traditional 'anti-clockwise' direction and the 'clockwise' direction. There are several alternative routes that subsequently link, and these are also described. The routes have been created to give the very best perspective and appreciation of the whole region. At every opportunity recommendations are made that will bring the walker into closer contact with the area. This guide is in full colour, with points of interest, accommodation details and overview maps for every stage, along with details of the natural and cultural history of the region. There are also routes around Courmayeur and Arnuva and to Lac Blanc, as well as essential practical information on travel to and around the Mont Blanc Massif, mountain safety, languages, currency and more. The result is an ideal companion to take on one of the world's greatest mountain adventures.

• Print length 240 pages
• Language English
• Publisher Cicerone Press
• Publication date 29 April 2019
• Dimensions 11.68 x 1.27 x 17.91 cm
• ISBN-10 1852847794
• ISBN-13 978-1852847791
• See all details

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Product description

About the author, product details.

• Publisher ‏ : ‎ Cicerone Press; 4th edition (29 April 2019)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English
• Paperback ‏ : ‎ 240 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1852847794
• ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1852847791
• Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 11.68 x 1.27 x 17.91 cm
• 1,153 in Climbing & Mountaineering (Books)
• 1,715 in Hiking & Walking Holidays
• 4,076 in Walking, Hiking & Trekking

About the authors

Kev reynolds.

A lifelong passion for the countryside in general, and mountains in particular, drives Kev Reynolds' desire to share his sense of wonder and delight in the natural world through his writing, photography and lectures. Claiming to be The Man with the World's Best Job, he has enjoyed a fruitful partnership with Cicerone since the 1970s, producing more than 50 books, including guides to major trekking regions of Nepal, and to numerous routes in the Alps and Pyrenees, as well as walking guides for Kent, Sussex and the Cotswolds. His collection of autobiographical short stories, A Walk in the Clouds, is a record of 50 years of mountain travel and adventures, while Abode of the Gods tells of eight of his many trekking expeditions in the Himalaya. The Mountain Hut Book, on the other hand, is a celebration of those alpine refuges perched in remote places, brought to life through joyful tales and exciting photographs.

Kev is an honorary life member of the Outdoor Writers' and Photographers' Guild (OWPG), and an honorary member of both SELVA (the Société d'Etudes de la Littérature de Voyage Anglophone) and the British Association of International Mountain Leaders (BAIML). When not in the mountains, he lives with his wife in view of what he calls 'the Kentish Alps' with unrestricted walking country on his doorstep. But he also travels throughout Britain and abroad during the winter months to share his love of wild places through a series of lectures.

Discover more of the author’s books, see similar authors, read author blogs and more

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Customers say

Customers find the guide very comprehensive, brilliant, and easy to use. They also appreciate the detailed and clear explanations of the route. Readers describe the writing style as very well written.

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Customers find the book very comprehensive, good for planning, descriptive, insightful, and helpful. They also say it's easy to follow, has all the maps, and saves money on purchasing additional maps.

" Absolutely fantastic guide for the Tour du Mont Blanc, and I constantly referred to it during my trek..." Read more

"... Great advice and details given . Having just completed the tour myself, nearly everyone I met on the way seemed to have a copy of their own...." Read more

" Very detailed and and up-to-date information about the route (I now can verify as I did it just a few weeks ago)...." Read more

"Awesome book which made our TMB very easy . My only comment is that the walking times Kev suggests are quite optimistic for average walkers...." Read more

Customers find the book very clear, detailed, and scenic. They also say it's a crucial piece of kit for anyone.

"...For each stage you are provided with a highly detailed description including estimated time, height gain and loss, transport options, accommodation,..." Read more

"... Much more scenic . Too many group guides stick to the easiest routes and miss out on some interesting alternatives." Read more

"...I loved the book and the route as well. I'm coming back this year, this time to run it and I'm bringing this book with me as well :)" Read more

"...The Cicerone guide book is great for descriptions of the route and location of Refuges, and I would recommend it...." Read more

Customers find the writing style very well written, clear, and comprehensive.

"...I liked the layout and easy to read nature of the book ...." Read more

"Fantastic guide! Very clear and detailed and a crucial piece of kit for anyone thinking of hiking/exploring the TMB!" Read more

"A very well written and comprehensive guide to the TMB. My friends a I are planning to complete this walk. Definitely recommend it." Read more

"TREMENDOUS book - very clear and well worth it. It's updated very regularly. Good tour too by the way" Read more

Customers find the book absolutely essential on the TMB. They also say it's clear and detailed, and a crucial piece of kit for anyone thinking of climbing.

"Great book and absolutely essential on the TMB .What I would say though, is buy the paper version, not the Kindle version...." Read more

" Essential companion for the TMB ..." Read more

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The Tour Of Mont Blanc (TMB)

Everyone's heard of THE TOUR OF MONT BLANC (TMB) . The 10 to 12 day circuit of the Monarch of the Alps is Europe's most popular long mountain walk, with a memorable selection of views to dream on as one stage leads to another in a feast of mountain grandeur.

The Tour of Mont Blanc (TMB) not only describes The Tour of Mont Blanc (TMB) as the traditional anti-clockwise circuit beginning at Les Houches, down-valley from Chamonix, but in a clockwise direction too - and how different the two routes then seem! The paths may be the same, but the experience is not. If you've already tackled The Tour of Mont Blanc (TMB) and enjoyed it, why not return and try it in the opposite direction?

F or more books and pictures visit: www.kevreynolds.co.uk

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The tour of mont blanc: complete two-way trekking guide (cicerone trekking guides) - softcover, reynolds, kev.

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• Publisher Cicerone Press Limited
• Publication date 2020
• ISBN 10  1786310627
• ISBN 13  9781786310620
• Binding Paperback
• Edition number 5
• Number of pages 256

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Paperback. Condition: new. Paperback. This guidebook contains in-depth route description and mapping for both the classic 11 day anti-clockwise circuit and an alternative 10 day clockwise TMB circuit. This well-signed but demanding 170km route, starting from Les Houches or Champex, is suitable for fit walkers.The guidebook comes with a map booklet containing official 1:25,000 IGN mapping for the TMB route, and urban maps for the major centres of Chamonix, Courmayeur, Les Contamines, Les Houches and Champex.Complete with a French-English glossary, comprehensive notes about accommodation, facilities and transport, this guide provides all the information needed for planning and completing your trek. The Tour of Mont Blanc is one of the world's classic treks. Visiting France, Italy and Switzerland, the TMB passes through some of Europe's most spectacular mountain scenery, with views of the peaks and glaciers of the magnificent Mont Blanc massif. Guidebook for walking the Tour of Mont Blanc, one of the world's classic treks. The 170km TMB route typically takes 11 days and is described in both anti-clockwise and clockwise directions, with optional variants. Includes information about refuges and facilities and a separate booklet showing the entire route on IGN 1:25,000 maps. Shipping may be from multiple locations in the US or from the UK, depending on stock availability. Seller Inventory # 9781786310620

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The Ultimate Guide to the Tour du Mont Blanc

The Tour du Mont Blanc is one of the world’s most iconic treks. Frequently referred to as the ‘TMB’ for short, the Tour du Mont Blanc circumnavigates the Mont Blanc massif and takes trekkers through France, Italy, and Switzerland over the course of 11 stages. Along the way you’ll experience stunning valleys, high-mountain passes, incredible cuisine, and some of the best hiking in the world.

This guide is designed to be the perfect planning companion for your own Tour du Mont Blanc adventure. We’ve included everything you need to know to have a spectacular trip in one place, so you can be sure you’ve thought of everything. Read it through in a single go or jump to a specific section below, but rest assured knowing you’ve found the best resource on the internet for planning your Tour du Mont Blanc trek. Let’s get started!

In this Tour du Mont Blanc Guide

• How long is the Tour du Mont Blanc?
• How difficult is the Tour du Mont Blanc?
• Which direction should I hike?
• When should I hike the TMB?
• Designing your TMB Itinerary
• Shortcuts, detours, and rest days on the TMB
• Stage-by-stage Itinerary for the Tour du Mont Blanc

Tour du Mont Blanc Accommodation

• Getting to Les Houches from Geneva
• Getting to Champex from Geneva
• Luggage storage and transfer on the TMB
• Weather on the TMB
• Food and drink on the TMB
• Maps & Guidebooks
• Budgeting and money
• What to pack for the TMB
• How to train for the Tour du Mont Blanc

Everything you need to plan your TMB – all in one place.

Whether you prefer mountain huts or hotels, fastpacking or meandering, or something in between, we’ve got you covered.  Our Guide to the Tour du Mont Blanc  is the ultimate tool to help you plan your perfect trip.

When you purchase a guide, you’ll get instant access to all the information you need to plan your trip in our planning portal as well as in a downloadable PDF eGuide.

• Planning Portal Access: Get instant access to our online trip planning portal complete with 9-day, 11-day, and 12-day TMB itineraries.
• Accommodation Insights:  You’ll get information on accommodation options for every stage, including where to book when popular huts are fully booked!
• GPS Maps:  Every guide comes with custom GPS maps for three different itineraries. Download the maps for offline use so you’ll always be able to find your next campsite.
• Expert Advice:  Find detailed maps for every stage, accommodation & booking information, packing lists, and much more.

We’re confident this is the best resource available for camping on the Tour du Mont Blanc.  Pick up your guide below and if you’re not satisfied for any reason we’ll give you a full refund!

( 100% Money Back Guarantee )

About the Tour du Mont Blanc

The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is a 170-km trek that circles the Mont Blanc massif. The route is traditionally walked in the anti-clockwise direction over 11-stages. The TMB starts and finishes in the French village of  Les Houches , which sits adjacent to the popular mountain town of  Chamonix . Along the way the trail passes through seven unique and beautiful valleys, where charming hamlets and regional delicacies abound. Between the valleys, the route traverses   a rugged mountain landscape and stunning high alpine scenery.

 The TMB is one of the most popular long-distance treks in Europe, with over 10,000 hikers per year embarking on their own walk around Mont Blanc. It is easy to understand why when considering the  ease of access to the trek , plentiful  accommodation options , and the fact that the route is  achievable by most reasonably fit walkers . The closest major city to the TMB is Geneva, Switzerland, located  just a few hours north by train or bus . 

The route passes through seven mountain valleys (Val d’Arve, Val d’Montjoie, Vallee des Glaciers, Val Veny, Italian Val Ferret, Swiss Val Ferret, and Vallee du Trient) and visits charming alpine hamlets as it winds its way around Mont Blanc. Contrary to what many believe, the TMB does not go through the iconic French mountain town of Chamonix, instead taking a trail high-above this famed destination.

Want to see the entire TMB in three minutes? The fly through video below will take you along the entire circuit, providing a helpful overview of the trek.

How Long is the Tour du Mont Blanc?

The short answer: it depends!  The Tour du Mont Blanc has many variations and route options as it makes its way around Mont Blanc.  These variations include options to tackle challenging mountain passes (see the  Fenetre d’Arpette ), visit crystal clear mountain lakes (such as  Lac Blanc ), or to simply avoid some of the more challenging sections of the hike. However, the classic TMB route is approximately 170-kilometers long. Taking alternate routes may lengthen or shorten your total distance, depending on the routes chosen.  Throughout the trek, you’ll have options to walk less or more depending on the weather, your preferences, and the conditions encountered on the trail.

How Difficult is the Tour du Mont Blanc?

If you are  reasonably fit and have some trekking experience , you should be well-suited to the physical challenges of the TMB. It is a tough trek that involves  long, steep ascents and descents on nearly every stage , but it isn’t too technically demanding. Remember, the Tour du Mont Blanc is a hike not a climb! Trekkers should be prepared for long days of hiking with plenty of elevation change, but frequent services along the route make it more approachable.  Weather can add to the challenge , and hikers should be prepared to encounter rain and even snow at any time.

Many of the  stages of the TMB  are structured such that you’ll begin your hike from the valley floor, trek up and over a mountain pass, and then descend into the next valley to finish the day. This provides a nice rhythm to the Tour du Mont Blanc but can also make for some difficult days. Make sure you have healthy knees, as the downhill sections can take their toll! All that being said we truly believe that most  walkers who  invest a bit of time in training and preparation  can complete the Tour du Mont Blanc with no problems and have a great time doing it!  Our best advice is to be sure you are in good physical condition and also make sound decisions when you encounter bad weather or snow.

Get The FREE TMB Essentials Handbook

Our free PDF guide covers all the basics – when to hike, accommodation, typical costs, and more!

Your TMB Essentials Booklet will be emailed to you shortly. 

Planning Your Perfect Tour du Mont Blanc

Now that you have a bit of background on the TMB let’s get to the heart of this guide: helping you plan your perfect Tour du Mont Blanc! First, we’ll start with some basics such as  which direction  you should hike in and  what time of year  will be best for you to tackle the TMB. Then we’ll dive into some more in-depth considerations such as  designing your perfect itinerary  and selecting your  accommodation . Let’s get started!

Which Direction Should I Hike the TMB?

The TMB is traditionally hiked in an anti-clockwise direction beginning in the French town of Les Houches, adjacent to Chamonix. It is also possible to walk the route in a clockwise direction, and trekkers headed this way typically start in the Swiss town of Champex-Lac . Below we’ve outlined some pros and cons of hiking in each direction.  

Anti-Clockwise (starting in Les Houches, France)

• Follows the classic route, good if you’re a sucker for tradition.
• Begins near Chamonix, which is easier to get to from the Geneva Airport than Champex.
• Rewards hikers with jaw-dropping views of Mont Blanc on the final stage.
• More people hike in this direction, so the trail could feel more crowded throughout the day.

Clockwise (starting in Champex, Switzerland)

• Fewer hikers walking in the same direction as you.
• The first few stages are a bit mellower, allowing you to get acclimated before tackling the tougher sections.
• You’ll meet different people at each stop along the way.
• You’ll pass a large wave of people walking in the opposite direction each day, which can get tight on narrow trails.
• Champex (your starting point) has fewer amenities and is less conveniently connected by public transport than Les Houches. If you want to start in Les Houches and hike clockwise, be warned that the first day involves a very challenging climb, which can be a tough way to begin your trek.

All things considered, you will be sure to have a great time on the TMB regardless of which direction you choose to hike in. Think through your options and make the best decision for yourself!

When Should I Hike the Tour du Mont Blanc?

The hiking season for the TMB generally lasts from late June through mid-September. July and August are the busiest months, and  accommodation  (with the exception of camping) must be booked in advance. There’s a chance you could get away without advance bookings in June and September, but we still wouldn’t recommend it.

June : Early in the season, you are likely to encounter snow on the trail. Depending on the snow levels, there could be sections that will be impassible and you may need to reroute. Otherwise, expect cool evenings, bright sunny days, and less crowded trails. Keep in mind that most mountain refuges don’t open until late June.

July : Hikers could still encounter some snow along the trail, but chances of significant snow will diminish as the month wears on. Expect beautiful warm days and abundant wildflowers. This is a popular month to hike.

August : Another busy month on the trail, hikers can expect snow-free paths and warm, sunny weather. The end of August brings the  Ultra Tour du Mont Blanc trail race . Although the atmosphere during the race week is incredible, we recommend you try to avoid hiking during the UTMB to avoid crowds and logistical challenges.

September : Expect shorter days and increasingly chilly weather. This is a beautiful time to be on the trail and less crowded, although some accommodation providers may be closed for the season.

The bottom line : The best (and safest) time to hike the TMB is from late-June through early September. You’ll need to make advance bookings if you plan to hike during this time frame.

Designing Your TMB Itinerary

Now that you have a sense of which direction you’ll plan to hike in as well as which month you’ll embark of your trip it’s time to start thinking about your specific itinerary! As we’ve mentioned, the Tour du Mont Blanc in traditionally hiked over the course of 11 days, which will be a great pace for many hikers. However, there are certainly those who will want to tackle the trail in fewer days or savor their time in the Alps and extend their hike over the course of two weeks or more! 

Whatever you choose be sure to consider your personal abilities, how much time you’ll have, and what you want your typical days on the TMB to look like. Given the amount of  accommodation options  on the TMB your itinerary possibilities are nearly endless! Checkout our general guidelines below as well as our  stage-by-stage itinerary  for the traditional 11-day Tour du Mont Blanc circuit to get some ideas of your own. Here are our general guidelines for thinking about how many days you’ll need to complete the TMB:

• 8-10 days : Fast pace (8 – 10 hours of hiking each day)
• 10-11 days : Average pace (without a rest day) (6-8 hours of hiking each day)
• 11-12 days : Average pace (with a rest day) (6 – 8 hours of hiking each day)
• 12-14 days : Leisurely pace (6 – 7 hours of hiking each day)

Shortcuts, Detours, and Rest Days on the TMB

One of the great things about trekking the Tour du Mont Blanc is the ability to alter your route based on the conditions encountered. Bad weather, injuries, fatigue, burnout, limited time; there are countless reasons why you may need to use alternative means of transportation to get from one point of the TMB to another. Fortunately, the trail rarely strays too far from civilization, meaning you have tons of options along the way for when you need them. Below, we’ve listed some of the most common detours and shortcuts used on the TMB, as well as a few great resources for problem-solving your unique situation.

Bellvue Cable Car:  This option allows you to eliminate the lion’s share of the climb out of Les Houches on the traditional (anti-clockwise)  first stage of the trek . Once you get to the top, follow the signs a short way to rejoin the main trail.

La Maison Vielle Cable Car (and chairlift):  If you’d like to avoid the knee-wrenching descent into Courmayeur ( Stage 4 ), you can take a chairlift from La Maison Vieille down to Plan Chécrouit, where there’s a cable car that terminates in the town of Dolonne, across the river from Courmayeur. You can take a bus from Dolonne to Courmayeur if needed, otherwise it’s just a short walk.

La Flégère Cable Car:  This gondola departs directly next to Refuge la Flégère and ends in the village of Les Praz. From there, it’s possible to take a bus or taxi back to Chamonix. This is a good option if you need to  cut out the final day of the TMB , or if you want to hike in reverse and avoid the long, long climb out of Les Houches. You could also take the cable car down into Les Praz for more accommodation and services at this stage, and then take it back up the next morning to continue your trek.

La Chapelle to Notre Dame de la Gorge Navette : This free shuttle bus, or “navette,” runs from La Chapelle (a short walk from the trail on the outskirts of Les Contamines) to  Notre Dame de la Gorge  (at the beginning of  Stage 2 ). This means you can pick it up at the end of  Stage 1  to cut out the last hour or so of walking before reaching Les Contamines, and you can also take it from Les Contamines to Notre Dame de la Gorge on the next day to get a bit of a head start (30-60 minutes, depending on where you stay in Les Contamines).

Les Chapieux to Refuge des Mottets Navette : This shuttle allows you to avoid about 2 hours of road walking at the beginning of  Stage 3 . It only costs a few euros to ride, and you can pick it up at the tourist information office in Les Chapieux. Make sure to buy your tickets in advance (do so the previous day, at the tourist office), as the shuttle fills up quickly in the mornings!

Arriva Bus-In and around Courmayeur:  This is the bus network you’ll use if you need to take any alternative transportation in Val Ferret or Val Veny (the two valleys in the surrounding area). You can take a bus from La Visaille to Courmayeur to cut out the final hour of walking on  Stage 4 . This bus can also be used to reach  campgrounds  that are not located directly on the TMB route. Additionally, you can use the Savda bus to get to either La Fouly or Champex (although you will need to transfer in Orsières and take a Post Bus the remainder of the journey).

TMR/SBB Bus La Fouly to Champex:  You can get from La Fouly to Champex (effectively cutting out all of Stage 7) by bus. You’ll need to take line 272 from La Fouly to Orsières, where you’ll transfer to the 271 that will take you to Champex. Service is relatively frequent and easy to navigate.

SBB Train from Champex to Trient:  It’s relatively easy and straightforward to take the Swiss SBB train from Champex to Trient, effectively cutting out all of Stage 8. You need to utilize the local bus in Champex and may need to transfer a few times on the way, but Swiss trains really do live up to their reputation for being timely and efficient. 

Keep in mind that there are many more transportation options along the TMB!  We’ve simply listed a few of the most common and straightforward ones. If you need to find a specific detour, we recommend using  Rome2Rio  or  Google Maps  as a starting point. PostBus and SBB also have excellent apps that can be used to plan trips and buy tickets. 

NOTE: Many of the buses and cable cars only run during the peak months of the hiking season (July and August). Make sure that you check the websites and timetables before planning to use any of the options listed above.

Stage-by-Stage Itinerary for the Tour du Mont Blanc

We recommend most hikers take between 10-12 days to hike the Tour du Mont Blanc, depending on their hiking ability, pace preferences, and weather conditions.  The classic itinerary described below takes 11 days to complete and will be the best option for the majority of hikers.  We’ve given you a brief overview of each of the classic eleven stages, as hiked in the anti-clockwise direction. While your specific itinerary may look different, it’s still helpful to look over these stage descriptions to get an idea of what you can expect on the trail.

Be sure to check out our interactive map and elevation profile to get a comprehensive understanding of all of your options!

Stage 1: Les Houches to Les Contamines

• Distance & Elevation:  17 km // +1,112 m, -902 m
• Estimated hiking time:  5 – 6 hours
• Where to stay:   Chalet-Hôtel La Chemenaz

Description:  This stage is a perfect introduction to the TMB. It’s not too technical or demanding, yet it still gives walkers a decent challenge. You’ll start by climbing fairly steeply up out of Les Houches and past a ski area before topping out at  Col de Voza . From the Col, you’ll descend along dirt then paved roads while enjoying incredible views of the surrounding glaciers and aiguilles. Continue along the road through some very quaint hamlets, before veering off onto a trail (pay attention-this is easy to miss). You’ll end this stage by walking along a mellow riverside path all the way to Les Contamines.

Stage 2: Les Contamines to Les Chapieux

• Distance & Elevation:  19 km // +1,440 m, -1,024 m
• Estimated hiking time:  7 – 8 hours
• Where to stay:   Auberge de la Nova

Description:  Start this stage by passing by the  Baroque chapel of Notre Dame de la Gorge . From there, you’ll follow an old Roman road steadily uphill before getting a break when the trail levels out and passes through open meadowland. After that, prepare for another steep climb, much of it on stony steps and scree, up first to the saddle of Col du Bonhomme, and then even higher to the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme. Here you’ll find the  Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme , which makes a great spot to enjoy a break and small meal. Early in the season, it’s common to encounter snow on this section.

Upon reaching the summit of Col de la Croix du Bonhomme, begin your descent towards Les Chapieux. The trail on the way down begins as a steep footpath, eases to join a jeep road for a bit, and then finishes with steep zigzags through a pasture above Les Chapieux.

Stage 3: Les Chapieux to Rifugio Elisabetta

• Distance & Elevation:  14 km // +1,079 m, -480 m
• Where to stay:   Rifugio Elisabetta

Description:  Choose to begin this stage with either a couple of miles of road walking, or by short-cutting it on a bus to  Refuge des Mottets . From the refuge, you’ll begin a relatively short and easy climb to the Col de la Seigne. Reaching the Col is special for a few reasons. First it marks the first of three international borders that you’ll cross on your trek. Standing at the top of the Col, you can look back towards France while also gazing ahead into Italy. Additionally, the wide-open views here are downright marvelous. From Col de la Seigne, enjoy a mellow descent to Rifugio Elisabetta.

Stage 4: Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur

• Distance & Elevation:  16 km // +603 m, -1,536 m
• Where to stay:   Maison La Saxe

Description:  As indicated by the elevation statistics, this stage is dominated by a very long and steep descent into Courmayeur. Before beginning that section, however, you’ll cross through the expansive Vallon de la Lee Blanche, where Lac Combal reflects the magnificent surrounding peaks. From there, you’ll climb for awhile on an undulating path to reach Col Chécrouit, where the path begins its long downhill trajectory.

After passing a few ski areas (options to take the cable car down may be available), you’ll complete numerous switchbacks through the woods until you reach the quaint town of Dolonne. Walk through the town of Dolonne and cross the river to enter Courmayeur. Enjoy a wide arrange of excellent food and luxurious accommodation in Courmayeur. This is also a great place to take a rest day.

Stage 5: Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti

• Distance & Elevation:  12 km // +1,225 m, -415 m
• Estimated hiking time:  5 hours
• Where to stay:   Rifugio Bonatti

Description:  The views along this stage are some of the most spectacular of the entire walk, but you have to earn them with a very steep climb at the outset. You’ll enjoy the satisfaction of watching Courmayeur grow ever smaller down below you as you zigzag your way up the hillside to Rifugio Bertone.

From the Rifugio, you’ll enjoy an undulating, mellow walk with unparalleled views of Col de la Seigne, Aiguille Noire, Mont Blanc and the Grandes Jorasses. It’s an incredible experience to look back and see Col de la Seigne far in the distance, knowing you’ve traversed such an expanse in just a few days with your own two feet. The beautiful views continue to abound all the way until you reach Rifugio Bonatti, an atmospheric and memorable place to spend the night.

Stage 6: Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly

• Distance & Elevation:  19 km // +1,032 m, -1,456 m
• Estimated hiking time:  6 – 7 hours
• Where to stay:   Hotel Edelweiss

Description:  This stage rewards hikers with another border crossing and more tremendous views. The walk begins with a relatively flat path that crosses a lovely hillside. Eventually, you’ll descend into Val Ferret (the Ferret Valley) before beginning a steep climb past Rifugio Elena and up further until you finally reach the Grand Col Ferret. At the top of the pass, you’ll enjoy your first views of Switzerland as well as phenomenal views of majestic peaks in every direction. It’s all downhill from there, much of which is pretty manageable, save for a few steep sections. There’s a rather uninspiring stretch of road walking at the very end of the day, but the charming town of  La Fouly  makes it all worth it.

Stage 7: La Fouly to Champex

• Distance & Elevation:  15 km // +729 m, -860 m
• Estimated hiking time:  4 – 5 hours
• Where to stay:  Au Vieux Champex

Description:  All of the guidebooks will tell you that this is the easiest day of the TMB (which is technically true), but don’t expect this stage to be completely effortless. Sometimes the “easiest” days can end up feeling really tough if we go into them with too cavalier a mindset. The first two thirds of this stage are quite mellow indeed; you’ll wind your way gently downhill through a quintessential Swiss valley filled with small farms and picturesque hamlets.

A substantial climb to Champex waits for you at the end of the stage, however. Even though it really is much less strenuous than the ascents of previous stages, it can be a shock to the body at the end of the day. Fortunately, the trail stays in the shade of the trees for much of the way up, and you’ll also get to experience the many wooden sculptures that are interspersed throughout the woods.

Stage 8: Champex to Col de la Forclaz

• Distance & Elevation:  14 km // +1,125 m, -1,066 m
• Where to stay:   Hotel de la Forclaz

Description:  On stage 8, the main TMB route follows an undulating path up to the Alp Bovine and then descends to Col de la Forclaz, but there are quite a few options to consider here. The Fenêtre d’Arpette route is a popular variant for those seeking challenge and adventure. With either route, you’ll also have a few options to choose from when it comes to your stopping point. For a shorter day, you can stop at  Hotel de la Forclaz  or you can continue on further to either Le Puety or Trient. There isn’t a clear “best” choice for what to do on stage 8, but it is important to think about what is best for you in terms of challenge, distance, and accommodation.

Stage 9: Col de la Forclaz to Tré-le-Champ

• Distance & Elevation:  14 km // +1,112 m, -1,229 m
• Where to stay:   Auberge la Boerne

Description:  This stage isn’t without physical demands, gaining and losing quite a bit of elevation in a relatively short distance. While most of the climb maintains a grade that isn’t crazy steep, the descent is another story. Even if you don’t love the arduous nature of stage 9, you’ll almost certainly be smitten by the scenery. Not only does summiting Col de Balme mean you’ll celebrate your third and final border crossing (back into France), but you’ll also get incredible views of Mont Blanc, back in sight for the first time in several days. Seeing Mont Blanc again and being back on French soil will likely remind you that your trek is nearing its end. Make sure to savor the final two stages of this incredible experience!

Stage 10: Tré-le-Champ to La Flégère

• Distance & Elevation:  7 km // +892 m, -446 m
• Estimated hiking time:  4 hours
• Where to stay:   Refuge de la Flégère

Description:  Allow yourself to sleep in on this stage, as you’ll have just a short walk ahead of you. Better yet, get to Refuge la Flégère early and enjoy a walk to the nearby Lac Blanc and a meal or beverage at the refuge. The final two days of the TMB follow the Grand Balcon Sud, a balcony trail with unrivaled views of Mont Blanc and the surrounding peaks. To reach the high point, you’ll need to climb a series of ladders, catwalks, and platforms that go on for longer than you might expect. If you have a fear of heights, we recommend taking the Col des Montets variant. This route takes about the same amount of time and still has great views. Upon reaching Refuge la Flégère, join in the festive revelry of your fellow hikers marking their final night on the trail.

Stage 11: La Flégère to Les Houches

• Distance & Elevation:  17 km // +969 m, -1,821 m
• Where to stay:   Hotel Le Morgane  (Chamonix)

Description:  The final stage of the TMB is a big one in every way. Even though it’s dominated by downhill walking, the physical demands shouldn’t be overlooked. Start the walk on a very mellow uphill grade, before beginning a steeper climb past a ski area until reaching Col du Brevent. Take in the scenery (and catch your breath) here, but keep in mind that the best is yet to come. Climb further on more rugged terrain until you reach the almost-summit of Le Brevent (you can take a 5-minute detour to get to the actual top if you’d like).

From Le Brevent you’ll have an unobstructed and totally breathtaking vantage point from which to take in the entire Mont Blanc range. Take time to study every intricate glacier and craggy spire before finally tearing yourself away to make your way down towards Les Houches. Fortunately, you’ll continue to enjoy the scenery for awhile as you descend on a very long and very steep path. As you near Les Houches, the trail enters the woods where it passes a zoo and the large Christ Roi statue. Finally, the path ends at a road and perhaps the least scenic part of Les Houches. Keep walking to reach the more charming part of town, then stop and toast to your remarkable accomplishment!

There are accommodation options along the TMB to suit every budget and travel style. While not all of these options are available at every stage of the route, you can certainly customize your itinerary to fit your needs. It’s nearly inevitable that you’ll need to stay in a mountain refuge on at least one stage of your trek. Be prepared for basic, communal facilities, but don’t fear! These special places often yield the most memorable stays of the entire trip.  We’ve provided a brief explanation of each of the options below:

Hotels on the Tour du Mont Blanc

Typically small and independently owned, the hotels along the TMB serve up a dose of luxury to the weary hiker. Unless otherwise noted by the hotel, expect all of the usual amenities (hot shower, private bathroom, breakfast offered, linens and towels provided, etc). Hotels typically cost upwards of €65 per person. For an additional fee, many hotels offer half-pension (AKA half-board or demi-pension ) which includes dinner and breakfast. A few hotels along the route have dortoirs in addition to private rooms. Dortoirs are dormitories that offer a good budget option. 

Read More: TMB Accommodation and Refuge Guide

Refuges on the Tour du Mont Blanc

We consider a stay in a mountain hut to be a highlight of any TMB trek. Set in stunning and remote locations, the ambiance at the refuges (or rifugios in Italian) can’t be beat. Half-pension gets you a bed in a dorm (linens not provided), a delicious communal dinner, and a basic breakfast. Some refuges also offer private rooms (with shared bathrooms). Expect to pay around €55 per person for half-board in a dorm.

Gites d’Etape and Auberges

These are simple guest houses offering basic, dorm-style accommodation. Half-pension (dinner and breakfast) is typically included in the price. There are shared bathroom facilities with hot showers. Bed linens are usually provided. These are a good option for those who want to stick to a smaller budget, but don’t want to carry camping gear. Expect to pay around €50 per person for half-pension.

Camping on the Tour du Mont Blanc

Although they are the cheapest accommodation option along the TMB, the campgrounds on the route are quite luxurious. All provide sinks and toilets, and many offer hot showers and even WiFi! Expect to pay around €15 per person to camp. Note: you cannot camp on every stage of the TMB.  Be sure to check out our Complete Guide to Camping on the Tour du Mont Blanc for a full camping itinerary.

Do I Need to Book my Accommodation in Advance?

This is a question that creates stress and anxiety for many hikers as they are planning for their TMB adventure. The short answer is that you should try to book your accommodation as early as possible, but the longer answer is a bit more nuanced. We’ve broken it down for you here, so you can plan with more confidence and less worry.

• Mountain refuges  are the most important to book ahead of time. Many of these huts are quite small, so they fill up quickly. Many refuges accept reservations year-round, typically allowing you to book up to 12 months in advance. Some, however, do not respond to reservation requests during the winter months (September-March, typically). You should still try to email or call the refuge to reserve your spot as soon as you know your itinerary, even if it’s prior to March.
• Gites, auberges, and guesthouses  should be your next priority when it comes to advance bookings. This is especially true in the smaller villages where accommodation options are limited, and/or if you have specific preferences for your lodging (ex; private room, linens provided, etc). As soon as you’ve made your travel plans, reach out to the gite/guesthouse (or book online). For peak summer months, it’s optimal to have these bookings made by the end of March.
• For larger hotels,  you have a bit more wiggle room when it comes to making reservations. You should definitely still try to do it as early as possible, but they have more rooms and are often located in places with greater availability of lodging options.
•   You do not need to make advance reservations for any of the campgrounds on the TMB.  In fact, we recommend that you don’t. This will allow you to maximize the freedom and flexibility that camping provides, and it will make it much less complicated to check in at the campgrounds.

Booking your Accommodation for the Tour du Mont Blanc

When it comes to booking your TMB accommodation, there’s good news and bad news. Let’s get the bad news out of the way first.  There’s no single, streamlined booking platform for all of the refuges and/or accommodation providers along the route.  In fact, the way you book will vary greatly from place to place. The good news is that most (but not all) can be booked using the Autour du Mont Blanc platform . Many refuges, hotels, and gites also have their own websites with easy online booking platforms. Some require that you send an email or complete a contact form on their website.

The TMB is relatively easy to get to given its close proximity to Geneva, Switzerland. Flight connections from the rest of Europe, the US, and other international destinations are frequent. Travel by train to Geneva is also straightforward, if not a bit more time consuming than air travel. We recommend booking you flights as soon as you are able, as fares during the peak summer season can be quite high.

Getting to Chamonix/Les Houches from Geneva

The vast majority of walkers will get to the start of the Tour du Mont Blanc by first flying into the Geneva Airport (GVA). There are frequent flights to Geneva from the rest of Europe as well as a good number of flights from the U.S. Once you’ve landed in Geneva, you’ll have several options for getting to Chamonix/Les Houches:

• FlixBus   – This is one of the least expensive and highest rated options. The service departs directly from the Geneva Airport and will take you to the Chamonix Sud bus station, in the heart of Chamonix. Expect the journey to take about two hours.
• AlpyBus  – AlpyBus runs a door to door transfer service from the Geneva Airport to hotels in the Chamonix Valley. It is more costly than FlixBus, but also more convenient since they’ll drop you directly at your hotel or campground.
• Mountain Drop-offs  – Similar to AlpyBus, Mountain Drop-offs runs a door-to-door transfer service for walkers arriving in Geneva. Very highly rated.

All of the options above will also be able to transport you back to the Geneva Airport at the end of the TMB. Many also offer discounts for booking a return ticket.

Getting to Champex from Geneva (for clockwise TMB hikers)

If you plan on walking the Tour du Mont Blanc in the clockwise direction, you may be choose to start your hike in the Swiss town of Champex. You’ll likely begin your travel by first flying into the Geneva Airport (GVA).  Once you’ve landed in Geneva, you’ll need to connect via train and local bus to reach Champex. Unlike Chamonix, you have few options other than public transportation to reach Champex. However, Swiss trains are renowned for being on time and generally pleasant. Here are the instructions for reaching Champex from the Geneva Airport:

• Step One – Train to Martigny : Upon exiting the airport in Geneva you’ll need to catch a train to the Swiss town of Martigny. Most of these trains will be signed in the direction of Brig, so be sure to inquire that the train you are boarding stops in Martigny. The journey should take around 1 hour and 45 minutes.
• Step Two – Train to Sembrancher : From Martigny you’ll take a 15-minute train ride to the town of Sembrancher.
• Step Three – Train to Orsières : From Sembrancher, you’ll catch another train to the town of Orsieres. This is a short, 10-minute ride from Sembrancher.
• Step Four – Local bus to Champex : Unfortunately, Champex is not on a train line so you’ll have to complete the final leg of your journey via the local bus. From outside the Orsieres train station, you’ll need to catch bus #271 to Champex. The ride takes approximately 30 minutes and will drop you conveniently in the center of Champex.

The Swiss train provider,  SBB , has an excellent website to help you plan your journey. We also recommend downloading the SBB app to your phone, which is very helpful for viewing timetables while traveling.  Rome2Rio  is also an excellent resource for mapping out your specific trip. 

Luggage Storage and Transfer on the Tour du Mont Blanc

Many walkers will be traveling with more luggage than they might want to carry for the entire TMB. Storing extra luggage or having it transferred to your next stop is a great way to avoid carrying excess weight on your trek, while still allowing you to have everything you need for the remainder of your trip. This is especially true if you plan on traveling elsewhere on your holiday.

Luggage Storage on the TMB

Unfortunately, there are no luggage storage facilities at the train station in Chamonix. Walkers can store their extra luggage at the  Gite le Chamoniard , which charges €4-6 per day, depending on the size of the bag. Other hotels and accommodation may store your baggage if you have a reservation before and after you walk, but you’ll want to confirm this ahead of time.

Luggage Transfer on the TMB

If you’re concerned about the difficulty of the TMB and have room in your budget, using a luggage transfer service can be an excellent way to reduce your effort on the trail and make your trek more enjoyable. Both of the companies we’ve recommended below come highly rated and allow you to customize services to your itinerary and preferences. Each morning of your trek, you’ll simply leave your bag in the designated storage location to be picked up by 8:00am. Your luggage carrier will deliver your bags to the next stop on your itinerary by 6:00pm each evening. Keep in mind that they will not be able to deliver your luggage to any of the mountain refuges that are inaccessible by road (including Rifugio Bonatti and Rifugio Elisabetta). Additionally, they will not drop your luggage at private residences or AirBnB’s.

• Besson Taxi Mont Blanc : This carrier typically charges between €150-€300 per bag for transfers, depending on how many days you use their services and how many people are in your group. They charge per bag and have a strict policy that bags may not exceed 15kg. This company also can provide shuttle services between stops on the TMB, if needed.
• Chamonix Valley Transfers : This company offers a variety of customizable luggage shuttles that range in price from €400-€800 for up to eight bags. The price increases with the number of stops added to your itinerary. They get good reviews for their reliability and friendly service.

Tour du Mont Blanc Weather

Mountain weather is always volatile, and what you’ll experience on the Tour du Mont Blanc is no different. Conditions can change very rapidly in the Alps, meaning that you can find yourself in the middle of a whiteout blizzard or on an exposed ridge during a thunderstorm without much warning. However, for the most part the weather during the hiking season is ridiculously lovely. Expect warm, sunny days, cool evenings, and not too much rain. You should also need to be prepared for very hot temperatures, very cold temperatures, rain, and storms (and you could even see all of these in the same day!)

Getting caught high up in the mountains during a storm or without the right gear is extremely dangerous, but you can greatly minimize your risk by taking a few important precautions:

• Meteoblue  is arguably the best resource for predicting the weather.  It allows you to see the forecast for specific peaks or coordinates, plus it has excellent radar displays and wind predictions. Check it every time you have cell service.  Chamonix-meteo  also gives detailed and accurate forecasts for the Mont Blanc region.
• If you’re ever unsure about whether you should hike in the current conditions, it can be helpful to  ask the warden at the nearest mountain refuge.  When in doubt, it’s usually better to air on the side of caution and give the mountains the respect they deserve. You can almost always find a detour or shortcut to get back on track the following day.
• Start hiking early in the day!  This will allow you to avoid hiking in the heat of the day and greatly reduce your risk of getting caught in afternoon thunderstorms.

Food & Drink on the TMB

One of the many wonderful things about the Tour du Mont Blanc is that you don’t need to worry about carrying (and eating) eleven days’ worth of underwhelming freeze-dried backpacker meals.  Due to the fact that the trail passes through many towns and villages, you will be able to resupply every few days.   For budget travelers,  it is possible to self-cater and keep your food and drink costs quite reasonable.  You’ll need to bring your own camp stove and cooking equipment if you plan on fixing most of your own meals along the TMB. You can purchase baguettes, good local cheese and charcuterie, fresh fruit, and delicious pastries for very reasonable prices.

Most of the shops along the route have convenient foods like instant noodles and canned soups, as well as dried fruits, nuts, energy bars, and other snacks so you should have no problem putting together quick and delicious meals and snacks along the route. Some hikers choose to use some backpacker meals and supplement with foods they purchase along the way.

Additionally (for those with slightly deeper pockets),  nearly all of the hotels, gites, and refuges offer the option of purchasing meals.  You can just show up for lunch or a snack, but  you’ll need to order ahead of time for dinner.  Most refuges and many hotels and gites offer the option of half-board ( demi pension ), which includes dinner and breakfast.

Dinners at the mountain refuges are typically indulgent, multi-course affairs. Expect a soup or salad as a starter, a hearty pasta dish as the main, and either a cheese course or dessert to finish. Breakfast is much simpler, typically consisting of a selection of breads, cold cereals, juice, and coffee or tea.

Whichever way you approach your food and drink strategy, we think you’ll find that trekking in the Alps is every bit as much a culinary delight as a natural one!

Dietary Restrictions

The restaurants and accommodation providers along the TMB are generally quite willing to provide a vegetarian option.  Those who are vegan, gluten-free, or have a specialized diet will have a harder time finding suitable meals.  While certain places will be able to accommodate your needs, that will be the exception and not the norm. Make sure to inform all of your lodging providers of your dietary needs in advance, as they will be much more likely to accommodate you. That being said, we’d recommend bringing along plenty of your own food as a back up.

All of the hotels, gites, and campgrounds provide potable water ( eau potable ). You will pass through many villages with public drinking fountains, but make sure to plan ahead and carry 1-2 liters of water each day. Due to the presence of agricultural activity near large swaths of the trail, we do not recommend drinking any water from natural streams without filtering it first.

If you need to purchase fuel for a camp stove, your best bet is to get this in Chamonix or Les Houches. Both towns have outdoor retailers that sell a few different kinds of fuel, and will be able to accommodate most standard stove types. It is unlikely that you’ll be able to find it at most of the stops you’ll pass through along the TMB, so plan on getting enough fuel to last your entire trek.

Maps & Guidebooks for the Tour du Mont Blanc

Carrying a good map is essential on the Tour du Mont Blanc.  While the trail is generally well-marked and easy to follow, there are countless trail junctions, detours, and confusing sections that require some form of navigation.

When we hiked the Tour du Mont Blanc we did not rely on traditional, paper maps that are available for the route. Instead,  we preferred utilizing GPS maps on our phones to ensure we knew where the trail was as well as where we were in relation to it . Cell phone service is very limited along the TMB, so  it is critical to have a good offline mapping app such as  Gaia GPS  to ensure you’ll be able to view the map at any point along the route.

You can learn more about how to navigate on the Tour du Mont Blanc here. 

With all this considered,  we still recommend carrying a paper map.  While technology has done a tremendous amount to make navigating while hiking easier, there is simply no replacement for carrying a physical map with you. We recommend bringing the  IGN 3630 OT Chamonix  and  IGN 3531 ET St-Gervais  with you, as they provide a detailed view of the TMB route. A weatherproof carrying case  like this one  wouldn’t hurt to have either.

Find everything you need to know about Tour du Mont Blanc maps here.

As for guidebooks, you’ll have two excellent options to choose from. The first, and the one we recommend, is Kev Reynolds excellent  Tour of Mont Blanc: Complete two-way trekking guide  published by the renowned guidebook company, Cicerone. Another good option is the  Trailblazer Guides Tour du Mont Blanc guidebook . Trail Blazer guides are known for their excellent maps and exhaustive list of accommodation options. 

Budgeting & Money on the Tour du Mont Blanc

At first glance, the Tour du Mont Blanc might seem physically daunting, but many might find it even more financially intimidating.  The beautiful thing about the TMB, however, is that it’s pretty much up to you how expensive you want to make it.  There are hikers who choose to spend more to take guided tours, stay in private rooms at upscale hotels and huts, and buy all of their meals at restaurants along the way. Others take a more frugal approach, camping as much as possible, cooking their own meals, and minimizing expenses wherever they can.

Regardless of your budget and travel style, it’s important to get an idea of what to expect in terms of expenses so you can plan accordingly and avoid any stressful situations when it comes to money.  Additionally, you might find that an experience like the TMB is more within reach than you originally thought, if you just make a few intentional decisions when planning your travel.

In this section, we’ve broken down the typical costs for things like transportation, accommodation, and food. Obviously, prices will vary from place to place, but this should give you a good starting point.

• Average Hut Price: €65 (per person)
• Average Campsite Price: €15 (per person)
• Hotel in Chamonix for before and after the hike: €140 (per night)
• Hotel in Courmayeur for rest day: €150 (per night)
• Bus from Geneva to Chamonix: €50 (round trip)
• Bus from Chamonix to Les Houches: €3 (each way)
• Shuttle Bus from Les Chapieux to Refuge Des Mottets: €3
• Average one-way cable car ticket: €25
• Bottle of Wine: €10
• Baguette: €2
• Breakfast/Lunch Mountain Hut: €15
• Dinner at Mountain Hut: €25
• Coffee/Tea: €3
• Sandwich: €10
• Stove Fuel: €7
• Laundry: €4 for wash and dry

Find more detail on how to budget for the Tour du Mont Blanc here. 

Cash or Credit?

While an increasing number of accommodation providers, shops, and other services are beginning to accept credit cards,  cash is still the primary payment method used along the TMB . It is important to carry enough cash to cover all of your expenses for several days, as   ATMs are infrequent along the trail . Below we’ve provided a list of stops along the TMB that have ATMs:

• Les Houches
• Les Contamines
• Argentiere*

*These stops require a short detour from the main TMB route.

Currency on the TMB

The TMB crosses the borders of three different countries, meaning that  you’ll need to switch from using Euros in France to Swiss Francs in Switzerland then back to Euros upon entering Italy . While most places in Switzerland will accept Euros, you’ll be better off using Francs if you can.

What to Pack for the Tour du Mont Blanc

Making smart choices about what to pack (and what to leave behind) is a vital part of setting yourself up for a successful and enjoyable Tour du Mont Blanc experience.  It’s simple- the heavier your pack, the harder your effort . However, with a little thoughtful planning, you can keep your pack weight manageable while still ensuring you have everything you need to be comfortable on the trail and while relaxing at the refuges, campgrounds, and villages along the way.

Find our complete Tour du Mont Blanc Packing List here.  

Our best advice for packing for the Tour du Mont Blanc is to adopt the mantra  less is more . Here’s a few tips for ensuring you pack weight is manageable:

• You only need a couple of shirts. Same goes for underwear and socks. You’ll have plenty of time and sunshine to wash and dry laundry Second, clothes are heavy, so cutting out everything but the absolute essentials will make a huge difference.
• Plan out when/where you’ll restock food provisions and don’t carry more food than you need. This is especially true for those camping along the route.
• Consider leaving your bulky camera equipment at home. Unless photography is your passion, most smartphones take great photos and save a ton of space and weight.

  A few of our essential items for the Tour du Mont Blanc are outlined below:

• Trekking poles : You (and your knees) will be so glad to have them on steep sections, and this is especially true for campers who are carrying heavier loads
• A good backpack:  Backpacks need to be broken in through use, and your body needs to get used to the feeling of wearing it for extended periods of time. In terms of size, most campers will need between 45 and 65 liters. Those staying in refuges will find that 30-40L is perfect
• Down jacket:  We’ve found this to be a perfect piece of gear for the Tour du Mont Blanc. It can be quite chilly in the Alps in the early morning and evenings, but a heavy fleece or bulky jacket can really sabotage a lightweight pack.
• Ear plugs:  A must for sleeping in mountain refuges!
• Good base  layers:  A good base layer is an essential part of any complete TMB gear list. We always bring a high-quality merino wool base layer and recommend all TMB hikers do the same.
• How to Train for the Tour du Mont Blanc

With just a bit of advance work and preparation, you can make sure you’re physically ready to have your best experience on the Tour du Mont Blanc. Because of its relatively low elevation and minimal technicality, the TMB is a pretty approachable long-distance trek for the casual hiker. That being said, it’s still a serious physical challenge that will push your body to new limits. You will enjoy your trip infinitely more if you train ahead of time. Here is a rough outline of a training plan to get you in shape for the TMB:

• Six Months Before Your Trip: Build the Base  Obviously, everyone will approach the TMB with varying levels of fitness, past injuries, and overall health needs. You’ll know your individual situation best, but you should generally focus on building your aerobic endurance in the months leading up to your trip. Start to incorporate longer bouts of walking or running into your regular fitness routine.
• Three Months Before Your Trip: Go Uphill  Ideally, at this point in your training you should increase the frequency and intensity of your hiking. If possible, try to hit the trails once a week and select hikes that would take two hours or longer with at least 1,500 feet of elevation gain.
• Two Months Before Your Trip: Put on Your Pack  In the eight weeks or so before your trip, try get in as many longer hikes (or walks) with your gear as possible. Think of it as a “dress rehearsal” for your trek. The benefits of breaking in your gear at this point are twofold. First, you’ll be able to test your boots, backpack, socks, and so on to ensure that they fit well during longer hikes. Second, you’ll begin training your body to hike while wearing a heavy backpack.
• One Month Before Your Trip: Time for a Test Run  If at all possible, try to take a 1-2 night backpacking trip in your local woods. If you aren’t planning on camping along the TMB you don’t need to take an overnight trip, but you should still try to fit in two back-to-back days of long, hard hiking. This important step allows you to try out different ways of packing your backpack for maximum fit and comfort, practice setting up camp, and get your body used to hiking for consecutive days in a row.

Follow our outline above and you will be able to enjoy every moment of your incredible trip so much more. Plus, the time and effort you spend working towards your goal will make the real thing that much sweeter!

For more details on how to train for the Tour du Mont Blanc check out our comprehensive guide here. 

Let Us Make Your TMB Trip A Success

We have used our experience, research, and passion to create effective and trail-tested resources for all TMB hikers. If you plan to trek without the support of a tour company, our resources can help you with the logistics of preparing for the trip of a lifetime.

• Camping Guide (Our Best Seller): If camping is more your style, our dedicated camping guide is just for you. It includes detailed campground descriptions and camping-specific itineraries.
• GPS Digital Downloads (2nd Best Seller): Navigate the TMB with ease using our GPS files, updated yearly and compatible with most devices. The files cover the entire trek, including common alternate routes.
• Guide to the TMB:  Our comprehensive guide includes everything you need to know about the TMB. It’s available on our online planning portal and as a downloadable eGuide. The guide includes accommodation recommendations, offline GPS & maps, and video fly-throughs of the trail.
• Custom Itineraries:  We’ll help you design a TMB itinerary that fits your specific needs, including your trip length, accommodation type, hiking ability, budget, and more.
• Custom GPS Files:  For a truly personalized experience, we can create a GPS file customized to your specific itinerary, including your accommodations and route preferences.

As passionate hikers, we’ve made it our goal to empower you with all the information you need for your best TMB experience. We’ve helped over 2,500 hikers prepare for their trips, navigate on the trail, and simplify the planning process.

What’s Next?

If you’ve made it through our post above, you’re well on your way to having an incredible experience on the Tour du Mont Blanc. However, you still have lots of preparation before you’re truly ready! Be sure to read our entire series on the TMB to learn everything you’ll need to know to prepare for your trip and don’t hesitate to comment with your questions below!

• Tour du Mont Blanc Packing List – Be sure you’ve got everything you need!
• Tour du Mont Blanc Logistics – Don’t forget the small details!
• How to Navigate on the TMB – Turn your smartphone into a GPS!
• How to find all of your campgrounds on the TMB – Know where you are and where you’re going!
• TMB Trip Report – Know what to expect!
• 10 Essentials for the Tour du Mont Blanc- The quick and dirty basics
• Guide to Camping on the Tour du Mont Blanc – The essential resource!
• Tour du Mont Blanc Photo Galley – Find some inspiration!
• How to hike the TMB for (nearly) free – save BIG on your TMB costs!
• How Much It Cost Us to Hike the TMB
• Tour du Mont Blanc Map
• Tour du Mont Blanc Accommodation and Refuge Guide

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We’re Emily and Ian, outdoor lovers and planning nerds who live in Boulder, Colorado. The only thing we love more than researching and mapping out our next adventure, is actually being out there on the trail. Between the two of us, we’ve been to over 30 countries, and much of our travel in these countries has been on two feet or two wheels. When we’re not in a far-flung destination, we spend a lot of time exploring the amazing camping, hiking, and biking destinations in our home state of Colorado. Learn More About Us

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The Most Beautiful (and Skippable) Stages of the Tour Du Mont Blanc

Purchases made through some links on this page may provide The Detour Effect with commissions (at no extra cost to you). Thank you!

We all hope to complete a long trek like the Tour du Mont Blanc mile-for-mile, but life happens. You may decide it’s best to skip a section of the hike due to dangerous weather conditions or a nagging injury. You may intend to do every stage as planned, but find yourself worrying that you’re missing out due to a foggy, viewless forecast. When taking real-time obstacles into account and considering your plan of action, it’s helpful to know which stages of the Tour du Mont Blanc are the most scenic and which stages are a bit more…skippable.

For Reference: My Tour du Mont Blanc Itinerary

Last week I finally completed my circuit of the Mont Blanc massif through the French, Italian, and Swiss Alps. Back in 2019 when I aimed to complete five long-distance solo treks back-to-back , my Tour du Mont Blanc attempt was foiled by the Planpincieux glacier scare. I was determined to come back and finish it the next year, but then COVID happened. Now in 2022, I’m grateful to be able to finish what I started. 

I completed 100 miles in 10 days going anti-clockwise, starting from Les Houches. I camped most nights and carried a large backpack full of camping gear, but also stayed at two refuges (Bonatti and Elisabetta) and one hotel (Hotel Ottoz in Courmayeur; two hotels if you count the final night after I was done hiking back in Chamonix). I am now officially qualified to offer my opinion on which stages have the best views on the Tour du Mont Blanc , as well as the sections that were my least favorite. 

💸 Read my cost comparison of how much you’ll spend on a self-guided Tour du Mont Blanc hike via tent camping vs. booking hotels, hotels, or refuges.

There are many alternative variations you can choose to take on the TMB. I didn’t plan all my navigational choices out in advance. When I was in the midst of my hike, sometimes I would consult my guidebook , other hikers, or Google for opinions on the best course of action for the following day, especially if it looked like we might have bad weather or if I was hoping to avoid piling stress onto my temperamental knees. I hope this article will be an asset to other hikers approaching their TMB in the same manner.

In comparison to other long hikes, I think it’s very important to have a bit of flexibility on the Tour du Mont Blanc. The alpine weather can change on a dime and the forecasts are not always correct. It’s also essential to be kind to your body in light of the repeated and sometimes grueling ascents and descents so you don’t burn out too quickly. On the TMB, almost every day you will go up, up, up over a mountain pass, and then down, down, down back into a valley. By Day 9 I was losing some of my enthusiasm for this pattern.

For reference, my Tour du Mont Blanc itinerary looked like this:

Day 1 : Les Houches to Les Contamines (camping at Le Pontet ) Day 2 : Les Contamines to Les Chapieux (camping for free in the field) Day 3 : Les Chapieux to Refugio Elisabetta Day 4 : Refugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur ( Hotel Ottoz ) Day 5 : Courmayeur to Refugio Bonatti Day 6 : Refugio Bonatti to La Fouly (camping at Camping des Glaciers ) Day 7 : La Fouly to Champex (camping at Camping Les Rocailles ) Day 8 : Champex to Col de la Forclaz/Trient (camping at Hotel de la Forclaz ) Day 9 : Trient to Tré-le-Champ (camping at Auberge La Boerne ) Day 10 : Tré-le-Champ to Chamonix ( Hotel La Chaumière Mountain Lodge )

*If you don’t have time to complete the entire 10-day trek but still want to see some of the best views of the Tour du Mont Blanc, check out my article for France Today about day hikes you can reach along the TMB via public transportation.

The Most Beautiful Stages on the Tour du Mont Blanc

You’ll notice a pattern in my selected favorites; I really enjoyed the Cols, or mountain passes, and generally any high points along the trail. 

The first half of Day 4 (Refugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur)

Upon descending to the valley from Refugio Elisabetta, you’ll have a flat, relaxing road walk, which is a surprisingly peaceful start to a day on the TMB. Then you’ll start climbing up towards Mont Favre, the high point of the day. The sweeping panoramic views will change with each step, giving you a million opportunities to stop and take photos from different perspectives. Towards the east the rolling green hills nourish sheep and cows. A shepherd who lives on the hillside during the summer will come out to greet you and chat about the ibex and wolves he’s seen this year. Towards the west, the dramatic Mont Blanc massif is unrelenting in its stark and imposing beauty. You’ll behold Mont Blanc itself, supported by surrounding peaks which shelve glaciers and expel waterfalls from the melt. All of this combines to make the first half of Day 4 one of the best stages of the Tour du Mont Blanc.

There is one section of downhill switchbacks with loose rock where you’ll want to be careful with your steps, but at a certain point you are not really going up or down much anymore, just traversing mountainside meadows and enjoying your surroundings. I was impressed all the way until we reached a forested area where it’s time to descend towards Maison Vieille. From here you’ll meet with a lot of day hikers and the landscape becomes less and less wild. Once at Maison Vieille, you have the option to take a chairlift down into Courmayeur, which is what I advise below under “Least Rewarding Stages”. 

Day 3 Col de la Seigne

The journey to Col de la Seigne is long and arduous, but stunning and worth the effort. You might be leaving from the Col des Fours variation the previous day, which means you’re starting around Refuge des Mottets. If you’re starting from Les Chapieux like me, there is a long, straight walk from there to Mottets first (as a side note, please take the actual TMB for this section. It’s a lovely grasslands walk. I don’t understand why I was the only one who followed the TMB sign to get off the road while everyone else walked on the highway from Chapieux to Mottets, how boring!). 

From Mottets you begin a series of endless switchbacks up into the mountains. It blurs together, but there are a few distinct places where you finally leave one series of switchbacks, walk a flatter section that will bring you around a bend to a different mountain view than you had before, and onto….another series of switchbacks. Rinse repeat. I liked that new views were provided with each new cluster of switchbacks, slowly winding you further into the fold of the mountain range. Just don’t get too excited when it appears that your current set is ending; most likely, you have not yet reached the Col. There is one particularly cruel cairn of rocks about 15 minutes prior to the actual Col that I was working towards for a long time, believing it to be the end. At least it wasn’t too far off!

The vistas throughout the ascent are so elegant that eventually I stopped minding how hard my lungs and legs were working and simply surrendered to the process. I would not conquer the mountains, only witness them. I would not fly through them effortlessly, but take many breaks. Perhaps this is the stage that set a much-needed tone of reverence for the rest of my Tour du Mont Blanc.

Reaching the Col is a moment for the scrapbooks because you are officially crossing from France into Italy. It really struck me how immediately the language changes; it wasn’t five seconds after crossing the Col that everyone on the other side was suddenly speaking Italian instead of French. It’s also at this point that you see Mont Blanc for the first time (unless you’d done an alternate variation previously), and the view into Italy is picturesque. At Col Ferret a few days later, the view into Switzerland is not especially jaw-dropping (that day has other things to offer). At Col de la Seigne the view into Italy does give you a nice pat on the back.

I included some pictures of Refugio Elisabetta in the gallery as well. The descent from Col de la Seigne to Elisabetta wasn’t much to write home about, but the glaciers around the refugio itself were pretty special.

Day 6 Col Ferret

To begin Day 6 there is a long descent away from Refugio Bonatti leading to Refuge Elena. After Elena, the fun begins. It’s time to ascend up to Grand Col Ferret. At first the views are mainly back towards the way you came and not particularly exciting, but as you continue uphill you’ll become immersed in the rolling hills of your more immediate vicinity, which I loved. Each one forms a new layer in front of the last, like a collage. I felt enveloped by the land, less of an observer and more a part of it.

By this point I was used to the ascents, so my memory of the journey to this Col is that it wasn’t any more difficult, neither physically nor psychologically, than those of the previous days. I’m sure I was breathing hard and taking breaks, but in retrospect nothing particularly strenuous sticks out to me. It’s just a good challenging day without any hiccups, with some of the best views on the Tour du Mont Blanc. When you finally reach Col Ferret, it feels hard earned. Swaths of hikers and runners rest at the pass to gear up for the descent down the other side into Switzerland. Like at Col de la Seigne, knowing that you’re standing on the border between two countries adds an extra layer of accomplishment and novelty to the pass. Hikers greet each other with “Welcome to Switzerland!” or “Bienvenue en Suisse!”. 

Note that the ascent to this Col from Elena is all completely exposed to sunshine with no shade, and it gets very hot (at least when I was there in August). Everyone I spoke to commented on it. I suppose my hikes in the desert southwest of the United States had prepared me well because I didn’t feel particularly stressed about the heat, but it was still noticeable. It’s a good idea to start hiking early on this day to get some mileage under your belt before noon. 

Day 2 Col du Bonhomme

The stage from Les Contamines to Les Chapieux I completed both in 2019 and 2022. In 2022 it was rainy and misty all day and I couldn’t see farther than my own two feet, so I am really glad I remember what Col du Bonhomme was like when it’s clear. The gallery above is 2019 and mainly features the world class views seen directly from Col du Bonhomme. The gallery below is 2022 and features surrounding areas (I didn’t take too many photos in 2022 until the fog finally started to clear. If I had attempted to recreate the photos from 2019 it would have just been a wall of fog). In good weather, you can see out over vast expanses of mountains on both sides of the pass and take in some of the best views on the Tour du Mont Blanc. Arriving at the Col is already a feat, but then to see a whole new world awaiting you on the other side is quite the reward. Then you have new views again once you reach Col de la Croix du Bonhomme. 

Something about the little wooden hut at the Col really adds some character to this pass. It’s a keeper of memories. In 2019, when I arrived at the hut it was only me and one Frenchman who shared his hot coffee with me as we attempted to communicate in broken Franglais. It served as a perfect vantage point and a gathering place for like minds. In 2022 it was freezing at the pass, so the hut was able to serve its intended use as a refuge from the elements. I piled inside amongst other shivering hikers as we pulled jackets out of our backpacks, discussed the best route to take from there, and pondered whether the haze would lift. The hut at Col du Bonhomme is my horcrux.

Travel Fails: When Weather Obscures Famous Viewpoints

Day 10 tré-le-champ to la flégère.

I was a bit nervous about the ladder section because a large pack tends to shift your gravity, and because for 9 days prior, every time I checked the weather forecast it said we were expecting rain for this day. Thankfully it cleared up completely and was gorgeous outside, so I decided to go for it with the ladders instead of taking a variant. In practice I found the ladders to be fun and exciting, and completing them gave me a sense of triumph. 

The views throughout this entire section, especially after Tête aux Vents, rivaled everything from the rest of the trip and make Day 10 one of the best stages of the Tour du Mont Blanc. It felt like a reward for all my hard work and a welcome back to the Chamonix valley. The word “aiguilles” will pop up often during the Tour du Mont Blanc, as it’s the moniker of different mountains or sections of mountain ranges – Aiguilles Rouges, Aiguillette des Posettes, Aiguille des Glaciers. “Aiguilles” means “needles” or “spires”, which makes sense when you see the peaks this name describes. They have sharp, jutting angles that look quite forbidding. As you leave Tête aux Vents and head towards La Flégère, these climactic formations tower before you and remind you the true scale of the Alps. 

I would have liked some extra time at the end to check out more viewpoints. From La Flégère I took the cable car down into Les Praz and then the train to my hotel in Chamonix. To truly complete the circuit, I would have needed to continue hiking past La Flégère towards Le Brévent and down into Les Houches. Initially this was my plan, but it would have been an extremely long day (and another knee-grinding downhill) and I needed to clock in for a work meeting back at my hotel at 5pm. Le Brévent is supposed to be beautiful though, and there is another cable car opportunity there. Another stunning option from Tête aux Vents is to take a variant up to Lac Blanc. With enough time I would have done both. I am not too disappointed though because on my final day, I was both tired and pleased with everything I had accomplished, and adding more on would have felt like I was just ticking boxes. I’m not sure my heart would have been in it, but if I were to return to the area again, I would visit these locations as day hikes.

If you’re worried about burning out towards the end, I might recommend beginning somewhere other than Les Houches so that this final stage near La Flégère and Le Brévent is in the beginning or middle of your trip where you can fully appreciate it. I did meet many hikers who started somewhere other than the “classic” start point, including someone who began in Trient and someone who began in Courmayeur. 

The Least Rewarding Stages on the Tour du Mont Blanc

If you’re a purist like me, the idea of skipping a stage of the Tour du Mont Blanc is initially unthinkable. Perhaps it’s an American thru-hiker mentality; you must walk every single mile! No zero days! If you have a healthier mentality, you balance this ambition by reminding yourself that a backpacking trip is supposed to be fun and awe-inspiring. We are not paid athletes competing under a set of rules. If there is a section that’s widely known for not being scenic while also being treacherous or physically brutal, there is no shame in deciding to bypass it to save your energy for the other more rewarding sections to come. This is especially true if you’re already nursing an injury or feeling like you need a bit of a break; if you have to skip something, clearly you’d want to pick a less exciting section to skip, if you can. The following sections of the Tour du Mont Blanc were my least favorite and I personally feel that you wouldn’t be missing much if you needed to skip them. 

The second half of Day 4 (Refugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur)

This is a stage of extremes. While the first half of the day was one of my favorite sections of the entire Tour du Mont Blanc, everything past Maison Vieille was reported to be brutal, and, quite frankly, ugly. I read online that it was other hikers’ least favorite part of the trail because it’s nothing but steep and relentless downhill through a scarred and manmade ski lift area. People advised that it would be a good idea to “save your knees” by taking the chairlift past this section and straight down into Courmayeur. Remembering how painful my knee problems can get when I don’t have enough respect for sections like this, I decided to take the chairlift down.

I felt guilty and like I’d copped out, but over the next few days it became apparent that I’d made the right decision. One hiker bloodied her knee by taking a fall during this section. Another hiker said she must have overextended muscles or tendons in her knees because she proceeded to be plagued by knee problems for the entire rest of the trail. Knowing my own past issues with steep downhills, I have no doubt I would have experienced something similar. 

Day 8 Champex to Forclaz/Trient

My guidebook made Day 7 to Champex sound like it might be boring; it said the day was mostly through a flat meadow. In actuality it has much more variation than expected. You’ll follow along a riverbed, go through cute Swiss alpine villages, and climb up through a forested area before arriving at the peaceful lakeside village of Champex. Instead, it was the next day from Champex to Forclaz that I found to be lacking in points of interest. 

This day is mostly under the cover of forest and it is extremely humid and buggy. I did enjoy the views from Alp Bovine, but likely because of the cows, this section is filled with flies that would not leave me alone for even a moment. Views elsewhere along this stage are not particularly breathtaking. Through the trees you will have some glimpses of mountains, but they do not come close to rivaling the striking vistas found throughout the rest of the trek. I rushed very quickly through this stage to be able to make camp before some expected rain, and I don’t feel bad about it. 

I really liked camping at Hotel de la Forclaz, which has a backdrop of glaciers, although my fondness for it may be circumstantial. I’d made some friends by this point in the trek that I enjoyed camping with at the end of the day. We cheered for UTMB CCC runners as they passed through town and then ordered Swiss fondu at the hotel restaurant. One member of our roving gang of gypsies took a train and two buses (or was it two trains and a bus?) to join us here from Champex because she wasn’t feeling well enough to hike that day, and I think she got the best out of the day by doing this. She didn’t miss much by skipping the hike, but got to partake in the evening festivities. 

If you walk a bit further past Forclaz and towards Trient you can camp for a cheaper rate at Le Peuty, which supposedly has less amenities. This was my original plan and would have saved me the fondu money too, but honestly the fondu was the best part of Day 8. Camping at Le Peuty might have made the whole day a wash (though of course I might have made new friends at that campsite and had an entirely different fun experience, who knows?). If you do camp at Le Peuty you will have a bit of a jump on Day 9. From Forclaz you ramp up to the day by hiking along a flat bit and then downhill to arrive at Le Peuty. From Le Peuty the trail immediately starts going upwards towards Col du Balme. 

Day 6 Variant to La Fouly

I obviously can’t speak to every single variant opportunity, but this one seems like a popular choice. On Day 6 from Refugio Bonatti to La Fouly, I mostly did the main route for the entire day, right up until the last moment. Once you reach La Peule, you now have two options. You could take the farm road the rest of the way to La Fouly, which is straightforward, if a little boring. I hate road walking, so I opted for the “high route” variation. This variation is supposed to give you prettier scenic views of the mountains. 

I actually have an old version of the Cicerone guidebook from 2015 which describes the variant as being the new recommended “main route” while the farm road is the old route. A friend has a newer version of the book which has flip-flopped back to calling the farm road the “main route”. Now I understand why.

The variant has a couple sections that are washed out, perhaps from some kind of landslide or rock fall. It made the trail very skinny, slippery, and full of loose rocks, right next to a cliffside drop. This kind of thing makes me nervous, especially with my large pack. I had be be extra careful where I chose to put my feet, and a few times I crouched down so I could scoot and get my hands on the rocks to steady myself better. I got that feeling in my chest where my breath seizes up from fear of falling. Looking back it really wasn’t that bad, but in the middle of it I was worrying that this might be a sign of worse things to come. I knew there was supposed to be a long, sharp descent towards the end of the variant that brings you right down into La Fouly; if that part was going to be on a cliff edge too, I knew I wouldn’t like it. Thankfully that downhill was not treacherous at all, so really it’s just 3 or 4 brief points earlier on the trail that you have to get past and then it’s smooth sailing. 

The views of the mountains on the variant were indeed beautiful, but I’m not sure they were enough to make the dicey trail worth it. The campsite already has great views of these same mountains. If you’re looking for excitement you will probably enjoy this variant, but if you have any hesitancy about exposure then it’s not ideal. 

>> Note on Route Variations What I learned throughout the Tour du Mont Blanc, and heard reinforced by other hikers who took various alternative routes, is that as long as you stick to what’s described as the “main route”, you’re fine. It’s really not a technical trail at all (except for the ladder section on Day 10) and there are rarely any spots that should make you nervous about exposed edges. As soon as you choose a variant, though, all bets are off. It might be just as simple as the main route, but it might not, and guidebooks don’t do a great job of explaining the obstacles you could encounter on these sections (likely because alternate routes are not often maintained and conditions are always in flux). Another friend did a variant on Day 6 as well, but much earlier in the trail. I believe it was an alternate trail option starting from Col Ferret. The further they got into it, the less defined the trail became, until they couldn’t even spot it anymore. They became disoriented and needed to consult the map often to find their way back. That said, it does sound like some variants are worth it. Other hikers mentioned how glad they were to have taken the variant from Col de la Croix du Bonhomme to Col des Fours instead of descending down to Les Chapieux. One person said their favorite part of the entire hike was a variant on Day 1 from Les Houches to Les Contamines which avoided the boring uphill the trek starts with. Speaking of…

Day 1 Les Houches to Les Contamines

I’ve now done this section twice, god bless me. In 2019 I did it in sunshine and in 2022 I did it in pouring rain. Both times it wasn’t particularly scenic. A lot of it is under forest cover and you haven’t entered a wilderness area yet; you are crossing through villages and road walking a lot. However, it is a great ramp-up and introduction to the Tour du Mont Blanc and for that reason I think it’s important to actually hike the entire thing and not take the chairlift up to Col de Voza. It’s the first taste of what’s to come in terms of a relentless ascent up to a Col to start each day on the TMB. At least for me personally, it was important to get my ass kicked on Day 1. I needed this kind of welcome to get my head in the game. If you are really just looking to see only the best possible views on the TMB route though, or you’ve had some kind of travel issue pop up and delay your start, you could skip this entire day and not miss much. 

Another hiker said Day 1 was their favorite because they took some kind of variant that was more beautiful. This must be the route to Col de Tricot and Refuge de Miage (which is not advised in bad weather, according to my guidebook). 

The Stage I Regret Missing

Besides taking the cable car from Maison Vieille to Courmayeur, the only other time I felt like I copped out was on Day 9. From the start of my TMB, the weather forecast had always predicted that the last 3 days would be rainy. As a result I had it in my head that I would do the easier variant on Day 9 down from Col du Balme to Le Tour instead of taking the main route from Col du Balme to Aiguillette des Posettes. 

When Day 9 rolled around, it was actually perfect weather and I could have changed my plan and done the main route. Unfortunately I was feeling extra tired during the ascent to the Col that day, and I think I didn’t eat enough breakfast to fuel me. I had also read on someone else’s blog that Aiguillette des Posettes isn’t a good idea for anyone who gets scared on exposed cliff drops, and I still remembered being nervous a few days prior on the variant to La Fouly. It just wasn’t in me that day, so I proceeded via the Le Tour variation, which was nice at first but mostly rather boring. My friends who did the main route said it was spectacular and had some of the best views of the whole hike. When I asked if it was a narrow trail with sharp drops on both sides, they said not really, there was plenty of space and they didn’t feel nervous. Figures. 

On the one hand I really wish I had gone the normal route that day, but on the other hand I do think it’s important to listen to your body. If I had pushed it and worn myself out on Day 9, perhaps I would have been too rundown to enjoy Day 10. Maybe I would have skipped the ladders or made some other regrettable choice. 

From my conversations with other hikers, the Aiguillette des Posettes section of Day 9 should probably be listed under Best Stages of the Tour du Mont Blanc.

Tips for Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc

There are a thousand resources online for how to plan your Tour du Mont Blanc itinerary, whether you prefer staying at refuges, hotels, or camping. My aim is not to beat a dead horse by repeating these tips, but to offer a few items that occurred to me on the trail that I hadn’t previously read anywhere.

👕 Bring your own laundry clips. Some of the refuges and campsites had lines up to hang wet clothes, but limited clips.

🚿 When you stay at a refuge, you are given a coin that you must insert into a machine to start the hot water for your shower. It gives you four minutes of hot water, after which time the water either goes freezing or just turns off. Take this very seriously and strategize your shower, lol. Multiple people were taken by surprise at how short 4 minutes really is, or the fact that instead of gradually fading out as a sort of warning, it just suddenly goes freezing. Don’t get stuck mid-shower still covered in soap.

🗺️ The GAIA map I downloaded for offline use is mostly wrong. It’s got the general direction correct, but includes a lot more road walking than is necessary. It didn’t really matter because the real TMB path was always on the topographical map for reference, it just wasn’t being featured as the highlighted route. The signs were also pretty easy to follow (although a few parts are unclear; I wouldn’t say the TMB is the most well-signposted trail I’ve ever done, but it was very adequate). If this makes you nervous, maybe download your gpx files from another source like AllTrails or better yet, The Hiking Club .

🍳 Breakfasts are not a big focus along the TMB in comparison to dinners. I remember at Refugio Elisabetta, they fed us well at night but breakfast was a few slices of toast. That’s really not enough to fuel a hiking day. Meanwhile the big dinners are enough to plague you with regurgitation when you lie down to sleep an hour later. If you go Half Board at refuges, you might want to supplement with your own food for breakfast. That said, Refugio Bonatti did do a larger continental style buffet breakfast, and that’s also where I had the best dinner during my Tour du Mont Blanc.

🥧 Get the apricot and almond tarte at Refuge du Col de Balme. 🥖 I stressed about not being able to find food between certain stages, particularly because I’d read that Champex was the last place to stock up. This really isn’t a concern. There were shops or cafes at every single stage. It would only be a concern if: 1) you have plans to camp every night, even the nights when most people are at refuges, because in order to do so, you are forced to go further afield from the main trail to find places where you’re allowed to pitch; 2) you are hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc off-season when shops are closed; 3) you are hiking very early in the day before some shops open (I couldn’t order food at Alp Bovine because I hiked past it at 9am); 4) you have something against ordering hot meals and only want to buy groceries. Which leads me to the next point. 💸 Being a stickler about money is sort of futile on the Tour du Mont Blanc. I thought I would only buy groceries and dehydrated camp meals to save money, but these things were not less expensive than just getting a nice meal, and they add extra logistical headaches. I thought I would only use the cheapest possible campsites, but paying an extra measly CHF 10 for a campsite that has power outlets and food sounds like a no brainer after a long few days. 🚌 You are never far from transportation. This is both a bummer and a relief. When hiking I like to feel like I am really out there in the wilderness, and the Tour du Mont Blanc does not fit that bill. However, it provides peace of mind to know that you always have options. At one point I was worried about not being able to find an ATM as I started to run out of physical Euros. I was camping at Auberge La Boerne and there is no ATM in Tré-le-Champ, but it turns out there is one in nearby Argentière. Argentière is farther than you want to walk, but you can hop on the train at the Montroc stop and ride one stop over to Argentière for all kinds of amenities. Some friends I’d made on the trail even rode all the way back to Chamonix to watch the first UTMB marathon runners finish, then hopped back on the train and returned to La Boerne. It sort of takes away some of the symbolism of waiting until the last day to make it back to Chamonix, but c’est la vie. If we wanted a true thru-hike we’d be on the Appalachian Trail. Hike your own hike.

🔌 You will have opportunities to shower and charge your phone at every stage. This really surprised me and strikes me as a little ridiculous; who showers every day on a camping trip? All the campsites I used had nice shower facilities too, they weren’t nasty. Hot water is not always guaranteed, but surprisingly, the hot water situation is generally better at campsites than at refuges. Note that I said, “all the campsites I used “; I can’t speak to the ones I didn’t stay at. I hear Le Peuty campsite in Trient doesn’t have many outlets or amenities.

🏃 Check race schedules! I’m clueless enough to have not known the UTMB ultra marathon race was happening during my hike. I hiked from August 18-28th. The main UTMB event started on August 26th, but other events like the CCC started earlier in the week. When I learned about it I was worried I’d become extremely annoyed at sharing the trail with the runners, but it ended up being fun. You may not feel the same way, though.

🏠 Even if you think a refuge is sold out, go ahead and walk in as you pass by and ask if they happen to have any last minute openings. I know a few people who planned to stay at Elena or camp because Bonatti was supposedly full, but managed to get into Bonatti at the last second without advance reservations.

*Don’t feel comfortable solo hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc, or prefer someone to take care of the logistics for you? Wildland Trekking offers a guided hike of the TMB.

Recommended Gear

If you’ve hiked the Tour du Mont Blanc, how does your experience compare to mine? What do you think are the best stages of the Tour du Mont Blanc? I’d love to hear what your favorite sections were, and even commiserate with you about your least favorite. If you got to tackle it again, what variations would you make next time?

🏨 Search budget hostels near Chamonix or standard hotel options near Chamonix . ✈️ Coming to France from further afield? Use an  Airalo eSIM  for affordable international cell data and don’t forget to protect your investment with  travel insurance .

Cost Comparison: Tour du Mont Blanc Camping vs. Hotels

Guide to camping the malerweg painters’ way in germany, free download | the kerry way: self-guided, recap: solo trekking five trails across europe, how to plan a self-guided hiking trip, self-guided: backpack slovenia via the alpe-adria trail, how my american hiking gear handled solo trekking europe, 5 easy day trips from paris without a car, visiting castles in the loire valley without a car.

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11 Comments

thank you for such great information. I am a regular visitor to northern Italy and will be planning to hike some of the TMB from Chamonix, and Courmayeur next year. I will continue to read and just love how you covered the sections that were not that interesting.

Thanks for reading Debra, I’m jealous of your upcoming trip! Awesome, this trail is really conducive to basing in one or two villages and doing day hikes or overnights out from there. Good public transit options near some of the stages. I hope my post will help you pick and choose which to prioritize!

Great info! I am hatching a plan with 5 friends to go early next Sept, booking flights/lodging now. We are doing self guided, but looking for someone to do luggage transfers for us, trail running/lightest packs possible :). Do you recommend a specific company? Thanks-Barbara

Nice blog, thanks. I did this a few years ago. Did you do the Fenetre d’Arpette? Perhaps your blog should mention this variant for readers who are planning. It was tough but one of the most memorable aspects of my TMB. Happy Travels.

I didn’t, this post is more about the classic route. I’d love to go back and try all the different variants, I hear Fenetre d’Arpette is a real jaw-dropper!

What a fabulous blog! So happy I found you! Could you clarify some advice for hiking the TMB in early to mid June? 1. We want to avoid any stages that have snow/ice, needing crampons for shoes/dangerous drops etc. I can’t seem to find a definitive list about which stages those are. 2. Also, will the public transport options be running at that time? I have seen conflicting info about that. Which stages will/won’t have public transport available at that time? 3. Lastly, if we want to camp, do we need reservations at campgrounds and where do we find a listing for campgrounds at each stage? Thank you again!

Thanks for reading! If snow or ice is lingering anywhere, it would be at the Cols, or high mountain passes each day. I suppose which Cols can vary quite a bit based on what kind of winter they had, and the weather patterns are even different from one mountain to the next despite their proximity. The only place I consistently saw snow even late into the summer was at Col du Bonhomme, although never widespread enough that I had to step in it. But I’ve never hiked it as early as June and I think the microspikes are a good idea. I would recommend checking the regular updates at thehiking.club, every year they post trail conditions in the early season to let people know how snowy it’s looking and which areas are passable.

Some of the campgrounds don’t allow advanced reservations (Camping Les Rocailles, Le Peuty, the field at Chapieux, Les Arolles), so you just show up and pay when you get there. I was a little nervous about the first-come first-served aspect of this, but in my experience they were never crowded enough to worry about missing out so it was fine. A couple of them do allow reservations, so I took advantage of that just to be on the safe side, but it probably wasn’t necessary.

I referenced these posts for campground info: https://tmbtent.com/guide-camping-tour-mont-blanc/ https://slingadventures.com/destinations/france/camping-the-tour-du-mont-blanc-tmb https://www.nomadswithapurpose.com/tour-du-mont-blanc-camping/ https://www.finnsaway.com/hiking-and-camping-tour-du-mont-blanc/

And this is a good one for public transport: https://tourdumontblanchike.com/tour-du-mont-blanc-public-transport/

This is a wonderful blog! I love the details, sincerity and advice. Thank you.

My adult daughter and I are looking to do this summer of 2024, self-guided. I’m thinking Tre-le-Champ anti-clockwise to La Fouly is the best of the best. Do you agree? But how to get back to Chamonix from there?!

Thanks so much Mei-Mei! You guys are in for a treat, it’s a gorgeous route and a great choice for self-guided hikers. Starting in Tre-le-Champ sounds like a good way to enjoy multiple detours like Lac Blanc while you’re still fresh! If you go anti-clockwise straight from Tre-le-Champ to Tête aux Vents you’ll miss out on Aiguillette des Posettes, you might think about briefly backtracking clockwise from Tre-le-Champ first to see Posettes. That’s the one I skipped and wished I hadn’t. That said, the view from Tête aux Vents may be very similar to the view from Posettes since they are so close to each other, I’m not sure.

I agree that if you end in La Fouly you won’t miss too much by not seeing Champex or Trient. Transportation to/from La Fouly does look sparse though. Apparently there is a bus from La Fouly to Orsières, and then from Orsières you can go a few different ways. It may be more expedient to hire a shuttle service.

As always, this is so thorough and helpful! Thank you for sharing your tips. I’m with you on splurging for the “nicer” campsites and prepared meals. Well worth it from time to time after a long day. Congrats on finishing this after having to cut your trip short pre-Covid!

Thanks Susan! It had been nagging at me since 2019 lol. Yeah when you compare the difference between a basic campsite and a nice campsite ($10 or less) vs the difference between a campsite and a hotel ($60 or more), it’s silly to feel bad about such a small upgrade

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Trekking The Tour Of Mont Blanc : Komplett Zwei-Wege Wandern Reiseführer & Ign

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Trekking The Tour Of Mont Blanc : Komplett Zwei-Wege Wandern Ratgeber Und Ign Das Datenblatt dieses Produkts wurde ursprünglich auf Englisch verfasst. Unten finden Sie eine automatische Übersetzung ins Deutsche. Sollten Sie irgendwelche Fragen haben, kontaktieren Sie uns. Der eBay-Shop Monster Bookshop Produktdetails Titel: Trekking auf der Mont-Blanc-Tour: Kompletter Zwei-Wege-Wanderführer und IGN-Kartenheft (Cicerone Trekking Guides) Autor(en): Kev Reynolds Herausgeber: Cicerone Press Veröffentlichungsdatum: 15.06.2020 Bindung: Taschenbuch EAN: 9781786310620 .... Zustand: neu Bitte beachten Sie, dass das Bild nur zur Veranschaulichung dient und das tatsächliche Buchcover und die tatsächliche Auflage variieren können. Über uns Der Monster Bookshop ist ein 2008 gegründeter Online-Buchladen, der sich zum Ziel gesetzt hat, bei gebrauchten und new books große Ersparnisse anzubieten. Mit über 2 Millionen zufriedenen Kunden bieten wir derzeit ein fantastisches Sortiment von 500.000 Büchern, von seltenen antiquarischen Büchern aus dem 19. Jahrhundert über Ihre Kindheitslieblinge bis hin zu den neuesten Bestsellern! Alle unsere gebrauchten Bücher werden auf Qualitätssicherung überprüft, was uns stets einen fantastischen Verkäuferstatus eingebracht hat. Wenn Sie aus irgendeinem Grund mit dem Artikel, den Sie erhalten, unzufrieden sind, steht Ihnen unser hervorragender Kundendienst zur Verfügung, um eine schnelle Reaktion zu gewährleisten und das Problem schnell zu lösen Zahlungen Derzeit akzeptieren wir für alle eBay-Bestellungen nur die Sofortzahlung per PayPal. Die Zahlung muss eingegangen sein, bevor die Artikel versendet werden können. Lieferung Alle Bestellungen werden innerhalb eines Werktages nach Ihrer Bestellung in einer sicheren und schützenden, zu 100 % recycelbaren Verpackung versandt. KOSTENLOSE Lieferungen im Vereinigten Königreich werden voraussichtlich innerhalb von 2–4 Werktagen eintreffen. Expresslieferungen werden per Kurierdienst zugestellt. Voraussichtlich innerhalb von 1-2 Werktagen eintreffen. Alle internationalen Bestellungen werden per Priorty Airmail mit der Deutschen Post versandt. Lieferungen in Westeuropa werden voraussichtlich innerhalb von 5–8 Werktagen eintreffen. Alle anderen internationalen Lieferungen werden voraussichtlich innerhalb von 7 bis 15 Werktagen eintreffen. Rückgaben Ihre Zufriedenheit ist uns sehr wichtig. Wenn Sie Probleme mit Ihrer Bestellung haben, kontaktieren Sie uns bitte zuerst, bevor Sie eine Bewertung abgeben. Unser hervorragender Kundenservice hilft Ihnen dann bei der Lösung des Problems. Wir bieten eine 30-tägige Geld-zurück-Garantie. © 2024 The Monster Bookshop Ltd Der Monster Bookshop ist ein 2008 gegründeter Online-Buchladen, der sich zum Ziel gesetzt hat, bei gebrauchten und new books große Ersparnisse anzubieten. Mit über 2 Millionen zufriedenen Kunden bieten wir derzeit ein fantastisches Sortiment von 500.000 Büchern, von seltenen antiquarischen Büchern aus dem 19. Jahrhundert über Ihre Kindheitslieblinge bis hin zu den neuesten Bestsellern! Wenn Sie aus irgendeinem Grund mit dem Artikel, den Sie erhalten, unzufrieden sind, steht Ihnen unser hervorragender Kundendienst zur Verfügung, um eine schnelle Reaktion zu gewährleisten und das Problem schnell zu lösen Ihre Zufriedenheit ist uns sehr wichtig. Wenn Sie Probleme mit Ihrer Bestellung haben, kontaktieren Sie uns bitte zuerst, bevor Sie eine Bewertung abgeben. Unser hervorragender Kundenservice Book Title Trekking the Tour of Mont Blanc: Complete two-way hiking guideboo ISBN 1786310627 Language English Author Kev Reynolds Condition: Neuf Buchtitel: Trekking the Tour von Mont Blanc: komplettes 2-Wege wandern ISBN: 1786310627 Sprache: Englisch Autor: Kev Reynolds See More PicClick Insights PicClick Exclusive

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Kev Reynolds is a freelance writer, photojournalist and lecturer. A prolific compiler of guidebooks,

his first title for Cicerone Press appeared in 1978; he has since produced 27 titles for Cicerone,

with others being researched. A member of the Outdoor Writers' Guild, the Alpine Club and

Austrian Alpine Club, his passion for mountains and the countryside remains undiminished, and he

regularly travels throughout Britain to share that enthusiasm through his lectures. Read more Kev

Reynolds is a freelance writer, photojournalist and lecturer. A prolific compiler of guidebooks, his

first title for Cicerone Press appeared in 1978; he has since produced 27 titles for Cicerone, with

others being researched. A member of the Outdoor Writers' Guild, the Alpine Club and Austrian

Alpine Club, his passion for mountains and the countryside remains undiminished, and he

regularly travels throughout Britain to share that enthusiasm through his lectures. Read more

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[epub] READ] The Tour of Mont Blanc: Complete two-way trekking guide (Cicerone Trekking Guides) by Kev Reynolds on Iphone New Pages

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