trek 950 singletrack weight

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• 950 Singletrack

Trek 950 Singletrack 1991

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1990 Trek 950 Singletrack Restoration (2021 Update)

Six years ago, I started a project to restore, more like resto-mod, a Trek 950 that I found on Craigslist for $125. You can read more about the original build here .

My initial intent was not to do mostly short rides. However, I loved it so much, I started wondering about making the bike more capable and more modern while keeping the original good looks.

Upgrades I Made to the Trek 950 this Year

The updates that I made really changed the riding position of this bike. 4 inch rise on the handlebars, shorter stem, new saddle, new drive train. Prior to making these changes, it would be hard for me to ride past 2 hours on this bike. Now, it feels a bit more like an aggressive beach cruiser which is really fun and I like it!

The best rides are to the coffee shop!

(There are affiliate links below. These are products that I’m actually using. )

New Saddle. Brooks B17 Saddle . I always wanted to try this one. So far I like it. I’ll have to do a full review in the future.

Mone Meal Replacement Bars. Learn more here. These are sick. You gotta read the description on Mone site if you get a chance. This guy works magic and I love that they are hand made.

Sram 1x drivetrain

• Truvativ Bottom Bracket . This is a small upgrade over the square taper bottom bracket that I had installed in my first work on this bike. But allows for an affordable 1x crankset via SRAM.
• SRAM crankset – 32t . I love this option and have the same one on my Surly Karate Monkey.
• 9 Speed Chain . Always feels good to put a new chain on.

Shorter Stem. Wake 50MM

New Grips: Raceface Grips. These are surprisingly comfortable and feel amazing when riding.

Bikepacking Test Ride

After all this, I was able to get out for a super fun event where you bring nothing but a bike + $40 and plan for a Bikepacking night. We all rolled into Walmart at 9PM, loaded up on cheap blankets and hit a local campground. It was super fun. Knocked out 50 miles locally in a short/long day.

Bike Lights I’m using currently:

NightRider 1800 . This bike light has three settings and the lowest is sufficient for riding slowly on trails. The brightest is a luxury for shorter trips and on roads.

NightRider Cherrybomb 35 Taillight . This like is also so bright that when people ask not to ride behind me because it can hurt their eyes. Usually, I’m happy to ride in the back and make sure everyone is seen.

What’s missing from this Trek 950 Restoration?

Trek 950 original wheel set is holding me back from the future!

The original rear wheel is only built for a 7 speed cassette. I actually have 9 speed cassette modified into an 8 speed and this works with my 9 speed friction shifter from Microshift.

Riding up steel hill, there’s just not enough range with the 1x drivetrain. The next move will be to upgrade to a new rear wheel / hub and get a full 9 speed cassette on there.

I’ve looked into options with the standard Shimano/SRAM or potentially Box Prime 9. With the wheels being 26 inches, I probably don’t need a 50t cassette. 42 would probably be sufficient. I’m going to think on this, I’ll post an update when I make the move.

Potentially going up to a 34 in the front and putting a wider range in the back would be ideal and cover all the riding.

I’m currently on 2.0 inch tires. Going slightly wider would be fun, but there’s not a ton of room.

I’ve also considered converting to disc brakes. There’s pros and cons to that as well.

• 1998, Trek, 950

1998 Trek 950

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Trek 950 Singletrack – 13in Frame – 26in Wheel – Purple – PGH#20088

$ 325.00

Nimble, comfortable steel frame from Trek. This type of bike is incredibly versatile and will carry you safely over a wide variety of terrain. From dirt paths to fire roads to the grocery store and back. Wide range of gearing and rack mounts make this bike ready for anything. Small size and tough frame makes this bike a good choice for a first grown-up ride! Like all our bikes, this one has been fully tuned, checked by 2 professional mechanics, and has received new replacement parts and upgrades so that all you have to do is saddle up and ride. 👍

Out of stock

Description

Would Fit Humans Sized: 4’9″ – 5’1

Would be Great for: Grocery gettin’, adventures, town life, commuting

Age/Era:  Late 90’s

Frame Material: Steel

# of Speeds: 21 (3×7)

Unique Features: Grip shifters, rack mounts, slick tires, V brakes

All sales are final. No test rides are available at this time. When our shop re-opens to the public following the coronavirus outbreak, we’ll be happy to discuss options for fit customization, upgrades, and accessories. 

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1994 Trek 950

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I realize that most of the people on here have ultra high end bikes - things that I could only dream of back when I was really into biking from 88-99 but I have always been on the lower end of the market. Tonight at a pawn shop I came across a really nice 1994 Trek 950 steel rigid bike. It appears to be in great shape with all original compenentry - full LX rapidfire plus with an XT rear derailer. I think it has been at the shop for a while and I am guessing I could pick it up for around $75. I am considering it but was wondering if anyone has any input into this bike. Is this the higher end of the Trek Steel bikes? If not - then what is the difference between this frameset and the 970 or 990 bikes? It is made in the USA and is TIG welded (not lugged). Any idea what a 16.5" frame would weigh on this model? I assume it has a 1-1/8" headset? Any input you have on this would be great!  

the 950 is a great frame...True Temper OXIII, I think. That sounds fair, but see if you can talk the price down a little. Say somethng like "It doesn't even have shox...it can't be worth more than that Murray with shox on it..." then tell 'em $50 and see how it goes. Those frames were handmade in Madison, sequential tig blah blah blah...high quality, consistent, and a love/hate ride...try before you buy. Either you'll love it, or you'll despise it. And I think they were suspension cerrected, as well... rb  

if you are sure of the year (94), then it shares the same tigged trek/truetemper DB frame as the 970. no 990's in 94. it wasnt until 95 that 970/990's were bumped up a grade and given the OX-3 frame. 1995 950's kept the OX-2 frame and were speced with STX parts and trek claimed weight of 25.6 lbs. the 94 sold for about $850. hope this helps and concider me in the low-mid level bike crowd as well.  

I'd be on that like white on rice. I rode a '96 970 until about 2 years ago,now on a '04 stumpjumper hardtail and it's rattling my fillings out. I really, really miss that steel frame. I've ridden for 15 years and that was by far the best feeling hardtail I've owned. I hopped on a buddy's 950 years ago for a short ride (OX2 tubing) and couldnt tell the difference between it and the 970 with OX3. I'd buy it and at the least you've got a great singlespeed platform. Mine had a 1 1/8 headtube, to answer your question.  

I am pretty sure it is a 1994 based on the research I have done on the web. The 93 bike is the first one with the same component group (LX rapidfire+) but the frame color is listed as black with coral decals. This one is purplish blue with gold decals (I think) which is closest to the color listed for 94 (ice blue). The 95 bike has STX-RC so I know it isn't that. The pawn shop has it marked at $139.99 but they are having a 30% off sale to clear out seasonal items before the snow flies. That brings their asking price down to around $98 - which I think is too much for an 11 year old bike with no suspension! (sounds like a good reason to bargain with me on it!). I have been frequenting this particular shop since it opened a couple years ago - and they don't ever seem to sell a bike which will help my cause hopefully. They have a mid 90's Gary Fisher Supercaliber with a Judy SL and XT v-brakes - very well used - that they have marked at $749.99! This bike has been sitting there since mid 2003 (the date is marked on the tag) and I would think they will be sitting on it for another several years unless they drop the price by 75%! My other bike is a 1994 Schwinn High Sierra SS - double butted cromo frameset made in Japan. Virtually everything on the bike has been replaced (Manitou FSti fork, XT V-brakes and rapidfire, XT derailers, etc) but the frames toptube has always seemed really short to me so I thought I would try something else and maybe transfer over some of the nicer components from my Schwinn. Would this 950 frameset be a better quality - and maybe even lighter - frameset that the old Schwinn?  

Well the shop wouldn't budge on the price of $98 so I walked. I guess I will check back in a month or two and see if it is still there - then make another offer. Damn. Anyone have a decent quality cromo frame they want to get rid of for cheap? Doesn't need to be to fancy - I am just looking for a change.  

what size is the high seirra ss??  

The High Sierra is a 16.5". It seems to have a shorter top tube than some other bikes. I am going to check to see if they still have the Trek next week I think. For some reason I want this bike - and I suppose I could piece together the Schwinn by swapping out some parts and sell it on Craigs List or something and probably come out ahead.  

New member here. My wife has that exact bike, also a 16.5 inch. You know, if I found one in my size for $100, I'd snag it. Hers is a hoot to ride, even though it's too small for me.  

Okay - so since I have become obsessed with this now - I went to another shop today and found an even earlier Trek 930 in great shape. The frame is lugged with a somewhat bright purple paintjob. The bike has some sort of Trek suspension fork and Altus rapid fire plus shifter and components. What year is this? What is a more desireable frame - the TIG welded 950 or the lugged 930? Will there be much of a weight difference? This bike has some cheapy rear wheel on it that doesn't match the rest of the bike - but I think I have a usable one at home to replace it with. Thanks all!  

It looks like the 930 is actually a 1993 Trek 930shx in electric plum with black decals. Anyone know if this is a 1 or 1-1/8 headset? It has a threadless headset but I couldn't tell what size it was.  

Dhorn33 said: It looks like the 930 is actually a 1993 Trek 930shx in electric plum with black decals. Anyone know if this is a 1 or 1-1/8 headset? It has a threadless headset but I couldn't tell what size it was. Click to expand...

yea, ive got an old 1993 MTB mag that reviews that 930. its got like a 6 lb. frame with a total bike weight of over 30lbs. watta tank.  

11111  

I was riding a 94 (or 95...can't remember) 950 until 5 years ago. I regret selling it - it rode soooo nicely. Given a choice between the sub-four pound no-name aluminum hardtail I ride now and having my 950 "tank" back, I'd take the 950 no question.  

A 6 pound frame?? I am thinking I will pick it up and strip it down to see how the frame measures up. If it is a tank I will put it back together and throw it out on Craigslist to make a quick profit to put towards the new 950. Are the lugged frames heavier than the tigged ones?  

Dhorn33 said: Okay - so since I have become obsessed with this now - I went to another shop today and found an even earlier Trek 930 in great shape. The frame is lugged with a somewhat bright purple paintjob. The bike has some sort of Trek suspension fork and Altus rapid fire plus shifter and components. What year is this? What is a more desireable frame - the TIG welded 950 or the lugged 930? Will there be much of a weight difference? This bike has some cheapy rear wheel on it that doesn't match the rest of the bike - but I think I have a usable one at home to replace it with. Thanks all! Click to expand...

Rodneyleon said: I just happened to weigh my wifes 950 this weekend. with slicks and a lb Body Geometry saddle, it was 24.7lb. Click to expand...

SpinWheelz said: Here's my refinished Trek 950. It's a 1991 model, though. Lugged steel, True Temper OX Platinum. Click to expand...

Well - I guess the old saying is true - "You snooze you lose!". I went to get the 950 yesterday and it is already gone. bummer. So instead I went and bought the 1993 Trek 930 for $60. The componentry on this bike is definitely not worth hanging on to - but I am happy to confirm that it does have a 1-1/8" headset so hopefully I can throw a rigid fork on it and start transferring some of my XT components to it and ride till the snow flies. I will post a pic sometime soon.  

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90s Trek MTBs - Steel frames, rigid forks, 26" wheels

Full list of steel, rigid fork mountain bike models Trek made between 1990 and 1999, grouped by year, containing details on frames and main components for easy reference.

Based on riding style, build level and performance, Trek offered these in two series. The 9XX series , called Single Track , consists of a range of race, competition and performance bikes, aimed at pro riders and serious off-road enthusiasts. The 8XX series , called Antelope until 1993 and Mountain Track from 1994, covers a range of multipurpose models, from commuting and recreation to trail and light mountain biking.

1990 View catalog

Trek 990 Single Track (1990)

Trek 970 Single Track (1990)

Trek 950 Single Track (1990)

Trek 930 Single Track (1990)

Trek 850 Antelope (1990)

Trek 830 Antelope (1990)

Trek 820 Antelope (1990)

Trek 800 Antelope (1990)

1991 view catalog.

Trek 990 Single Track Competition (1991)

Trek 970 Single Track Competition (1991)

Trek 950 Single Track Performance (1991)

Trek 930 Single Track Performance (1991)

Trek 850 Antelope Performance (1991)

Trek 830 Antelope Mountain Sport (1991)

Trek 820 Antelope Trail Performance (1991)

Trek 800 Antelope Sport Trail (1991)

1992 view catalog.

Trek 970 SingleTrack Competition (1992)

Trek 950 SingleTrack Performance (1992)

Trek 930 SingleTrack Performance (1992)

Trek 850 Antelope Performance (1992)

Trek 830 Antelope Trail Performance (1992)

Trek 820 Antelope Sport Trail (1992)

Trek 800 Antelope Sport Trail (1992)

1993 view catalog.

Trek 970 SingleTrack Competition Race (1993)

Trek 950 SingleTrack Performance (1993)

Trek 930 SingleTrack Performance (1993)

Trek 830 Antelope Performance Trail (1993)

Trek 820 Antelope Sport Trail (1993)

Trek 800 Antelope Sport (1993)

1994 view catalog.

Trek 970 SingleTrack Competition (1994)

Trek 950 SingleTrack Performance (1994)

Trek 930 SingleTrack Performance (1994)

Trek 920 SingleTrack Performance (1994)

Trek 850 Mountain Track Performance (1994)

Trek 830 Mountain Track Performance Trail

Trek 820 Mountain Track Sport Trail (1994)

Trek 800 Mountain Track Sport (1994)

1995 view catalog.

Trek 990 SingleTrack ZX Series Competition (1995)

Trek 970 SingleTrack ZX Series Performance

Trek 950 SingleTrack Performance (1995)

Trek 930 SingleTrack Performance (1995)

Trek 850 Mountain Track Sport (1995)

Trek 830 Mountain Track Sport (1995)

Trek 820 Mountain Track Recreation (1995)

Trek 800 Mountain Track Recreation (1995)

1996 view catalog.

Trek 990 SingleTrack ZX Series Competition (1996)

Trek 970 SingleTrack ZX Series High Performance (1996)

Trek 950 SingleTrack High Performance (1996)

Trek 930 SingleTrack Performance (1996)

Trek 850 Mountain Track XC Enthusiast (1996)

Trek 830 Mountain Track XC Enthusiast (1996)

Trek 820 Mountain Track Recreation (1996)

Trek 800 Mountain Track Recreation (1996)

Trek 800 Sport Mountain Track Recreation (1996)

1997 view catalog.

Trek 930 SingleTrack XC Series Performance (1997)

Trek 850 Mountain Track XC Series Enthusiast (1997)

Trek 830 Mountain Track XC Series Enthusiast (1997)

Trek 820 Mountain Track Recreation (1997)

Trek 800 Mountain Track Recreation (1997)

Trek 800 Sport Mountain Track Recreation (1997)

1998 view catalog.

Trek 920 SingleTrack Performance (1998)

Trek 820 Mountain Track Enthusiast (1998)

Trek 800 Mountain Track Recreation (1998)

Trek 800 Sport Mountain Track Recreation (1998)

1999 view catalog.

Trek 820 Mountain Track Recreation (1999)

Trek 800 Mountain Track Recreation (1999)

Trek 800 Sport Mountain Track Recreation (1999)

Acronym for all terrain bike.

Trek's exclusive fork design.

A tube having different wall thicknesses along its length, while its diameter remains constant.

Low alloy steel with a medium carbon content, that gets its name from the primary alloying elements, chromium and molybendium. It has an excellent strength to weight ratio and is considerably stronger, harder more durable than mild carbon steel.

Trek's exclusive fork design using taper gauge tubing and provides a blade with more elasticity for better shock absoption.

The thickness of the tube at both ends is thicker than in the centre.

Shifting system, where part of the handlebar grip rotates back and forth, clicking into each gear.

Low alloy steel that can withstand significant stress before breaking or becoming deformed. The term 'tensile' refers to the amount of stress a material can endure before failing.

Steel tubing connected with socket-like sleeves, called lugs.

Shimano's multi-condition brake system with specialized shoes, levers and cables designed for enhanced stopping power in rain, mud and snow.

A house brand for Trek during the 80s and early 90s.

Optimal Dimension; Trek's large diameter, thin wall tubing design.

Oversize; Trek's large diameter, thin wall tubing design.

Shimano's oversize hub system designed to minimize wheel flex.

Shimano's under handlebar, two-finger shift system, giving riders the ability to downshift more than one gears in one stroke.

Brake lever system that lets riders adjust braking power modulation.

Shimano Integrated Shifting. Shift mechanism indents control cable advance for quick, precise gear changes without over-shifting.

Shimano Linear Response. Friction reducing levers, cables and calipers.

Japanese steel tubing manufacturer for bicycle frames.

A tube having a maller diameter at one end and a larger diameter on the other end.

Tungsten Inert Gas welding is an arc welding process that produces the weld with a non-consumable tungsten electrode.

Trek-designed components. The higher the number ona given component, the higher its performance level.

Three different wall thicknesses along the length.

American tubing manufacturer.

Special all-terrain tubing, developed to withstand demands of off-road cycling.

A lighter weight version of the AT frame set, featuring a triple-butted down tube.

Zero Excess; Trek's guiding principle of making stronger bikes with less material.

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Electric Trek 950 Singletrack

1991 Trek 950 Singletrack

Lugged Trek singletrack frame converted to modern threadless (Was factory 1 1/8" threaded). No original parts although some are unintentionally period correct.

Frame: 1991 Trek 950 (19"5)

Fork/Headset: Surly LHT Fork / FSA Orbit MX 1 1/8 headset

Crankset/Bottom Bracket: Original Shimano LX Cranks / Tange LN 3592 BB

Pedals: VP Resin

Drivetrain/Cog/Chainring/Chain: Sram 8 Speed Cassette and Chain. Old Shimano 24t Granny gear, Origin8 36t ring (Big ring removed)

Derailleurs/Shifters: Shimano RD-M510 9sp Rear / Shimano LX FD / SunTour LD-2800 Power Ratchet Thumb Shifters

Handlebars/Stem: Soma Dream Riser Bars / Origin8 Everland 40*x80mm stem. Giant Tactal Lock on Grips

Saddle/Seatpost: 90's WTB Speed Saddle / Kalloy SP-265 UNO Seatpost - 26.8mm

Brakes: Shimano BR 400 V-brakes, Avid FRP5 Levers

Front Wheel/Hub/Tire: 26" Alex Rims / Shimano Hubs / Maxxis DTH 26x2.1

Rear Wheel/Hub/Tire: 26"Alex Rims / Shimano Hubs / Maxxis DTH 26x2.1

More Info: I really wanted to not only make this bike a "do it all", comfortable to ride bomber, but also expand my home mechanic skills. So I rebuilt or replaced everything possible on this bike whether it needed it or not. Once the frame was stripped, I sealed all tube openings with FlexSeal tape and filled the inside of the tubes to soak overnight with EvapoRust, and then FluidFilm treatment. I swapped the headset with DIY hardware store fittings instead of expensive pressing tools, replaced the loose ball bottom bracket with a sealed unit, and rebuilt the hubs on the craigslist wheels. Had a lot of fun with this project and now it's my main commuter bike.

Added over 2 years ago by fdrowell . Last updated about 1 year ago.

KojiKit says:

Beautiful build! I've got the same frame, but I can't figure out how to set up the front derailleur with the extra FD cable stop doohickey. Can you illuminate how you did it?

Posted 19 days ago

razzzberries says:

Very nice build! Can you comment on converting a triple crank arm to a compact-style crank setup? Considering doing this for one of my bikes.

Posted almost 2 years ago

fdrowell says:

Sure - you'll just need single speed chainring bolts since the original bolts will bottom out without the thickness of the third ring. Dial in the front derailleur limit screw so you don't push your chain off and you're good to go! Nothing wrong with a triple but when I don't need the extra high gearing I prefer 2x as it just feels neater and simpler.

1991 , 90s , 950 , commuter , conversion , cruiser , lugged , mountain-bike , singletrack , steel , trek , vintage

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How to ride singletrack – essential skills for new mountain bikers

From rocks and roots to jumps and berms, here are our tips to riding your local singletrack trails better

If you are a mountain biker, chances are that you've already ridden singletrack as it's one of the most common types of mountain bike trail . Mountain bike trail systems are often designed around singletrack but it's also common when riding natural trails as well, so knowing how to ride singletrack is one of the most important skills to master as you progress. 

What is singletrack? Well, singletrack trails are usually around 12 inches (30cm) in width, but they might be wider or narrower. Mountain bikes are designed to ride singletrack trails fast and efficiently and even push the boundaries of what can be done on a given trail. 

What can be found on singletrack mountain bike trails varies widely. Some are smooth while others are rocky and rough. Some are designed to be ridden uphill and others are sculpted to maximize the downhill fun. You'll probably encounter rocks, roots, logs, and even jumps and drops.

It's all a lot to take in, but every ride presents a chance to practice new mountain bike skills . Here are our tips on how to ride singletrack, so you can ride your local trails better, faster, and with less effort. 

Look along the trail

One of the most fundamental skills to practice when riding singletrack is to look ahead. Trails that are narrow and technical require intense focus, and looking ahead will help you navigate all of the different features. But even on easier trails, you'll feel pretty awkward if you don't look to where you are going. 

Your eyes will naturally pull your body in the direction that they're looking. So if you are staring at a tree on the side of the trail, you will be more likely to crash into that tree. But if you look ahead at the trail, you'll stay on the trail. 

Riding singletrack fast and fluidly is all about linking together the various sections of the trail. A key component to that is corners. Looking ahead is also beneficial when cornering. Looking down the trail past the exit of the corner will help you ride through the turn easier. 

Pumping the trail

The obvious way to increase your speed when riding any trail is to hit the pedals, but there's another and more fluid way in which you can give yourself more momentum. By compressing your body on the downslopes of undulating sections and then extending your body upwards on the upslopes, you can give yourself more speed.

This motion is called pumping and while it can take some practice to get right, done well it can be just as effective as getting in some quick pedal strokes, but has the advantage of being feeling smoother more efficient. Timing is everything with each pump and a great place to learn the technique is at your nearest pump track. 

Tackling corners and berms

Learning to corner effectively is probably the most important basic skill to master as a mountain biker. The kind of corner you'll most commonly encounter are flat corners. These can be some of the most difficult to get around because traction is often sparse. 

The best mountain bike tires are designed to dig into the ground, which provides the grip and traction that prevents you from falling. On flat corners, the rider has to be more intentional about digging their tires into the ground and finding that grip. This can be accomplished by leaning the bike over and lowering your outside foot so that the outside crank is in the six o'clock position. It's also important to stay balanced on the bike and keep weight over the front tire, as that's usually the first to slide out. 

Trails with berms are a bit easier. Berms are banked turns that are built by trail builders to make corners easier and create a better experience on the trail. A lot of the same flat cornering technique applies when learning how to ride berms , but you don't have to worry about grip as much because the berm provides much-needed stability. 

When the turns get really tight, they turn into switchbacks, which can sometimes exceed more than 180-degrees. These are challenging to ride down as choosing  how to ride switchbacks greatly depends on the corner, they are also used to make climbing up steep slopes possible and easier.

On some corners, you don't have to worry about traction as much. Slight bends in the trail can be ridden without even touching the brakes - simply enjoy the speed and flow. 

Riding roots and rocks

You'll encounter rocks and roots on the vast majority of mountain bike trails, particularly rocky sections of trail are called rock gardens.

Another feature that makes trails more technically challenging is off-camber sections. This is when the tread of the trail is sloping away from the direction of travel. This is another scenario where traction is critical. 

The first step when figuring out how to ride rock gardens and roots is to pick a line. Sometimes there is a clear path through the mess, but other times there are multiple possible paths. Generally, you want to pick the smoothest and quickest looking line, but you have to consider if there are potential challenges with that line. Sometimes the fastest line is not the most obvious one. 

The challenge of riding rocks and roots is compounded when there are wet conditions, as roots and rocks can become slippery. In this case, line choice becomes more critical, and those who know how to ride in the rain will know that it's super important to not touch your brakes when on slippery surfaces in order to not lose traction and quickly meet the ground. 

Hitting jumps and drops

Jumps and drops look super cool to ride but are also quite intimidating. It's important to take things steady and work your way up to bigger features as your skill and confidence progresses. Easier trails will feature alternate lines or jumps that can be easily rolled over. But more advanced trails could feature jumps and drops where air time is mandatory. 

Confidence is a huge part of tackling jumps. Pump tracks are a good place to begin learning how to jump. You can pull up off a roller or small jump to begin understanding what it feels like to have both wheels off the ground. 

Then you can move on to tabletop jumps. These jumps don't have a gap in the middle, so they are ideal for practicing. Tabletops are good for learning how much speed is needed for a given gap as well as controlling yourself and your bike in the air. Finally, once you are comfortable you can move onto double jumps and gaps. 

Drops require a lot of the same skills. Start by rolling off a curb and landing with both wheels at the same time. Then you can move onto bigger drops and more natural terrain. 

Corners, technical features, and jumps and drops are the majority of what you will find on singletrack trails. Once you practice it all and start to become confident in your abilities, the feeling of flying down a trail is unbeatable. 

Remember to practice proper mountain biking etiquette . Lots of trails are multi-use, meaning that you'll encounter hikers and other trail users. If you're not at a specified mountain bike park or trail, there could be uphill riders and traffic too.

Once you've mastered your local trails, there are countless other singletrack trails around the world to explore, with an infinite combination of features. So keep on riding and exploring. 

Ryan Simonovich has been riding and racing for nearly a decade. He got his start as a cross-country mountain bike racer in California, where he cultivated his love for riding all types of bikes. Ryan eventually gravitated toward enduro and downhill racing but has also been found in the occasional road and cyclo-cross events. Today, he regularly rides the trails of Durango, Colorado, and is aiming to make a career out of chronicling the sport of cycling. 

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Loved the world over, the Marlin has long held the hearts of new riders and seasoned rippers alike, and to keep everyone rolling with ear-to-ear grins we’ve revamped it with more trail confidence than ever. Whether zipping through town, dipping your toes into the trail for the first time or slicing through switchbacks as a well-seasoned rider, you’ll appreciate the sleek new frame that ups the capability and brings looks to match. There’s a reason why it’s always been your favourite.

Total trail confidence A bike's geometry is the defining framework it's built on, and the Marlin is a true mountain bike at it's core. Its measurements are perfectly dialled to give you a confidence-inspiring, planted feel when you’re rolling down steep and bumpy trails, while keeping it easy to pedal back to the top when you’re ready for another lap.

Marlin’s head tube (a) sits at a slacker (more acute) angle. The slacker head tube angle (b) moves your front wheel further in front of you. Take it to the trail, and this slacker head tube angle (b) boosts stability and control for confidence when descents get steep and rowdy.

To balance a slacker head tube angle (b) , the Marlin features a steeper (more upright) seat tube angle (d) . A steeper seat tube (c) lets you get the most out of every pedal stroke, so you don’t waste power on the climb to the top.

The Marlin is equipped with a short stem and wider handlebar for more direct control and responsiveness when you’re manoeuvring through rocks and roots. Meanwhile, a longer reach (e) gives you extra stability so you can ride faster and more confidently.

Secure your ride

A new Thru-Skew axle provides better rear wheel security, holding your wheel in place snugly and ensuring it doesn't slip out of the frame, even when you're rolling through rough-and-tumble terrain.

Fully guarded

Full-length, full-coverage guards on the chainstay protect your frame and keep your ride quiet.

Float on the trail

Big 2.4˝ tyres elevate traction, so you stay planted on dusty switchbacks. But not only do bigger tyres give you more grip — they also soak up bumps for a smoother ride.

Upgrade ready

With a frame this nice, you won’t want to part ways with your Marlin as your skills grow. The Marlin Gen 3 is upgrade-ready, so you can upgrade your bike when you upgrade your skills. New internal cable routing lets you install a dropper post – and sizes XS and up can be upgraded to a bigger 120 mm fork when you’re ready to take on bigger trails.

A bike for everyone We believe that every rider deserves a well-fitted bike, that’s why the Marlin is available in every size from XXS to XXL – and even an 'extra-medium' size for riders who fall in between a medium and large. Each size is tuned to its riders, with Smart Wheel Sizing that scales the wheel size with the bike size, so every rider has comfortable standover height. Smaller, XXS and XS frames also feature a curved top tube to boost confidence and make getting on and off a breeze.

• Shop XS bikes

Make Marlin yours Whether you’re regularly ripping up the trail or a rugged city commuter, your Marlin can be fully customised with a treasure-trove of accessories. From kickstands and grips to bottle cages and bags, you can turn your Marlin into the perfect bike for your everyday ride.

• Deck out your Marlin

Trek warranty and backing We believe that when you put your heart and soul into something, you should have the stomach to back it up. That’s why we stand behind all Trek bikes with a limited-lifetime warranty. From your first ride to your 500th, we’ll be here for you in the unlikely event that something goes wrong with your Marlin. All you have to do is pop into your local Trek retailer and you’ll find all the support you need to get back spinning in no time.

The Marlin family Both generations of Marlins are true mountain bikes aimed at the rider who wants a versatile hardtail capable of off-road singletrack or in-city missions. Both generations have a 100 mm travel suspension fork and 29” wheels on most sizes except for smaller sizes with proportionate suspension travel and wheels, thus making it a great bike for shorter riders as well.

Marlin Gen 2

Get all-around versatility on Marlin Gen 2. It fits up to 2.2˝ tyres, and features balanced, neutral geometry that keeps you comfortable and in control as you venture off-road.

Marlin Gen 3

Get serious trail capability with Marlin Gen 3’s bigger, 2.4˝ tyre clearance, internal dropper post routing and a stiffer, more secure ThruSkew rear axle. Plus, its updated longer, slacker geometry gives you a boost in stability on steeper trails and at higher speeds.

Looking for something more to fill your singletrack appetite?

If you’re itching for a lighter weight, even faster hardtail, the X-Caliber is your ride. It’s light, sleek and efficient – perfect for new riders, cross-country racers and anyone who wants to cover a lot more trail miles in a lot less time.

The Roscoe delivers the capability of a full suspension trail bike in a simple hardtail package. The laid-back geometry that gives you tons of stability on rowdier trails, and it rolls on big 2.6˝ tyres that give tons of traction for getting through rough and tricky sections of trail.