nc bus pre trip inspection

CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Checklist

Studying this Class-A CDL pre-trip inspection checklist is an important part of truck driver training. Before getting your Class-A CDL and finding an entry level truck driving job , most states will require students to pass a DOT (department of transportation) pre-trip inspection test and a general knowledge test .

Each company’s pre-trip inspection varies slightly. Most likely you will have to do the coupling system, light check and in-cab inspections plus one of the remaining three sections.

Pre Trip Inspection Checklist

Download free and print it! Printable Pre Trip Inspection Checklist (PDF)

There are many sections to learn but the test is not as difficult as it may seem. Studying our simplified Class-A pre-trip inspection checklist and taking classes at your local CDL training school will get you prepared.

Engine Compartment

Driver door fuel area, coupling area, light check, in-cab inspection and brake tests, belt driven alternator, belt driven water pump, brake chamber, brake lining, caste nuts and cotter pins, coolant reservoir, gear box and hoses, gear driven air compressor, gear driven power steering pump.

• General Hoses

Leaf Springs

Power steering fluid reservoir, shock absorber, slack adjuster and push rod, spring hanger, steering column, what to check for:.

When checking the engine compartment, you will always want to make sure the following components are properly mounted and secured. You should also make sure they are not cracked, bent or broken. The items you will need to check for include:

• Make sure all of the wires are connected. The belt should not be cracked or frayed and the free play on the belt should be between ½ to ¾ of an inch.
• The free play on the belt should be between ½ to ¾ of an inch. Also check all the hoses running to and from the water pump to make sure nothing is leaking.
• The brake chamber should not be leaking air.
• The brake drum should be properly mounted and secure.
• The brake hose is rubber, so it is important to make sure it is not leaking air.
• Check for oil or debris on the lining. There should be at least ¼ of an inch of friction material.
• Make sure all three caste nuts and cotter pins are present.
• The reservoir should not leaking and must be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
• Make sure the drag link is properly mounted and secure, and not cracked, bent or broken.
• The gear box and hoses should have no abrasions, bulges or cuts, and should not be leaking.
• Although the air compressor is hard to see, you must make sure it is properly mounted and does not leak.
• The steering pump is located in the same place as the air compressor and is also gear driven. Ensure the steering pump is not leaking.

General Hoses (Passenger and Driver’s Side)

• The hoses should be secure at both ends. There should be no abrasions, bulges or cuts. Fluids run through these hoses, so it is important to make sure they are not leaking.
• The hub seal (or axle seal) should not be leaking and should be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
• Make sure none of the leaf springs have shifted.
• Check for leaks under the truck.
• There should be no lug nuts missing. Look for rust trails, powder residue and cracks around the bolt holes.
• The oil level should be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
• Make sure the pitman arm is properly mounted and secure. It should be not cracked, bent or broken.
• Make sure this reservoir is not leaking and filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
• The rim cannot have any unauthorized welds.
• Make sure the shock absorber is not leaking. If it is leaking, the leak will be at the point where the top and bottom portion of the shock meet.
• With the brakes released and pulled by hand, the push rod should never move more than one inch.
• The spring hanger should be properly mounted and secure.
• Make sure the steering column is properly mounted and secure. It should not be cracked, bent or broken.
• Look for abrasions, bulges or cuts on the tread or sidewalls. Tread depth should have a depth no less than 4/32 of an inch. Tires must be properly filled to the manufacturer’s specifications. This can be checked with an air gauge.
• Make sure the tie rod is properly mounted and secure, not cracked, bent or broken.
• Make sure all are accounted for.

Back to top of Engine Compartment

Catwalk and Steps

Door and hinges, drive shaft, exhaust system, frame and cross members, spring mount.

Again it is important to make sure these items are properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends, and breaks.

• The actual airbag is rubber, so it is important to check for abrasions, bulges, cuts and leaks, in addition to any missing mounting bolts.
• The axle seal should not be leaking and should be filled to the manufacturer’s specifications.
• Make sure to mention the brake chamber is not leaking air.
• Make sure the brake drum is secured properly. Also look for cracks, bends and breaks.
• Check the brake hose at both ends to make sure it is not leaking air.
• There should be no oil or debris on the brake lining. There should be at least ¼ of an inch of friction material.
• The cat walk and steps should be clear of any loose objects.
• Physically demonstrate that the doors open, close and latch properly. Door seals should not be worn, torn or rotten.
• The drive shaft should not be twisted and the u-joints should be free of any debris.
• The tread and sidewalls should have no abrasions, bulges or cuts. The tread depth should be no less than 2/32 of an inch. Tires should be properly filled to the manufacturer’s specifications. This can be checked with an air gauge.
• The exhaust system should show no signs of leaks.
• There should be no unauthorized holes or welds. Bundle up the cross members to ensure none are missing.
• Fuel should not be leaking from the tank and the cap should always be on tight.
• Rust trails could indicate loose bolts, while powder residue and racks around the bolts could mean the bolts have been over-tightened.
• Mirrors should be clean for best visibility.
• Make sure the mud flap is secured properly. Also look for cracks, bends and breaks.
• Make sure to mention there should be never be any unauthorized welds.
• The shock absorber should be secure at both ends and not leaking. If it does leak, it will leak in the middle.
• With the brakes released and pulled by hand, the push rod should not move more than one inch.
• If you are equipped with duals, check to see there is proper spacing between the tires and there is nothing stuck.
• The spring arm should be secure at both ends.
• The spring mount should be secure at both ends.
• Make sure the torque arm is secured properly. Also look for cracks, bends and breaks.
• Make sure to check and mention that no U-bolts are missing.

Back to  top of Driver Door Fuel Area

Electric Line

Locking jaws, mounting bolts, release arm, sliding fifth wheel locking pin.

• Air lines should be secure at both ends with no abrasions, bulges or cuts. They should not be leaking, dragging or tangled.
• Make sure the apron is properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends and breaks.
• Make sure there is enough space between the tractor mudflap and the trailer landing gear so that they don’t hit each other when making a turn.
• The electric line should be secure at both ends. There should be no abrasions, bulges, cuts or exposed wires.
• The gap is not an actual item, however there should be no space between the apron and the skid plate.
• The seals should be in good condition with no cracks, signs of rotting, or leaking air.
• Make sure the king pin is properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends and breaks.
• You must physically check that the locking jaws is fully locked around the king pin.
• No mounting bolts should be missing.
• Make sure the platform is properly mounted and secure. Look for cracks, bends and breaks.
• The release arm should be in the fully locked position.
• The skid plate needs to be properly lubed.
• The pin must be in the fully locked position.

Back to top of Coupling Area

Header Board

Landing gear, rear door and hinges.

• Shock Absorbers

Tandem Frame and Release

Trailer tire.

• Again make sure the airbag has no abrasions, bulges, cuts or leakings. The airbag should not be missing any mounting bolts.
• The brake chamber should be properly mounted so that is does not leak air.
• The brake hose should be secure at both ends with no abrasions, bulges, cuts or leaks.
• Check for oil or debris on the brake lining. There should be at least ¼ of an inch of friction material.
• There cannot be any missing cross members.
• The header board cannot have any holes or missing rivets.
• The landing gear must be fully raised and the cradle handle secure.
• Rust trails indicate loose bolts. Powder residue and cracks around the bolt holes could be an indication of over-tightened bolts.
• The rims cannot have any unauthorized welds.
• The rear door should open, close and latch properly. Door seals should not be worn, torn or dry rotten.
• The shock absorber should be checked at both ends for leaks.
• When the brakes are released and pulled by hand, the push rod should not move more than one inch.
• Release handle and locking pins should be in the fully locked position.

There should be no abrasions, bulges or cuts to the tread or sidewalls. Tread depth should be no less than 2/32 of an inch. The tire should be properly filled to manufacturer’s specifications and checked with an air gauge.

• Front of the truck
• Both sides of the truck
• Rear of the truck
• Both sides of the trailer
• Rear of the trailer

Back to top of Trailer

The five functions are:

• Left turn signal
• Right turn signal
• Four way flashers
• High/low beams
• Brake lights

Back to top of Light Check

• Airbrake Test

Air Pressure Gauges

Emergency equipment, heater and defroster, lighting indicators, oil pressure gauge, parking brake, service brake check, water temperature gauge, windshield and mirrors, windshield wipers and washers.

The last section is In-Cab Inspection and Brake Tests. For the In-Cab Inspection you will once again want to make sure all of the following components are properly mounted and secure. As well as the following:

Air Brake Test

There are three stages to an air brake test:

• Applied Pressure Test – When doing the Applied Pressure Test, you will want to build the air pressure to governor cut out. Put the truck in the lowest gear, turn the engine off and immediately turn it back on. Push in the tractor and trailer valves which will then release the parking brakes. Push and hold the brake pedal, allowing the gauges to stabilize. When the gauges have stabilized, announce the Primary and Secondary PSI. Listen for air leaks while doing this.
• Warning Light and Buzzer – Pump down on the brake pedal until the warning light and buzzer comes on. This is typically at or before 60 PSI.
• Tractor/Trailer Protection Valve Pop Out – Pump down on the brake pedal until the tractor and trailer protection valves pop out, this will be between 20 and 40 PSI.
• The air pressure gauges should build to governor cut out.
• Your truck should have a fire extinguisher, three red reflective triangles and spare electrical fuses.
• Demonstrate both the heater and defroster are working properly.

Horns (Air Horn and City Horn)

• Blow both horns to make sure they are working.
• Check the left turn, right turn, four way flashers and high beams; also point these out on the dashboard.
• Make sure transmission is in neutral and then fully depress the clutch. Turn the key on, check the ABS light, announce when it comes on and off, and start the engine.
• The seat belt should not be ripped or frayed and should adjust and latch properly.
• The engine oil pressure gauge should rise to normal operating range.
• Trailer Parking Brakes – Set the trailer brake, release the tractor brake, then tug lightly on the trailer.
• Tractor Parking Brakes – Set the tractor brake, release the trailer brake and tug lightly on the trailer.
• Release both the tractor and trailer brakes. Drive at idle speed. Apply the service brake to make sure you come to a complete stop and that it doesn’t pull to the left or right when applying the brakes.
• The voltmeter should be charging between 13 and 14 volts.
• The water temperature gauge should also rise to normal operating range.
• The windshield and mirrors must be clean, with no obstructions and in proper adjustment.
• Demonstrate the wipers and washers are working properly by spraying the windshield.

Back to top of In-Cab Inspection and Brake Tests

During a CDL pre-trip inspection, truckers inspect many aspects of their commercial vehicle, including the overall safety of the vehicle; major hoses, fluid levels, and vehicle belts; the clutch or gear shift; and emergency equipment. The driver demonstrates their knowledge by walking around the vehicle, checking various safety components and explaining why each part should be checked for safety.

Reference and practice tests:

• Printable Pre Trip Inspection Checklist (PDF)
• CDL General Knowledge Practice Test
• Pre Trip Inspection Practice Test
• CDL HAZMAT Endorsement Practice Test

Edited for 2024 on  12/5/23

Passenger Bus CDL Class B Pre-Trip Inspection

Pre-trip inspection passenger bus class b.

The commercial driver’s license (CDL) pre-trip inspection for a passenger bus includes 71 items to be checked.

You must name and point to or touch each item, and fully explain what you are inspecting (you must ensure the tester knows what you are referring to). You are getting graded that you know what to check each part for, not that you know the names of the parts. You will have to check each axle as outlined. There is no order or sequence to the test. If you miss a part, you can go back and identify it.

At the end of this checklist (scroll to the bottom of this page), you will find procedural videos to assist you in understanding the requirements for successfully completing the Class B (Passenger bus) Pre-Trip Inspection.

Engine Compartment

This order starts in the engine compartment and inspects only the axles on the driver’s side of the bus. The test requires you to only inspect the driver side unless the item is only on the passenger side (parts in engine compartment, exhaust).

• make sure level is between add and full
• level is sufficient for operation, between hot and cold mark
• level is between add and full
• must say that it is gear powered, working properly
• not leaking, securely mounted
• securely mounted, bolts tight, not leaking
• belt, not cracked or frayed, tension is between ½” and ¾”
• securely mounted, bolts tight
• wire secure into back of alternator
• secure to engine, bolts tight, hoses secure, not leaking
• must say that it is belt driven
• works properly
• check under vehicle for oil puddles
• check bottom of motor for leaks
• check hoses for splits, cuts
• make sure all clamps are tight
• check all hoses for leaks
• make sure to check both sides of engine for leaks/hoses

Front Truck Axle

• secure, bolts tight
• not leaking
• not cut, pinched or leaking
• fittings are secure not cracked or broken
• not bent, bolts tight, no cracks, cotter pins in place
• sockets are not worn or loose
• must check from steering box to wheel
• none broken
• all in alignment
• not shifted
• not broke or rusted
• check front and rear mount for cracks, rust
• check for tight or missing bolts
• make sure bushings are not torn or missing
• bolts tight
• not kinked, cut, swollen or leaking
• fittings secure
• not bent, broke or leaking
• not cracked dented, rusted or leaking
• clamp is secure, tight and in place
• pins in place holding slack adjuster to push rod
• straight, not broken
• no more than 1”adjustment (movement) on the push rod
• no holes, cracks or dents
• smooth surface
• no signs of grease or oil
• shoes are sufficient, more than ¼” pad
• no cracks, no chipped pads
• no fluid, grease or oil
• 4/32” tread depth
• no cuts or bubbles on side walls
• check top of tire for even wear and flat spots
• check pressure with gauge
• check valve stem is not cracked, broke, leaking or twisted and secured with cap
• none missing
• no signs of rust trails
• no cracks or distortion from lug bolt holes
• no loose or missing bolts
• proper fluid level (if sight glass)

Side of Cab

• door hinges are secure, bolts tight
• handle works, no damage to side
• seal is in tack and not torn
• opens and closes properly
• securely mounded, brackets not damages, bolts in place
• mirror is not broke and clean
• straps are secure
• cap is on tight
• must check tank & cap for leaking

Under Vehicle

• no signs of soot (leaking)
• securely mounded
• all clamps are tight
• must check hole exhaust system from turbo to top of stack
• bolts are all tight
• must also check cross members for same
• straight, no cracks, bolts are tight
• must check u-joint bolts and u-joint is free of foreign objects
• no holes, cracks, chipped and flat

Rear Truck Axle

• check front and rear mount for cracks
• fitting is secure
• not cracked or rusted or leaking
• no more than 1” adjustment (movement) on the push rod with brakes released (double chamber)
• no holes, cracks, or dents
• no cracked or chipped pads
• 2/32” tread depth
• check pressure with a gauge
• check valve stem is not cracked, secure, leaking or twisted and cap is in place
• no cracks, no rust or welded
• none missing, not loose, no signs of rust trails
• must check there is no debris between tires
• tires are evenly spaced
• rims flush (butted) together

Rear of Vehicle

• opens and closes
• no damage, holes, broken glass
• hinges are secure, no missing bolts
• seal is not missing or torn

Cab Compartment/Engine Start (need to demonstrate all mechanisms)

• push in clutch & make sure shifter is in neutral before starting engine
• if automatic transmission make sure vehicle is in neutral
• check temperature gauge for operation and in safe range
• check voltmeter for operation and in safe range
• needle indication charging
• check oil pressure gauge for operation and in safe range
• working properly, pressure builds to 120 psi or governor cut out or purge
• check steering play for no more than 10 degrees or 2”
• check parking brake by applying and putting truck in low gear and try to move (lug engine)
• must check both tractor and trailer parking brake individually
• pull forward at 5 mph and stop with foot brake, check for no pull left or right
• must be clean
• no cracks, chips or stickers
• seal is secure with no leaks
• no stickers
• mirrors are adjusted
• operate properly (must turn on)
• rubber blades are not cracked with good contact to windshield
• medal arms are secure, no damage
• washer fluid operates (squirts)
• on dash, check left & right turn arrow
• 4 way flashers
• high/low beam indicator
• blow air and electric horn
• must turn to hot and feel for air from vents
• turn on defroster to make sure they work properly
• feel for air to blow from vent at windshield
• spare fuses or breakers (which ever truck is equipped with)
• not cut, frayed or torn
• securely mounded at seat, shoulder and floor ( all points )
• build air pressure to 120, governor cut out or purge
• turn off engine then turn key to on position
• release parking brake, push in
• apply foot brake & keep pressure and listen , applied for 1 minute-cannot lose more than 3 pounds in 1 minute (must hold for full, timed minute)
• after leak test, say that low air buzzer will come on at 60 PSI, pump foot brake (fan) so buzzer will sound
• after checking the low air warning device, say that parking brake will pop out at approximately 30 PSI, pump foot brake (fan) so buttons pop

Passenger Items

• securely mounted
• walk through bus and check
• buzzer sounds when open (key on)

Lights—Amber on Front, Red on Rear (all lights, must say color and describe light condition)

• Lights (front of vehicle AMBER )-head lights (high & low beam), right/left turn signal, 4 way flashers, clearance, must turn on, clean, not broken, operating properly
• Lights (front side of vehicle AMBER )-right/left turn signal, put on emergency, flashers, make sure working, amber lenses, not broken, clean
• Lights (rear of vehicle RED )-right/left turn signal, put on 4 way flashers, clearance and brake lights, red lenses, not broken, clean

CDL Class B Passenger Bus Pre-Trip Inspection Video

A procedural training video demonstrating the requirements and best practices to help prepare you for successfully completing the Pre-Trip Inspection portion of the CDL Class B (Passenger Bus).

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Free NC CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Practice Exam

• Perfect for first-time and renewal CDL/CLP applicants, and those adding endorsements
• Based on 2024 NC commercial driver's license manual
• Triple-checked for accuracy
• Updated for July 2024

What you need to know

This CDL practice test is a great place to start if you’re after the NC Pre-Trip Inspection endorsement. Each of the 20 questions is based on the official 2024 CDL manual . The test is designed to prepare you for the Pre-Trip Inspection portion of your 2024 Commercial Driver’s License exam. There are several answer options, but only one of them is correct. Every time you answer a question, you’ll get immediate feedback with a detailed explanation, so you won’t need to wait until the end of the test to know the correct answers.

Thoroughly prepare for your CDL Pre-Trip Inspection with our detailed guide, offering step-by-step procedures and essential tips at our Pre-Trip Inspection section .

What to expect on the actual exam

correct answers to pass

passing score

Helpful links

NC DMV website

Official North Carolina CDL manual (2024)

More resources

• NC CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Test
• NC CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Exam Simulator
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FREE North Carolina CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Practice Test 2024 | NC

Ready to attempt the pre-trip inspection endorsement test? Before spending time and money to take the test at the DMV, take our free North Carolina CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Practice Test to ensure you are ready. On our practice test you will find 30 questions covering both inside and outside inspections. If you get 24 or more of the questions right you are ready to take the real test and earn your endorsement, which could help you qualify for higher paying jobs.

The questions on this practice test are multiple choice and come with answer explanations. We suggest you read each explanation to further increase your understanding of important topics. Here are a couple of sample questions that you may find on the practice test: If you have inspected the engine compartment, vehicle front, vehicle side, tractor/truck rear, and trailer front, what would you inspect next? When you get in the cab and start the engine during the in-cab part of your inspection, what do you do first? The test is formatted and written similarly to the real test to get you as prepared as possible to pass. In fact, our practice test is drawn from the same resource as the real test – the North Carolina CDL Handbook . Don’t be surprised if you see similar or even the same questions on the real test after you take our practice test. One difference between our practice test and the real test is that you can take our test multiple times – as many times as you need to build the knowledge to pass. Take our test and start practicing now.

North Carolina CDL Pre-Trip Inspection Overview:

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What to Keep in Mind During Pre- and Post-Trip Inspections

October 19, 2023 • By Christy Grimes • Bookmark +

One of the most important things a school bus driver can do is familiarize themselves with their vehicle. Drivers know their vehicles better than anyone else, so they know best when something looks out of place.

Photo: Canva/School Bus Fleet

Before school bus drivers begin their daily routes, they must ensure that the bus they will be driving works; children’s lives depend on it . School Bus Fleet talked to a school bus technician/substitute driver to get tips on conducting proper pre- and post-trip inspections .

Get Familiar with Your School Bus

Beyond the Wrench: How Software Can Help With Your Inspections

“If something doesn't look right, you want to look at it a little more,” Perry (Iowa) Community School District bus technician and substitute driver Ralph Walker said. “After you drive it a couple of times, you'll kind of have an idea of what on your vehicle is going to be normal. If you don't know what it is, don't be afraid to ask questions [to your supervisor or the mechanic]. Because they want it to be safe too.”

Ignoring something that looks off can be extremely dangerous.

“It's better to ask and get some kind of an answer you can work with than to say, ‘it doesn't look right but I'm going to go anyways.’ That's where people get in trouble and [become] a road hazard or end up getting somebody hurt,” Walker emphasized.

Doing pre- and post-trip inspections every day can become redundant, but it’s crucial to give yourself time each morning and evening to check your vehicle. After you leave the bus depot for the day, someone could back into the bus, leaving a dent. While that may just seem cosmetic, even a minor collision could lead to damage to the components that you can’t see. Noting a simple dent could allow a technician to find mechanical issues that would have otherwise led to a breakdown.

Stay Focused on Inspection Consistency

The worst thing you can do as a school bus driver is become complacent in your inspections .

“If you're getting that complacent, you need to do something different,” Walker said. “Take a break; something’s got to change because at that point you're becoming a safety issue, not just to yourself, but to your passengers and to other people.”

If nothing else, this process helps you realize what to watch for on your personal vehicle so you know when something is awry.

Advice for New Drivers

This process can seem daunting for new school bus drivers . Walker stressed the importance of asking a more senior driver, a technician, or your supervisor for guidance on the inspection process.

“A new person is going to be a little overwhelmed with this. And it's not that difficult. But it does take a bit to learn what parts move what parts shouldn't,” Walker added.

Tips to Optimize Your Pre- and Post-Trip Inspections

Here are several things Walker suggests doing each day to optimize your pre- and post-trip inspections:

• Give yourself plenty of time: A proper inspection should take around 15 minutes.
• Do a walkaround: A basic walkaround will reveal a lot – leaks, exterior damage, low tire levels, etc.
• Look under the hood: Check fluid levels; make sure all components are still connected; look for loose bolts; etc.
• Check underneath the vehicle: Is there a puddle of liquid under the bus? Note the color of the liquid. If you’re not sure what it is, ask a technician or a supervisor.
• Adjust the mirrors: Do the crossover and rearview mirrors give you a good view of the area surrounding your bus?
• Don’t ignore the instrument panel: When you get in the front seat, check the fuel level, and check all gauges for proper operation.
• Do a quick light check: Do your headlights and taillamps work? Make sure the turn signals — both front and rear — work.
• Check the safety features: Make sure the stop arm opens and closes. Check that the stop sign works and flashes like it should. Does the emergency exit door open? Do the windshield wipers work properly? If not, that will be a safety hazard in wet weather .
• Look for discrepancies: Once you’re familiar with your vehicle, you’ll notice when something sounds different or looks different.
• Remember that both the pre- and the post-trip inspection are important: Some issues may not reveal themselves until after the bus has been running. A leak on a cold bus may not be as visible as a leak on a bus that has just been running.

These are just some basic tips to keep in mind. Talk to your transportation department and see if they have a list available of specific vehicle components to inspect every day. If your department does not have one, your state pupil transportation department may.

Bottom line, the pre- and post-trip inspection is one of the most important parts of your daily duties. Make sure you always treat it as such.

“[If you see something wrong with the bus], don’t just hit the road with it. Be cautious and be proactive,” Walker said.

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Christy Grimes

Senior Editor

Christy Grimes is a Senior Editor at Bobit, working on Automotive Fleet and Government Fleet publications. She has also written for School Bus Fleet.

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