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Free NC CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Practice Exam

• Perfect for first-time and renewal CDL/CLP applicants, and those adding endorsements
• Based on 2024 NC commercial driver's license manual
• Triple-checked for accuracy
• Updated for June 2024

About this test

This CDL practice test is a great place to start if you’re after the NC Pre-Trip Inspection endorsement. Each of the 20 questions is based on the official 2024 CDL manual . The test is designed to prepare you for the Pre-Trip Inspection portion of your 2024 Commercial Driver’s License exam. There are several answer options, but only one of them is correct. Every time you answer a question, you’ll get immediate feedback with a detailed explanation, so you won’t need to wait until the end of the test to know the correct answers.

Thoroughly prepare for your CDL Pre-Trip Inspection with our detailed guide, offering step-by-step procedures and essential tips at our Pre-Trip Inspection section .

What to expect on the actual NC CDL exam

correct answers to pass

passing score

Helpful links

NC DMV website

Official North Carolina CDL manual (2024)

More NC CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Resources

• NC CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Test
• NC CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Test 2
• NC CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Test 3
• NC CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Test 4
• NC CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Marathon
• NC CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Exam Simulator

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CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Checklist

Studying this Class-A CDL pre-trip inspection checklist is an important part of truck driver training. Before getting your Class-A CDL and finding an entry level truck driving job , most states will require students to pass a DOT (department of transportation) pre-trip inspection test and a general knowledge test .

Each company’s pre-trip inspection varies slightly. Most likely you will have to do the coupling system, light check and in-cab inspections plus one of the remaining three sections.

Pre Trip Inspection Checklist

Download free and print it! Printable Pre Trip Inspection Checklist (PDF)

There are many sections to learn but the test is not as difficult as it may seem. Studying our simplified Class-A pre-trip inspection checklist and taking classes at your local CDL training school will get you prepared.

Engine Compartment

Driver door fuel area, coupling area, light check, in-cab inspection and brake tests, belt driven alternator, belt driven water pump, brake chamber, brake lining, caste nuts and cotter pins, coolant reservoir, gear box and hoses, gear driven air compressor, gear driven power steering pump.

• General Hoses

Leaf Springs

Power steering fluid reservoir, shock absorber, slack adjuster and push rod, spring hanger, steering column, what to check for:.

When checking the engine compartment, you will always want to make sure the following components are properly mounted and secured. You should also make sure they are not cracked, bent or broken. The items you will need to check for include:

• Make sure all of the wires are connected. The belt should not be cracked or frayed and the free play on the belt should be between ½ to ¾ of an inch.
• The free play on the belt should be between ½ to ¾ of an inch. Also check all the hoses running to and from the water pump to make sure nothing is leaking.
• The brake chamber should not be leaking air.
• The brake drum should be properly mounted and secure.
• The brake hose is rubber, so it is important to make sure it is not leaking air.
• Check for oil or debris on the lining. There should be at least ¼ of an inch of friction material.
• Make sure all three caste nuts and cotter pins are present.
• The reservoir should not leaking and must be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
• Make sure the drag link is properly mounted and secure, and not cracked, bent or broken.
• The gear box and hoses should have no abrasions, bulges or cuts, and should not be leaking.
• Although the air compressor is hard to see, you must make sure it is properly mounted and does not leak.
• The steering pump is located in the same place as the air compressor and is also gear driven. Ensure the steering pump is not leaking.

General Hoses (Passenger and Driver’s Side)

• The hoses should be secure at both ends. There should be no abrasions, bulges or cuts. Fluids run through these hoses, so it is important to make sure they are not leaking.
• The hub seal (or axle seal) should not be leaking and should be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
• Make sure none of the leaf springs have shifted.
• Check for leaks under the truck.
• There should be no lug nuts missing. Look for rust trails, powder residue and cracks around the bolt holes.
• The oil level should be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
• Make sure the pitman arm is properly mounted and secure. It should be not cracked, bent or broken.
• Make sure this reservoir is not leaking and filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
• The rim cannot have any unauthorized welds.
• Make sure the shock absorber is not leaking. If it is leaking, the leak will be at the point where the top and bottom portion of the shock meet.
• With the brakes released and pulled by hand, the push rod should never move more than one inch.
• The spring hanger should be properly mounted and secure.
• Make sure the steering column is properly mounted and secure. It should not be cracked, bent or broken.
• Look for abrasions, bulges or cuts on the tread or sidewalls. Tread depth should have a depth no less than 4/32 of an inch. Tires must be properly filled to the manufacturer’s specifications. This can be checked with an air gauge.
• Make sure the tie rod is properly mounted and secure, not cracked, bent or broken.
• Make sure all are accounted for.

Back to top of Engine Compartment

Catwalk and Steps

Door and hinges, drive shaft, exhaust system, frame and cross members, spring mount.

Again it is important to make sure these items are properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends, and breaks.

• The actual airbag is rubber, so it is important to check for abrasions, bulges, cuts and leaks, in addition to any missing mounting bolts.
• The axle seal should not be leaking and should be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
• Make sure to mention the brake chamber is not leaking air.
• Make sure the brake drum is secured properly. Also look for cracks, bends and breaks.
• Check the brake hose at both ends to make sure it is not leaking air.
• There should be no oil or debris on the brake lining. There should be at least ¼ of an inch of friction material.
• The cat walk and steps should be clear of any loose objects.
• Physically demonstrate that the doors open, close and latch properly. Door seals should not be worn, torn or rotten.
• The drive shaft should not be twisted and the u-joints should be free of any debris.
• The tread and sidewalls should have no abrasions, bulges or cuts. The tread depth should be no less than 2/32 of an inch. Tires should be properly filled to the manufacturer’s specifications. This can be checked with an air gauge.
• The exhaust system should show no signs of leaks.
• There should be no unauthorized holes or welds. Bundle up the cross members to ensure none are missing.
• Fuel should not be leaking from the tank and the cap should always be on tight.
• Rust trails could indicate loose bolts, while powder residue and racks around the bolts could mean the bolts have been over-tightened.
• Mirrors should be clean for best visibility.
• Make sure the mud flap is secured properly. Also look for cracks, bends and breaks.
• Make sure to mention there should be never be any unauthorized welds.
• The shock absorber should be secure at both ends and not leaking. If it does leak, it will leak in the middle.
• With the brakes released and pulled by hand, the push rod should not move more than one inch.
• If you are equipped with duals, check to see there is proper spacing between the tires and there is nothing stuck.
• The spring arm should be secure at both ends.
• The spring mount should be secure at both ends.
• Make sure the torque arm is secured properly. Also look for cracks, bends and breaks.
• Make sure to check and mention that no U-bolts are missing.

Back to  top of Driver Door Fuel Area

Electric Line

Locking jaws, mounting bolts, release arm, sliding fifth wheel locking pin.

• Air lines should be secure at both ends with no abrasions, bulges or cuts. They should not be leaking, dragging or tangled.
• Make sure the apron is properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends and breaks.
• Make sure there is enough space between the tractor mudflap and the trailer landing gear so that they don’t hit each other when making a turn.
• The electric line should be secure at both ends. There should be no abrasions, bulges, cuts or exposed wires.
• The gap is not an actual item, however there should be no space between the apron and the skid plate.
• The seals should be in good condition with no cracks, signs of rotting, or leaking air.
• Make sure the king pin is properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends and breaks.
• You must physically check that the locking jaws is fully locked around the king pin.
• No mounting bolts should be missing.
• Make sure the platform is properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends and breaks.
• The release arm should be in the fully locked position.
• The skid plate needs to be properly lubed.
• The pin must be in the fully locked position.

Back to top of Coupling Area

Header Board

Landing gear, rear door and hinges.

• Shock Absorbers

Tandem Frame and Release

Trailer tire.

• Again make sure the airbag has no abrasions, bulges, cuts or leakings. The airbag should not be missing any mounting bolts.
• The brake chamber should be properly mounted so that is does not leak air.
• The brake hose should be secure at both ends with no abrasions, bulges, cuts or leaks.
• Check for oil or debris on the brake lining. There should be at least ¼ of an inch of friction material.
• There cannot be any missing cross members.
• The header board cannot have any holes or missing rivets.
• The landing gear must be fully raised and the cradle handle secure.
• Rust trails indicate loose bolts. Powder residue and cracks around the bolt holes could be an indication of over-tightened bolts.
• The rims cannot have any unauthorized welds.
• The rear door should open, close and latch properly. Door seals should not be worn, torn or dry rotten.
• The shock absorber should be checked at both ends for leaks.
• When the brakes are released and pulled by hand, the push rod should not move more than one inch.
• Release handle and locking pins should be in the fully locked position.

There should be no abrasions, bulges or cuts to the tread or sidewalls. Tread depth should be no less than 2/32 of an inch. The tire should be properly filled to manufacturer’s specifications and checked with an air gauge.

• Front of the truck
• Both sides of the truck
• Rear of the truck
• Both sides of the trailer
• Rear of the trailer

Back to top of Trailer

The five functions are:

• Left turn signal
• Right turn signal
• Four way flashers
• High/low beams
• Brake lights

Back to top of Light Check

• Airbrake Test

Air Pressure Gauges

Emergency equipment, heater and defroster, lighting indicators, oil pressure gauge, parking brake, service brake check, water temperature gauge, windshield and mirrors, windshield wipers and washers.

The last section is In-Cab Inspection and Brake Tests. For the In-Cab Inspection you will once again want to make sure all of the following components are properly mounted and secure. As well as the following:

Air Brake Test

There are three stages to an air brake test:

• Applied Pressure Test – When doing the Applied Pressure Test, you will want to build the air pressure to governor cut out. Put the truck in the lowest gear, turn the engine off and immediately turn it back on. Push in the tractor and trailer valves which will then release the parking brakes. Push and hold the brake pedal, allowing the gauges to stabilize. When the gauges have stabilized, announce the Primary and Secondary PSI. Listen for air leaks while doing this.
• Warning Light and Buzzer – Pump down on the brake pedal until the warning light and buzzer comes on. This is typically at or before 60 PSI.
• Tractor/Trailer Protection Valve Pop Out – Pump down on the brake pedal until the tractor and trailer protection valves pop out, this will be between 20 and 40 PSI.
• The air pressure gauges should build to governor cut out.
• Your truck should have a fire extinguisher, three red reflective triangles and spare electrical fuses.
• Demonstrate both the heater and defroster are working properly.

Horns (Air Horn and City Horn)

• Blow both horns to make sure they are working.
• Check the left turn, right turn, four way flashers and high beams; also point these out on the dashboard.
• Make sure transmission is in neutral and then fully depress the clutch. Turn the key on, check the ABS light, announce when it comes on and off, and start the engine.
• The seat belt should not be ripped or frayed and should adjust and latch properly.
• The engine oil pressure gauge should rise to normal operating range.
• Trailer Parking Brakes – Set the trailer brake, release the tractor brake, then tug lightly on the trailer.
• Tractor Parking Brakes – Set the tractor brake, release the trailer brake and tug lightly on the trailer.
• Release both the tractor and trailer brakes. Drive at idle speed. Apply the service brake to make sure you come to a complete stop and that it doesn’t pull to the left or right when applying the brakes.
• The voltmeter should be charging between 13 and 14 volts.
• The water temperature gauge should also rise to normal operating range.
• The windshield and mirrors must be clean, with no obstructions and in proper adjustment.
• Demonstrate the wipers and washers are working properly by spraying the windshield.

Back to top of In-Cab Inspection and Brake Tests

During a CDL pre-trip inspection, truckers inspect many aspects of their commercial vehicle, including the overall safety of the vehicle; major hoses, fluid levels, and vehicle belts; the clutch or gear shift; and emergency equipment. The driver demonstrates their knowledge by walking around the vehicle, checking various safety components and explaining why each part should be checked for safety.

Reference and practice tests:

• Printable Pre Trip Inspection Checklist (PDF)
• CDL General Knowledge Practice Test
• Pre Trip Inspection Practice Test
• CDL HAZMAT Endorsement Practice Test

Edited for 2024 on  12/5/23

Bus Inspector Certification

Important Certification Program Information

North Carolina School Bus Inspector Certification Program - June 2016

Training Materials

• 4-Hour Class Powerpoint
• Train-the-Trainer Powerpoint
• NEW 30 Day Inspection Video (windows media player, Alt-Enter for full screen)

30 Day Inspection Classes:

Required Forms: Certification of 20 hours In-Service Training for NC School Bus Inspector

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