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• Day Ten, Coimbra to Mealhada

Day Ten on the Camino Portugués ~ Coimbra to Mealhada, 24.4 Km (15.2 Miles)

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Our day ten on the Camino Portugués was a quiet walk through the north of Coimbra along the river and then through the Portuguese countryside, with few landmarks or distractions. 

This day was not too long, but just perfect for me, after my ankle problems from the days before. My ankle, newly braced for support, gave me no trouble at all on this day!

“You see, during my pilgrimage it became increasingly apparent that I wasn't happy and I had to do something about it - stop making excuses. I realized that you don't have to jump through a series of complicated hoops to achieve a goal. You can just look at a mountain and get a connection with God; you don't have to understand the mountain to feel that.”  ~   Paul Coelho

This Paul Coelho quote was perfect for me on this day ten of our Camino Portugués .  My mission was to walk and observe and feel. God is everywhere.

Map and Stats of Day Ten on the Camino Portugués

All the information that I give you is what I took from my own GPS application that I used each and every day to record elevation and distance. I know my information may conflict with other guides, but between my own device measurements and Google Map adjustments, I give you the best information I know how. 

I placed the albergues/hotels/cafés on my Google map below as usual for your convenience. I also tried to photograph many a café that we passed on by. I hope this information is useful to you, the pilgrimage traveler!

There are two routes through Coimbra , one that follows the river to the west, and the other that takes a longer way through town, and past the Igreja de São Tiago (Santiago Church), which I show in red . Both routes begin in the Largo da Portagem, after the Camino crosses the river into the center of Coimbra.

Depending where you stop/start your journey in Coimbra, will depend on which route is most appropriate for you to take. I included both routes in my GPS tracks below, so that you will have them.

Since we stayed west and down by the river, and we saw the Igreja de São Tiago the prior day, we chose the shorter river route, and this is what I describe in the narrative below. 

Below is the elevation profile for day ten. While it looks like a steep climb after the town of Fornos, about 7.75 km into the day, it really didn't feel that way to us. It is about a 130 meter (420 feet) climb over 5 kilometers. 

Photo-Rich Travelogue of Day Ten on the Camino Portugués

After the best night of sleep I ever had at the Hostal Coimbra Portagem , we set off at 0700. The hostal is only a few steps from the Portagem Square, below, so we were right on the Camino when we stepped out the door. 

The Largo da Portagem was asleep and aglow with the dawning light. No cafés anywhere that we could see that were open at 7:00 a.m. We kept walking.

Walking to the far northeast corner of the square, in the photo above, by the lampost, there is a stairway, in the photo below, with the yellow arrows leading you down.

At the bottom of the stairway the arrows lead you to the Rua dos Gatos, below.

We turned left and onto the Rua do Sargeto Môr, which led us back out to the Mondega River, below.  OR, you can turn right here for the longer route through town. From whatever part of Coimbra you start, the easiest thing to do is just follow the river north and you will be on the Camino.

The walk along the river was on a nice path, a bit decrepit but the views at dawn were lovely. 

Not quite 200 meters after the Camino de Santiago leaves the Mondego River, at approximately 1.5 kilometers from the Portagem Square, we saw a sign for a McDonalds immediately east of us, that said "Open 24 hours." Yay! We could have a nice early breakfast after all, even though it was a McDonalds. 

After crossing the busy road to the east, walking under the complex overpass system of the IC 2 and through a significant puddle, we arrived to find the door to the McDonalds locked! (Our trip to McDonald’s is the reverse of the Camino route coming from town, which passes by the restaurant!) However, an employee smoking outside pointed us to the drive-up. Alright, the 24 hours meant the drive-up. That was OK.

We walked up to the window to order a café con leite. No, it wasn't available, only espresso - no milk. Alright, that was fine too. I ordered a small espresso and Rich, a large. I ordered an Egg McMuffin. No, we were told, breakfast is not available until 8:00. It was 7:20. That was not OK. I asked, is there any food available now? We were told only hamburgers. Bummer. We passed on the hamburgers.

So much for our cultural expectations of McDonalds!  I observed my American reaction, once again, to a McDonald's that didn't have breakfast 24 hours a day! Ha ha ha!

Instead of eating Egg McMuffins, we sat on the curb and dug out some chocolate biscuits we had in our pack to go with our very strong black espressos! It satisfied my hunger, but not my soul's expectations. 

Several hundred meters after the turn-off to McDonalds, you follow along this canal the Rio Velho, below. It is a nice gravel walking path along through here.

After about 1/2 kilometer and at a total of about  2.3 kilometers , after a roundabout, the path crosses to the other side of the road and becomes one made of brick, below. Good thing for the path, because the N111-1 here is extremely busy with morning traffic rushing into Coimbra for the workday. 

After about 300 meters more, the Portuguese Way goes right, at the photo below, leaving the busy EN111-1 to join the Rua Parcelar do Campo.

While the name and appearance of this road says "country," this was so far the busiest, narrowest and most horrible road we had been on in Portugal thus far!

The good news is that this road was recently upgraded, with a separate lane for pilgrims, so it no longer looks like this, below. There are only flexible posts between the pilgrim and the speeding lanes of traffic, but it is a great improvement! Unfortunately, this busy section of road lasts for 2.5 kilometers, so exercise caution.

Fortunately, just before Adémia, along this busy country road, we spied what looked like a shortcut to the left. The Rua Parcelar do Campo makes a big bend to the west, up ahead, that we could see by the cars traveling on it.

We took a chance and started walking on the gravel road, below, that cuts across the field. And it worked! It is a real shortcut. We were thrilled to have had a reprieve from the busy traffic. Look for the shortcut at approximately 5 kilometers into the day (2.5 km from the turnoff).

The shortcut joins the Rua Cabeço to walk into the town of Adémia .

By about 5.6 kilometers into our day ten on the Camino Portugués, walking through the town of Adémia, we noticed the first open café, below, the Adega do Leite. It was conveniently located across the EN111 and right along the Camino. Another meal of sugar, caffeine and this time, milk awaited us!

In the café we ran into a youngish Mexican pilgrim and her teenage daughter, who had spotted us in Coimbra the prior day and pegged us as pilgrims! There were moving very fast, keeping up with a group of young Portuguese pilgrims who were also at the café. 

We chatted only briefly, as they were preparing to leave. The ladies left us some pastries they didn't finish, so all we had to order was the usual café con leite. Plus we continued to supplement our meals with fresh oranges from untended trees along the Way. 

We were to never see this group of pilgrims again. We were in no such rush!

The Camino continues behind the café and takes the first and most immediate left onto the Rua Nova de São João. After walking through Adémia, the Way turns left onto this road below, the Rua da Espertina at about 5.9 kilometers . It is after Adémia that the Way goes from flat to climbing. 

We traversed this road for about 2/3 kilometer...

...until it stayed right here and onto the Rua Valverde. There is a quaint little footbridge in the background in the photo below. 

After a bit more than a half kilometer on the Rua Valverde, the town of Fornos is ahead.

There are some interesting buildings in this town, including the one below, with the mural. A waymark on the building directs the pilgrimage traveler to the left  onto the Rua Nossa Senhora da Esperança.  

On this street we passed this typical home, below left in the main square, after 7.65 kilometers , with a mural to Fátima and a Camino waymark signaling a left turn, all on the same home.

We followed the waymarks through the town, weaving in and out of small streets, to finally leave Fornos on the Rua Fogueteira, below. 

I did not see any cafés right along the Camino route in Fornos, but there are several a short way off route. You can check the Google map to see them. There is one accommodation, the Casa Morais Turismo Rural , in the main square by the church if you wish to spend the night (+351 967 636 029).

Next we walked under the busy A14 on the road to Trouxemil . This is a nice climb. 

Trouxemil is only a short kilometer farther down the road, the Rua Jacintos from Fornos. 

Arrive in the main square at approximately 8.9 kilometers . The town church is dedicated to Santiago...

...with this pilgrim statue in front of the church. We paused for a brief moment to feel our own pilgrimage, with hands across our hearts, like this guy. It was good to feel and be alive. 

One half kilometer down the road, we encountered this shrine, as we left town on the north side. Yet another reminder for us, to be grateful, for our journey and for just about everything. When you reach this shrine, you are at the top of the first, two kilometer climb of the day.

There were no open cafés in Trouxemil when we went through, but there are several and a mini-market. 

After Trouxemil, the next hamlet is  Adões , below. There is a café, the Café Central here, on the left side of the photo below, in the Largo de Capela (Church Square), at approximately 9.8 kilometers . It appeared to be open.

The small church in the square is the place where the Way turns to the right, onto the Rua Principal. 

At 10.9 kilometers , bear left at a Y-intersection in the next town of Sargento Mor , where in a few meters there is another cafe, the Café Carlos da Bina, shown below. There is also a mini mercado (mini-market) if you need supplies. We did not, so we kept walking. 

On the north side of Sargento Mor this little road leads you to the IC2...

...a horrific road. The passing trucks on the IC2 sent billows of wind gusts, practically knocking me off my feet.  As you can see we hugged the shoulder to the farthest left as possible! I promised to show you the good, the bad, the ugly and the terrible! This was terrible!

So far this day has been my least favorite of all. The clouds were building and it was dismal, and there is more pavement today than any other! 

Fortunately, this highway stretch is only about 800 meters, as the sign for Santa Luzia come into focus, below, at approximately 12.5 kilometers. 

Into the center of Santa Luzia , and the Way quickly veers off the main highway to the left here, as it began to rain on us. There are several cafés at this juncture.

Santa Luzia is roughly at the halfway point for day ten on the Camino Portugués and at the peak elevation for the day . It might be a good place for a break for your Camino, but we kept on because we were looking for a quiet picnic spot. Our packs were freshly filled with supplies from Coimbra.  

The pavement quickly becomes narrower and quieter as we left Santa Luzia...

...and even quieter still as the pavement becomes dirt.

Soon after spying the elderly couple, above, toiling in their plot of land, we found the perfect picnic spot along the gravel road. We set down a space blanket and enjoyed our snack and reprieve. 

This lovely sandy lane goes on for about two kilometers, until just ahead in the photo below...

...where it joins the pavement, the CM1344 at approximately 15.5 kilometers into the day...

...and walks into the town of Mala and its Largo Capela, below. You are approximately 17 kilometers into your day at this chapel. There is a pastry shop just beyond the church, if you need a break at this point. 

After walking through Mala, the Way goes left onto the EM616, below.

We briefly met Marco, the Italian who was putting in 70 kilometer days! Yes, it's true! He was a runner, walking fast and efficiently towards the next town of Lendlosa , reached at about 18.3 kilometers. 

Sometimes when I enter a country village, something attracts my eye. This spring it was the tropical flowers. Here are some brilliant Alstroemeria that I saw at one home. We can only get these tropical flowers at florists where I live! I was thrilled to see them growing along the sidewalk. 

Camino boots also attracted my attention at yet another home along the way:

Seeing and feeling today, was indeed enough! God was near.

After leaving Lendlosa, with only about 6 more kilometers to go for day ten on our Camino Portugués, the hamlet Vimieira is next.

After entering the tiny hamlet of Vimieira, you come to this intersection, below, where you follow the waymark on the back of the stop sign and turn right onto the Rua Fonte Corgo, shown below.

Just beyond the turn, the quaintest of small chapels appears in the "square," where Rich and I took a brief repose on the bench beside it, at about 19.3 kilometers . It would have been a lovely place for a picnic. But we decided to eat later. 

After Vimiera, the Way walks on quiet pavement...

...winds around a bit to join these tractor lanes: 

In the photo above, at the end of this lane, at about 21 kilometers , the Portuguese Camino turns to the right and onto the pavement of the Rua Catarrosa and walks toward Mealhada , our destination for day ten. You will encounter a café almost as soon as you join the pavement.

After only 350 meters the way turns left onto the busy IC2 once again, but on a nice sidewalk, to cross the railroad tracks, below. You will encounter a café almost as soon as you join the pavement. 

In only 400 meters, we turned left off the highway. If you were to stay straight on theIC2, in about 300 meters there is a townhome, called the Casa Branca , a very economical accommodation, your first choice in Mealhada. 

Just beyond the turn off of the IC2 there is the big grocery store, the  Intermarché  on your right. On the left side of the store is a strip of shops, containing the restaurant, the Churrasqueira Lendas na Braza. I was extremely hungry, and convinced Rich to stop.

Rich had been pushing me hard to avoid the rain that seemed to want to happen all day, but never really amounted to much. Plus, I think the Italian racer raised his desire to prove himself!

We had one of the loveliest meals we had the entire trip, below. The fried chicken was to die for. Plus the chickpea and corn meal side dish was so very unusual and delicious, especially since it was drenched in butter! Most likely I loved it because I was so exhausted, hungry and my feet were aching!

After lunch we eyed the Intermarché grocery store. Should we pick up groceries for our dinner? With full bellies, it was hard to justify. Our packs would be too full for the final two kilometers, we wanted to get there, and surely as we walked through town we would see another market?

We decided not to go and walked on into Mealhada. In retrospect, I wished we had gone! Make a wise decision here!

Farther down the road, a nice fountain sends the pilgrimage traveler to the right and towards the heart of the city. 

And onward we walked through town on this street. 

The street above turns into a walking plaza farther on. Here is Rich, looking for a grocery store in town. Note the different clothing on Rich - this was after we reached the albergue and had to return to town for groceries! There is actually a small store to the north side, just before the next turn, shwon in the next photo.

We walked onward to turn left by this prominent mural display on a roundabout, showing a pig being roasted! 

By the murals, this lovely path and park led us onward. I was tired and this path by the park, though lovely and less than a kilometer, seemed very, very long. It was also following the busy IC2, so it was not so peaceful. 

You will pass  by the Oasis Hotel and Restaurant (+351 231 202 081), if you wish to stay closer to town, however, the albergue is not quite a kilometer away. 

The final turn, is off the IC2, onto the Rua Fonte, below, by all these restaurants. Roasted piglet barbeque is the specialty here! There is another accommodation, the Hotel Quinta dos Tres Pinheiros , +351 231 202 391, several meters beyond this turn.

Almost immediately after turning onto the Rua Fonte, the albergue appears on the left. It is easy to spot, see the photo below. 

You turn into the gate here, and walk into a courtyard, where you will see the office. The albergue is straight ahead, and the residencial hotel is the building that you first see. This is all part of a large restaurant/albergue/hotel complex called the Residencial Hilário  that you can pre-book if you wish. Click on the link to see the place.

We chose to stay in the hotel which was clean and with a small, private bath, for only 30 Euro. 

The restaurant Hilário was closed that night, but the owners said if we wanted to cook, we could use the restaurant kitchen! None of the barbeque restaurants opened before 8:00 p.m. and we wanted to put in an earlier night. 

We ended up walking the kilometer all the way back to town to find a grocery store that so we could cook ! The restaurant kitchen was lovely and we quickly made our dinner so we could retire early and rest with our feet up. No swollen ankles for me at all!

Lessons Learned on Day Ten, Camino Portugués

This was perhaps my longest-feeling, worst day ever, on the Camino ~ walking on the industrial routes, with the busy traffic, aching feet, gnawing hunger and the overcast day. I experienced it all and I survived. 

My tips are: 

• Don't walk by an opportunity when you see one. 
• Just seeing is good. 
• Just feeling is good. 
• Just walking is good. 
• Just being is enough.

May you seize the moment on your own day ten on the Camino Portugués.

May you see.

May you feel.

May you walk.

May you just be.

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Things to Do in Mealhada, Portugal - Mealhada Attractions

Things to do in mealhada, tours in and around mealhada.

Best Flavors of Bairrada Winery Route, half day from Coimbra

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Guided tour of the University and city of Coimbra.

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What to do around Mealhada Portugal

June 4, 2023 Leave a Comment

Mealhada Portugal lies northeast of  Coimbra Portugal. The area around the city served as a huge, 260-acre monastic retreat from the 6 th though 18 th centuries. In the 17th century, Portuguese explorers brought trees that brought from around the world to expand the forest.

The area was a battleground in the early 19 th century when the Portuguese and British forces fended off the French.

Whether you prefer to hike through the dozens of trails or visit a fairy-tale palace, this is a nice place to visit.

Buçaco Palace Hotel

In the late 19 th century, King Carlos commissioned a huge, extravagant, Manueline hunting lodge here. It was constructed and decorated by leading Portuguese architects, landscape architects and artists, including those who painted murals and produced azulejos panels of scenes of the war against the French. Carlos died before the Buçaco Palace was complete and it was transformed into a luxury hotel in 1917.

The Palace is just as beautiful outside as it is inside. As we had lunch reservations, we were allowed to access the hotel and explore its incredible Manueline details, murals and tiles—and sample one of the estate’s Buçaco wines.

Our lunch took place on a terrace which overlooks its lovely garden. We also had an opportunity to strolled though the gardens and the incredible, several hundred-foot long wisteria arcade, which was in full bloom when we visited.

The Palace is extraordinary. If we are ever back, we will try to stay there.

National Forest of Buccaco

We also took advantage of one of the complete contemplative trails that the monks built in the woods and parts of two other trails. We hiked the pretty, roughly 4.5-kilometer up and back Vale dos Fetos trail. This moderately steep uphill stone-paved trail goes by a couple dozen single-room buildings each of which has clay sculpture that trace the Stations of the Cross. It ends at a viewpoint hike down roughly 1,000 feet over the valley and the hotel.

We also did parts of two of the other monk-built contemplative trails. Fonte Fria takes you to a double stairway around a terraced spring-fed cascade which goes down to a pretty pond that is shared by bamboo and palm trees.

The other trail, Trail of Ferns, is in a relatively flat rain forest trail that passes by the pond at the base of the Fonte Fria trail and the pond. When we visited in late April, the palm trees and ferns were green and the trail was lined by flowers including huge white calla lilies plus pink, purple and blue flowers. The trail was also home to tall Sequoia and Pine Trees.

Restaurants

Buçaco palace restaurant.

The palace, the dining room and the garden beneath the patio on which we ate are all beautiful. The dishes on the menu sound elaborate, compelling, and expensive. So is the wine list which focuses almost exclusively on expensive Buçaco estate wines. We were prepared to order the optional lunch cover that showcased several intriguing tastes and a flute of Buçaco sparking wine. We planned to supplement that with appetizers of Aveiro Lagoon oysters with “suckling pig popcorn, a half bottle of wine and two main dishes.

After waiting forever to place our order and get our half bottle of wine (a pleasant, but not memorable 2017 Buçaco Branco Reservado), we faced another interminable wait to order our meal. We ended up skipping the cover and the appetizer as a means of keeping the lunch down to 2.5 hours.

We ordered two intriguingly sounding dishes: Braised Algarve scarlet prawns with heads stuffed with mushrooms and Carolina rice with yuzo gel and prawn foam and slow-baked suckling pig belly with local coastal clams and potato hachis with copita and smoked pig jus. Both were fine, if not memorable.

We then had to endure yet another long wait between the time we requested and received the check. While it is worth eating at the restaurant just to access the incredible hotel, it is yet another restaurant that seems to be resting on past laurels and reliance on deep-pocketed hotel guests, and beautiful location. It is certainly not worth going for the food, much less the abysmal service.

Rei dos Leitos (Mealhada)

We did better with our dinner choice In Mealhada. After reviewing the menu and identifying the dishes we were likely to have, we requested the wine list. Our server returned with a 100+ page book which after several pages devoted to champagnes, focused exclusively on Portuguese wines. The thick book summarized their 4,000+-bottle cellar.

After scanning several pages and being very pleasantly surprised to find that perhaps 60 percent priced of the bottles were priced at less than 50 euros and 90 percent were below 100 euros. But being overwhelmed, we put ourselves at our server’s mercy.

After telling him our food choices and what we seek in wines, he asked our price point—assuring us that they had many lovely wines for less than the 40 euros price point we suggested. After a couple more questions and brief explanations of the characteristics of reds from a few different regions, he brought us a bottle of 2015 Titular Alfrocheiro (the grape variety) red from the Dao region. While we both enjoyed the wine and felt that it would go well with the suckling pig Tom planned to order. Joyce rightly felt that it would overpower her seabass and requested a glass of white to go with her dish. The server asked us to let him try something. He brought a pinot noir glass that would allow the wine to open, brought another decanter to double decant some of the wine and then, quite unexpectedly, put the decanter into an ice bucket for a short period. This did indeed open and smooth the wine enough for her to enjoy the very nice wine with her fish.

We enjoyed the food as much as the wine. Tom’s suckling pig came an olive oil/garlic/pepper sauce, salad and, unexpectedly, potato chips. Joyce’s seabass came with prawns and shrimp risotto. While both were very good, Joyce’s seabass, and especially the shrimp risotto were standouts. We followed this with an equally tasty dessert: a sweet egg custard with almonds. The service was as good as the food and the wine—and all for less than the price of the two-dish lunch we had had with the half-bottle of much less interesting white wine. True, the Palace hotel restaurant did offer an incredible atmosphere and more complex preparations. But the food, wine, and service at Rei dos Leitos were all far superior.

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Last Updated on June 4, 2023

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Travel guide Mealhada

Nestled in the heart of Portugal, Mealhada offers a unique blend of local culture, gastronomy, and natural beauty. From the famous Leitão (suckling pig) to the stunning Bussaco Palace, there is plenty to see and do in this picturesque destination. Whether you're seeking adventure in the surrounding mountains or relaxation on the nearby beaches, Mealhada has something for everyone. With a variety of accommodations ranging from charming guesthouses to luxury hotels, you'll find the perfect place to rest and recharge after a day of exploring.

Where to sleep in Mealhada: Best available accommodation options

Discover the best hotels to stay in Mealhada, to help you choose the perfect accommodation according to your needs. You will find plenty of information about accommodations, including details on services and rates, to plan your vacation perfectly.

Residencial Pinho Verde

What to do in mealhada: best activities and tours.

Looking to explore the wonders of Mealhada? Delve into our curated selection of tours and excursions, offering unique experiences and unforgettable adventures.

Mealhada Now

Viana Do Castelo

Ferreira Do Alentejo

Praia Do Norte

Frecuently asked questions about Mealhada

What are the best things to do in mealhada.

Visiting the Bairrada Wine Museum, exploring the Mata Nacional do Bussaco, and dining at local traditional restaurants are popular activities in Mealhada.

Are there kid-friendly activities in Mealhada?

Yes, children can enjoy visiting the Parque da Cidade, playing at the Anadia Municipal Swimming Pools, and exploring the Museu do Brinquedo (Toy Museum).

What are some recommended places to visit in Mealhada?

Tourists should not miss the chance to visit the Mealhada Thermal Springs, the Church of Saint Michael, and the Palace Hotel do Bussaco for a unique experience in Mealhada.

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Located south of Aveiro district and inside the demarcated region of Bairrada, the municipality of Mealhada distinguishes itself by the thermal and nature tourism, the good food and the vast hotel offer. You cannot fail to walk around the mata do Buçaco gardens with their singular beauty and enjoy the multiple colors nature has to offer. Here abound more than 700 different plant species, many of them of exotic origin. From its highest point, the miradouro da Cruz Alta, you may see the Convento de Santa Cruz do Buçaco. The therapeutic waters of Termas do Luso (Luso Thermal Baths and Spa), located on the western slope of serra do Buçaco, are indicated to cure several health problems, in particular skin diseases. The famous leitão assado à moda da Mealhada (Mealhada-style roast suckling pig), roasted in a wood-fired oven, is the symbol of the local gastronomy and which you can accompany with Bairrada's sparkling wine. The Entrudo/Carnival tradition, with its traditional costume parade, is the most crowded popular festivity in the municipality.

What to do in Mealhada

Termas de Luso

Situated on the western slope of the Serra do Bussaco, is the ideal place to regain our strength. Luso's thermal water springs in the central part of the resort, situated in the Centre of the village. Its waters are especially indicated for airway afeções, circulatory problems, endocrine metabolic, rheumatic afeções afeções and afeções skeletal muscle.

Mata Nacional do Bussaco

In a landscape of unique beauty, arises, in the municipality of Mealhada, a real monumental garden, infected by the richness of the site, considered by many, unique in the world, where the colors of nature and the Sun's rays, which penetrate the Grove, mingle in the silence that reigns-Mata Nacional do Buçaco. Sent to plant by the Discalced Carmelites, in …

Leitão Assado à Bairrada

O leitão à Moda da Bairrada é sem dúvida a maior referência gastronómica desta região da Bairrada, na Beira Litoral. A criação de suínos é aliás uma prática comum desde o século XVII. O leitão é enfiado no espeto durante duas horas em forno a lenha. Amarelo como ouro é um prato muito apreciado quer pelos habitantes locais quer pelos …

Museu Etnográfico da Pampilhosa

Space dedicated to ethnology.

Passo do Pretório

É um dos vinte passos da Via Sacra do Bussaco.

Miradouro da Cruz Alta

The views are astounding. From the Atlantic Ocean to the west to the Estrela Mountain to the southeast and the Caramulo Mountain to the northeast. The Buçaco National Woods stand out in the landscape.

Lago da Mata do Bussaco

A wide lake, excellent for pedal boating in couples, in the Buçaco Woods.

Museu Militar do Bussaco

The Military Museum of Buçaco was inaugurated in 1910. Enlarged and remodelled in 1962, it features several weaponry collections, uniforms and equipments used in Battle, namely an important piece of artillery.

Lago do Parque do Luso

A bucolic lake, populated by some ducks, that belongs to the thermae of Luso. Quite inviting for a couple stroll on its banks.

Antiga Sede das Águas do Luso / Sociedade da Água de Luso

A space, once the siege of the Águas do Luso, that currently features several exhibitions about the mineral waters theme.

Miradouro do Moinho de Sula

A space with excellent views, chosen by the English general Crawford, in 1810, to establish his headquarters during the Battle of the Buçaco.

Passeio no Buçaco - Obelisco e Palace Hotel

An easy pedestrian trail. It crosses places linked to the Buçaco Battle that opposed the armies commanded by the marechal Massena and the Portuguese and British troops commanded by Wellington. Along the wya, there are the Military Museum, the Portas …

Convento de Santa Cruz do Bussaco

The former convent of the Discalced Carmelites subsists only, the front, the Church and the cloister. Stress the work of embrechados of the façade, mosaics, murals, colorful enough that vaguely resemble the art of the far East.

Edifício do Palace Hotel do Bussaco

It was here that the September 27, 1810, if waged the battle of Buçaco, in Wellington, commanding the anglo-Portuguese troops defeated the French army under the command of Massena. This important historical moment, which marked the end of the French …

Jardim da Pampilhosa

Lawn and garden with a pond.

Travel Guide

Up to date tourist information about the city's top attractions, where to eat the best suckling pig in portugal.

Inescapable on every visit to the Bairrada region, of which it is a trademark, the piglet has conquered new lands and c…

12 thermal spas and hot springs in Portugal to Improve Your Health and Well-being

Take advantage of the healing powers of the hot springs that abound throughout Portugal. As the old saying goes, a heal…

Where to eat in Mealhada

A funcionar desde 1947, a especialidade desta casa é o Leitão à Bairrada, prato este que já foi mer…

The years go by and the well prepared, delicious food tradition stands, as well as the unique atmos…

Located in a place of great beauty, we find on of the most well known hotels in the country. Its re…

The Litre & restaurant co., installed in space Innovation of Vila Verde owes its name to the oversi…

A modern space that serves regional specialities.

A large, traditional house, where the roast Bairrada sucking pig stands out.

A modern space that specializes in sucking pig.

A familiar restaurant that serves regional dishes. It is also a barbecue house.

A restaurant that specializes in Italian dishes.

Where to sleep in Mealhada

When it comes to the Bussaco Palace Hotel and transposes the first doors of the building, which was one of the last royal palaces, feels that if he's going too…

A Quinta de Lograssol situa-se na aldeia de Lograssol, junto à Mealhada e à serra do Buçaco, no coração da Bairrada. A casa principal, com a sua fachada oito…

Late 19th century building, situated in Luso, with "belle époque" style architecture and interiors very careful. Works all year round.

Near Mealhada

A charming city, Aveiro is nicknamed the Portuguese Venice. And if the "ria" is its ex-libris, the rides on the colorful "moliceiro" boats are one of…

Castelo de Paiva

Castelo de Paiva is situated in the Douro region, a river that makes these lands become fertile and make the farming become one of the main local act…

Oliveira de Azeméis

The municipality of Oliveira de Azeméis is part of the Greater Metropolitan Area of Porto, region of Entre Douro e Vouga, at approximately 208 meters…

Situated in the margins of the Aveiro Lagoon (Ria in Portuguese) and with a close relationship with the Atlantic Ocean, Ílhavo reflects the way of li…

Stage Coímbra – Mealhada

1832 Reviews on

After the visit to the incredible city of Coimbra, it is time to continue the  Camino de Santiago  If you have taken a few days to visit the beautiful city, you will find yourself full of energy and eager to resume the route.

Many pilgrims choose Coimbra as a starting point, if that’s your case, welcome!

Let’s go on the Camino Portugues!

The beginning of today’s stage is unattractive, like any city exit. However, throughout the day we will cross beautiful landscapes, such as eucalyptus and pine forests and sections flanked by olive trees.

During the tour, we will cross a lot of small towns, but without excessive interest. The stage ends in  Mealhada , a peaceful locality on the banks of the river, where we can consider whether to visit Mato de Buçaco or let ourselves be drawn into the quiet pace of the locality.

If you are thinking about walking the Camino de Santiago from Coímbra tell us what your plans are for the Camino de Santiago and we will contact you to advise you on everything you need.

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Length of the Camino: 8 days/ 7 nights to Porto 20 days/ 19 nights to Santiago

Meals Plan: Breakfast and dinner Breakfast

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Itinerary stage Coímbra – Mealhada

Today’s stage on the  Camino Portugues  runs for 25 kilometres. Once we have left Coimbra, we are going to advance through, for the most part, dirt tracks and pleasant trails. Only a small stretch of sandstone will hinder our advance, especially for cyclists and people with reduced mobility.

Coímbra  (Km. 0). Beginning of stage

Practical tips for this section:  those who do not wish to cross the centre of Coimbra, can take an alternative path, walking parallel to the River Mondego. To do this you have to go from Largo da Portaguem to the train station (Estacao Nova) and from there continue along Avenida Cidade Aeminium, parallel to the river.

After crossing the underpass of the IC1 motorway, we can link to the bike path ang which the official route runs. Buen Camino!

The day begins in  Largo da Portagem . We descend the stairs of Rua dos Gatos and continue along Rua Adro de Cima towards Praça do Comércio. We cross the square, passing in front of the São Tiago Church, and follow the arrows along the narrow Rua Eduardo Coelho and Largo do Poço.

Turning to the right, we take Rua da Louça, to the Church of Santa Cruz, the Câmara Municipal, and Coimbra Town Hall. We continue along Rua da Sofia and pass in front of the Churches of Nossa Senhora do Carmo, Graça and São Pedro.

Next to the Church of São Pedro we turn left on Rua Dr. Manuel Rodrigues, passing by the courthouse. On the Gran Avenida Fernão de Magalhães, we turn right and continue for 600 metres to a McDonald’s (km. 1.6).

At 30 metres from McDonald’s, we find a landmark under the motorway viaduct. Here we have to turn left on the pavement, passing under the viaducts and then through a narrow tunnel that passes under the railway tracks. We leave this, arrive at a stop, and cross the avenue, to find a bicycle path.

In the bicycle lane, we find another pillar and arrows, both for the Camino de Santiago and towards Fatima, although evidently pointing in opposite directions. We continue on the right, heading north, advancing parallel to a canal.

Along a pleasant walk, we reach a huge roundabout of the road EN-111, we then cross the roundabout and soon cross the road by a pedestrian crossing, until outdoor parking at the train station  Coimbra B  (Estacao Velha). We continue along the Red Bike lane for 250 metres more, to a fork at which we will find a marker.

At the fork we bend slightly to the right to take an asphalted road, which advances in parallel to an irrigation channel. After 2.7 kilometres we reach a curve where we leave the road on the right and enter the town of  Adémia de Baixo.

Adémia de Baixo (Km. 8)

Practical tips for this section:  Do not forget to look at the sculpture of Santiago Peregrino de Trouxemil, it’s quite peculiar. Buen Camino!

We cross the road EN-111, again, and continue along the street opposite. Following the stones and arrows of the  Camino de Santiago , we reach a small paved road, on which we continue to the left. We enter the town of  Fornos  by a pleasant stretch of trees (km. 10).

On Rua Nossa Senhora da Esperança and Rua do Poço we get back to the road, which we continue to the right, passing a roundabout. The indications point out that we continue on a street to the left, avoiding a curve and returning, again, to the road.

After 300 metres moving along the road we reach a step under the motorway. Then we embark on a steep slope that leads us to Trouxemil, where we find the São Tiago Church, next to the cemetery, and a sculpture of Santiago Peregrino.

Trouxemil  (Km. 11,7)

Practical tips for this section : In this section, you’ll cross different locations, all with their white churches. Note that in the upper part of many of them you can see an alarm or siren. This is intended to warn of fires, unfortunately, they are quite frequent in this region. Buen Camino!

After passing a small square with a couple of benches and yew trees, we enter the neighbouring town of  Adões  (km. 12.4), where we find a newly-constructed white chapel, with a curious vane on the belfry. We continue along the street on the right, advancing for a kilometre between small houses and arriving at the neighbouring town of  Sargento-Mor  (km. 13.6) and its pristine white church.

Following straight on and on the asphalt, we face an ascent that leads us to the national road. We proceed with caution for 800 metres and arrive at the town of  Santa Luzia  (km. 15.5).

By a small street on the left, and just before a bar, we leave the national road. Arriving at the town exit, the street becomes a dirt track, which runs between eucalyptus and pine forests. This is one of the most beautiful sections of today’s stage.

The dirt track gradually transforms into a path of fine sand, in which our steps lightly sink. After a kilometre and a half of sandstone, we return to a small local road flanked, on both sides, by a forest. We’re still on the right side of the way.

About a kilometre and a half later, we get to the first houses in  Mala.  Here we also find a white church, but with corners and stone finishing.

Mala (Casal Comba)  (Km. 19,3)

Practical tips for this section:  In this section, you will find several points where you stop to take a break. In Lendiosa you will find a coffee bar and, after Vimieira, you’ll pass by a picnic area. Buen Camino!

Continue along the asphalt, towards  Lendiosa  (km. 20.9). The pilgrim path begins to descend slightly and then starts an ascent to the first houses of the neighbouring town of  Vimieira  (km. 22).

After the ascent to the first houses, we detour down a street, slightly to the right. We get to a stop and continue on the right, through an urban stretch without a hard shoulder, or pavement.

At the exit of the urban stretch, we enter a beautiful path of land that runs between olive trees and leads us to a picnic area, located next to the  national road EN-1.

We cross a roundabout and 250 metres later, we pass over a bridge that crosses the railway tracks. We continue along a long avenue that leads us to our destination today:  Mealhada.

Mealhada  (Km. 25). End of stage

Practical tips for this section:  The City of Mealhada does not have too many points of interest. If you want to visit Mato do Buçaco you have two options.

Arrive early in Mealhada and be in very good physical form to travel the kilometres that involve the visit to  Mato do Buçaco  or book a day for the visit. See you tomorrow!

Mealhada is made for rest. Its’ quiet life by the river and its famous Leitão Assado á Bairrada will allow you to recover from today’s stage.

Comments stage Coímbra – Mealhada

Below we detail what you should pay attention to during the day and we suggest some dishes to replace energy.

How to get to Coímbra

Coimbra can be reached both by train and by bus, from any point of the country. If you come from abroad, it is best to fly to Oporto or Lisbon, which are the nearest airports, and from there take a train or a bus.

Lisbon probably has more links than Oporto, however, it is easy, because the link with Coimbra enables you to spend the night in one of the two cities. From France and Spain, you can reach it by train.

However, if you do not want to worry about transfers or accommodation, you only have to contact us and we will take care of everything.

Precautions stage Coímbra – Mealhada

Today’s stage is signposted in various ways. Throughout the day, the pilgrim will find arrows, tiles and even adhesives. It is important to pay attention to the indications in this section, especially in the urban sections, since the diversity of signals makes it possible to go unnoticed.

Cyclists or persons with reduced mobility will find it difficult to overcome the one-and-a-half kilometre stretch that is located before the arrival to Mala. The sandstone path that precedes the urbanization can considerably slow down the progress on wheels.

Gastronomy stage Coímbra – Mealhada

Below we suggest some dishes that you can taste in Mealhada.

• Leitão assado á Bairrada: (Wood-fired Roasted Suckling Pig)
• Arroz á Antiga (Oven-cooked Rice and Meat)
• Periwinkles
• Cavacas (Portuguese pastries)
• Wine from the Bairrada region, which has a controlled Appellation of Origin.

Services stage Coímbra – Mealhada

Meet the main health care services, cafes, ATMs, restaurants and are in this stage of the Portuguese Way of St. James.

Map stage Coímbra – Mealhada

Consult the map with the route, points and towns along the stage.

Profile stage Coímbra – Mealhada

Consult the profile of the stage: altitude and degree of difficulty of each section.

What to do stage Coímbra – Mealhada

Today’s day goes through many localities, but they don’t have too much interest. Even today’s destination is not the most interesting at tourist-level. However, a few kilometres from the locality is  Mata do Buçaco,  an interesting place to visit if you want to do some sightseeing.

Mealhada is the capital of the Council of the same name, belonging to the district of  Aveiro.  The locality has 4,500 inhabitants.

The villa, located next to the  River Cértima,  is famous for its gastronomy and its tranquil lifestyle. It is often visited by tourists who want to explore Mata do Buçao, located about eight kilometres from the town.

Mata do Buçaco

Mata do Buçaco is an enchanted forest, declared a national park. The place is surrounded by large stone walls that awaken mystery and has inspired many writers in their works.

In the forest, you can visit several chapels in ruins, built by hermit monks, as well as ponds and a wide network of trails that run through areas full of exotic trees.

The place dates back to the 6th century when space was occupied by the Benedictine Order. At the beginning of the 17th century, the land passed into the hands of the  bishopric of Coimbra,  transferring the Barefoot Carmelites. It is this order that built the monastery, in 1628, giving it a period of splendour.

Of the monastery today only the church, the nave and the cloister are conserved. The monks in their efforts to obtain a place of recollection and prayer, also erected a stone wall of almost six kilometres in length, marking the space of the forest.

In 1622, the monks got a papal bull that forbade the entrance to the walled enclosure to women. This fact provoked a situation that when Queen Catherine, widow of Charles II of England, decided to visit Buçao, a new door was opened in the wall. This door is known as Portas da Rainha and constitutes the third entrance to the enclosure.

Between the years 1730 and 1750, the monks built eleven chapels in the forest. Of these, nine still exist. After the expulsion of the religious orders and the continuous confiscations, the space became part of the Portuguese monarchy, which then ordered the construction of a palace in the middle of the forest.

The palace is in a NeoManueline style and dates from 1907. After the  First World War , the palace was converted into a hotel, enjoying great fame at European level.

Its façade is made of stone, reminding us of the popular  Torre de Belém . Both the south and west façades are ornamented with scenes from Portuguese feats.

The interior is notable for its high ornamentation, among which paintings and pictures stand out, reproducing great Portuguese discoveries; and its composition of tiles. Its furniture, of Chinese origin, Indo-Portuguese and Portuguese, the pavement of foreign wood, the Royal Gallery and the ceiling, of  Moorish style , also stand out.

The gardens surrounding the palace are of great beauty. On one side is located a spectacular labyrinth designed with a large number of geometric shapes. After crossing the labyrinth, you reach the rear of the building, where a trail begins, flanked by various tree species.

In the highest part of the  Sierra del Buçao , at a height of 547 metres, the Alta Cruz is located. From there you have wonderful views of the city of the adjoining Sierras.

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How We Are Rated

My family of 4 travels the US in a small motorhome. Here are 11 things we get at Aldi for simple, affordable meals.

• My family travels the US full-time in a motorhome, so we have limited storage space and no oven.
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My wife and I are content creators who travel full time with our 9- and 12-year-old kids.

Although we love to travel the world, we get around in our 25-foot motorhome when we're stateside. This means grocery shopping can sometimes get tricky, as we have limited storage space and no oven.

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