2003 ford excursion 6.0 alternator

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Quick Ship SKU #: XDP-XD362 XDP XD362 Black HD High Output Alternator 03-07 Ford 6.0L Powerstroke

• 2003-2007 6.0L Ford Powerstroke
• Description

Upgrade the alternator in your 2003-2007 Ford 6.0L Powerstroke with this HD 230 amp alternator from XDP. Factory charging systems can be easily overwhelmed with aftermarket lights, stereos, horns, and ... read more

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Upgrade the alternator in your 2003-2007 Ford 6.0L Powerstroke with this HD 230 amp alternator from XDP. Factory charging systems can be easily overwhelmed with aftermarket lights, stereos, horns, and other electronic devices. The HD Alternator from XDP will provide a substantial gain in output amps that will be able to handle the abuse of aftermarket electronics. The black finish adds corrosion protection and enhanced looks. This alternator is pre tested and ready for installation using factory mounting location and existing connections.

Specifications

• Sku XDP-XD362
• Manufacturer XDP
• Direct Bolt On
• 230 Amp Output
• Black Finish
• Pre-Tested & ready For Installation
• In some applications the factory alternator wiring harness eyelet may need to be slightly enlarged to fit the larger stud. 

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New Alternator COMPATIBLE WITH FORD EXCURSION 6.0L 2003 2004 2005 03 04 05

• Ford E-350 Club Wagon 6.0L/363CI V8 2005 Ford E-350 Club Wagon 6.0L/363CI V8 Diesel 2004 - 2005 Ford E-350 Super Duty 6.0L/363CI V8 2005 - 2010 Ford E-350 Super Duty 6.0L/363CI V8 Diesel 2004 - 2005 Ford E-450 Super Duty 6.0L/363CI V8 2005 - 2010 Ford E-450 Super Duty 6.0L/363CI V8 Diesel 2004 - 2005 Ford Excursion 6.0L/363CI V8 2003 - 2004 Ford Excursion 6.0L/363CI V8 Diesel 2003 - 2005
• Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.0L/363CI V8 2003 - 2004 Ford F-250 Super Duty 6.0L/363CI V8 Diesel 2003 - 2006 Ford F-350 Super Duty 6.0L/363CI V8 2003 - 2004 Ford F-350 Super Duty 6.0L/363CI V8 Diesel 2003 - 2006 Ford F-450 Super Duty 6.0L/363CI V8 2003 - 2004 Ford F-450 Super Duty 6.0L/363CI V8 Diesel 2003 - 2006 Ford F-550 Super Duty 6.0L/363CI V8 2003 - 2004 Ford F-550 Super Duty 6.0L/363CI V8 Diesel 2003 - 2006
• Ford F650 6.0L/365CI V8 2004 - 2007 Ford F650 6.0L/365CI V8 Diesel 2004 - 2006 Ford F750 6.0L/365CI V8 2004 - 2007 Ford F750 6.0L/365CI V8 Diesel 2004 - 2006 Ford F750 7.2L/441CI L6 2004 - 2007
• 3C3T10300AA, 3C3T10300AC, 3C3T10300EA, 3C3Z10346AA, 4C3T10300AA, 5C3T10300DA, 5C3Z10346DA, GL551, GL557, GL569, GL630, GL648 Ford E-350 Club Wagon 6.0L/363CI V8 2005 Ford E-350 Club Wagon 6.0L/363CI V8 Diesel 2004 - 2005 Ford E-350 Super Duty 6.0L/363CI V8 2005 - 2010 Ford E-350 Super Duty 6.0L/363CI V8 Diesel 2004 - 2005 Ford E-450 Super Duty 6.0L/363CI V8 2005 - 2010 Ford E-450 Super Duty 6.0L/363CI V8 Diesel 2004 - 2005 Ford Excursion 6.0L/363CI V8 2003 - 2004 Ford Excursion 6.0L/363CI V8 Die

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Product Description

Description: Alternator OEM(s)replaced: Ford Family: Ford 6G Voltage: 12 Amps: 110 Condition: New Mtg Ear 1 Hole: 13.3mm Unthreaded Mtg Ear 2 Hole: 13.3mm Unthreaded Mtg Ear 3 Hole: 13.3mm Unthreaded Regulator Clock: 2:30 Fan Location: Internal Regulator Location: Internal B+ Terminal: M6-1.0 Polarity: Negative Warranty: 1 Year Weight: 14.1 lbs / 6.41 kg Pictures: Pictures are not always of the exact product. Sometimes an OEM picture may be used or a different color product (ie gray alternator, but black one in picture) but the purpose of the picture is to provide you with the style and specs of the product. If you aren’t sure if the pulley is included please confirm prior to purchasing. We sell pulleys as well so if the item doesn’t include pulley we likely would be able to supply pulley. If one of our products is OEM we state it as such in the part brand section of item specifics. We sell OEM and aftermarket products. If you aren’t sure please ask prior to purchasing. Shipping Times: Please note that shipping times are estimates. We ship from multiple locations and generally our product arrives faster than the estimated times but on occasion that won’t be the case. If the nearest location to you doesn’t have item on hand, we will ship from the nearest location that does have it. If you need it by a specific day please confirm prior to ordering or upgrade to the next day service. If you order on a Friday at 4 pm central time your product will not ship until Monday. We ship our Amazon orders up until 4 pm central standard time. Again, if you need faster please order accordingly. We do not ship product on weekends or holidays

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• 1999-2007 Ford Super Duties
• 6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain

2003 6.0L Alternator Question

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What should be the volts at idle with a load and with out a load. My truck is at 12.5V with a load and 13V with out a load. Is this normal??? The reason I am asking because I have some battery issues and wondering if the batteries are not getting charged enough while driving.  

no should be closer to 14v. if you had some bad batts, you need to charge them up real good the alternator cant fully charge them, so put it on a charger for a few hours and test it again.  

6.0 Charging issue Same issue! 2003 Ford Excursion 4x4 6.0 Diesel seemingly keeps eating voltage regulators/alternators. Two brand new batteries charge on the charger and hold a charge. (I do have a 350ma parasitic draw while the truck is "sleeping.") I even purchased a 200 amper from DB Electrical and installed an additional 0-gauge wire from the alternator to the battery. Checked the two alternator leads and soldered extra wire to relieve stress on the connector. No changes. At idle, the regulator side of the wire shows 11.6V. The batteries are barely charging at 11.88V. at 1K-RPM the battery voltage goes up to ~12.5. At 1.5K-RPM and above I get 13.89V maximum, sustained unless the RPM drops. This is repeatable.  

same issue i have an 04 excursion 6.0 and i have the same issue not much charging power. can i put a 6g large case in place of the small case?  

I have the same issue with my 03 Excursion. Just bought a rebuilt ford 110 amp alternator. Charge the battery up and every week or so I have dead batteries. I boosted it yesterday with my daughters ford Escape and it started fine. But before that I just let the Escape alternator charge it. The escape alternator was indicating 14.08 volts. but as soon as I started the Ex and removed the booster cables. Waited 5 minutes and it barely showed over 13 volts. How do you test for drain on the batteries when it's not running.  

13v at idle is not abnormal. Should be about 14 volts at 1800-2000 rpm's. Sounds like you may have bad batteries. Need to have them load tested by a shop. Get a clamp-on current meter and measure the current on the negative cable of the primary battery. The auxiliary battery should be disconnected for this test and the truck needs to be off for about 45 minutes. This gives time for all the systems to power down. Anything more than 50mA (0.050 amp) is excessive. Make sure the interior lights are off when measuring parasitic draw (including the under hood light -- pull the bulb(s) if you have to). They'll pull about an amp.  

We have 3 6.0s and none of them go above 13v. No matter what. All are running good. Mine was eating alts for a few months, I traced the problem to a weak groung from the right battery to the engine block.  

I have the dual alternators, and see around 14-14.2 volts at idle. My buddies 04 has a single alternator and was seeing around 12.2 to 12.4 volts at idle in the same conditions. We installed a DC Power Engineering 270 amp alternator on his and now it is 14.2-14.5 volts at idle with lights, fan, and everything else electrical running. When it is cold out and the glowplugs are on afterglow we have verified 14.5 volts, and 200 amps charging into the batteries. He has no charging issues anymore. I would recommend this upgrade to anyone that is having a charging issue (make sure your batteries, and grounds are good too) It is not a cheap option, but it will fix the issue. My factory duals are rated for 260 amps max, and I can get about 150 amps under the same conditions. Check them out.. https://www.dcpowerinc.com/ JR  

my stock small case will do 13.5 after the 2 minute threshold for the glow plug amp draw to shut down my large case DC Power 190 will do the same but runs cooler and has a higher potential if need be due to a large load this was an old thread lol  

Maybe this will be of help View attachment 9427  

That's a great help. Thanks!!!:thumbsup::thumbsup:  

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2003 F350 6.0L Alternator Problem

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I have a 2003 6.0L F350 with 208,500 miles on it. Around 170,000 miles the OEM alternator died and I replaced it with a Duralast 110 Amp model from Autozone. This was the one they pulled up for my truck. I use this truck for work and was stranded out of town at my hotel which is why Autozone ended up being the parts store I used (closest to me). Long story short replaced it, brand new batteries a week prior and all was well. Fast forward to January of this year and around 185,000 miles I decided to have my serpentine belt replaced as it was squealing and looking a bit worn. Almost immediately after replacement I started noticing that my engine seems to pulse and my lights (especially headlights) brighten and dim when driving. This is much more prevalent when I first start out in the morning. I taken readings on my batteries at start up and they start out just over 13.0 V and when started hesitate for about 30 seconds and then start to climb to around 14.5 V. I do see a fluctuation on the volt meter of around 14.3 V to 14.7 V when the engine pulses. My thoughts are that the alternator is to blame and the rectifier is the most likely suspect as the voltage is not constant. It's just weird that this happened right after I had my belt replaced. The garage I take it to says the batteries and charging system are fine, my volt meter tells me otherwise. Should I take this alternator back to autozone and replace it? It's under a lifetime warranty. Also is the 110 Amp undersized and should I just upgrade to a better one? At this point I'm not worried about taking the hit on the warranty from Autozone, just want my truck running right again. One last note is since I started having alternator issues I've noticed when I'm off road for work that my four wheel drive does not always engage automatically. I've had to get out and lock my hubs to make sure it was engaged.  

The alternator will not start charging until after the glow plugs shut off, this can be up to 2 min and is based on temperature. It is perfectly normal for the engine to run 3 min until you see battery voltage of 13.8 –14.2 volts. This sounds like the alternator you have is working fine , but a 110 amps may be a tad bit small. The problem with the 4WD is most likely a vacuum leak.  

I have the same problem but worse.. I just replaced my alternator on November 28th.. Today I barely made it back home, then the truck died in my driveway shortly after arriving. I only noticed sluggish starts this morning and then later on while driving the whole instrument cluster shut off.. Is this another bad alternator or is this a bigger problem, maybe something else frying the alternators.. I checked all the fuses, all with good results...please help  

2003 FOrd F350 6.0 checked voltage at alternator plug, found 12 volts on one side 1.7 on the other side , alternator not charging. Battery voltage 12 volts. What voltage should I read at the alt. Plug for the alternator to charge  

2003 F 350 6.0 ALternator not charging battery fully charged alternator plug 12 volts on one side 1.7 on the side. What voltage is needed on the plug for the alternator to charge?  

I am experiencing the same problem as the OP. Did you happen to ever find a solution? My headlights, dome lights, and even myback lights for my dash pulsate as u were talking about.  

I had a siilar problem and got this no problem since 250Amp High Output Alternator Ford E F Series E450 F450 Excursion 6 0L 2003 2007 | eBay  

John, have you checked hot idle amperage output on that alternator? I would love to have a DC Power alternator but they're a bit spendy.  

I would also check all of your grounds. The one on the drivers side frame rail near steering box is known for corroding. But l would clean all connections and put some red wheel brg grease at every connection. Then take a close look at your fusable link for corrosion and resistance. Test it by starting truck and running for at least 2 minutes with every accessary on. Test voltage on both sides of the link. If there is lower voltage on either side it's a problem. These trucks have a horribly underpowered alternator from Ford and the minimum sized alt really should be 140amp. I put a 190amp on my truck and it was the best money I have spent on it next to the ScanGaugeII. Check ALL CONNECTIONS  

mhatlen said: But l would clean all connections and put some red wheel brg grease at every connection. Click to expand...

Ok guys so I've been having some problems as well. I just changed my factory alternator today with a DC Power. I bought it a few months ago just never got around to installing it. Finally had a day off and some time so I decided to do it. Install was very simple, plug and play. However upon first start up, I noticed it was a little slower/slugish but she started. Battery light on cluster came on, but then went away once I started driving. However less than a minute later my cluster went dead, windows wouldn't roll up or down, stereo turned off, and power door locks didn't work. My autometer's still worked, over head info center (outside temp, mpg, etc) still worked, and AC. Truck was running fine, nothing performance wise seemed to be affected. Turned around went back home and popped the hood, nothing seemed out of place, checked fuses and everything was fine. Shut her down, and re-started her, everything was working just fine. Metered both batteries and the alt, all metered at 16.53 volts. Shut the hood got back in, and before I could put it in drive all the same accessories turned off. Here is what I'm running, SPX 320. I originally ordered a 300, but due to some complications with getting my order processed that I wont get into, they upgraded me to the 320 free of charge. I am running a total of 4 batteries, 2 up front, 2 in the rear. I have a pretty big stereo, hence the 2 additional batteries in the rear of the vehicle. They are all Optima's. I have two 0ga wires coming off the alt, one to the passenger side battery upfront, and one to the rear batteries, and both wires are fused. Any thoughts anyone?  

16.53 volts are you kidding? We probably even with four batteries etc.. should not be seeing more than 14.8 and I'm pretty sure that DC sets the alternator set point at 14.8; That said, I think you have an over voltage issue if what you put down was not a typo. These trucks are very sensitive to voltage and amperage....  

Ya I saw that number and was concerned. In my F150 couple years back the regulator on the alt went out and it was pumping out close to 22 volts and the dash cluster acted the same, whole system wigged out. So I'll check it again in the morning, if its still the same I'll have to give DC a call Monday. I wouldn't think anything I did would cause this? Like you said, DC probably set the alt somewhere around 14 volts. Of course nothing was wrong with the OEM alt, just knew it was working overtime and just a matter of time before is goes out so I finally install the new one to prevent any possible problems and then boom...problems :doh:  

Hopefully you get it figured out. If it were me, I would put the OEM back in if its still good and see what happens and that way (if everything is normal) When I call DC I can say I need to send this back or if the OEM does the same thing I would be a troubleshooting the issue.  

I'll give that a try, hopefully I don't need to send the DC one back. I was so excited to finally get it installed. Thanks for the help  

Seems like a voltage regulator problem. DC Power units should be set at 14.8v. I would not run my truck with an alt pushing out 16+v.  

That's only because it keeps oxygen away from the contact surfaces so there is no oxidation, oxidation is resistance. I use the same conductive grease on ALL my trucks connections that we use on our 5kv switchgear at work. Sent from AutoGuide.com App  

Grease is fine just put some on the post and crank it tight you will be good. If you want to buy specialty stuff that's fine too just a good practice. As far as the wild voltage I would for sure take a look at your fusable link.  

Do a continuity on the charge wire coming off of the alternator to the battery; sounds like the fusible link is toast. If you find that the wire is bad either replace it with a an OEM or do the wiring yourself but put a fuse in between the alternator and the battery.  

^^ what he said... OR I had the charge wire itself on the pass side corrode insode the insulation and wreak havok. I wound up stripping the wire back cutting out the corroded part and voila it works again  

Ok thanks I am going to try that, I also noticed that the battery light on the dash is not coming on could that be because of the fusible link as well?  

Usually you will only see the battery light come on and the truck is running, is when the regulator in the alternator is bad. Like I said before I suspect that the charge wire is bad simply because the fact that you hooked up a wire along side of it and everything worked normally.  

I had a similar issue with my 03 F250 6.0, I replaced the alternator and kept getting surging voltage ranging from low 13's to high 15v. Today my gauges began spiking and ABS light came on....symptoms of low voltage I'd experienced in the past with a failing battery. I popped the hood to check my battery connections as I knew my batteries were good...relatively new Red Top batteries. Connections were solid, so double checked my connection at the alternator as I may not have tightened it enough, which I did. Noticed my harness at the alternator had a split and showing wire coming out of the top of the harness. Wiggled it around til' I felt it was passing current better and so far has stopped acting up. So either there was some corrosion of the wire where it was split and wiggled some flow through it again, or the harness wasn't fully seated and the wiggles sent it home. I assume it is the wire at the harness....will solder it later or if that fails pull the harness of a spare motor and tranny I have sitting and swap harness'.  

When mine went out I purchased a 200amp QuickStart alternator from alernatorparts.com and have had no issues. They're much cheaper and I have had mine for over 2 years charging dual optima's.  

Sounds like a bad voltage regulator too me. As far as the whether or not the DC power trick would work I think it would depend on what voltage regulator you have; there are at least 6 different ones for 6G alternators and I do not know which one that DC uses. The .25-.75 VDC drop at the OBD port is normal; not sure why the PCM outputs the voltage like this. I have noticed that the higher my voltage +14 VDC the error is less sometimes as low as .1  

Confirmed, it was the regulator on the OEM.. DC 185 = Holding steady @ 13.8  

Yes the Alt wont start charging until 120 seconds at over 50 F ambient or glow plugs turn of 40F< Ambient temp/ oil temp is over 70 if started below 50 ambient  

Actually the alternator will charge as soon as its spinning. Problem is the glow plugs pull it down so hard its not until the glows start to cycle off until you see the voltage start to climb back up. I now have a 270 amp alt and I see 12+ volts as soon as I start it and 14.7 after 60 seconds or so. I saw 10.8 or so with oem alt after start up, the stock alts are horrible. My starter now really rips when I start the truck since the 270 amp alt was installed. BIG DIFFERENCE  

Yeah not sure WTF they were thinking with the alternators on these trucks. Stock alt on my little TDI is rated 10A higher than the 'Super Duty'  

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